How to Bleed & Flush Harley-Davidson Brake System Fluid-ABS & Non-ABS Systems
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- čas přidán 29. 11. 2018
- We tell you about the Harley-Davidson brake fluid recall and their recommendation to replace/flush your brake fluid every two years regardless of mileage. Understand, that bleeding your Harley brakes and flushing the system is basically the same process. When just bleeding your brakes to get rid of air, you just add fluid to the master cylinder until you get the air out. You are mixing the new fluid with the old. When you are actually flushing and replacing your brake fluid, you suck the master cylinder dry and then put new fluid in and bleed the brake system until all the old fluid is evacuated, thus having all new fluid in the brake system.
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This brake fluid issue is not specific to Harley as all motorcycles use much of the same brake fluid. Harley was just getting ahead of the game and recommending changing it out every two years to avoid any problems. You should do this on your motorcycle regardless of what make.
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Is it the same for an ABS equipped bike ?I have an 18 FLFB
hi I just bleed out my front brake with the classic method pumping the brake and open the valve below, than close the valve and release the brake. one problem. after I replace the oil the front brake it's loose, it doesn't brake anymore. why might be the cause??? help asap
@@iLVCA was going to ask a question myself but like many channels they don't reply back to those in need. I have no front breaks now and no help. I will never buy another Harley got 2 and can't ride either. Harley mechanics are highly needed cause they always say it will take a month, even for just a simple break job oil change and tires. Ridiculous.
@@flatout5815I 8:27 8:34 8:35
Thank you for all your videos. They are of great value to all of us that maintain our own bikes because WE care more about our bikes that the person that just works on them but doesn't ride them. I've had Harleys since I was 19 years old and I'm 72 now. I've always worked on my own bikes. I watched your video on bleeding brakes and, as usual, your covered everything necessary to do a great job...but there's one more thing you might try... and pass along if you find, as I did, that the brakes, both front and rear, can be made just a bit better. When you have completed your procedure and are ready to call it a night, wrap your brake handle around the grip, about four turns with a bungie cord and leave it overnight. Wrap the foot brake around the crash bar, again about four turns. When you get up the next morning and release the bungie, you will discover that you have almost twice the brake as you had the night before. Reason: After bleeding or flushing your brakes, there are "nanobubbles" in the line. Pressureizing the line overnight will cause the nanobubbles to rise through the line and escape at the resevoir. Sounds a bit odd but racers have known this technique for years. Be well and be safe out there. Love your content.
One minute in to this video I knew I'd come to the right place. This channel is an excellent example of what makes CZcams great.
Thank you so much for you kind words!
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All this positivity is making me feel warm and fuzzy. That could also be the Jameson. Great videos either way. Keep it up.
A tip for the front brakes:
After finishing up, take a rag, string, or rubber band and loop it around the front brake lever and handle bar and gently apply the brakes (not too much) and secure overnight to allow any micro bubbles to rise up into the reservoir.
that’s also a helpful technique when bleeding the brakes by yourself….
Do you Crack the bleeder again after with that lever pressure?
@@eschrader no that's to let any leftover bubbles in your master
Just bought my FIRST HD. 2009 flhtcu and loving it !! Just reinforcing what YOU already know. You are putting out the most complete DIY projects out. Thank you !!!!
I notice a few comments here regarding the ABS system,you don't need to go to the dealer to flush ABS provided you don't introduce any air into the system if you do then off to the dealer you go,the only thing I do is go for a ride and utilise the ABS system after the first flush and then do a repeat flush,this is done to move the old fluid out of the ABS unit,information came from my local dealer.
He introduced air into the system when he sucked the fluid out of the master cylinder!
No he didn't. He filled it before he flushed. So long as the little hole at the bottom has fluid in, it is fine.
Because of this video, I picked up an off brand air compressor vacuum system and flushed my front and rear brakes on my new to me 05 Electra Glide Classic. The old fluid was a dark cloudy brown, The front brake level was less than half in the master cylinder. I bought small bottles and threw away what was left over. Thank you very much!
Thank you for teaching me everything I needed to know about my brake system. You possibly saved my life.
Ryan, this is an excellent video you did everything 100% right and a I hope this helps other bikers. I was with a group in Virginia mountains and my buddy lost his rear brake going up the mountain and it was because of never checking brake fluid.
Best "how to" video ever. I like how detailed you are. After watching this video I'm more confident that I can change my own brake fluid instead of taking it to a shop. Thank you for the savings.
Awesome! Love to hear things like this Robert!! That's our mission. Helping as many bikers as we can worldwide.
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Many thanks for all the videos that you publish. I'm addicted. Purchased the brake fluid tester through your link (as well as the Mitey-Vac). When I tested my fluid, the meter went immediately to RED. Probably original fluid - 2013 Street Glide - just never had any issues so never thought I needed to flush. Will be flushed DIY as soon as possible. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for sharing this procedure. Very helpful. I’m very confident in doing this myself from watching your video. Thanks again. David
Thank you for the videos for us guys who cant afford a shop visit.
Any time!
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Simply the BEST Harley site on CZcams. Your videos are killer! We learn so much from your channel. Thanks from Canada.
Thank you so much! We appreciate it.
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Thank you so much for making this video. I live in Bahrain and a bunch of us Harley riders (all women) are attending a workshop on basic maintenance and service for our Harleys and your video is awesome! I shared it with the group.
Sajida what type of workshops and where? I’m interested in this!
Thanks. You are teaching me how to be independent and rely on my capabilities to mantain the bike 👍🏼
Very cool. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Learned something new and flushed my lines and changed break pads today. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
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GREAT VIDEO!
will be turning in quite often, thanks for showing us all how to properly execute a brake bleed and/or change
You are welcome Richard. Glad to help!
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Super glad the videos are helpful. We love hearing that!!
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@@RyanUrlacher very good.
Thanks for the all the hard work You are very good with all of your products.
Thanks Bill P
Great videos man You saved me mega$$ with your videos I’m from Canada so it’s a bit pricy here at the dealers your content is awesome it’s clear and easy to follow keep up the great work 🇨🇦
Thanks for the video. I've done it the past before but this was a good refresher. Funny thing is in the last 6 years I haven't kept a bike long enough to do the 2 year flush but my bike now needs it. Deuces ✌
Glad it was helpful!
Great video... just finished replacing the brake pads on my Road King.. I was surprised to find that there was still a lot of life left on the pads. Been riding awhile and didn’t realize I needed to flush out the old fluid every two years. Last time I replaced the pads and bled the brakes was a few years ago which explains why they felt so spongey... Kinda kicking myself in the ass now realizing that all I really needed to do was flush the old fluid... oh well, at least I know I won’t be needing new brake pads on the front for awhile! 😛 So I went ahead and used the manual style mighty vac and followed the instructions in your handy video. Brakes work great... no more sponginess. Wondering if I still need to build up the pressure in the lines using the lever and crack the bleeder the old school way afterwards for good measure? 👍
Great video and information!! I don't know if some bikes are made in different places but with my bike, a 3/8 wrench fits way better than the 10mm. Just putting my experience out there.
Your the man! Saving me tons of money and teaching me at the same time! Thank you sir!
Great to hear!
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Purchased items via the links! Thanks so much for producing these videos!
you betch. thx for your support!
Yup, you are still the best source on information.
Great and informative video. One thing I didn't hear mentioned is: Inspect the caps of the both brake and clutch resivours for any signs of corrosion or blistering paint. This is a tell tail sign that the seal is bad. The seal replaced with a new cap from HD. Any signs of leaking from the caps is not good!
Thanks! We appreciate the added info.
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AWESOME SAUCE man, Easiest way I've ever seen.. much better than gravity and pumping..
Great video Ryan and Oscar, Thank you for the information.Picked up 2 items from your link
Thanks for the video! I need a friend to help do mine, but I'll getur' done.
This guy has taught me alot over the years
Thanks for the support. Just completed brake flush using your tutoria l.
Glad it helped.
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Just watched this vid. Thank you for the clarity. Excellent tips.
Great DYI video, much appreciated.
Great video man, keep em coming!
Thank you Larry. Will do
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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thanks for the helpfull channel i have been watching your channel for few years now i feel like i know you in a way....God bless and thank you again
I appreciate that!
Great tool , purchased one and it saved my ass!!!!
My Harley rear brake locks up after short ride. There must be tests to isolate brake cylinder, line or caliper. Lots of opinions, no answers. Even J&P Cycles is guessing. You could really make my day!!
Thanks for this video.
This is going to come in handy on my 2014 Street Glide.
I might even replace that front diaphragm while I'm at it since the guys at HD says that master cylinder is leaking.
be very careful and dont allow air into the system or you will have to have the abs brakes fixed at the dealership.. not costly but if air gets into the abs system the only what to get it out is by the dealer
@@tylerfj24 Thanks but I don't believe my standard 2014 has ABS.
Great information. I was worried due to the ABS system... no sweat.
Much thanks
Nice...both my bikes are overdue for a flush. I already picked up the Mity-Vac hand pump kit at Harbor Freight. Will have to wait until the spring now.
Roger that
Thanks Ryan, good vid as usual. 👍👍👍
Thanks Kenneth!
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Good well run through video mate. Checked mine earlier and its brown, and max lights. Cheers.
Great video - Mighty vac is a great tool. I had one already and used it on the bike recently. I noticed an definitifve improvement in the feel of both brakes. MC was only 18 months old but brakes felt way better.
I'd add that doing that darned hydralic clutch got it to perform better as well. I'd like to see a video for it as well. I could not get the clutch cover off without pulling the exhaust and would like to know if there is a "trick".
Excellent video...bought the tools...thx and safe riding
Well..its only me. best friend passed away and he usually was the guiding force for me on my Harley. Learned a lot from him. Now I have to figure out how to do this again without damaging paint and/or finish. Don't have a compressor-just a hand powered unit purchased from Advanced Auto.
Very good info..... any way to cycle the anti lock solenoids for us home guys.....
Thanks for the vid. Bought the tools and sure enough my fluid was off the scale for water. Did the flush and good to go. Not easy by yourself but take time and be careful.
Great!! Glad the video was helpful.
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Very informative, greetings from Wales. 🏴🤘
Great video Ryan and Oscar! Thanks much!!
Just drove 20 miles to the local store to get brake fluid in 20 miles back home. Didn't know I needed to buy a pump in a vacuum. Wish I could watch the whole damn video first
Thank you. Great video.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, greatly appreciated!
Great info. Thank you.
Thank you sir I appreciate the knowledge. You the man. Let's keep it on 2
Ryan great video on flush and bleed brakes. The reservoir caps ONLY can be wash out with plain water and then dried. Plain water will clean off brake fluid. Even after you put the caps back on a with a wet rag wipe around the cap. If you are with other bikers at a show look at some bikes the caps have corrosion where it meets the reservoir. Be Cool and Ride Safe.🇺🇸🏍
Yah, that's why we also say to lay it right side up, so you won't get seepage around that lid. It works. Thanks for weighing in
Wait, you wash the cap with water? I thought the whole idea was to avoid moisture, how do you wash it out without breaking the black seal (inside of cap, the thing with all those lumpy rectangles) and secondly how do you dry it out (method) and know it's completely dry and you're not adding moisture back into the system?
Great video sir, thanks for your input, appreciate it a ton!
This is one of those issues that divides people in a passionate way. Prior to ABS brake flushing was a task that any DIYer could do on their bike. But ABS introduced a solenoid/valve, subject to corrosion and consequent failure. The motor company maintains that to flush the brakes entirely you have to use Digital Technician to cycle the valve while flushing the system to completely flush. My dealer charges an hour, other posters have mentioned a half hour. The motor company is backed up by their knowledgeable engineers, and their highly conservative product liability legal advisers and probably a senior management highly attuned to profit maximization.
Then we have a plethora of social media commentators, including Ryan, that assure us that you too can DIY this procedure. And he may be right. I honestly do not know. But having had an accident where I lowsided my FLHRC, and ABS might have prevented said accident, I want to make sure that the ABS always works on my replacement FLHTCU.
You pays (or not) your money, but you ALWAYS takes your chances!
Awesome Job Bro!!! Thanks a million
Great video man! Appreciate you guys!
I have over 50k on my road glide ultra 107 never though about the filter. Thanks so much
reservoir is 9-11 inlbs on my 21 low rider S. you dont want to over tighten. on some bikes it can crush the gasket and prevent it from sealing properly.
New to your channel thanks and will look for more tips in future.
Welcome!!
Great video. Well explained and good visuals. My question, is especially on a system that has been neglected... Wouldn't it be a good idea to also tear-down the calipers as well?... My experience has been that crud and rust can lodge there. (Because the bleeder screw is at the top of the caliper, the sediments will collect at the bottom where they can't be flushed out.) When this happens it can wear the piston seal leading to brake failure. Also, if moisture has collected there the caliper cylinder can become pitted, also resulting in brake failure... I know it's a lot more work but, if you're cleaning the master and the lines, you might as well do it all.
When you say tear down the callipers, how do you mean?
My bike (09 Rocker C) hasn't been ridden in about 1.5 years, went to move it yesterday, front brake lever is rock hard and wheel is almost locked up.
With me sitting on bike trying to walk it backwards and a guy leaning from the front of the bike into the front wheel forcibly rotating it backward, we could only move it a few feet.
So I don't know what has caused it, but I'm going to flush the fluid (hoping that may fix it), most likely replace pads at the same time.
Should I be doing anything to the callipers other than pushing pistons back in to take new pads?
Like this video . Thanks for info about the tools..Greetings from Sweden : )
Thanks your videos help very much
Fantastic. Thanks a lot!
Thanks alot. Harley just got my last $100+ for this. Thanks again.
Great to hear!
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Going to purchase brake flush kit! Thank you Law abiding biker
Great video, I’ve done the same procedure with a hand held mity vac. Only difference I was Leary about sucking as much fluid initially out of the MC’s. Logic tells me if you suck it “all” out of the MC, you can’t help but introduce air into the system pouring new fluid into a completely empty MC?
If any air gets into the system you can bleed it all you want, but with ABS you will never get it out without a trip to the dealer is what I was told anyway. Thanks for sharing.
We've used a hand held mity vac as well. The dealers are good at scaring us into taking our bikes to them.
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Love this Chanel thank you for videos keep up the good work
Thanks for watching!
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Love you channel thank you
Great video the best on CZcams
Thank you for the help and savin $$$
Back before Mighty Vac some of the garages had pressure bleeders. There was a pressure pot with brake fluid in it. A hose going to a special cap on the reservoir. You put pressure in the pot (not a lot) that pushed fluid in from the pot. The low pressure only added fluid that was bled out so it didn't over fill. The you could bleed all the brakes by your self.
Mostly I'd get a friend or mom or my sister to push the brake pedal down. I give the command Okay now then they would let me know when the pedal was held on the floor so I could open the bleeder. Then after closing the bleeder say Okay pump it up again. You don't want to wait too long between pumps and bleeding as the air bubbles will slowly rise anywhere the lines go up hill and the air will still be trapped there.
When I was by my self I'd find something to hold the pedal down like a stick maybe snow broom between the steering wheel and the pedal or the seat. Now you kids got it easy. Back in the 70s I bought a hose with a check valve to push on the bleeder so the air didn't go back in when the pedal was let up. It kind of worked but I always pumped too hard and fast and blew the hose off.
Great helpful video. What was that lock washer on the running board from as you sealed the rear master cylinder cap ?
Awesome video.
Thanks
Good shit. Love the videos.
TY!!
Thanks for the video 🫡
Thank you !!
Thx 4 the info, godspeed..
Thanks for this. Will be doing this after my 50k
Thanks!
Hello Sir,
Video makes total sense, and has worked well for my factory calipers, however, on my 2020 FLHX w/ABS, If I am installing a new set of front (chrome) calipers would I follow the following procedure? THANK YOU ! !
1. Remove existing front left caliper
2. Install new front left caliper
3. Remove front master cylinder cap
4. Squeeze front brake lever to push caliper cups towards rotor
5. Now bleed front left caliper
The above sequence makes sense (my assumption) because Im trying to fill the caliper with fluid prior to bleeding.
Make sense?
Thanks again!
Love your videos!!
Hi Ryan great easy to follow video, I've just done all my oils on my 2011 street bob, just a suggestion for you when you lessen the bleed valve on calliper s, use the ring end of the ring spanner,it will grip the bleed valve on all sides and not just the 2 of the open ended spanner. Ride safe
RegardsJon in the UK👍
What a great video!
Is the vacuum pump recommended for ABS, or will the manual pump do?
I always cycle my ABS module after a flush then flush again. Merely flushing the brakes does not move fluid through the ABS module. I just did a video on it while I was chasing down an ABS light issue.
Great job!
Thank you! Cheers!
I experienced full brake failure due to boiling fluid turning to gas coming down Mt. Washington Auto Road. Front AND rear! Two-up! Talk about intense!
Dang! That is not good
@@RyanUrlacher when I changed out the brake fluid it was the same color as coca cola. We managed to use our feet to stop in a turnout area and waited for them to cool and they came back again after about 20 minutes.
very clear and pro thanks i will be back.
Thank you!
My 2023 Tri-Glide needed a fluid change at around 6 months.
I know you know but you forgot to mention that after you pump the lever and foot pedal to get a solid feel back you should recheck the fluid level before tightening the cap up and calling it done
digitalidiot23 you better answer him Ryan, or Oscar gonna ‘top you’re balls off’.
No, he didn't forget. He said it for the front and back.
I couldn’t get any fluid sucked out until I pumped the brakes. Hopefully that wasn’t a complete mistake? Nothing was coming out after cracking open the valve…not sure why. I had fluid in the reservoir. Tried opening up the valve more and still nothing for a few minutes until trying to pump the brake lever. The brake fluid in this new to me bike was extremely old, not sure it’s ever been changed in 12k miles…
May have missed it but where is your link for the Mighty Vac?
Great instructional video!
hi, great job+video JEZ
got a 96 dyna wide glide. replaced rubber front and rear. rear brake pumps up stiff until rolled backwards, then pedal is gone. any ideas on this one? no leaks anywhere from res to cal. will be flushing both front and rear brake systems. rubber replaced by a local custom shop.
Regarding changing/flushing brake fluid every two years - You change brake fluid because the fluid in the caliper near the brake pads gets hot and breaks down. The brake fluid that breaks down due to caliper heat will sludge up and this sludge and will seize the caliper piston. That's why calipers seize. Heat from the brakes, not time or water. Thank you for the video!
Thanks for watching. Actually, everything stated is correct. We have the actual Harley Service Info and bulletin in hand. Ride safe.
Here is some info to those who are new to working on their bike. If your fluid turns black, make sure your pads are not dragging on the rotor. That will also heat up the brake fluid. I had it happen when I didn't know better. It locked my front tire up
When you sucked all the fluid out of the top brake reservoir, did this process introduce air to the brake system.?
Good information sir 👍☕️☕️✌️