Rust Removal Classic Car Restoration
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2021
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Rust Removal Classic Car Restoration
This video goes over and shows the rust removal process on classic cars during the restoration process. Wray is anti sand blasting because it will warp the metal, and sand gets everywhere and you'll be sucking it out for weeks.
Since we have a lot of rust on our Scout 800 and the 1952 Cadillac Convertible we decided to show how quick and effective removing rust with simple solutions found at home depot.
We start by removing the paint with Klean Strip Premium Stripper paint remover. Once the surface is clean and we spot rust we dose the rust with naval jelly, dabbing it on with a brush. It's best to let it sit for a few hours until you see the jelly turn black. Take a putty knife and start scraping the rust off. It should remove most if not all the rust with the first application. If there is any rust left just apply another dose. Once the naval jelly is off we use concrete & metal prep from home depot with a coarse steel wool. When the surface is free of rust and paint, we typically use soapy water to remove the film left behind from the naval jelly. Now the surface is all set for you to start your restoration project.
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
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I have decades of experience removing rust.
Products like Evaporust and Rust 911 and great. They are very safe on surfaces other than steel. But they do cost a fair amount.
Molasses (1 part molasses, 9 parts water) is super cheap. But it's slow. Slow as molasses, actually!
One HUGE problem with molasses isn't the smell or mess.. it's the fact that it will eat aluminum or magnesium if you leave it in too long. I've seen it. Aluminum will turn to mush and magnesium will look like wormwood after too long in the solution. As a test, I've left steel in the solution for almost a year with no damage.
Any molasses seems to work no matter what some people say. I've used table molasses and cattle-feed grade molasses. Put a rusty part in a Mason jar full of the molasses mix and check it in 3 or 4 days. Clean it and put it back in if needed. Like I said.. it's as slow as molasses. But very hands-off and cheap.
I've also used reverse electrolysis, which does work but hardens the metal to the point of hydrogen embrittlement (or however you want to spell it).
Acids like vinegar are indiscriminate. They eat everything.. rust and good metal. Plus they need to be neutralized.
Each method has it's pros and cons. Even the dreaded sand blasting has pros.
All of these methods are like tools in your toolbox... one tool isn't the best for all jobs. Not even a hammer ;)
Love the videos, Wray.
How would you compare muriatic acid vs. Rust 911?
Just my opinion... they are vastly different, even though they will both remove rust.
Rust 911 (or other similar products) demands no special precautions and doesn't attack good metal. You can leave a piece of metal in the liquid for a very long time. There are very few concerns about safely disposing of the product once you are done with it.
Muriatic acid can really damage good metal, rubber, plastic, skin, eyes, lungs and anything metal in the shop if a container is left unopened. Disposal (properly) can be a pain unless you are on of those who just dump anything, anywhere.
Mind you, muriatic acid does an amazing job at stripping rust quickly. I don't keep any of it around. Too much concern and hassle for me.
Your mileage may vary...
@@Joe.Doucette That was the info I was seeking. Muriatic can damage good metal. I'm going to pick up some Rust911. Thanks.
@@GlennLaguna You're welcome.
Again.. that is my opinion. I prefer a safer way since if something bad will happen...it usually does to me.
Plus, I'm getting older and may forget for a couple of days that I left something in to dip. ;)
@@Joe.Doucette would you say that Evaporust is similar to Rust911? I just want the product to remove the rust, not go after the good metal.
Wray to go!!! Thank you for these!!
Great video with very useful info. Thanks.
Very useful thanks Wray.
Great info I took one of Wray's courses several years ago. With the knowledge learned I was able to make rear fenders for my xk140. Now working on an Etype and your rust removal techniques are really helpful.
Thanks Wray very helpful tutorial.
Always enjoyable & informative, thanks Wray.
I really like the video series on the Scout and Cadillac. I'm learning a lot from them so far. Thanks for posting them.
Love it! So helpful, thank you! My boat trailer needs the final touch after my attempted sandblasting.
I learn something every time I watch thanks
Fantastic! Thank you :)
wise wise words. thank you
Great series for rust removal I had to strip a couple louvered hood sides for a 36 Ford. I used paint stripped and a pressure washer to clean out the louvered area with great results.
I’ve found when using paint stripper covering area or part with cling film I’m from uk so I’m not sure what plastic food wrap is called over there or shrink wrap works too it makes it work better taking more layers off in one go
Very good information. I have been sanding the rust. I'm changing my ways.
Hello from Russia! Thank you, video is very helpful!
Good video, really gives me the confidence to do my Sprites myself, and now I know to use these products instead of grinders or sanders. I would love to see a video of a rotisserie restore using that bath method. If there isn't one, maybe I just give it a shot and see what happens.
THANKS for saving my vintage car. I assumed that sanding was going to be the best way to remove the old paint! THANKS Dan H
I have been using paint removers since I was 12 in 1963, no problems yet. Keep watching.
I've been using a rust remover call action gel it seems to work quite well. after I wash the phosphoric acid off with water I found water dispersant/degreaser in a spray can gets the residue off quite well and doesn't leave that haze or light rusted look on the panel after been doin it for years it works great.
These methods realy work .. yes takes time but worth it .. I had my.47 ford soda blasted by one of the best anywhere .. still ended up with warped panels .. I will not ever sand blast panels again ,costed me way more then just time to fix ... these methods are what my shop uses .. customers are impressed .
That English Wheel in the background with the gold legs is a sexy looking piece of machinery..
Love that Caddy. Can’t wait to see the end result!!!
I sell full scale plans fro that English wheel frame. They are on my website www.proshaper.com
I like your techniques for metal working and rust removal. Sandblasting warps the crap out of sheet metal.
I sandblasted a lot of body panels back in the 60s and 70s. I learned the hard way. I know how bad it can get. I also have had to deal with a lot of customers cars and students panels that were sandblasted. I absolutely hate sandblasting of any collector car panels.
"Paint will stick to butter" - I guees You have an evidence video to make...LOL
But, You're correct. The paint nowadays is awesome!
I tried the 911 recently, and it's just the best. I really could use the formula for it, since it is so expensive to get here in Norway. I guessI have too look through Your episodes, to find it? Also, a thumps up, to the phosphoric acid! Great stuff! Thanks for this educational video.
Great info Wray. I've been disappointed with all the paint strippers since they took out the methyl chloride... I've seen the MC available on amazon. I haven't tried to add it to a solution, but I'm guessing it would work. On the phosphoric acid... When I need to clean up heavy rust on a flat panel, I spray a few paper towels with it and lay them on the surface. That allows the acid time to work since it's not in a gel suspension.
you can use water after the phosphoric acid then use methylated spirits to dry the metal , no white stuff and neutralized !
I assume that you don't allow the metal to dry before washing it down with the metho. I use acetone to dry off the acid. Gives excellent results.
@@chrisbenn8691 yes , i wipe down as dry as a rag will do then finish with metho
As your doing little areas at a time, will rust return if you don't primer right away?
Do you have a different approach for vertical surfaces? I need to clean up some spots of rust in an engine bay. I am imagining globs of naval jelly and pools of Ospho on my shoes and garage floor.😧 Thanks for the videos and taking time to reply to comments.
Soak the paper towels and cover with taped on clear plastic, that will keep the naval jelly in place. It will take multiple applications.
This is a great video that gives a lot of great information. I do have a couple of questions.
1. How do you dispose of used Rust 911?
2. What is you opinion about using rust converter products in areas that you cannot rust removal products?
Thanks for your informational videos.
I'm not a rust converter advocate for a collector car. Rust 911 is non-toxic,non hazardous, and environmentally friendly.
I mean ok, the outer flat shell cleaning from rust is easy but how about inside the car, inside pillars, doors, rails and hard to reach areas? How is the scrubbing done in such areas?
For items that we can't easily access, we will usually submerge into Rust 911 solution. After 24 to 48 hours you will see how clean the metal becomes. We will just hose it down as best as you can and then dry it off with an air line and heat gun.
Wray, love the series! love the Cadillac! When using the naval jelly and sprays to de rust do you do anything special to make sure nothing gets under the hood or trunk braces? Do you use a heat gun to make sure it is dried out?
Some years ago a guy that did whole car dipping told me about chemicals leaching out of seams and ruining a paint job.
You can rinse with soapy water, then dry with a heat gun real fast.
Wray: You do need to try Molasses.I bet you love it! I have been using it for a few years. I have not had a lot of the problems other people on u tube have had. The only time is foams is when you are dipping cast iron. it can be skimmed off easy. I buy mine from TSC Tractor Supply co. Its $7.99 per gallon. It is in the hunting section sold for deer food. There are 2 types one has salts and minerals for antler growth. The one I buy is pure Molasses. I have used the same molasses mix for a full year. I mix mine 1 part molasses 3 parts water. I use warm water to get it mixed then it stays at shop temperature the rest of the time. I have found that it will not work through grease or oil. I decrease with Dawn dish soap then rise before soaking in molasses. When I think it is done in a few days i just rinse with warm water. re dip if needed. If the paint is in good condition it will not bother it.You do want to keep it covered or the dog will want to lick it and the cover keeps flies out. The only down side is it is slow. But the up side is since you can reuse the same molasses over and over cost is low. I have had sized up parts come free after a few days. Buckets for small stuff, kiddo swimming pool for medium sized parts. and a wood frame with heavy Gage plastic for big thing like hoods or frames. THANKS Dan H
All good info if you are dipping. Could you remove the rust on the Scout hood or Caddy panels by spreading it on with a brush like Naval jelly?
@@proshaper Yes you just have to keep it wet. Since it talks longer it you will wany to put it on full straight ( it will be thicker). Then put plastic wrap over it. It will never hurt the base metal as long as there is no rust. From what i have been able to find out chemically it works the same as Evaporust. So similar application. THANKS for sharing your years of experience with us beginners in the car restoration hobby! Dan H
@@proshaper My 2 cents re molasses: It works, but I only use it if I can let the part sit submerged for six or seven days. I use the one part molasses to ten parts water ratio and I use something like that; just buying the pint jars at Walmart and putting one of those in the 5 gallon bucket and then ten jars full of water. The bucket lid keeps the critters out of it and stops the smell. It certainly is a gentle method; seems to me it would be good for a valuable part you wanted to use for a pattern but maybe it was rusted to paper thin and almost just a lacework of real metal left after the rust is gone; that is where I think the molasses method shines. Because the action is self limiting and there is no physical work effort; the black residue rinses off easily without a lot of scouring or scrubbing. One thing I noticed when I put an old rusty handsaw blade in the molasses; it came out with a thick coating that looked remarkably like pure carbon powder - it rinsed off easily; but I suspect that may actually have been carbon and am guessing perhaps it was the sulphur in the molasses pulled the carbon out of alloy with the metal - if my suspicion is correct then the molasses method may not be good for high carbon steel like a saw blade; but hopefully someone who really knows their physical chemistry will care to chime in and correct me; I actually would really love to know where all the black powdery stuff came from and why it was so pronounced with the saw blade when other types of steel it wasn't noticeable.
Hi Wray, I'm not sure if you've covered this in your back catalogue of videos, but could you tell us what you believe are the essential work tools for someone getting interested and started in panel shaping (hobby level). Perhaps a video going over the main hand tools and machinery you'd recommend. Cheers.
Hi Chris, I think I did do a video on the essential hand tools that everyone can use. You have to go to my CZcams homepage click the video tab and scroll through the titles. Thanks.
@@proshaper Many thanks!
Any recommendations on frame rust treatment, mostly box frames with few access holes? Trying to prevent a rust through from inside out, nothing worse than spending tome cleaning and painting a frame only to have it bubble with rust a year later.
Keep watching, we will make a video soon on removing the rust on the Cadillac frame.
What is the best method in your opinion for getting rust out of an interior and is there a way to remove rust from things not removed like inside of a rocker panel and cab corner that you recommend or do you just not worry about that
Spray with Rust 911 continuously until the rust totally desolves. Did you see the video where we removed all the rust on the floor and chassis of a 52 Cadillac? I have 300 videos.
Wray, You have used and tried many things but, "Coopers Strip Club" sells kits or refills in large containers. Two products that are sprayed on with a squirt bottle. It is made & sold in New Zealand and the refill of 2, is $250+. Buy online or call. The inventors wife answers the phone and knows how to use. No extra overseas #'s to dial by phone. You will be shocked. They have some CZcams videos you have to watch.
DK, ASE master, retired.
I have a 66 Chevy that spent it's life in the SW states, mostly if not all of the rust is on the top due to the sun burning off the paint. I would like to use your technique to go after the roof followed by the trunk and hood. MY QUESTION is this: Is it safe to treat it going in a top down direction? I'm worried that the strippers would leak down to the lower panels. Can I really do a 1x1 section or 4x4 section on a weekend without risk ruining the rest of the cars paint? Is it manageable in that way?
Not a problem . You can wash and dry the areas with baking soda and that will neutralize any minute amounts of phosphoric acid.
Great info Wray, sad I cant buy down here in OZ
You can't buy what? Naval Jelly? Rust 911? Paint remover?
@@proshaper 911 isnt sold here , paint remover any brand you can
@@peterbonnici1723 We used Naval Jelly on the Scout and Cadillac
@@proshaper Yes watched both vids, the naval jelly I purchased some thing similar but not as thick. I am doing up an old John deere Backhoe as its basic metal and easy to get to both sides of the panels . Just to understand whats going on with metal movement. I then have a couple of old VW square backs to do which again you can get to both sides of the panels as they all bolt on. Yes saw the Caddy what a great shape and style car, and the scout is pretty cool as well
any suggestions on rust removal on what you cant dip for example the engine bay ? got that really old , hard rust in engine bay , i can only come to sandblasting to remove ?
Naval jelly. That is how we did the Scout and the Cadillac. Keep watching! A lot more rust removal coming up.
@@proshaper thanks wray , but we dont have that in australia , thanks for your time mate
Hey Wray, what’s happening with the restoration 101 series? Was really enjoying it.
I will get back to the XK 150 door. might be a few weeks. Tying to get the Scout restoration series up and running first.
After I am done applying the epoxy primer than finished my body work, do I spray the epoxy primer on it again? Also if I have a lot of body work and the epoxy sits, how long will it last and what do I have to do?
I'm not a painter. I'm a coachbuilder. See my other 287 videos.😁
In the video you said not to grind or sand off the paint but you didn't said why not.
I am using nylon fiber discs to remove paint. That's fast and not rough for the surface.
Anything wrong with this methode? Thanks.
I did mention that anything that scratches the metal surface is not a good practice.
@@proshaper But you didn't explained why.
There is also a difference whether a scratch is in the hundredth or tenth of a millimeter.
Anyway, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@RallyeRacin9 I did explain😁. You will notice that on all production built cars the sheetmetal prior to painting is flawless. Any scratches created by heavy file edge cuts or 36 or 24 grit grinding discs will cause paint shrinkage. Best nor to go there. A 320 sandpaper will leave the metal ready for priming. Guys that use Bondo flllers gouge the hell out of the sheet metal to insure the Bondo sticks. Bad Practice!!!
@@proshaper O.K., thanks for your explanation.
So a nylon fiber discs to remove paint is fine, since it leaves a far smoother surface than 320 sandpaper.
Me: No way he can restore this
Wray: Hold my tools
Its an amazing transformation, but isnt it in danger of blowing its brains out on cost .
The repair patch is really first class , as will the rest of it be , but even not knowing yet how many hours you have into it , any customer of mine would have a heart attack and shout stop on the whole thing now ,,, the time just wont warrant the end price its not like it will ever be 100k car its only ever going to be what it is , it must be a different set up over in the USA. Just commenting not criticising and trying to understand .
What is your opinion of rust removal through electrolysis?
I tried it once, too messy for me. I'm sure you can get great results.
@@proshaper Thank you for the reply.
Personal experience with media blasters where I live , always full of excuses why it didn't turn out as they promised.
How do you destroy a set of 1971 GM Rallye wheels ,beats me but they managed to do so.
You have so many gear out there :) Why not to buy dry ice blasting machine? On alibaba it's only cost 1500$ with duties and shipping it would go around 2000$, it's absolutely worth it:) Or if you don't want to depend on dry ice, laser machine costs like 4500$ on alibaba. Still worth it if you make living out of this :) i've bought dry ice blasting machine and paid 200$ for shipping 25% for duties, and I'm just a hobbiest, it's 2eur for 1kg of ice, ~30kg/hour. Saved tons of time.
That Cadillac invites the question "Is penetrating fluid available by the gallon?".
Very little needed.
Wray .? Have you ever used muriatic acid ? Will remove all organic material rust. And will leave only good steel
Muriatic is much stronger than phosphoric, I will stay away from that. Watch the next video we do on Tuesday.
Hey i live in Boston I can I learn n work for free?
Call 508 347 7749
Канал превратился в разговорный жанр(... Хочется смотреть именно работу, а не слушать разговоры...
So why would I want to buy a chemical to remove rust when I can buy a kiddie pool some washing soda and apply some dc voltage?