Does My Supercharged S2000 Have A Hot Air Intake?
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- čas přidán 19. 06. 2018
- Does your car have a hot air intake? Will a cold air intake make more power? Can swapping your intake make your car faster?
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While installing the supercharger on an AP1 Honda S2000, the stock air-box is removed and replaced with a short intake which mounts directly to the centrifugal supercharger. This replacement, however, moves the intake closer to the engine and near the exhaust. Does this mean the supercharger now has a hot air intake?
To find out, I'm using a temperature datalogger to monitor four air temperature positions on the car. I'll record temperature at the very front of the car, the front of the air intake, the back of the air intake (near the exhaust), and the top of the engine. And while the effects of warm air going through the intake are mitigated with an intercooler, it's still beneficial to introduce air as cold as possible into the intake. So just how hot is the intake air? Hit the link to find out!
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They say don't text and drive, nothing about measuring different temperatures around your car and driving.
Those High tech zip ties though👌
Haha, I was thinking if I ended up getting pulled over (on a straight road in the middle of no where), I could probably intrigue them enough with the data that they'd let me go. But maybe not everyone thinks it's all that cool haha.
Engineering Explained Just use the "It's for science" excuse. Then proceed to teach them about their tires and how they should think more before buying them.
just what I thinking too
Ziptie life!
Anton Zuykov they're even reusable
I would love to build a heat shield for the car and see what it does to these numbers. Then dyno with and with out the shield just to see if it REALLY matters. It matters in theory but will real world numbers show that too?
It’s a great question! And looking back, I think it’s more important to find a way to draw air that hasn’t passed through the radiator (like how stock airboxes pull from the front). But yeah, would be interesting to test!
Dyno with the hood closed right? Right!
I believe the rule of thumb is every 10C is 5%. that's the rule for aircraft engines, should be close for cars as well. Should build a duct around the rad to funnel air directly onto the filter, like a stock Subaru air box.
Jason and Charles, you surprise me. After the difference of the heat wrap on the white wookie build for intake temps, even if it didn't make a discernible "butt dyno" difference, I'd think you'd for sure want to heat protect that air filter...but then again, the white wookie had much higher temps, and it didn't seem to make a performance difference. On further thought, I can see how you too might guess that it wouldn't make a difference. I've tested intake temperature changes extensively if anyone wants to check it out. A lot of my testing is off camera and I share the results. I screen shot my live data along the way to "prove" the testing.
Great comment Paul. Every 10C is 5% of what though? I'm guessing power, but I didn't want to assume. I've seen Mitsubishi, Toyota, Chevy, all have air rams on this model or that, which is cool for cold air, you'd think, but then they usually have a huge resonator on the air intake hang close to the exhaust or something. I really think most "cold air intakes" are fake. Most of the time I believe they're legit, it's over when I have to take the intake off for a repair and I can see how a bunch of hot air is engineered in again.
Maybe I'm too hard on them, maybe it needs to be tested if air resonator tubes near heat sources really impact cold air efficiency. (1 example of many cold air intakes being "faked")
We learn: The faster you drive the cooler is your engine. So driving fast is more safe.
Good job!
The rpm increase at higher speeds negates the wear and tear saved from a cooler engine. That , and engines are optimally efficient when they are hot, just the air going in needs to be cooled
taydrum/anton, guys hear me out right,,,,, it was a joke
@@Taydrum NO IT doesnt need to be cooled.!
Lots of questions/comments about the intercooler. Yes, the intercooler will help bring temps down after the supercharger compresses the air, however starting with colder air means the air entering the intercooler will be colder, and thus the air exiting the intercooler will be colder as well.
Edit - Additional note: The air temps are generally high because the air is heated by the radiator prior to being drawn in. I assumed there would be a bit more "fresh" air than there actually is. When I started driving (before the thermostat had cracked, meaning there was no coolant flow to the radiator) the intake temps remained nearly the same at the front and back of the intake versus ambient. As the engine warmed up and the radiator cracked, temperatures started to rise. This implies that the proper solution would be to have the intake pull air that has not passed through the radiator, whether that means moving the intake forward, or creating a box around it that pulls in air from the front. Looking back, I don't think a heat shield would do all that much for intake temps. Perhaps a small benefit for the back of the intake closest to the exhaust.
And if anyone's interested in going back to the Acura Integra days, I have a video testing if cold air intakes actually work: czcams.com/video/llKZdUyoz14/video.html If you want to know the science behind why they work, here's a video on the math: czcams.com/video/Hiod1c2Py70/video.html
Can you slip the probe under silicon coupler into the intake track at filter, before and after intercooler (and control on bumper)? Then monitor how the intercooler handles differences in intake temp. Supercharger will increase air temp by around 7.5*C per psi. Intercooler can’t drop temp below ambient anyway.
So if ambient is 20, intake at filter is 40, intercooler inlet is 85 and intercooler outlet is 50 and 60 after intake manifold heats. Can you gain much hp by dropping intake at filter to 30? Probably not. But it’s a fun project. Heat shield would look cool. And maybe one of those J’s Racing hoods with vents and bump for intake scoop in J’s Racing bumper.
you also get hot air from the radiator thus its probably best to reroute the air intake, also if located properly you could get some ramair charging effect
Have you considered wrapping the exhaust manifold in that DEI wrap? I know it greatly reduced underhand temps on my old second gen xb after installing an aftermarket exhaust manifold. Might be worth a shot!
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The question is how long I need to return from hard driving temperature to previous test temperature ( 129 kph )
Mix of shield/ducting and exhaust wrap.
turn 90 degrees up
cut hole in hood
cold air
The perfect aesthetic solution.
Wow. There is really no better answer than that, I'd think.
And if it ever rains...
Ricer Miata can build you a snorkler.
Corrosion37
While you're at it, don't go half ass, engineer a proper NACA duct.
The difference between the intake measurements is staggering! Glad I placed a heatshield behind mine.
mike tong one would have to wonder though, after a long spirited driving session that piece of metal would turn into a radiator of sorts because it doesn't reflect Heat constantly, eventually everything under the hood will get hot so by routing the air intake piping out of the engine bay area he will always get the coldest air
I've seen Formula SAE simply sandwich fiberglass cloth/mesh between two pieces of metal to act as heat shields.
My 09 Hyundai has a manifold heat shield like that and it really works, I can touch it without even a hint of getting burned. My old Nissan's simple stamped-steel one might as well be a skillet 🤣
It is still shielding heat. It is going to be less than direct exposure to the exhaust radiation. Especially with air flow under the hood.
More piping, less pressure, less air mass.
Yeah. New cars put shielding on about everything sometimes. Chevy and Ford went nuts with it on their sedans. I think a little more on their trucks. I think they're working on better sensor long term reliability as well.
I remember back around 2001 there was a shop selling a "cold air" intake that was piped from the throttle body to the front air inlet in the bumper resembling an intercooler. All these years I have always remained curious about the design and your video has reawoken that curiosity.
Thanks for being scientific about the cold-air intake myth. Ive tried to explain this for years to my buddies who think taking the factory airbox off (alone) makes them faster. No, it makes it louder which FEELS faster, and draws hot air from the exhaust manifold.
If you end up going OEM style and sucking the air from the side of the fender, do a dyno test before and after the change to see how much "hot air intake" looses in actual HP.
Man I love S2000's. The day I own one is the day I become extremely happy.
Would you ever consider uploading a video entirely dedicated to just a cruise in the S2000? Some pulls here and there; hearing that sweet sweet vtec crossover.
The clouds look so nice at the end
It's great to see some actual data about this topic! Oh, belated appreciation for the the dyno and road comparisons about the supercharger in previous videos.
I would love for you to continue this series (measuring temps and trying to perhaps lower intake temps)!! Also perhaps try temp reading in the OEM air box and the OEM air box + snorkel if that's feasible in your SC setup. I've considered the snorkel but wondered how effective it is.
It would also be cool if you did some comparative 2nd gear pulls - say 30-60 (or redline) with temp readings and then if you think you develop a better (cooler) Intake setup do the same 30-60 2nd gear pull (i'm suggesting a second gear pull only to eliminate the 1-2 shift or any other shift as a variable in the acceleration times).
Thanks for another great video!! Keep em coming!!
The moment I see this open air intake in Jason's supercharging the s2000 video, I was like did they really left this intake like this? I couldn't believe it. And I recently come across this video which proved my point.
dude the S2K turned out great. Great info on the IAT test.
can anyone even hear the supercharger? i'm not sure if you're getting much power gain if your honda doesn't sound like a leaf blower
keep up the great vids!
centrifugal supercharger doesn't sound the same as a twin screw .
well it has been dynoed, he got a resonable increase ;-) and it is also explained in that video what he could have done to make more power :-)
lasagna bloke sounds more like your mom screaming on the bed😂 jk
I thought it sounded more like a limb shredder.
Although the sound is important for the power gained the optic is even more important. I don't see any racing stripes on the car so that's a lot of wasted power right there...
How is this guy doing math while talking and driving and looking at the meter. *You Win*
Thanks for doing this in celsius, i love you so much
Very informative. Always wanted to do something like this. Thanks for sharing your data.
I love how you don’t guess, you find out for sure
Great work man
It would be great to see a follow-up video on the theoretical power differences depending on intake air temp and then compare actual figures before and after CAI mod. Awesome stuff as always!
Interesting, I havent seen anyone actually measure the difference before, thanks for showing.
Thank you for Celsius.
Indeed, the correct global measurement of temperature.
Fahrenheit is more precise
Of course it is... checkout all the Nuclear power stations that use Fahrenheit to measure coolant temperatures...... Oh wait...... Even US Power stations use C.
jacob stienecker The decimal exists for a reason.
jacob stienecker you can just use decimals to be more precise
Now you have to do the calculations to approximate performance gains from relocation. Relocate, test again. Great video! Good work.
wow you drove all the way to Mexico just to do that 80mph run, true dedication to the channel!
On my data logs, a cold air intake gets about 3 degrees above ambient temperature under load. The stock box, under load, is about 10-15 degrees above ambient. The HOT air intake is about 20 degrees warmer than ambient under full load sounds about right.
I'm surprised you are not data logging from the ECU, especially after getting tuning software. Much easier to data log.
He'd still need a thermocouple for the control and finding out where there are differences. Just data logging IAT would work i guess if you had all the different intakes and wanted to test between them.
The temp difference will be way higher on forced induction. Compressing air heats it up considerably
relocating your air intake is the best solution .i did this on my 3.0 turbo bmw and it helps keep the power constant and reliable on track days
If I may make a suggestion, I'd love to hear engine performance and advanced engine performance explained. Freakin love your videos man.
Great video! Straight to the point, and driven by data, not opinion.
Other "experimenters" looking to perform a similar test would most likely do it stationary, maybe with a fan to simulate airflow, all in the name of consistency and control over variables, but I def. prefer how you did it here. Actual real-world testing with real-world results.
Man, I love your videos and how you easily explain stuff.
I'm from Brazil, and since not everyone around here speaks English, it's a shame that I can't share the videos with most of my friends.
Wouldn't you be interested in me making some Portuguese subtitles for you? I believe you would have a lot of subscribers from here if more people could understand your videos.
BTW, I'm also a mechanical engineer and gearhead!
That’s really cool, I always learned something new with him! Keep it up, you will make the world great!
I'm glad you put a nail in the myth of "cold air" intakes that aren't. lol What is needed is a plenum that routs the air in the front of the car right to the air cleaner. Oh, yea just like the stock setup. lol Thanks!
I love these videos! Lol when I use the info I’ve learned to go talk about cars it makes me sound smart 😂😂😂😂
Haven’t been interested in your videos for a while, couldn’t relate. But this video was awesome!
This was a good experiment. I did something similar about 5 years ago with my 2500HD truck. I have a ScanGauge II hooked up to my OBDII port and mounted above my rearview mirror. After swapping out the stock air cleaner box with a K&N FIPK, I noticed the difference between the outside temperature and IAT while cruising on the highway was 20-35 degrees Fahrenheit on a mild summer day. When the IAT jumped to 100+ degrees (i.e. city driving, stop-and-go traffic), the performance dropped significantly (as expected) so I decided to wrap my “hot air intake” heat shield with heat wrap and installed an Volant air scoop with Lowes downspout flexible tubing which directed air from the tow hook opening in the front valence up behind the headlight and pointed it directly at the cone air filter. Using this method, I now see about 7 degrees F difference consistently between outside air temperature and IAT during a typical summer day. Instead of relocating the intake, maybe you can use a similar approach.
Back when I was 18 going to school to be a MECHANIC I ENGINEERED a cold air intake out of PVC pipe. The intake worked great and costed very little. The short ram intake kits you can buy for cheap are junk. Get a cold air intake (which most modern cars have from the factory) or do not mod it at all.
You are my hero! I've wondered this forever.
I think it's cool that you're taking a scientific approach, instead of just making assumptions. I look forward to seeing your solution to the "hot air intake" problem.
Cool video! Maybe you've done a video already but what kind of gains can you expect if you were to draw in that cooler air?
This explains why a PO of my Turbo Supra fashioned a cold-air intake "box" using a mid-eighties Nissan turbo intake atop the engine hood and some sheet metal around the intake. It looks cool, if also a bit tacky, now I know that it probably works. Sweet. Thanks.
When i installed my SC i notice the same problem my fast solution was re install the CAI from spoon that attaches to the original air box. The temperature decreased 10°C in the same conditions. You should test it with thoose TC's to see the real difference because i compared only with ambient temperature and the original IAT. All the best keep up ;)
The concept is simple. No matter what process is happening in your intake, cooler air is better and will make more power.
Take a cup of room temp water and a cup of hot water and put it in the fridge for 15 minutes. They both go through the same process, but one will come out cooler than the other because it started cooler than the other.
Also interesting that people will not argue that cold weather makes more power, but also assume pulling cooler air does nothing when it's going through a compressor.
Granted it might not be worth the extra $300 for an intake with a box/heatshield to get 5-10hp, but the power gains and efficiency improvements will be there.
Cool video, cool report. Love the thermocouple/digital meter hook up, all action recorded by the GoPros; however, one constructive criticism: you should be able to connect all those inputs to a laptop while keeping your eyes on the road. I know, I know, you are in the middle of nowhere, so far away from everyday traffic, I am pretty sure so far out, mosquitos don’t go there no more . But with a laptop you can examine the info afterwards while enjoying a cup of your favorite fresh brew. You are an engineer, and I don’t want to come across as a Star Trek “Too many captains, not enough engineers” type of commentator. No texting and driving, no thermocoupling and driving :) Again, thanks for the video. Be safe and be blessed!
A very simple and effective solution is to place in front of the radiator and behind the bumper (at the ambient temp. thermocouple), a flexible aluminum duct all the way to the filter. 7-8cm diameter is more than enough. You can also paint it black.
Fantastic vid! Facinating results
Very interesting... nice to see all the data points.
Bro !!!! one of the best videos yet. Try a heat shield, then a heat shield with gold tape(see if that myth works), and for the finally a fenderwell intake. I would love to see the results. I look forward to your next video
Look at that yellow beauty. She's so happy to be on the vid! ^^
Jason. Just relocate the horn/prop rod etc. and use a diamond hole saw to cut a path through the fender well and route silicone hose/bends coupled with short sections of metal tubing. Put the air filter in the inner fender and take advantage of the high pressure/fresh air that exists anywhere in front of the core support/inner fenders....if there's room. Don't be afraid if you cut structural sections. Just weld in a heavy metal ring to put the strength back. Its too late. Your S2000 is a Character on Engineering Explained. You've got 1.7 Million fans. I'm sure ANY high performance company will be glad to provide you with the parts and tech to do anything you want with the car. We can't wait for more and maybe in few years the Yellow S2000 will be putting 1000hp to the wheels! We can't wait!!!Once you play with some pulleys there will be no turning back. You have only cracked open that blower's power potential.
The intake is behind the radiator in the airflow path, it's a hot air intake. Anything behind the radiator should be considered "hot" relative to ambient just due to the fact that now airflow is cut significantly while having a heat shield is good and will help, moving the filter into a position of direct airflow will result in much cooler temps, always remember that the bumper and most of the front of the car are meant to cut through the air and direct it to the radiator.
Some time ago i had a ford escort. There was a strip of plastic that added about 2 inches below the radiator, as stretched the width of the radiator. It was held in place with 2 plastic fasteners, one of which broke, causing the strip to hang from one side of the car, and drag on the street. i took the piece intending to get it replaced by the dealer. It didn't cause any problems while driving around the city, but when on the highway, the engine started to overheat. I pulled over and replaced the plastic strip, fastening it back with another fastener from the trunk, which was pretty much the same as the piece that has been still holding the strip in place. Returned to the highway, and the overheating stopped. My thought is that without the strip, there was enough buffeting air to interfere with the flow through the radiator at highway speeds to keep the radiator from properly cooling the car. Since the air flowing through the radiator is being heated, i would imagine most of the air in the engine compartment would be substantially warmer than ambient air. So would expect that the air entering the supercharger might be warmer than you expected.
Of course the lesson i learned is that strips of plastic hanging under a car engine that seem superfluous might be there for a good reason.
In the stone age of aircraft engine development engineers used blast tubes (usually corrugated metal - not unlike clothes dryer exhaust ducts) to direct ambient air (aft of the props...) to cool engine components, typically generators/alternators. It seems to me this would be the cheapest (by far) and most effective way to route ambient air to the intake.
Facing the front of the engine: A 50-100 mm h X max open grill width terminated on one or both sides with outlet(s) sized to fit corrugated aluminum flex duct. Route as necessary and terminate at the intake with a 50 mm clearance around the filter.
For more fun with t-cups measure the before and after temps at the intake manifold as well. Back of envelope calculations show a possible .75-1.5% increase in HP. Thanks for the excellent video!
Yep, I see guys online installing "hot" intakes all the time. The high flow filter will help compared to stock, but true cold air intakes would work much better.
Man, your car sounds fantastic
Good job, Jason ...
Another very interesting video ...
Lot of tecnology inside ... Great
Interesting test. I think the real take away here is, even with a box style intake, the placement and effect of the rear end of the intake tube is what really makes a difference.
Very interesting video
i love me some hot air intakes, best way to maximize the decrease in air density.
The effect of a heat shield should be easiest to test, just tape in some cardboard behind the intake as a temporary air box/wall.
Testing a relocation would cost more, but I am interested in seeing how both affect the IAT, so if you're willing to try. I will certainly watch.
Since you have a supercharged engine, I think it would be interesting to measure also the temperature at the intake manifold, before and after any mods :)
You could always take a tip from the NHRA Pro Stock guys and add a snorkel scoop! Your vehicle's overall height may increase slightly, but underhood temperatures should drop dramatically.
Very informative content thank you again for your awesome videos
Man... You are doing a brilliant job !!! Many Thanks for the video !!!
Wow, definitely significant figures. Make sure you include pressure drop readings as you play with rerouting your intake.
39.1 degrees Celsius? Like a BORG SHIP? The Borg? They're HERE??!?!?!?! OH GOD RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!!!!
This was awesome I would love to nerd out with you and humble man lol
That filter is already very close to an ideal cold air source, that hole in the inner fender. Just extend the intake hose so filter resides in that semi round fender opening.
This avoids the hydrolock pitfalls of locating intake in grill area, yet still provides much cooler air.
Amazing video. Great idea. Interesting results
Great video. You just saved me some time doing the same test. Will be relocating my air filter to the front of my car.
It would be cool to see the temperature in the intake as well, and you can probably get that without rigging any extra wiring (would have made for a fun behind the scenes video, come to think of it) by using an OBD2 scanner.
While starting with colder air before the intercooler is indeed better, you get diminishing returns as your starting air gets colder, and that getting that intake temp post intercooler would let you know how effective any cooling solution you implement is.
Another idea to add is to check the flow of air at the front and back of the intake to get an idea of HOW MUCH air is going in from the “hot” and “cold” side of the intake.
great vid, cold air intakes were so much more important for carbs and points, todays engines compensate for temperatures, but the colder the better
Awesome video, I love your approach to modding your car.
Love you have displayed temperature in degrees Science. Thank you.
i did that with my 2003 expedition. aftermarket CAI with no heatshield. I used a scan tool to monitor air intake temperature (reading the MAF) and i have a temp gage on the front grill. I noted a significant difference between ambient and intake temps. Then i build a heat shield from a plastic trash can sourced from Home Depot (no kidding). scavenged some weather stripping from a junk yard to form a seal around the open top of the can (the can was laid out horizontally with the intake tube coming in through the bottom of the can). The hood insulation closed off the box. The only open area was directly in front toward the various openings along the radiator, light fixture, and down below. I re-scaned temps at highway speed and noticed that my intake temps were almost exactly the same as ambient. At idle, intake was warmer, but not like it was without the can. So getting a CAI aftermarket with a 'box' is better than just an open intake, at least from my limited experiments.
Most amazing thing about this video was a VTEC engine that wasn't all riced out and actually sounded.... good.
I think the thermocouple on the rear of the intake air filter is probably reading radiant heat from the engine and manifolds rather than strictly the intake air temperature acquired through air convection past the thermocouple.
Which is to say that your heat shield should help reduce the heat, but if you're going to spend time and effort on it, then consider doing something like Subaru does with their turbos and put the air filter into a pod that matches up with the hood. Cut a louvered grill pattern into the hood and deal with routing rainwater out of the pod. You might gain a PSI with a bit of ram air at the front of the hood, as well.
The best solution is an airbox with a snorkel. Like on most standard systems. Putting the intake down low is asking for trouble when it rains, using a ram-air style extension hose is just as risky, cant beat an airbox with snorkel
Ideas: Compare the intake air temp sensor (the one used by the ECU located in your intake piping or manifold) to the ambient temps. With the intercooler, your hot air intake might not matter. If it's still more than a little bit above ambient you should be able to significantly lower intake temps by just adding a heat shield (ideally with an air gap) behind the air filter. You could also trim the front hood insulation to give the air a path into the engine bay.
BRILLIANT VIDEO Jason! I have wanted to do this for YEARS! If you look at the reduction in air mass due to the temperature (simplified assuming intake is purely volumetric), using Charles' law it's still 290K/320K = about -10% theoretically weaker mixture than it need be. Wouldn't it be great if you could actually get enough air to EXPAND and thereby cool below ambient temperature and nevertheless fill the compressor at atmospheric pressure. NACA oversized intake and insulated expansion chamber?! Your compressor will be heating up the air further, so IMHO you still need to measure the air temp. after the compressor. What do you think? All the best Rob in Switzerland.
Awesome. Your videos are extremely informative. and you have my support.
As i see it theres a third option you missed,
Option 1, move the intake to where cooler air is, I can see the sense in that, assuming you keep it safe from rain etc, having a ducted box would work... but see also 3.
Option 2, sheild it from heat, doesnt make as much sense to me as per your radiation vs convection discussion, it may be subject to radiation heat and youd potentially be limiting the flow of cooler air into that space...
Thus option 3, attempt to vent out the hot air out of that space, such as with a small rear facing vent over the pod, or the old racers trick of putting a couple of washers in the back of the bonnet hinges.
I suggest routing the intake into the cabin and right in front of an A/C vent. Turn the A/C on high and now you’ll be chilling a cool 50 more hp-easy.
Another great video! I wonder if there would be a significant difference if you put the thermocouple inside the air filter so that you're just measuring the air coming in, rather than possible radiant heat hitting those sensors and skewing your results.
Hey,EE.
I think the video isnt quite complete since you didn't talk about how air density changes as a function of temperature. I agree those temperature differences were greater than my expectations, Though I think talking about the change in air density would help give perspective to your data.
Love your vids!
I just followed a link here. from the Dodge
Demon cooling/refrigerant video. Jason,
it seems that a cooler intake charge,
especially going into a supercharger,
just "might be" beneficial.
Oh, GREAT channel! Been watching for
quite some time.
steve
Thanks Steve!
Super interesting!! Thanks for the video
The location of the air intake in relation to the radiator will also be responsible for the high temperature differential you measured. Even while driving, the cool air will pick up heat as it passes through the radiator. An enclosed air box with piping closer to the front of the vehicle, or relocating the filter will have a greater effect than just adding an exhaust heat shield to the existing setup.
RE: "Need" for hot air.
Had an '86 Dodge D50 with carb. Decided that the arm air stove off the exhaust manifold was bad because coer air is better, right? It was fine in Texas but when I fiannly came home to the Great Northwest, temps were lower and the carb would ice up. OOPS! Fortunately I still had all of the parts and put it back together. Yeah, they put that stuff on there for a reason, just like intake air comes from the outside from the factory.
So my take-away from this is that sometimes you need warm air, but in modern engines cool is what the really cool kids do.
Now I prefer diesels so you can keep your silly spark plugs and carbs. :)
I can assure you that a closed intake box with a snorkel will significantly reduce IAT's. Tested this with data logs myself many times.
Ive found mimiking Hondas factoy intake setup, is the best way to get any form of "gains" from intalling an aftermarket intake. Honda goes through very meticulus process to make sure the best airflow goes into their engines. Usually the best place to put it is where the original baffling was.
A very scientific but still interesting approach to modding an S2. I still think it would be cool if you get the car pro detailed.
Glad i got the cai for mine
Without IATs this info isn't all that useful. I mean really who would have thought the area closer to the 200 degree engine would be hotter! Mind blowing.
Something to consider, that additional piping will decrease your pressure by way of Bernoulli principal. It appears to me, the best you should do is construct shrouding to block the rest of your engine from your filter.
I was very glad to see you do this video. Turned out about how I expected. But now my suspicions are confirmed. This is why I am still running my factory air intake. I would like to know if more (volume) hotter air still = more power over stock restricted intake.
It seems like some people think that colder air doesn’t really help a supercharger/intercooler setup.
But since a supercharger (be it roots type or centrifugal) has a fixed rotating speed for any given RPM, it effectively ingest a fixed amount of air for any given RPM. If this air is hotter in the first place, it is less dense and thus contains less oxygen molecules. However efficient your intercooler is, the system ingested less oxygen molecules, and power potential is reduced.
Modern turbochargers on the other hand often compensate hotter/lower density air sensed by the MAF by letting the turbine spool faster ans thus produce more pressure. Superchargers can’t do that.
The hardest for hood modification wise doing an intake opening and air box under the right side of the hood would be the easiest for running an air tube. Otherwise you have to go under and around the radiator and intercooler, etc. Not sure if you even like that look but it just seemed the most simple solution.
Great video. Looking forward to see the benefits when you apply an air router for the filter.
I have a similar setup and i measure intake temps post intercooler. When the car is moving at freeway speeds the temperature is 10 to 20 Celsius above ambient.
At the track when the car is waiting in line the post intercooler intake temperatures can reach 50°C above ambient!! The engine bay keeps the heat in and even the intercooler fluid gets hot without air blowing across the intercooler. In a way they become inter heaters if the car is parked for too long.
Nice video . Try to cordon off the air intake with a shield ...similar to the ones sold by k&n . Also place an air scoop/funnel inside the grill and direct the cold air with a hose from inside the bumper and into the cordoned off space. ( something similar to a cold air intake) . I am from India and the disadvantage of running a cold air intake is during rainy seasons , there are high chances of water ingress which can cause hydrostatic lock . With the setup i've mentioned earlier , you can get a cold air feed and at the same time a much lesser chance of water ingress.