Tile backer board installation - 60" bathtub surround walls for Tile installation Part"2"
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- čas přidán 1. 10. 2013
- In part "2" I am showing step by step installation of tile backer board ( cement board) around standard
60" tub in smaller bathroom. You will see All, preparation, installation and finish product. - First video of this type on WEB !!!
Thank you for stopping by.
Michael - Tile Master - Jak na to + styl
Michael, you have the best videos on tile installations. You should teach in a vocational school. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Sir, After firing my contractor for shotty work I complete the install myself with much help from your videos. The $5 donation to your site was probably the best $5 I ever spent. Thank you
Just wanted to say that I can notice you take time and skill in what you are doing.
I also appreciate that you explain step my step with all the thoughts that come
to you.
Great videos! Thank you for your expertise and insight into how to set up the backboards for tile installation.
I like the way he screws in blocks and shows how sometimes it may give you some trouble, I would do a few things better since I'm OCD as hell. Overall it's nice to see someone showing all of the install without the cuts and edit to show people the real how to video. Wish he would've explained why he didn't attach the tub to the studs by drilling through the tub itself, glad he showed it a few times at least though. I prefer the cement board rather than the gypsum like wonder board since its recommend by most tile manufacturer's instructions, but I can see where most people would like to work with an easier/lighter material. Great job overall man 👍
I'm thinking the tub is a Metal Tub, I was thinking the same thing
I am learning a lot from all your videos. So glad you are taking the time to make them. They are a great teaching tool. I love your quality of work.
You are one smart dude. The trick with the tile lapping the wallboard on the edge is genius.
It has been worrying the hell out of me what to do right there.
Thanks for all the videos, you are very good at what you do and produce quality work. Now, I will have a shower that will last a long time because of your tips and methods.
Wow, lots more work & detail than Home & Garden program shows in their episodes. Being the handy person in my household, I appreciate the details...and resent them at the same time...😂😂😂. I'm thinking I can do that, it's the 4 steps before that ONE that makes me grumble.
Great work, very helpful. Was going to pay someone to do the job, but after watching the video going to do it myself. watched the video for removing a fiberglass tub and save $300.00 by doing it myself. just might do the whole job myself. Thanks.
Really appreciate your attention to detail. Keep up the good work
Thank you SO much for this series of videos! I had been TERRIFIED to try to renovate my bathroom before finding your wonderful step-by-step videos. I'm SO excited to get started on my project! I'm sure I'll be re-playing them over and over again, but your instructions are so clear and precise that I'm positive that the outcome will be great! Thanks again! Your work is beautiful!
lolz any leaks?
Great work!
You are a true Craftsman, Thank You
This project in a plaster wall situation would be helpful. I am sure its very similar but adapting the wall behind the surround must be different in some ways. Thanks again!
Michael, I have some questions.. but first let me say that you do a very, very good job of explaining in details and giving tips and showing how to do things. I have been watching your videos all day long and learning a lot for my project. . We built our house almost 7 years ago. There is a Roman Faucet with a handheld shower mounted through holes on the tub. Plumber tried to get me to have a wall shower put in at build time saying I would want it within 3 months and I insisted I wouldn't since I had the hand held. It took 7 years but I do want a wall shower with its own faucet now. My plan is to tie in to the pex pipes (the whole house is in pex) between the wall and the roman faucet with a shut off valve and then a T that will go up to the shower faucet for hot and cold, then continue on to the roman faucet.That way the Roman Faucet will still have the same functionality and the Shower will be its own separate unit as far a plumbing goes. Does that sound right?...My problem is how to tile around this tub. The plumber ordered the wrong tub, a drop in with smooth edges, when it should have been an alcove with a lip. It is an extra large and odd sized tub, so regular surrounds wont fit around it without ugly joints. They installed green board to about 1/4 inch above the tub,and we never finished it out with tile because we didn't know how to handle the issue with the rounded off tub. Also, the tub is not mounted correctly. It has 4 "legs" that barely sit on 2x4s he just stacked insecurely under the legs of the tub, with no support underneath. there is a crack in the bottom where I step in, so I plan to get it repaired again.So here are my questions: 1- I saw how you said the tub needs to be level but there is nearly 8 inches between the floor and bottom of the tub so will the foam work in leveling it? or how would I go about it without removing the tub and damaging the special drain it required? 2- do I remove the green board and replace it with backer board, because you said not to do the 2 layers due to moisture. 3 - Can I put the waterproofing membrane ON the tub and make a "corner" using the tape with the bottom half on the tub and the top half on the board?...or how do I waterproof without the lip? Sorry this is so long, but I felt you needed to understand in order to answer. Thank you for your videos and thank you for your time.
Well done! The video was very helpful.
Thanks! what you did is an awesome job!
Thank you Daniel - it means a lot to me....
Great Videos! Awesome information. It's nice to see that the pros make cutting mistakes too! :)-
you do awesome work. thanks for sharing your knowledge
Excellent instruction
Another great video. One observation: people's tastes change, and sometimes people sell their houses to someone who wants a different bathroom. My impression is that, with all of the foam and liquid nails, if you ever had to rip out one of your own installations, you'd hate yourself! I like to think of the next guy, and put things in solidly but in such a way that they can be removed easily, especially with old cast iron tubs that can't easily be replaced. Thanks!
Hey there
I do enjoy your videos and thanks for your time make them
I would like to see you make a video from start to finish to install twelve inch tiles
From the point how to place them to placing the grout
Thanks again
This is very good instruction.
First of all Great Video's! you have paid your dues and your opinions are greatly appreciated, could you elaborate a little on the backer board and waterproofing, I've purchased H-board and RG waterproofing, noticed you had said on your floor tile video, that you had to remove H-board and wasn't impressed with what had seen. Also from watching your video's I see the mistakes I made on my first home tile job back in 1998 in Orange County California Thanks again! for saving me Money! Keep the Video's Rolling....
Hi Tile master,
Once again thanks for your great videos - they have been a huge help for me. I am currently installing permabase backer board around my bathtub and am wondering if you would use the same fiberglass tape that you used for this project on the cement backer board. thanks, bindy
Question on the tub lip transition.
First, what brand of tape and liquid membrane did you use? Second, did you paint the entire CBU, or just the corners and edges? Finally, and most importantly,is the use of silcone. I plan to use RedGuard on the entire wall and keep my CBU 1/8th inch off the tub lip, then tile over that all the way down to the tub. I'm worried that moisture will go through the grout, hit the RedGuard, then gravity will take it to the tub/tile union. If I use silicone instead of grout at this junction, will the moisture have nowhere to go and mold? I'm wondering if I should just grout this area and let the water have an escape route.
Great videos!
I'm gathering my supplies and had a couple of questions about the floor. What brand of tile board do you use for the floor and is it required for concrete slab? Is the thinset the same that you use for the wall tile? Also, just so I'm clear, you use the thinset just to fill the gap between the tub bottom and the floor and for added support?
Thanks!
What happened. I wanted to see how you waterproofed it. Did you use thin set and tape on the joints?
after you siliconed where the board meets the tub lip did you versabond the void or did you tile down to the bottom of the tub less your grout line
Michael, thanks so much for these thorough videos! I'm a GA girl transplanted to NY now (wish I was in GA still I'd HIRE you!). I'm attempting to tile a bathroom myself for the first time and watching these to get me through. The floors are miserably un-level/sloped, do you have a video showing how the leveling compound works? I understood you lay the backer board first (thinset + backer board + screw down), but could you explain how to use the leveling compound? Thanks so much. Melody
THis denssheild seems very appealing as far as weight and cutting. Is it lighter than Wonder board? Is silica dust an issue with this product? I know that hardy board stuff is pretty dangerous to cut without hazmat suit.
Michael, on the floor did you put thinset down then denshield and levelling compound on top of that. I couldn't quite follow the order. Thanks
Hi TileMaster. In the ATL area, where can you buy your denshield?
Does durok have vapor barier as well or how do you water proof that ?
Thanks and great video.
what did you cover the notched holes with above the lip of the tub before waterproofing? Fiberglass tape?
you say that you don't like to use caulk become it always molds and then you use it behind the tile where you'll never be able to stop mold when it happens? does the water barrier bond to and cover the silicone caulking ? just learning here
Thanks for posting!! I am putting up concrete board on sat. and tiling on sun. Questions:
1. I am running 3 inch bullnose down side of tub. Tub in 30 inch and DenShield is 32 inches. Should I run the extra 2 inches down side of tub?
2. Other videos I have watched have said to leave 1/4 inch gap between concrete board joints. You do not. Why?
3. When starting tiling...Do you start at bottom like in shower video or do you start halfway up like some other people do?
Thanks!
Michael, I was only able to get 5/8 Denshield in my area. The entire bathroom is down to the studs so I don't have any transition issues since I can also use 5/8 drywall. Is this 5/8 Denshield OK for the standard tub installation like in this video? I am ready to get rolling thanks to all your videos and materials you sent. Thanks for everything man!
I'm laying tile in my kitchen. I'v heard that using Luan Plywood as the floor underneath the tile is a good option instead of the cement board. Using cement board in the bathroom is ideal because of the moisture. what do you think
Very nice
Thoughts on using ditra & Durock over plywood flooring?
so after you caulk the tub joint , what goes over that ? I was going to put thin set and kerdi-ban.
The garage is unlocked👍
Please get a better caulk gun. I highly recommend the Dripless ETS2000. You can get one on amazon. It will pay for itself with just a few uses with all the caulk you will save. I have thousands of dollars worth of tools, and this caulk gun is probably my favorite. Makes caulking so much easier
I want to see the waterproofing of the backer board part!!
You didn't see it because he didn't do it. That type of backerboard has built-in waterproofing that he showed in another video, but I wonder how well it's worked out over all the years. I'm used to seeing some sort of water proofing (ie membranes, kerdi-boards, RedGuard) beyond just the backerboard itself.
@@think41c 7 years old my comments is...but I'll entertain your response. Should always waterproof the backerboard regardless of product. I personally use Hydroban... probably better than most products out there.
Did you do the thinset and then add the leveling compound on top of that only to thinset again on top of that? If so, why did you put the thinset down first?
Does your board have to be primed before adding tiles? I know you are going to water proof the corners etc, but what about the larger smooth surfaces???
dzieki za wyczerpujca instrukcje. Jakos chyba przeoczylem ten moment kiedy na scianie pojawilo sie cos niebieskiego. Czy to jest ten waterproofing o ktorym mowiles , ze bedziesz go robil? Gdzie mozna obejrzec ta czesc procesu? Dzieki jeszcze raz.
Did he caulk the perimeter of his floor backerboard in between the wall/floor? I herd it wont adhere to grout/thin-set when you put the tiles. any thoughts?
U r great
What do you use to waterproof the screw holes and the joints?
Quick question: What kind of waterproofing membrane and waterproofing filler are you using?
What kind of silicone is best to use between the tub and cement board before I tape and fill with thinset?
Karol, nie ma sprawy - ciesze ze moglem pomuc....Jezeli chodzi o waterproofing to zobacz moje inne video jak robie waterproofing w shower - bardzo podobnie. Jezeli chcesz zobaczyc jak zrobilem waterproofing na tym projekcie to poczekaj , zaladuje to video w przyszlym tygodniu - napewno bedzie !
Pozdrawiam.
Michal
Hi tile Master what face out on hardibacker on walls the smooth or rough?
Does the drywall go over the lip or under lip on the tub
Just a comment.....I know you are very experienced in laying the board, but for someone who is inexperienced.....wouldn't dry fitting the board before using the PL 400 or liquid nails and then fitting the boards be adviseable? just an idea....Again, thanks for your videos!
Czy permabase cement board jest OK na showers and around tubs? Jakie z tym problemy in the long run? Thank you
I see a lot of people installing Ditra for the floor, but I haven't seen you use it. Is there any particular reason you avoid it?
Thanks again for all of your videos!
Hey I live in a town house and I removed the fiberglass shower.. behind the shower was a black wall(fire wall). Can I lay durarock ontop of the fire wall?
Super , na pewno obejrzę. Kupilem właśnie townhouse i tak sie wyczyściłem z kasy, że muszę spróbować zrobić ile sie da samemu. Mój problem to rozmiar łazienki - 59". Musiałem kupić wannę 54" i mam 5" kłopotu. Poradź mi czy spróbować zrobić półeczkę Czy mając na uwadze ,że jestem beginner - zbudować ściankę tak żeby płyta cementowa schodziła na wannę tak jak na dwóch pozostałych ścianach? Nie zalecasz Hardibackera ale u mnie w SanPedro(LA) tylko to sprzedają.
What do you do if the backer board varies 1/4" from top to bottom?
Dropping your backer board on top of the tub flange and expecting a bead of silicone to provide a permanent water seal is absolutely destined to fail. Maybe later in the video series you add a proper, permanent flashing at that joint?
Are you using a standard dry way screw to hang those teil backer panels or should i use a special screw?
Also is the liquid nails needed? Or it that a skip able step?
Special screws like 'Backer-On' 'Rock-on' or similar should be used. Purple 'Rock-On' for 'Wonder Board.' Green 'Backer-On' for Hardie Backer and Durock. Not sure for others.
Do you put liquid nails on the studs before installing wonderboard or other kind of cement board? By the way your videos have helped me a lot thanks for your videos!
Nando P he did. Nothing real specific just "liquid nails".
Can’t find densheild. What is your second choice?
Thank you for your great videos!! They are the best! I had a new acrylic tub installed but I want to install the backer board and tile. the thing is that my tub has a double flange. How would you advise that I mount the denshield? In your video you show the Denshield resting (almost) on the top edge of a single flange tub. Being that mine is double flanged, I'm guessing the steel studs should be firred to bring the denshield forward so that it rests (almost) on the "middle step" (if you consider there is a top edge, a middle step and then the tub deck)? Thanks very much for your advise.
moochiewa I honestly can not imagine your case, not sure what to advice. Just make sure that tile board is slightly farther than final flange. I also do not recommend for tile board to touch flat part of tub. It will be ok if it seats on top of the flange ( as shown in this very video)
TileMasterGa The double flange tub I have is the diagram on the far right (#3) in the pic below. I'll be using Denshield instead of cement board (CB) or Kerdiboard. The red square shown would be tile. I don't know what Mapeilastic is (I assume some type of vapour barrier) but I won't be using it either. Just tile on Denshield on furring strip on framing stud. Would you agree with installing it the way it's shown in the pic on the far right (#3)? Thanks very much again Michael. I really appreciate your help!
moochiewa Doesn't look like the diagram I included came through! : (
Michael, you forgot to mention how you filled the gap between the small opening between drywall and front corner of tub (18:50). You mentioned using fiberglass tape. Is the tape overlapping over the tub? How did you do it? Thanks!!
czcams.com/video/-Ql2xnSU1b8/video.html
26:15 he mentions it but doesn't show it.
You applied thin set directly to plywood. Do you suggest adding Durock layer and Ditra membrane on top of plywood subfloor? I have pier/beam cottage and am concerned about tile cracking due to movement. AWESOME videos thanks.
Andrew Brown he put thinset as glue for cement board on plywood floor. Tile comes after.
Tony W. Denshield does not require vapor barrier.
Hi, can you please explain why you caulked where the backerboard meets the tub flange Before using a waterproofing membrane like hydrobarrier? Wouldn't it be better to use waterproof membrane first and then silicone after as nothing adheres to silicone properly? Also that way water won't be able to penetrate through the membrane as it would silicone. And also why is a 1/4" gap not required? Wouldn't that create more chance for water to wick up the board? Thanks.
Cathryn Duong His tub lip is tall relative to some others and he put silicone along the bottom edge of the board. The liquid nails prevents the board from moving so the silicone bond isnt stretched.
On the floor, I want to make sure I understand what you did. You first laid backer board on top of thinset, and then self-leveling compound on the backer board? Correct?
That is correct Paul.
One more question. Rather than using furring strips to lift the Denshield out to the right postion, could I use greenboard under the denshield to do this. I only ask because I have extra greenboard on hand. Thanks again!!
moochiewa I do not recommend 2 layers of board - especially green board. In such case i would cut only strips to put on top of studs, and than solid tile board. I hope it make sense.
Best.
Michael
TileMasterGa Thanks Michael. I will definitely use furring strips on the studs instead of green board.
Is that white or clear silicone
I was always told to put the cement board on top of tube not on top of lip
Your license plate says it all. However, is there an advantage of using backer board on the sub floor before applying tiles versus just sticking the tile to the sub floor?
gus hardy wood can expand and contract, which can crack grout lines. Concrete does not.
What is the notch for at the bottom?
Hello
in this video you skip the part where you are taping and waterproofing the backer boards. is there a video that shows what to do?
Thank You for the great instructions.
I want to see that part as well
+Mike Mo I'm looking for the same thing. He skips the water proofing on the lip of the tub
+1971mgb I want to see a tutorial on this part of the project too.
+Darren Kemp I found it on his how to water proof video
Great, thanks!
Can you tell me where I can find the DensShield board? If I use Durock, do I need to put membrane over all of the board?
Thanks much!
-=Wen
+Wen You will be fine with durock or permabase.
I generally apply membrane as presented on video - bottom part, seams, corners, shower curb and nich. Those are only places whee water may travel.
Water will not travel through the tile ! and if you will do good work on grout and seal it correctly it will not travel through grout either.
Remodeling bathrooms for last13 years i never seen damage on flat wall ( only on builders grade application few times) Water travels usually from bottom to top on board, if you will run it all the way to tub or shower floor. I am explaining it in my videos.
If you wish you can paint entire wall.
Good luck
+TileMasterGa
Thanx so much! Your help and videos have been invaluable!! YOU rock!
-Wen
Michael, I am tiling up to my ceiling. Would I put the Laticrete with the Laticrete "paper" on the corner where the tile board and the ceiling meet?
+101keek Not Laticrete "paper" but Fiberglass mesh tape - not laticrete product. I am not usin Laticrete Fabric on my jobs ! Laticrete Fabric is to thick and hard to work with. This is what i use: www.amazon.com/dp/B00IVB5ATQ
Answering question, to ceiling i am recommending to use standard drywall joint tape, and no waterproofing membrane !! This product is hard to finish and to paint. The most important are walls 6' high from floor !!
Good luck.
Michael
I am using exactly what you use in your videos. You're right its not laticrete paper but the mesh tape you use. Sorry, my terminology is not correct. I'm a do it yourselfer. :). In fact I ran out of the fiber tape and just ordered more from you last night. Thank you for the quick shipment turn around btw. Thank you also for the recommendation on using drywall tape. I will certainly do that!!
I NEED one of those saws !!!!
FYI, cement board, no matter what brand, should NEVER sit on top of the tub lip, or shower pan lip, but rather about 1/8" above the tub or shower pan deck. To accomplish this, you need to install furring strips to the face of the 2x4s so the cement board will fall in front of the lip. See the Tile Council Of North America handbook for details and explanations as to why the cement board should be installed in front of the lip. Check Durock's website as well as Kerdi-Schluter's website for details as to how the backer board should be installed, but most importantly, why it should be installed in that manner. Best of luck to all of you DIYers!! There's nothing more fun than doing it yourself! :)
Why put Schluter mat over backer board ? And just a idea I cut the backer on a 45 degree angle to get down over that lip as much as possible
He he he he ,,, Pipes. Watch a out a for those a pips. Been there done that. Nice job.
A
Is your silicone "WHITE" or is it clear????
I noticed you did not tape the seams for the cement board using mortar and mesh tape before waterproofing. Why?
+KINGsizeWINNER I always use mesh to tape all seems before water proofing. I don't think there's such a thing as overkill when running water is involved. But.... the waterproofer is an anti fracture membrane. It will fill and cover the seems without cracking, even with some heavy house "breathing."
👍👍👍❤️🌹❤️
I've never seen anyone place that backer board even with the lip of the tub. How thick is the lip of the tub? Also what type of board is that looks like regular drywall. I'm sure it isn't but it looks that way.
Most recommend installing the tile backer to within about 1/4" of the tub's lip. The tile is then installed to within 1/8" of the top of the tub, overlapping the lip of the tub. He's installed Georgia Pacific Densshield as the tile backer, which is a moisture-resistant, lightweight product. Densshield is usually only available at supply houses.
www.familyhandyman.com/tiling/tile-installation/tile-installation-backer-board-around-a-bathtub/view-all
Michał - jeszcze jedno pytanko. Może masz jakiegoś kumpla fachowca ( godnego polecenia ) tu w Californii, który mogłby mi pomóc z moją wanną ;-)
Is that the same as the purple-board they sell at Home Depot? Great videos!
It's Georgia Pacific Densshield, and it's usually not found in the box stores. Supply houses carry it.
Lowes Carries it
Can someone please tell me what kind of saw he is using?
Oscillating tool
PLEASE I NEED TO KNOW WHAT KIND OF SAW HE USED IN THIS VIDEO...THANKS IN ADVANCE.
Ed Ardonn Rockwell
Looks a Dremel multi tool
how many days does it take you to finish a project starting from replacing tub to finishing with grout
This job start to finish took 7 days - not rushing anything !
Caution: Hermetically sealed or not, using silicone or caulk or petroleum-based products anywhere in the wet area of your shower will eventually mold. Once the tile is placed on the wall, the gap between the tile and tub is filled with non-sanded grout. Over time this grout will crack under the weight of water and people. Water will seep beyond this grout into the silicone area. This becomes a cauldron for bacteria where the mold will be progressive and on-going!
I hope you got a better camara to record by now, the image is to blury and the guy recoring moves too much the camara. other than that it is an awesome video.
i thought the backer board or Cement Board should go in front tub flange??
Nope
How do I contact you ?? I have all the materials needed for a walk in shower !!
his phone number is at the beginning of the video
polish contractors are the best
Bryan, I would never put any tile on any type of plywood - simple reason - durability !! there is many reasons why not - to many to write here.
If you need my opinion - you just got it... I hope it will help you make final decisions...Do not do that !!!
Mike
Needs to be water resistant drywall