Noisy 5.3 gets fixed. Customer said it was tapping, but it was an exhaust leak
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2022
- Tapping 5.3 Chevy Silverado Ticking Noise Exhaust Manifold Bolt Broken 5.3 Tapping Noise 4.8 Tapping Noise 6.0 Tapping Noise Tapping LS Lifter Tick
#keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I repair all my own vehicles. when I am done the first person I thank is God for giving me the ability to perform the task. The second person I thank is the person that made the video that helped me get these projects done.
God bless you.
I'm the diy guy in my neighborhood and my neighbors like it.
Real talk 💯
Great video. Wish all mechanics where as good and honest as you are. Keep up the good work. 👍👍
It wouldn't matter if someone said something about a torque wrench, you do all great fantastic work...
I wish all manufactures would use stainless steel bolts on high rust areas. Another great how to video.
Stainless Steel does not have the same tensile strength as carbon steel.
@@fredburban8219 Correct, and they have a habit of loosening from aluminum heads...
@@steveo6631 they also can become galled which is awful.
Isn’t the risk of galvanic corrosion a concern from dissimilar metals?
It would be better if they went up a size or 2 to a bigger bolt….
Nice work! Thanks for all the tips throughout the entire process.
Great video, & teaching tool. Patience and knowledge to help everyone ! 👍👍
I suspect my van is having the same issue. These gaskets are very overlooked and im glad you made this video! Thanks
Fantastically Awesome job! Thank You!
Voice of experience is what you are. Trust you I would, were I in your neighborhood. Alas, It's Greetings and best Wishes from north of the border In Ontario, Canada.
Got the same bolt broken on my 2000 GMC 4.8 same sound.......thanks for the info on it.
I have the same sound with my 2016 chevy 5.3..thanks for the tip
Thank you for the information I'm working on my 1998 f 150 and it's been loud all summer long and hopefully it's a easy job.
Nice job explaining and showing. Thank you!
Such a great video you explained so much! Thank you for taking the time to do this and sharing 👍👍👍
I hope it was helpful. Thanks for your comment & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
I'm so glad you explained why you're not torqueing on that because experience mechanics do things by Feel all out of times Rookies will get on some old piece of equipment and proceed to break Or strip every bolt off because it won't Go to to speck
Had to remove a cracked exhaust manifold on my granddaughters mustang and soaked the bolts down with the engine warm with a mixture of diesel fuel and marvel mystery oil about 50/50 and let it sit overnight and sprayed them again in the morning and about noon time loosened up the manifold like it was just put in. People need to have patience and not trying to rush things. There is a penetrating oil spray called Deep Creep and I think it’s made by CRC or some similar company and it’s basically kerosene and other chemicals and it’s not cheap but I feel that my concoction works just as well and it’s a hell of a lot cheaper. LOL keep wrenching 👍
Transmission works better but I use your same exact message pretty much. I understand where you're coming from but these guys in the shop so I don't have the time 12 hours to soak bolts down and things like that typically when they have a high-volume clientele
@@JohnSmith-xx1lx Another thing that guys like jimdooner don't realize is confirmation bias. He has probably been using this mix of diesel/MMO for decades because some other old-timer told him it works, and every time he successfully completes a task in which the mix is involved, he confirms his existing bias that this mixture is what solved the issue. No telling whether or not it would have been any better or worse than WD-40 in that case. This is probably why each mechanic, or old guy with a garage full of wrenches has their own secret sauce for penetrating oils, and each one swears that theirs works, and that anything else simply isn't good enough.
Very much enjoy all of your content. Thank you. Failed exhaust gasket on my 5.3 Sierra sure sounded like a lifter rapping to me. $500 at the dealer to replace. I thought I was headed for a new motor.
Lmao me to shit my was sane freaking bolt
Thanks for a very informative video. Appreciate it
I've never torqued an exhaust manifold. Been a mechanic 28 years, never a problem. These are pretty easy. I had to replace a passenger manifold on a 2007, 5.4 f150. What a nightmare. Never again. Meineke can have those jobs, I don't want em
Yea, the Fords suck !!
I'm with you on not using the torque wrench on those I know you have done many and know by feel when you've got something like that tight enough especially when it's going to be a pain in the neck to get the torque wrench in there ! Good job Kenny 👍👍
It is amazing how much knowledge is required to be a auto mechanic..kenny obviously has about 12 encyclopedia's in his brain, very impressive..
Great video,,, Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video and thanks for them tips.
Thanks for the tips! Very helpful 👌🏼
I've used the brazing tip with the big torches better control in tight spaces
Great video, brother!
This happened to me except at the joint where the exhaust manifold meets the down pipe. The whole circumference of the pipe ripped off and it was a terrible noise. I tried JB Weld High Heat Putty but no good so I got it welded at the joint seem and did the trick for just $60 at a muffler shop. Mind you I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 that has 216k miles. Probably one the worst issues I had with it since owning it but still runs solid and reliable!
I bought a used 2005 Yukon XL this this past summer. It had 197,000 miles on ot, so I actually bought a power train warranty to give me a piece of mind. My intentions are to keep it until frames rusts out. The body had some rust but was in good shape. I also had the ticking sound and figured it was an engine problem, but after seeing your video I found out I have 5 bolts broken on the exhaust manafold. I am waiting to see, if the warranty will cover the issue. If not, I am going to have all the bolts replaced and hope it fixes the loud ticking sound.
Let us know how you make out !!
@@WrenchingWithKenny
Just got my 2005 yukon xl denali 6.0l back. Mechanic found 4 exhaust manifold bolts broken off. One bolt broke on one side and 3 bolts on other side. He tried to get the warranty to cover, but they would only cover it, if it was the engine causing the ticking. They did cover my front diff on the AWD grinding sound. Now no ticking and no grinding sounds. I can actually here the engine purr and sounds great. My mechanic said you basically have a suburban 6.0l and most ticking sounds related to engine is on the 5.3l Thanks Kenny
Great job 👏 👍 👌!
Kenny is a stud 😅
I usually replace with a stud and a nut which seems to work better than the cheap bolts that break
Lucky, got an easy one. Good methods to teach diy'ers
When I got my first really nice car I was obsessive about torque specs on every bolt and hitting them until I broke a bolt on some stupid bracket trying to hit the torque number for no apparent reason. Gave up after that. On a lot of stuff tight is tight. You get a feel for what's necessary. Get out the torque wrench on the head bolts and stuff like that.
Great job 😎
You are living right! Helpful tip: Use a good pair of vise grips to ensure success. Not something HF! Genuine Vise Grip
You need to use silver anti seize on Exaust bolt will help tremendously in removing then next time
how many miles did it have on it?
great video!
If you can weld what we used to to was get large steel nut slide it over the stud. Weld it and remove it before it cools all the way
If there is enough threads outside the head , I thread on a nut and tac weld the inside of the nut to the bolt.....voile!! Out comes the stud.
This video is a sign for me not to take those ‘round nut’ sockets back just because I couldn’t use them on my last job. Looks like the best $30 I’ve spent in a long time and what’s funny is I have a 5.3 on it’s way to me (my first van) with an exhaust leak so 👀 we’ll see if I’m lucky to get a nub of the bolt sticking out too! Lol
Thanks for the tip on Map gas! I would suppose that it could be also used to braze copper pipe fittings?
If propane can then Map should as well ,purhaps heat up a little quicker
Think You 💯💯💯
3.5 Eco-boost also prone to break rear manifold bolts.
Hi Kenny
Great job on the repair! So what do you think caused the bolt to break? Not stainless bolts or too soft of bolts? Grade 4 instead of 8? What grade were the stainless bolts, just curious. Keep up the great work.
common issue on the 5.3, had 3 on the driverside break on mine. Most times age and rust.
Put grease on gasket between head and manifold because alloy and cast move differently prevents gasket tearing works for me
Kenny, you are a precious find. Do you have an honest and competent cousin mechanic that lives near Woodstock, GA?
I appreciate your kind words. We live the furthest south out of everyone in my family. Plus, I'm the only mechanic. Check out your local area's Facebook page & Google reviews. That's how we found our plumber & pest control. Both of them are very talented with great worth ethics. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
I sometimes use a mini heat inductor.
Great work, Kenny. Have you tried the spray can freezing product? It's interesting. I guess I need a Mapp gas torch. Yesterday I watched Eric at SMA do the same job on the left side of a 5.3. It seems to be a problem area.
It's a problem with all V8s that have aluminum heads and cast iron manifolds due to the different expansion rates of the two materials.
So basically if I suspect that this is my problem I should be able to run my fingers along the manifold and try to feel for a broken bolt head, or missing in this situation
@@russellstewart5414 use a telescopic mirror
Awesome! 💪🏾
Got a 2000 5.3 here in the rust belt that has 350k on it......ol truck rotting away ...but motor is as good as it can be for as many miles its got.
Great video Kenny!
Let me make you a question... obviously the engine had a leak by the bolt missing.. This could create a condition of poor mix and affect the oxygen sensor signal??
Could a bad gasket (brocked), create too a poor mix?
Thanks in advance for your comments!!
yes, it can give a false reading
I have a 66 Chevy Impala with the same grade 3 exhaust manifold bolts in them , what did you do GM buy china bolts ?
Induction heaters work great for theses jobs. No open flame, no chance to heat what you don’t want to heat.
Have U ever tried Kroil penetrating oil ? (The oil that creeps) It is good stuff for stubborn seized bolts & nutz. Tks for the vids 👍🏻
Free all is also great best thing I've found
I have a 2007 expedition with a 5.3 liter V8. Had a ticking on start up only. The sound would go away after a second or two. Found out it was a lifter and it cost me $2600 to get fixed.
Wtf ...!!! Damm that it's expensive, I have the same problem on a Jeep cherokee so I'm screw can't afford that right now f...!!!🤦
@@russomestizo5226 $2600 sucks but better than a Ford dealer near me. Wanted$9000 and was going to keep it 3 months!
It looked like a shiny area on block where another gasket would have gone. Did he change the manifold?
Harbor freight sells 2 foot levels with machined flat aluminum surfaces that are precision flat for $5-10
I use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine !
I agree torque wrench not necessary for exhaust bolts if you need one for exhaust bolts you should find a new trade
Are u talking about dry starr crank rumble
Never heard a piston slap
Just how I hear it
So what was making that sound within the exhaust manifold? I am hearing a tick type sound in my 08 tahoe and am trying to diagnose whether it's the exhaust manifold or a spun out pulley?
I have an 07 silverado 5.3 v8.
I heard a bang under my truck while driving and immediately i heard the same 'tapping' noise.
The next day the tapping was gone.
Could the bang i heard be the manifold bolt breaking??
Its running like a champ.
Funny how many of the exhaust bolts and studs are somewhat small in diameter leading to a higher frequency of breakage.
In your experience do you think upgrading to the SS ARP bolts is better and provide more of a permanent solution for this type of issue?
either use a little anti seizeor use studs and a nut.
German tight,,, GOOD-N-TIGHT
Would this work on the 2006 SAAB 9-7X? It uses a 5.3L LH6 V8 and has a tapping sound like this chevy had and an oil check light
This just happened to me on my 2018 Silverado... Luckly still under extended warranties... Dealership to fix it was $2,400. Yikes!!!
Don't forget to re gap that number eight spark plug.
Great video have the same problem. I would use a toque wrench 😂
I have used PB blaster which is a penetrating oil and when I was out of it I used diesel fuel and left it overnight and had good results also anything to creep into the rust and threads
Back before computer controlled fuel management we didn't worry about gaskets just squirt a bit of oil down the carby & let them carbon up best seal you can get .Too bad you can't anymore.
How did you clean the sooted exhaust port to where it looked brand new?
I used a scotch-brite pad and elbow grease.
ihave a tapping noise when my engine heats up and inoticed im missing a bolt on my manifold but its snapped off do you think it could be that
Wish I lived near your workshop unfortunately I’m in Scotland 🏴 UK and there is some cowboys and rip off merchants in the city of Glasgow
You have a junkyard connected to your shop?
chevy has been making v 8 engines for almost a hundred years,what corners did they cut that has caused this problem to be so prevalent.
Could an exhaust leak in that location also cause a random misfire? My vehicle is a 2002 Silverado 6.0 gas engine. Looks like three (2 on one side and one on the other) exhaust bolts are broken.
And is there a reason you didn’t make the broken bolt in the block cherry red to assist in removal like you did with the other bolts not in the block?
Aluminum heads
Now that you fixed the exhaust leak you probably will here the Chevy 5.3 cold start piston slap
It was a little more noticeable lol !!
And he will continue to not give a fuck about it, because it does not matter. Throw a 250 shot of N2O every day and it would still run fine. Chevy 5.3L is the best V8 engine ever produced on that scale. It cannot be beat. (I DO NOT COUNT AFM ENGINES)
@@kylegreen378 🤪🍺
@@kylegreen378what a stupid comment. If the guy was actually continuing not to give a fuck about it, he wouldn't have brought it in, in the first place.
@@korndawggy1801 He did not bring it in for cold start piston slap, and this video doesnt even mention cold start piston slap. I was replying to a comment about cold start piston slap. Use your brain before you call other people stupid.
Is there a sleeve on the outside of the bolt @ 08:10 ?
Is this your shop? Why so many cars. They all can’t be waiting on parts?
I have a 2007 sierra classic 5.3, 266k miles and my ticking noise comes and goes. Truck runs great other than the noise. Is that an indicator of the problem? Sometimes it’s silent, sometimes you can somewhat hear it, and sometimes it is very loud. It’s not specific to cold start or at running temp. It’s completely random. Any tips would be appreciated.
Hi, It's Mrs Wrenching! You should go on the Facebook group Wrenching with Kenny (answer all the questions) put the year, make & model of your vehicle in your post. Be sure to include what is happening with your vehicle & what you have done to fix it so far. There are a lot of techs that may be able to help. The link is toward the bottom of the video. If you can video the ticking & say what you were doing when it started; ie going up a hill with a load of mulch in the back. That is always helpful. Keep wrenching!
@5:53 "It's still hot" !! :)
What you charge to do this and where are you located?
I believe this is another common issue. Just checked and I’m missing two one on each of the rear side
EXTREMELY common on these.
Please i need help i changed a knock sensor on my 2001 chevy tahoe cleared the light nd it came back on same codes again but i put brand new knock sensors nd wire to the knock sensor but it still shows its p0332 p0327
Why is the steering wheel on the right when you’re driving?
Did you need anti sieze with those stainless bolts into the aluminum block?
I dont use anti-seize on things like this. I'm afraid they would back out. I usually dont use anything on these with manifolds. If it had headers, I'd use locktite blue
@@WrenchingWithKenny gotcha, thanks.
I think he was referring to the stainless possibility galling the threads but that might be more of an issue with cast iron heads more so than aluminum heads. I have never seen antiseize cause a bolt to prematurely loosen. Just my experience over the years. And the bolt broke why? Was it just rusted out or was it the difference in expansion rate between the aluminum head and cast iron manifold?
After a few years experience your elbow will pop when proper torque is achieved!
Do the bolts need tighten again once it has been driven for some time
They should be re-torqued after a heat cycle
They never had trouble with the 3/8 bolts
could I use torque sticks
Really not sure why they don't use grade 8 bolts.
I tighten a lot of bolts without a torque wrench due to No room I call it Taylor Tight ......60 plus years of Wrenching...........
It's okay as long as you say "click" out loud.
That exhaust valve looks burnt white .I’d be sus of its seating & the valve seal . Stainless steel bolts is a no no stainless snap’s easily always use the correct bolts .
That “map” gas is only like 300-400 degrees hotter if u look at the bottle difference, not worth it in other words for the price differences
About how much it cost to have this done?
Are you located Virginia
I would not want to do this one. No antiseize on the bolts?
From the factory, I believe they have loctite. I wouldn't install them with antiseize due to the rate of expansion and contraction between the head and manifold. It would lead to them loosening up I would think .
@@WrenchingWithKenny Had similar issue with a 1983 production Series 3 (2.5 na) Land Rover 109"; I would have covered the exposed tops of the nuts and bolts with vaseline, had it not been for the wide variation in temperature of the manifold. If there's a way to fix that issue (prevention of corrosion of the exposed nuts and bolts), I don't know of one 🙁
@@Roger_Stenning Dissimilar metals contacting tend to cause corrosion. Perhaps the stainless steel bolts used by Kenny in this video help?
I have an exhaust leak but won't fix it as don't want to have a manifold stud break.
Be funny if thats what my 6.0 powerstroke is doing ahaha
Hoping it’s not a lifter.
I know I have an up pipe leak