2002 Honda Accord clutch and transmission mother load video!!!
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 07. 2020
- - - - - - - - -
EDIT: Time: 22:37: I'm referencing the bell housing bolt in the middle of the light, not the smaller bolt in the black metal strap. It's in the middle of the triangle made by the light.
EDIT: Time: 23:17: Take THAT bolt out, not the one in the freeze frame. I had to retap the hole in 23:17 because pulling the bell housing out with it attached bent the strap and pulled the bolt slightly. It was super annoying. Just undo the bolt and you'll be home free.
- - - - - - - -
Replacing the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear main seal, master cylinder, and slave cylinder on my 2002 Honda Accord with nearly 200k miles. This was the 2nd time I’ve replaced my clutch, but my first time.
Making CZcams videos is hard yo. Despite compiling over 130 iPhone videos, I still lost one at the end. Sorry! Just go back to the beginning and re-watch the basic stuff. This will get you where you need to go.
I elected to do this to save money. I was an idiot for thinking it would take me one day. I ran into several problems - all for things I didn’t expect, while the big stuff that scared me was relatively easy. Get the right tools and this will take you much less time than me. Now that I’ve done this once, I could do this all again in probably 8 hours, but if you think you’ll do that the first time? Nope.
Get help lowering and raising transmission for sure if you’re uncomfortable. It was not the weight of it, but the unbalanced weight while lifting it. It’s not a bench press, it’s weird. Just be safe.
For parts, there are so many possibilities. I went to Advance and bought everything, only to realize that RockAuto.com has things much cheaper, but there’s a myriad of variety too.
Here’s what I bought:
CARQUEST New Clutch Set: Part # MU47701-1
CARQUEST New Flywheel: Part No. 50-216
Felpro Rear Main Bearing Seal Set: Part No. BS 40430
CARQUEST TECHnovation Clutch Master Cylinder: Part No. 350110
CARQUEST TECHnovation Clutch Slave Cylinder: Part No. 360075
I would also strongly recommend 3 ton jack stands, a 3 ton low-profile floor jack, a creeper (the cushy headrest ain’t that bad), a ½” breaker bar, a real socket set, a 12-point socket set, u-joint adapters, some extensions, stubby flex-head ratcheting sockets, magnetic nut drive, crows foot set, a good light, and patience; for real, you’re going to need it.
But as South Main Auto says: “if I can do it, you can do it”.
MUSIC from Soundcloud "to use commercially" tracks:
- Summer by Ventura
- Chill Day by Lakey Inspired
- Gasoline by Prashan Subasinghe - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Huge Thanks, Knew absolutely nothing about my transmission coming into this, and I now have replaced all the same parts you did, and my car hasn’t felt so good since I had it, and I was able to do it all using only this video, big thanks again.
Awesome! Mission accomplished brother.
How many new curse words did you invent? Any time I’m trying to break loose a rusted fastener, my wife can hear me scream, “come on you little motherf*cker”! If she hears me utter the phrase, “let me introduce you to my lit-el friend (in the voice of Tony Montana)”, she knows I’m setting up the acetylene torch. Mechanics are responsible for the formation of every curse word.
Absolutely wonderful video. I’m going to use this info to remove a manual transmission from the junkyard for my currently automatic accord.
I’m not sure that will work. Automatic and manual transmissions are different. I say I’m not sure that will work because I don’t know what you’re trying to swap out. Make sure you “measure twice and cut once”. Good luck!
Durk, great video! If all repair tutorials were this professional and cleanly executed, it might make a lot of repair shops go out of business!!!
Thanks Michael!
great video. Im going to do this job next weekend and this video will be invaluable to me and make my life easier. I definitely see where the parts where chrisfix has influenced you haha (the transmission bolt wrench trick, brake cleaning the fly wheel and pressure plate, marking the torqued bolts with sharpie, changing gloves, input shaft jiggle, etc)
Lol. I’m a lot like Chris Fix in that regards. I’m a little OCD. That’s why I love watching him. I have watched so many of his videos and they call me, lol. Good luck!
Nice video man I appreciate the information I really do because I'm actually doing the same exact work ony car right now between me and my brother and his tools and your video thanks nice Job!
Glad I could help!
Phenomenal video !
Thank you!
Thanks, nice video. I did clutch on my CRV 2005 140k miles. Put the transsmition on is very tricky. I had teeth on teeth on the central axel to crank shaft and also on the wheel drive shaft. Then I little turned with the rear hub and everythink click together. Ohh, horrible job!
Yep, it's a beast of a job!
I wish mysterious hands from the sky would appear and help me like that! ;o)
Great information, thanks for sharing! I appreciate your thorough work too.
I will admit I had to cringe a little whenever the torque breaker came out. But I will eventually get over it with extensive therapy, lol
Thanks again
Lol, many hands make light work! Yeah, I cringe when I watch myself break tools too! Automotive DIY has a steep learning curve:)
Great job bro.
Thank you!
Ooo wee this looks like fun 🥲
I picked up an 01 accord ex manual for free the past owner said that the mechanic told him it needed a clutch so he bought it and never installed it because he said the car was being a headache so he just gave it to me for free I stumbled into him by try to sell a product lol he told me the car turned on but didn't go into gear so I took the offer and started investigating and found out the shifter cables were torn replaced that also had a cracked manifold replaced that all four engine mounts were bad so while I was installing the shifter cables and manifolds I went ahead and just put the engine mounts and hoped it ran so I started it and well it ran but It seems the clutch may be bad and thought on replacing while I'm at it but I've taken approx 1 week lol since I'm new to this so this looks like a lot more work and might as well get the new slave cylinder and master cylinder wish me luck and thank you for the Vid.
Good luck!
Nice video! Did you end up using the paper gaskets for the rear main seal housing gasket plus the rtv? Would you recommend I change the rear main seal gaskets as well or just the rear main seal itself?
@Moi Hernandez, yes. Checking out 28:30 in the video. If you replace the rear main seal then you have to do the gaskets. That said, if your rear main seal isn’t leaking, leave it alone. You just run the risk of it leaking later and asking yourself, why didn’t I change it when I was there?!
@35:25, are any of the fasteners in the project torque to yield (one time use only fasteners) that need to be replaced when reinstalling?
No, but you do need to reapply threadlocker where I’ve pointed it out. Even if I didn’t point it out and you feel threadlocker is appropriate, go for it. Just know what color is what and don’t “lock” something you shouldn’t. :)
@@durk1980 thank you! I’ve only used red thread lock on one occasion. It was when I got tired of a screw backing out of the faucet handle on an outdoor water faucet.
@durk1980 can u shed some light in the axle problem I have a 98 which is the same as this one my transmission seems to be slipping also what was wrong with the axles to make it slip don't want to change clutch if it's axles in mine
My CV axles were simply “dry”. The grease was no longer grease in the boots. I think it was a combo of clutch being worn down, and cv axles not being “smooth”. Short of major issues, there’s really nothing else it could be. I ended up replacing my wheel bearings as well, from sounds made while turning. Everything sort of fell apart in one time period, but after 18 years of hard driving, that’s pretty good IMO. I made videos of all that. Check out the main channel and you’ll see them. Good luck!
If I'm not looking to replace the slave cylinder, only clutch, flywheel etc, do I still need to undo all the stuff from the top of the engine bay?
Yep. Everything for the clutch was in sequential order. Once I started slave cylinder, you can ignore all of that. Very detailed amount of steps still, but take your time and it’s definitely possible. Good luck!
@@durk1980 thanks for the reply, mate.
do i have to drop the subframe and everything just to replace the throwout components?
I don’t know, since I only did it my way, but I assume so yes. The bell housing doesn’t just drop down, and there’s a lot connected as you see in the video. Good luck!
I have a question I have one that I just bought at 115k there is vibration in the clutch when pressed soon as it's driving u can here like a little whine. Any info helps. Thinking it is Throughout bearing
Tough to say. Could be throwout bearing, could be clutch, or it could be the flywheel. If you hear a whining, something is grinding would be my guess. Truly, it’s a hard job, but not so hard that you can’t do it. If you have 115k miles, it’s likely the original clutch. If you get the whole kit that I did, just be careful not to change the rear main seal if it’s not leaking. That one for sure is one where “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it”.
If you watch the video again, when I show the inside of the bell housing, just realize there are only so many moving parts. Something along the line has failed. You can start with a cheap part, but in order to get that bearing, the bell housing has to be separated and dropped anyway, at which point, you might as well replace it all. Good luck!
31:56 Some say not to put any grease/oil on the OD of the seal then drive it in dry or else you may get a leak. How has this rear main seal performed since installed?
I sold I’m the car several months later, but it wasn’t leaking oil when I did. I will say I should’ve left it alone. Unless you see visible signs of leaking, leave it alone. That was nearly 200k miles old and going strong. Why replace it? The main reason is because you’re there and by the time you get that many layers deep, “you might as well”. For what it’s worth, I really did wipe away much of the excess. I’ve put that grease on several times in a video, and when watching it during post it does surprise me how much it looks like I flipped it on, when in reality I’m just coating the surface so it glides and doesn’t dry start mechanically. Good question though. If I were to do it again, I guess I wouldn’t put anything on just to compare, but I’ve never heard of it leaking because of that. Not saying it isn’t true though; just haven’t experienced it myself.
@@durk1980 Thanks for the reply. Here's where I was advised not to grease the OD czcams.com/video/vVDvEE_Hbm0/video.html I haven't seen anyone else do that either. I just replaced the rear seal on my '05 Element at 126,000 miles, not because it was leaking (in fact it was bone dry and perfect) but because I had dismantled that far in anyway and from past experience with the clutch on my '01 PT Cruiser, where I skipped that step, one month later the rear seal started leaking. It's preventative maintenance when you are working on older vehicles with over 100,000 miles. With this Honda though, I felt guilty about removing a part that was not faulty.
in doing this job ive lost order of the bolts for the bell housing (which ones go where) are the two on the top the same size and also i have the trans up and in but its not sliding in completely as it should any idea what i should do? or whats going on?
Hey there. First off, from what I recall, yes, the bell housing bolts are all the same size. I don’t recall putting them on my paper and saying “3rd bolt down” or anything like that. There is only one bell housing bolt. If it’s not fitting in the hole, you have the wrong bolt.
Regarding the trans not sliding in all the way, that’s a rough one. If I were you, and the bolts weren’t in, I’d just pull it back out and double check everything aligns. Hopefully you have a transmission jack, or a friend:) The advantage to pulling it out and retrying is you can be sure everything is as it should be before reinstalling. If the input shaft is aligned, and you used a clutch alignment tool, the dimensions align and there’s nothing to restrict the bell housing from properly seating. Maybe the clutch fork slipped or was otherwise in the way. Make sure there’s no wire or cable or part getting sandwiched either. Get help putting it back in. As you see in the video, I had my son top aide to spot me visually, and start threading the ones that thread opposite. That was really helpful!
Good luck!
@@durk1980 thank you! i ended up finishing it last night i have a few bolts + the trans mount in just to hold it and im going to head back in there tonight after work and button everything up i appreciate how helpful you were great video!
@@durk1980 normally i leave the bolts where the go by just threading them in a tad but ive been solo on this job so by the time im pulling the trans on top of myself there is shit everywhere on the patio lol😂
@Alpixed, I hear you. It’s always 3am when we’re finishing these, and you find yourself bench pressing a greasy, slippery, heavy chuck of metal above your head. That’s why I bought the transmission jack finally. Hopefully everything works out. Good call on slightly putting all bolts and fasteners back in so you don’t lose anything. Where possible, this is a great habit. Good luck man!
@Cooper Pierce
Cooper, I fat fingered this and removed your comment on YT accidentally. Through the app, I’m responding. Hoping it shows up. Check 29 min mark. The paper gasket is sandwiched by RTV. I had 3 in my kit as shown in the beginning. I personally don’t know if there are simply extras, but only one fit perfectly for me. You only need the one. Also, if the rear main seal isn’t leaking, don’t touch it. I know the temptation to replace is high, since you’re right there, but I found that the original one will keep on working. If you’ve already replaced it, all good. So did I obviously, and I liked the peace of mind knowing it was new. Good luck
Thank you sir they must be extra then just wasn't sure.
how did you keep your motor from falling if you took down the subframe?
You can see when I get to the clutch, and the camera is under the car, that it is indeed freely hanging there. I removed the transmission mount, and you have to put something under the bell housing at that point, and then of course once it’s separated from the rest of the transmission, it’s ready to be removed entirely. The engine, however, has its own engine mount, and that is what keeps it supported. I will say you’ll notice once I start taking off the pressure plate, that I have a block on top of my floor jack, supporting the other half of the bell housing. This was in order to not let it sway back-and-forth as I was loosening those bolts. It is supported, but if you were to push it down really hard from the top side, you would certainly feel a great amount of movement. As you start taking it apart, you’ll see when it starts to flex or barely move, but it is indeed, safe.
Other cars you can’t do that. You’ll see an engine hoist in my Mini Cooper videos. That engine is barely held in there to begin with.
The best 👌
Thanks!
i can’t get the trans back on the motor. any help appreciated
@Austinp718 I had a tough time myself. The video goes fast through that part, but if the input shaft is straight, it will go in. Trouble is, if it’s off even a tiny bit, it won’t start going in. Then, the splines have to align just right, which is why wiggling it back and forth a little bit is good too. I just did my sons Mini Cooper twice, due an error on my part the first time (left one flywheel bolt due to stripped hole I didn’t want to fix - thinking it would be fine). I did get the flywheel bolt in with a proper tap FYI. The first time I removed and reinstalled the bell housing by hand. Removing is not so bad. Putting it back in was very, very hard. The second time I bought a low profile transmission jack from Harbor Freight. It was helpful removing it, but invaluable putting it back. Get help to have another set of eyes guide you in. With an aligned input shaft, and no weight to bother you, it will go in much easier. Good luck!
Did u install a new pilot bearing on the new flywheel?
Go to 1:42 in the video. I did not, because it came with one already installed. Most new ones will have it already on there. Best to check though.
Im getting ready to do this job (minus hydraulics) on my 2000 accord. Why is it necessary to remove the axle on the driver's side, what will happen if i don't?
Disregard, i answered my own question.
All good! Hope you had success.
@@durk1980 I did, thanks... I used your video extensively throughout.
Thank you sir🫡
You’re welcome!
Thank you.
You’re welcome!
I have to swap out this Honda engine how long will it take and what will I need ?
Engine swap? Not sure. This was transmission. You’ll need. Strong engine hoist for sure, and all the necessary bolting/unbolting tools. Not a simple job, but not the hardest either. To pull an engine you have to disengage from transmission, hence the beast of a job. Good luck!
Hope it went well!
At 7:20 next to where your finger is . That pipe piece what is that for ? I put transmission fluid through there :0
@PDF how would I know if my transmission is low on mtf ? Seeing that they don’t come with a dip stick? I just bought the car so I’m new to this
@PDF thanks appreciatte it
@@midas5096 I refreshed my transmission oil on a 2.3 Honda Accord from 2001 (F23Z05 engine) a couple of days ago. I did this by draining the fluid through the drain plug like @PDF explained. Refilling through the fill plug was impossible for me. There were some bearings and gears inside the transmission. They were blocking the way and fluid was going way too slow. Because of that, I unplugged the reverse light sensor and refilled it from there. Took some time, but it worked! ETCG has a video doing this on his Acura Vigor. I used genuine Honda MTF fluid.
@Midas, @ PDF, PDF is right. It’s in the video (putting MTF in). This isn’t like engine oil. It won’t go bad every 3,500 miles. Once replaced/flushed you’re set for a long time: probably close to 75k miles if not more. Regarding breather valve, I’m not sure what happens when you pour MTF in it TBH. Once started, natural positive pressure will probably push some MTF out, so don’t be alarmed by that, but liquid of any kind is not supposed to come out, FYI.
Where is the ac pressure switch located ?
@Midas, I'm not sure. I don't recall doing anything with the ac, or having to mess with that switch. This make and model is all over Google in terms of exploded parts diagrams. Hopefully a quick internet search will provide the answer you need.
I got quoted a 1100 to do this. I’m debating if I should take on this by
Myself ..
Good question. Materials alone will be significantly cheaper, but labor, and any associated errors, will be all on you. That’s the risk with any DIY project. It was totally worth it for me. Just remember, if your rear main seal is not leaking, leave it alone. That was the one thing I regretted doing in my project. I didn’t hurt anything, but if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Good luck!
@@durk1980 I appreciate your response bro 🫡
to drop the axle out of the wheel hub you dont have yo hassle with the ball joint or anything just the upper control arm and the wheel hub should drop down and you will be able to then pry the axle out
Good suggestion, thanks!
Hey I have a question if u can reply I would appreciatte it
Sorry bro. Never saw this. Hope you got your question answered as it's been 2 years:) If not, feel free to leave another comment.
everything dismantled and now i cant get the trans to seperate
Probably dowel pins are corroded and you need to “wedge” a pry bar between block and tranny to “crack” the seal. Also you are probably missing a hidden bolt.
@@MrMpm3001 alright I'll keep digging appreciate it this has been an absolute nightmare
@@angelic420x5 I bet it turned out to be the 17mm under the t bracket. It’s a bih to see at a glance. Also you’re gonna have fun getting it back in and lined up too.
Hope you got it to separate! You may have seen in the video where I forgot that one bolt, but it was separating, just not 100% releasing, so I knew it was hung up somewhere. In your case, I’d put the bolts back, but not all the way, and try to take a pry bar as suggested and crack it loose. The bolts being in will prevent it from just falling. Safety first for sure. Hang in there man, this job sucks for sure, but you’ll get it…if you’re right there, you’ve already done the hard work. BTW, if the rear main seal isn’t leaking…leave it alone:)
@@durk1980 lol yeah my friend told me that to
@14:07. Everyman needs a few BFHs (Big Fuggin Hammers)
Yep!
Great job.. however you pulled the seal out in wrong direction
Yeah, it’s amazing how I missed something so simple, when it’s obvious it only goes in one way. Good catch:)
I was planning to do the same on my Honda Accord but Too late already donated it to npr
Lol
@17:22. Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it and I could move the world.
- Archimedes
I love it. It’s so true though! Simple physics indeed.
isnt a 2022 nice try did away with dizzy years ago
It was a 2002 Accord. Sorry, not understanding the comment. Sold that car a few years back!
Alot of Under explaining
Hopefully the 58 minutes makes up for it😊. I had hours of videos, but had to cut it down for a realistic summary. Good luck and ask a question if you have one.
video seems rushed, you're trying to even explain things in the description, you lost footage. I mean good work but try to be more organized and know what you are saying so you don't have to explain it 5 different way. Thank you for sharing much love!
I’ll keep that in mind. Thx