How To Flush and Bleed Your Motorcycle Brakes | The Shop Manual
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- čas přidán 6. 11. 2020
- How To Flush and Bleed Your Motorcycle Brakes | The Shop Manual
Read more about brake servicing on Common Tread: rvz.la/3l6hdX0
If you've got spongy brakes, odds are that lever can be firmed up by bleeding the brake system. Plus, replacing your brake fluid is regular maintenance that oughta be done every two years. So in this episode of The Shop Manual, we’ll show you how to do it. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Read more about brake servicing on Common Tread: rvz.la/38goTSL
Excellent video and tips. Thanks a lot.
DOT 5.1 is better. Doesn't damage the paint and compatible with DOT 4. Also, people should use CNC adjustable levers for the clutch and brake. Brembo RCS19 brake lever is the best upgrade over stock.
@A A go back to your garage and Google answers about what's best lol
Dude I love your channel thank you so much
Hi guys nice video as always. Question does this method works also for Harleys? I have a 2017 xl883n iron sportster. Thank you
Wow, you actually made me feel capable of doing this...
That's the goal!
Yeah same. Now my rear breaks got no pressure, prolly full of air and no one sells that hose near me.
So that's cool. Been working on fixing my rear master pressure for 2 hours now.
@@DizzySpark my rear brake caliper only engages and is stuck
@@xXxVentrilloxXx aye same here my rear brake setup is currently stuck before watching but I think it’s cause I used dot3 not 4 idk tho
Super easy stuff but great video
Just an extra tip, when you’ve reached the step to refill your reservoir after bleeding the calipers, take a quick look at your brakepads. If they are worn, but not completely worn out, don’t fill your reservoir all the way. When you replace the pads, the pistons in the calipers will push back the brake fluid into the reservoir. The fluid needs somewhere to go.
Thanks for the reminder man. The first time I flushed I over filled and when I pushed the pistons back in I had a nasty overflow.
Did pads too. Forgot to include.
Extra tip number 2) You can instead when compressing the piston crack the bleeder and the extra fluid will go that way. Start with a little pressure on the piston, open the bleeder and close it again when piston is fully compressed. No air and no fuss.
@@rickhughes8998 should I fill it up to max when I have pistons pushed all the way back? Or when I have piston pushed all the way back with new pads?
@@Fordahord1 yes
Great guide. 2 important things to add:
1. Always use fresh bottle of brake fluid. You can't store it after you have opened it.
2. Use gloves AND eye protection. When you remove the hose there is a risk to get some splashes on you. Without eye protection this might not end well. Ask me how I know.
How you know
How you know?
How do you know?
How did you know?
How do you know?
Good and entertaining video Ari!
Little tip from me to owners of japanese ABS bikes:
I had a SV 650 with ABS 2007, done the brake maintainance accordingly , even more often than recommented. 2 years after I've got the bike experienced ABS motor failure. I've got it exchanged etc. however I was dedicated on finding out what caused the failure. Turned out ... :
When you flush you brake system the old brake fluid still remains in the ABS pump unless isn't activated, which isn't that common if you don't ride gravel or dusty roads. What happens is, what Ari explains that brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that after 10 years in you abs pump the fluid looks like glaze from a burned pan, respectively corosion is being caused inside and soon or later causes issues on the sensitive components.
When you flush your brake lines, go for a little ride, activate both abs circles ( front and rear) thus ensures that brake fluid from the abs unit has been transferred over the brake lines, which are flushed afterwards. Repeat the flushing procedure several times to make sure all the old fluid have circulated OR buy a BMW ! :D
Look at any service manual for abs models and you will see that they want you to hook it up to a diagnostic tool.
Those tools can activate the ABS pump for brake fluid service and thus flush the ABS circle.
It is hard to get your hands on such tools as a non brand specific mechanic, let alone as a private person.
That’s why, if people want to get a brake flush done by a trained mechanic, they should go directly to the Manufacturer.
As dumb as that sounds, but if you don’t have the tools for the job then you simply don’t have the Tools.
(Or you can off course do it the way you said by activating the ABS, but that certainly can involve some risks one needs to take for a result)
@@A_Ride_To Not all manufacturers require or even suggest cycling the ABS pump during brake service. Prior to this vid I reached out to contacts at BMW, Honda, Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Ducati, and only H-D required brake service be performed at a shop where the tech could manipulate the ABS via a diagnostic tool.
That's a good tip GSab. It's also good practice to engage the ABS so you know what it feels like in an actual emergency. BTW, did you disassemble the old ABS module?
I have an older bmw and its ABSII is no picnic
@@AriH211 ok my bad, I really thought every manufacturer requires ABS service via an OBD type of Tool.
At the same time really is a shame when they said that, because that means they don’t consider old brake fluid behind the ABS Pump a big deal
(and might not even service it that way).
I must say, I am a bit speechless.
I have bled many brake systems on bikes and this introduction to bleeding brakes is one of the best I have seen . Thanks for putting this up,there will be many watching this who have more confidence in doing the job for the first time . Well done .
One thing I learned is the dot next to the screw to identify the style of fastener, thanks. I always take a black plastic trash bag and cover up the tank along with paper towels, cheep insurance. I'm glad RevZilla picked up this guy, great addition to the team.
Agree, I use saran wrap on any surface that the fluid might splash on.
love the addition of ari and zack to the channel!
Zach and Ari are filming together again? Awesome!
me too!
Thanks for the tips. Now I'm waiting for "how to bleed a hydraulic clutch".
Pretty much the same procedure as the brakes.
I personally like to take the clutch cylinder off, to give it a good clean, since sometimes they get gunk in them.
@@damianrc5322 Really depends on the style but if is absolutely a requirement on older Kawaski's because you need to inspect the (pretty guaranteed to be leaking) pushrod for oil contamination which leads to a slightly more involved service.
On BIG hint if you do take it off, jamb a block of wood between the lever and the bar and ziptie it in place. You can ancidentally grab that lever at any point and in some slave cylinders than means the piston will pop right out. 90% of this time it means a (usually very cheap) rebuild kit will be needed.
Yes I need that
Look up ktm clutch back bleeding
Only homosexuals watch that
This is a great video explaining how to bleed your motorcycle brakes. If you have an air compressor you might want to consider investing in a mityvac pneumatic operated fluid evacuator. The motorcycle shop I worked at had one and it worked so good I had to buy one myself. They will run you $100 but they are well worth it. When connected to compressed air they build a vacuum. You can use it to clean the reservoir and put fresh fluid in it to avoid sending any more old brake fluid through the brake system. They are also great for when the brake system has lots of air, like when you have changed out brake lines or calipers. It is one of the best tools I own for motorcycle work. They come with a nipple attachment that holds onto the bleeder for you, so once its connected to the bleeder you just loosen the bleeder and keep adding brake fluid at the reservoir until it has been fully bled.
I like the tip on only punching holes in the foil. I can use that on alot of stuff. Thanks.
Executive producer: ChrisFix
Already TONS of videos on CZcams, this isn't something that hasn't been covered. So i don't understand the "finally", you just didn't look.
@@adrianmack3 dude i think you replied to the wrong comment.
@@revhappymv na na na, just let the negativity melt away here. Prevent the spread like COVID....oh wait.
@@levis3603 lol. There literally is a comment saying "finally" something right on top of your comment. I'm sure he was aiming to reply to that one. Just guiding him on the right path. The hate must go on, this is the internet after all 😋
Hey guys!
Definitely helpful to see from a first person point I’ve view
Right on, good feedback.
Another quick tip: add some water to the receptacle to help keep it stationary on the shop floor or lift.
You could also add some clean left over brake fluid so if it sucks anything up during the initial opening of the bleeder it wont' suck in air.
@@Doctoberfest not needed if you are applying pressure to the lever as you open the bleed nipple
@@patthewoodboy I'm not sure how apply pressure to the bleeder prevents the possibility of sucking in extra air?
@@patthewoodboy damn you are very salty bro everything okay with you? You got real hostile from a simple reply meaning for you to expand on your original comment
@@patthewoodboy oooohhhh brake "lever" that makes sense now. Instead of looking to pick a fight with someone in the youtube comments have you ever thought of meditation or something?
Like the tip on punching holes in the new brake fluid container, but Instead of cutting an X on the side of the milk bottle, what about cutting it into the lid? That way you can use another lid and it's totally sealed when done, no tape required.
For anyone concerned about a few errant bubbles in their brake fluid... even after a flush...
Refill the reservoir and seal everything as indicated in the vid'... AND just as a good practice, pump the brakes one last time and put a ZIP-TIE around the lever to hold it down... and give it at least an hour or two... You CAN leave the thing over-night, but I can also understand some hesitancy about that prospect...
This helps with wrenching at any point on the brakes, too... like replacing a broken lever/master cylinder (like after a drop)... Obviously it does NOT replace the procedure of properly bleeding the brakes and flushing out fluid as prescribed... BUT if you accidentally let go of the lever, or slip up, and you simply can't carry on for a whole repetition of the thing... this helps mightily and may well save you from the excess frustration...
I generally finish a flush/bleed procedure with a short ride, and then check the reservoir again JUST to be sure I was actually paying attention to every little thing and didn't so something dumb... inviting a leak or whatever... It happens to the best of us... BUT about a 5 mile jaunt will tell you how your brakes are operating and with some repetitive braking practice, you can put a little extra work/stress on the system... THEN when you park back at the garage, you can check the fluid. If nothing seems to be missing and you don't find any errant drips on wheels or fenders... the system is likely properly secure...
That's when I go ahead with the pump up and ziptie trick, just to leave it over night and the brakes are (usually) as solid as they'll ever get in the morning... ;o)
Put a ziptie from the lever to the grip overnight as tight as you can make it. Remove it the next day and thank me. This works for rear brakes and hydraulic clutches as well.
I don’t understand. Why should I do this?
@@ardencassie5150I’ve heard that it helps bleed air bubbles. The increased pressure “pushes” the air through the lines easier than when there is no pressure, so it slowly pushes the air up into the reservoir. Don’t think you should use it as a complete alternative to manually bleeding, but can do it after the main bleeding to make sure there’s no little bubbles left along the lines.
I've known this procedure for a life time,(I'm 63). Used it on cars also. Only thing different is that we put the end of the hose into a jar with a little fluid in it already. That way we didn't have to keep opening and closing the bleeder because each pump stroke would only draw fluid back and not air. We just kept pumping until no more air bubbles in the line. BTW. Harley just did an unauthorised fluid change on my bike. Cost me $160 !!!! Thanks for your excellent video.
You just made my day, your video is so detail oriented that I was able to flush the brake system myself. Great video!!
if you pull air in from the reservoir you can close the bleeder screw on the caliper and stick a flat head screwdriver in between the rotor and pad (gently) and pry open the pads which will send fluid back up towards the reservoir pushing all the air out of that end. Then fill the reservoir and continue as normal.
A tip from a grumpy old mechanic. Don't pump the brake handle. This can cause any air bubbles in the system to brak into tiny bubbles, think foam. This can lead to your brakes feeling nice and firm until those teeny tiny bubbles get back together into one big bubble. Then you have soft brakes again. Instead of pumping, simply squeeze the break lever, open your bleeder to let fluid and air out, close your bleeder, and repeat. Once no more air is coming out, then you can pump the lever to get a final pressurization in the system. No pumping = no foaming, and this means not risking having to do it again.
man this was exactly what i needed. def not paying a shop to do this easy work.
POV is absolutely the move. This makes it so much easier to understand and follow. Great video! Going to do mine tomorrow
one thing he didnt mention, if you have a bleeder on your master cylinder start with that. i couldnt figure out what i did wrong since i followed the directions but still had a spongy lever that pulled allt the way into the bar until i noticed i had a bleeder valve at my master cylinder. run 2 full reservoirs of fluid through it, now it will be completely clean for when you do the lines. do the lines as normal then finish off again with bleeding the master cylinder before topping off. my lever now only has a perfect 1/2inch of play, are now STIFF with no sponginess and finally dont pull in all the way to the bars!
I couldn't be over the moon anymore due to the fact that I have the exact same bike! Thanks Ari, don't swap it anytime soon :D
This Versys actually belongs to Spenser, our director and editor, but I've got a 2014 Versys 650 LT (white) as well! Great bike.
@@AriH211 Very cool to hear! It's my 2nd bike - a used 2016 650, and it's brilliant so far. I learned so much riding it. Thank you and Spenser for a great video!
I've nearly stripped the master cylinder screws on my CBR300R before I finally picked up a legit set of JIS screwdrivers on Amazon (and new screws from the dealer)
A perfect tutorial, just after I've already learned how to do it.
Figures LOL
It ALWAYS happens!!
started using a capri tools vacuum brake bleeder this year, cost like $85 bucks but is the most convenient thing ever when doing brakes. if you have one bike and do brakes every 2 years like in the manual this method is great, but if you have a few bikes and do brakes often you gotta get a vacuum bleeder. great video!
Fill syringes are a godsend - removing old fluids/adding fresh, extracting accidental oil overfill, precise application of grease/sealant, or a makeshift float level sight glass. I usually keep a few handy now.
Nice straightforward procedure, sprinkled with a few tips of the trade that really make the difference in your daily wrenching. The aluminum seal trick did it for me.
The only thing I’d add that we do in the shop is after you’ve bled the front a lot of the bikes will get air trapped in the horizontal parts of the master cylinder so it helps to remove the cover and tap on the side of it a bit and gently make little pulls on the lever until you stop seeing bubbles coming up out of the master cylinder into the reservoir.
Channel has saved my life in many ways, but I think my wallet is thanking you more!
I bought a five year old KLR650 with 1000 miles and now I'm realizing that there are a ton of PM items that I need to do simply because of the age of the bike. Thanks for this video and all of the other videos that show how easy most of those tasks can be.
I’m a big fan of using pneumatic air break fluid bleeder. It eliminates having to pump out the brake fluid using the brake lever also keeps thing clean. Just suck it out and keep filling the reservoir until you see clear fluid come out. Very easy and quick. And mine cost me 40$ so cheap to.
Love the first person POV! Super helpful, feels almost hands on.
The best 'how to bleed your brakes' video I have seen. Great job, thanks.
Looks simple enough. I was about to buy some needle pump that someone else ended up not using correctly so now at least I know I dont have to worry about doing it the simple way.
Speed bleeders make this soooooo much easier and very cheap @ Revzilla
thanks will be doing this on my sv650, was hesitant but this gave me the confidence i needed lol
by far the best DIY video i've ever seen on youtube thus far. thank you
Excellent bro. I watched like six or seven videos before I found yours and I finally felt confident about being able to do this. I’ve done it now I’ll comment back to let you know if it worked. Lol
oh man, i gotta get a little hose! my VTX1800 is a bit more involved due to all the piping and all the fluid the linked brakes use, but as always, thank you Ari!
I actually did this on my dad's Honda which had really spongy brakes and I pulled it off without any problems. Thanks for the assist man.
Very good tips. I especially the JIS mentioned. As kid I always F'd my moped carburator screw heads. It remained mystery for a very long time. Just few years ago one machine mechanic mentioned me the difference as he was teching me to work with one japanese machine. Indeed there is very slight difference in the profile which makes a huge difference. I immediately ordered myself a kit of JIS screw drivers. They're essential on even a bit older japanese bikes. But on that regard, someone told me that many latest japanese bikes don't have them anymore. I can't confirm this is as I ride older bikes, but just keep out eye for that dot. It's simple as that.
For those who have completely empty new or old brake line. Wrap the line with rag or tower somewhere near the leaver so you don't damage it and pinch it with pliers. You making a one way valve by putting some resistance for fluid to fill the line. If u don't do this u wont manage to fill the line. U should mention this in the video too.
Ari please show us how to setup a simple motorcycle garage.a tour of yours wil be supercool. always love your work.
That's a common request, so I'll add it to the list.
Thankyou so much for getting back.🤘🤘
About ABS bikes. It's good idea to activate ABS pump after fluid change and flush it again. Just hard press rear brake while riding and it'll activate. I learned this hard way, because ABS pumps on Yamaha's CP2 engines (i.e. mt07) are not very reliable (with old fluid they get faulty and makes high pitch noise when activated), so better keep a eye on fluid change intervals.
You the first one that make I understand the process
These videos are amazing. I would've liked a little better lighting for this one though!
Ari, I am impressed with the detail that your videos enlighten us with. Example- The JIS screwdriver. I didn't even know about them and I worked with Japanese co-workers @ Canon USA for 20 years! Also you mentioned the various metals in the fluid box, possible causing corrosion to watch out for.
Excellent Shop Manual video!
Very helpful walk through for a first time Brake Line Bleeder...:)
Thanks for the easy instructions, mate. Much appreciated.
Hi - Thanks a million - youve made the job one heck of lot easier & for the "Biggest" tip (for me) which was that the screws on the master are JIS (i would have just got the phillips out & torn them apart) & the next important was to draw out the fluid using a syringe -Thankyou
I did this many times on my bikes and could still learn some small tricks. But isn't it also recommended to clean and check the rubber membrane on top of the reservoir? It always collects water drops over the time.
Just got my first bike (new to me)! This video helped a lot! Thanks.
Thanks for posting, I'll be using this tutorial to service the brakes AND Hydraulic Clutch on my 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner S...
(Before watching the video)
The presentation before you click is brilliant 😂😂❤️
Just made my day guys ❤
Just wanted to say that Ari is the reason I just spent my first $110.10 on RevZilla! This dude is amazing. Huge respect! (Yeah Zack is cool too...)
You helped this girl out. I know a lot of my bike already but I never learned to do this. It might not be expensive but I love her all and I wanted to do it myself. For sure you got my subscription
One tip, one suggestion
Suggestion, buy a pair of large syringes from a vet for like $10. You can use them a ton in bikes, but suck the fluid from the master. Then use the syringe on the bleeder, push the fluid UP to the master. Never have a bubble doing it this way
That JIS brand that was shown is Vessel. They also make other awesome screwdrivers, a $12 ball handle with bits, including JIS, and the Impacta! A JIS screwdriver and impact driver in one. Also pretty inexpensive, but it’ll pop off any stuck JIS fastener.
+1 back bleeding with a syringe was the only way I could bleed my brakes after rebuilding my caliper. I tried the traditional way but the fluid was just going past the air trapped in the caliper no matter how many times I repeated the process. Then I found out about the syringe method and it worked first try, quick and easy
I just did my first brake flush on my Fz6. Was much easier than I thought! This video saved me some sweet cash!
Hey, I bled my brakes for the first time the very next day after watching this video . What a difference!
Great video, love the perspective, hot tips and how you make your bloopers part of the video. Keep it up :)
Thanks Arie. I have watching your video's since you were M C Garage.
Great video tutorial. I followed the tips and bled my brakes in under 30 minutes.
Amazing work as usual, Ari. Really appreciate the low tech approach, I'll do my next brake fluid change.
That was one of the best tutorials on how to bleed motorcycle brakes. Clear, concise and brilliant tips. It was that good it has given me the confidence to have a go myself. Thank you.
Thanks Ari, really great tips and even better production quality.
Such a sick tutorial, thanks!
Best motorcycle channel on CZcams! Thanks for all the helpful info!
That was an amazing set of instructions on how to bleed the brakes.
Thank you so much for making it so simple and the tips are amazing.
Great video. I've been following you and Zack since before Motortrend. Love the content. Keep it up!
Start with the furthest caliper. That's a pro tip and few do that.
I would add one more tip, though. After job done and before covering with the rubber cap, use paper towel to dry the interior of the bleeder. That way will minimize the higroscopic effect at the closest entry point to the fluid.
Overkill, maybe? Rust also is ;)
Keep up the good work.
Outstanding - really well thought through tutorial with all the important steps and tips given due prominence. Excellent. As good a tutorial as your vids with Zach were entertaining.
Thanks for the knowledge and tips! The first-person point of view was really nice!
Great video, Ari. Thank you. Some really great simple tips that I never would have thought of.
Ari, yet another 🔝 quality production, while being super relevant and helpful! Best channel for motorcyclist 🎥🎬🛠👍🏻
Thanks for making this video, Ari and the Revzilla team! I got the items I need to actually not be afraid of doing this and spending more money to have someone else do it! It's very much appreciated!
Great video Ari. Lots of great tips, especially the JIS screwdriver info.
Very nicely taught . It was very clear to understand. Thanks a ton 🙏🏻
Hi Ari Hinning I love your work man... Your videos are awesome and precise..
I rarely comment but I used your vid to bleed my front and read brakes on my 2099 Kawasaki ninja zx-6r for the first time and your video was fantastic advice. My master cylinder caps screw on so I'd mention to your viewers not to fill it too much because obviously fluid may spill out when you screw it on. I had rags around it so no big deal though. Thanks again!
Ari's the best! Always so many useful tips that make you go "ah ha! makes so much sense!"
Ari, I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us. The view from the camera you implanted in your skull is amazing lol. I have referred to your videos for several projects over the last few years. Thank you very much
Seeing him after long time ... watched him a lot in M.C garage episodes before.
Very complete, very clear and detailed with simple tools. THANK YOU.
I use a soda bottle to catch the used fluid. I drilled a hole in the cap and put the tube in it; the hole should be small enough that the tube is snug. This is the equipment that I always have on hand. Then I get a new (empty) bottle and put my cap/tube on it. Once done, I put the new cap (without a hole) back on the bottle and it's ready to be disposed of. With the line snug in the drilled-out cap, the bottle can even fall over and nothing will leak. Cutting an "X" like you do allows for possible leakage.
Very helpful tutorial, great video, Thanks a Lot!!!!
Great Tutorial Ari thanks. Really appreciate the x in the gallon Jug tip. 👍
Thank you! Followed your instructions and it was super easy.
Amazing How To video! And the different POV was even better!! Well done guys!! 👍👍
Excellent walk through. Good tip about the hose.
Awesome video. Great view of the work. Easy to follow.
really well explained,clear and simple,with what we have to see clear on camera right on the spot! good job!
Ace video straight forward and well demonstrated by Ari. Good work rev zilla this content of fun pizza then reviews then maintenance is top notch
Super excited to start doing more maintenance on my cruiser this season. Thanks for the tips!
Glad to see ari still making these kind of videos!
Simple with attention to detail! what more can you ask for!! Cheers mate!
Haha I was just at the motorcycle store yesterday picking up fluids - oil, coolant, muckoff, etc - and was looking at the brake fluid thinking ‘I should really learn how to do that’, so great timing!
I was put off by an overly complicated and messy process on my pushy a year or two ago, but this looks way more manageable than I thought ... if only I hadn’t just had my recycling collected lol
I did my own bleeding after watching this! Thanks! - JP from Korea.