5.3 Exhaust Manifold Leak Fixed With Dorman 917-142 Clamp
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2019
- On this 5.3 the 2nd stud back from the driver’s front was broken off. There was not a lot of information on how the exhaust clamp would work when an interior stud was missing. In this case it worked well. Hope this helps someone else.
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I just now used the Dorman front driver side clamp on my 2001 Tahoe, 5,3 Vortec. I am far from being a mechanic. It took me maybe 15 minutes max. Exhaust ticking gone! It fit perfectly with no trimming of heat shield required. I just disconnected the coil wire (left the spark plug wire connected) and temp sensor. I used anti-seize on bolts and screwed the clamp on and tightened down on the manifold bolt. Reattached everything and it worked like a charm! I highly recommend the Dorman clamp. Don't fool with cheaper model.
Thank you for the information & video, with the Dorman part # .🔧👍
Thanks great video, gonna do mine today !
I ran the sensor wire through the hole and plugged it in before I installed the bolts (1st time I could not get the sensor to plug in when the bracket was installed, so i had to pull it off and start over). So far so good, no annoying exhaust tick...
Cool! Thanks for this segment of show and tell
I’m having the same problem with my 5.3 this video is a life saver!!!
Glad it helped. I was dreading the thought of a major repair. Couldn’t be happier with the repair. I hope your results are equally good!
How did it hold up over time?
@@johnbowes724 sorry I missed this one. Still good!
Thanks for this video I’m almost sure this will fix my issue
I have the same issue but I also have the one at the back of the firewall do they sell one for that area as well
You don’t have to remove the heads to remove broken studs, remove front wheels, fender liners, and pull the manifolds off, clean the broken stud hole out with brake cleaner, get you a harbor freight welder and a bucket of nuts and weld it on. If you’re lucky it’s either stuck out or flush, I’ve had them recessed in 1/8th inch. Fill in the hole with weld and then weld a nut to it. Slowly back it out, loosen and tighten. I’ve had one broken off on both back firewalls that’s the most pain.
Get a punch and firmly tap that stuck bolt to break it free and then You can use a copper tube to run down however far it is recessed into the hole then fill that with weld up to a nut. That’s the way I’ve had the most success
That's where mined broke off as well
I mean, that's kinda outta the realm of the diy-er. Buy a welder, learn to use it, etc etc. But you're not wrong, I suppose
@@natemartinez4595 I’m a diyer and it’s exactly what I did. Don’t forget to chase the threads after you get bolts or you’ll be snapping more bolts in those bad threads
Great information!
2007 Silverado classic. Both bolts have broken on the driver side and passenger side closest to the dash. How many clamps do I need and where do they go question
Would this work on 2018 silverado?
My leak happened in the passenger side. Missing two studs on the rear of manifold. Do they make those clamps for that side???😮
Right I got see if that work on my dodge ram 2001 360cu in driver's side back by firewall exhaust leak if Not what pain ass to pull mine all apart 2-weeks to fix mine alone.
When reading the description of where the clap will be located and it says “rear left” is this looking at the engine or sitting in the vehicle?
My understanding is rear faces transmission. Left and right are from drivers seat. Left would be driver’s side.
09 tahoe 5.3 both rear bolts are gone/missing /broke.. so it says rear left/right is rear looking from front of engine or driver seat
My 09 F250 leaks from exhaust tip and rattles from the front when I start it. Should I replace the exhaust manifold ?
Hard to say without seeing or hearing the problem. Sounds like you should get it evaluated and make your decision based on a mechanics findings. Good luck!
I’m looking for one of these now for my 6.2L. Wasn’t sure how they worked but this definitely worked. They’re hard to find right now like everything else. Wondering how it held up because I’m not thrilled about removing the whole exhaust manifold
No issues. Someday I might have to do the manifold but it is still hanging in there.
I got mine on ebay for like 35 buck for all 4
@@Operator-fq2fn what a deal, i feel like gm should have had these on from the factory
ever find a fix without removing the manifold? dorman didnt work for me. 17 sierra
Mine does the same!!! I now will check out those studs!
Turns out I have a broken stud on each side and they are both up front so easy fix!
I installed it and it fixed my issue!!!
Did you have to trim your heat shield?
@@matthew8193 can’t remember I think I just bent it out of the way or removed it.
Mine is the very front manifold bolt on driver side do you think that will still fix it?
Dorman makes a different clamp for the outside bolts. See if 917-107 or (something similar) will work for your vehicle.
There is a mechanic that's a CZcams or that hates Dorman products, but it looks like this product might have a chance to work, but you still tightening with one bolt or at least the pressure.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
You are welcome, welcome,welcome!
@@growntogether9913 I’ve had this exhaust leak for two years and I always thought it was coming from my Y pipe but now I know
Just my luck...the #8 cylinder had the exhaust leak. Bought the 917-142 and damnit if the rear bolt hole that this was supposed to attach to was broken off! Fortunately, the rear bolt that was missing from the exhaust manifold was just missing and not broken off.
Mine does not get better with heat
So I looked on rock auto they have the parts but I’m confused as to which one I should order
If you haven’t already, try Dorman first to get the part number for your vehicle and application. Then order by part number from the website of your choice.
Mine sounds just like this but it’s coming from under the vehicle can’t really hear it from under the hood is it still the same or no
If it’s coming from the bottom of the engine probably not. You’re getting close to crank bearings and stuff down there. Does it do it all the time? Does it go away when you have oil pressure?
Will the manifold exhaust leak cause loss of power?
It would have to be a pretty big leak.
Anyone know of a manifold bracket available for my 06 5.4L 3v.?
Have a look at this site. I believe if you call they will help you with ordering repair parts for newer Ford engines. kralautoparts.com/product/exhaust-manifold-bolt-repair-kit-kap5-4-single/
@@growntogether9913 thank you sir.
my ticking noise used to get better as the engine warmed up but now it just continues to tick
On dormans website it says it doesn’t fit my vehicle. I have a 2011 silverado 5.3. Isn’t that what you have? An 07-13 silverado 5.3?
The video is a 2009 5.3. I see Dorman curiously omits 2011. I would call customer service. It is doubtful the manifold changed for one year.
@@growntogether9913 okay thanks man!
hi deos it give slight rough idle ?
Not that I have noticed.
@@growntogether9913 thank you
Will it work on drivers rear
There is a “rear” bracket. Might suit your needs if you google that one.
mine makes this noise passenger side and goes away once warm it sounds like under the truck i thought it was the flange but its near the header
Sounds like a leaky exhaust manifold for sure. Heats up and seals better.
I have a leaking exhaust manifold .. it looks like drivers side in the front.. Where do I know from, if it is the bold and not the only the gasket? Can I see it from above if its the Bolt in the front (Chevy Express 4.8 V8 - 2005), when I remove the dog house?
Nice video btw :)
You could see if the Dorman corner bracket clamp is a better fix. That clamp is meant for front studs. I don’t think the 2005 will have an exhaust gasket. The newer V8 engines no longer use them. Hope one of them helps your leak!
@@growntogether9913 Ahh. man, you are an eye opener.. so there is no seal/gasket between the engine and the exhaust manifold? So when the exhaust is leaking, it has to be because of a broken bolt?
@@rehab4everybody Very likely.
@@growntogether9913 So good to know. Thank you man!
My truck failed inspection for an exhaust manifold leak,any idea if with this clamp it would go through?
i really wish people would be specific about what kind of vehicle they have... i recently bought a clamp for a 2018 silverado with the bolt broken on the manifold and it wasn't the right clamp even though the description said it worked on 2018 chevy silverado with 5.3,
Should work on all 5.3 v8 engines. But you have to buy the correct part. There are different shapes depending on where you need to make the repair at.
I bought one made for the front driver side and another one for the rear driver side. They are both different. Maybe you got the wrong one?
Yeah, that work good ,I install six o those ,that one at front driver side, center and rear it works the same clamps on the passenger side in the opposite direction, one hour repair, that sweet I didn't have to remove any bolts Haha, this isn't a mystery GMC meant to get this clamps in the market that explains that extra holes all around the manifolds heads 👍
Removing the bolts are pretty easy I live in PA and mine is a 2000 Silverado 1500 heat them with a torch to cherry red tap it with a hammer and they come out like butter but unless they are broke this is perfect
Pedro was your truck misfiring bad before you installed them
Have a link to all of the clamps?
@@THERIPPER216 get them on Amazon.
Search your vehicle name and manifold clamp
I did my drivers back and it was very hard.
I also need my pass front. But it looks like there’s some bracket using the hole
The clamp for the backside is definitely more of a challenge. Not sure what to tell you about that front. I know there are other solutions out there. Perhaps another manufacturer has a slightly different clamp that might work?
@@growntogether9913 he is probably talking about the egr on the front passenger side
Does this cause engine light to turn on?
@@carloscocojr no. Do you mean with the champ on will it cause the engine light on ?
@@chachifeere I have a broken bolt on the manifold and I hear the leak. So does that cause the engine light to turn on? Without the clamp
Since there a problem with the 5.3 why not install that clamp before it fbecomes a problem with the clamp it my not break the manifold bolt that my be the fix for chey and dodge
Dodge have the same problem
You are lucky the first one broke mine is the last two at the back of the engine 😢
Will this work the same for a 5.7 v8?
The part number is almost certainly different but you should be able to find one for a 5.7.
@@growntogether9913 i tried so far nothing for the 5.7 liter.
Pass side rear broken head, not leaking yet. I've been gearing up for this battle, lubing them copiously with penetrant oil. Had two on a 3/4 6.0L that were a monster bitxx to get out with head installed. These weren't available then. I think I'll still change out the good ones with new anyway to avoid, if possible, any further headaches. Crap design for so long and they just keep ignoring it.
I got all of mine out by just using wd40 over a course of two weeks.As long as your bolts and manifolds aren't rustic looking they should come out easy just don't use a breaker bar or impact only a socket and ratchet.
@Tyler Hubbell Welding a nut over a washer over the broken stud is the answer. The heat breaks loose the thread locker and the nut can be wrenched out even in the worst position.
@@JoeBribem you could do that if they break but I was talking about trying to get them out if they aren't broke "YET".
You would think they could come up with head bolts that wouldn't snap. Course there's subjected to a lot.
The issue isn't the bolts.Gm put loctite on the manifold bolts from the factory hoping they wouldn't back out when they never do....GM just doesn't know that torquing it down is good enough.
Why my bolt not go all the way in one of them is fine any one have any clue
You can easily weld a nut to it and they come right out. that clamp is ugly AF.
The last two I got out with vise-grips there was a small bit left on them to grab on. tapping with a hammer 1st helps. Goodluck all and don't use an easy out google is your friend 🍻
Or fix it right
This makes zero sense. The bracket was designed to fix the broken front bolt and you still had the front bolt there. The broken bolt is on the right side below where you put the right side bracket bolt.
You got it exactly right. That is what the video covered.
@@growntogether9913 The video is great, but a bit confusing. If the first bolt on your manifold was good (as shown in the video), how did you use this clamp? You would have had to remove that first bolt, but your video doesn't show that. Did you end up removing the front bolt from the manifold, and not using anything on the second bolt that was already broken?
8:00 minute mark. Description of video: On this 5.3 the 2nd stud back from the driver’s front was broken off. There was not a lot of information on how the exhaust clamp would work when an interior stud was missing. In this case it worked well. Hope this helps someone else.
If you’re dealing with the same issue, best of luck.
It works because the entire bracket tightens down on the manifold flange. The kit does not rely solely (or at all in this case) on the tensioner bolt.
@@Motovader72 no, the entire bracket does not tighten down on it. There is actually a gap there and you use the larger bolt to push the manifold to the engine.
Just another lack luster LS. One of many problems. Junk motor for junk cars
I will give you an E for effort. Couldnt figure out if the motor was front or back in the beginning but I know what a alternator is, I had to Cross reference and Identify. Other than that awesome video. Atleast you made a video! Maybe 1 day I'll do one! Go Chevy" salute 🫡