Scout Restoration Series: Measuring the surface
Vložit
- čas přidán 16. 06. 2021
- www.proshaper.com
Our Amazon Storefront:
www.amazon.com/shop/proshaper
Scout Restoration Series: Measuring the surface
In this installment of the Scout Restoration series Wray had Mark create a partial flexible shape pattern from another scout with an intact fender. Wray explains the process and why he uses a flexible shape pattern instead of a wood or wireform buck. Then he shows the hood from the scout and how it had a lot of surface rust on it. For the rust removal we use Naval jelly, spreading it on the hood with a 1" brush. Depending on how bad the rust is, we usually leave it on for 3 - 24 hours. Once you see the naval jelly turn black, the rust is ready to be scraped off with a putty knife. Most of the time 1 coating of the naval jelly works and other times we need to apply it 2-3 more times. In the next video Wray will take off the Flexible Shape Pattern from the other scout, cut out a blank piece of sheet metal and create the patch panel.
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
Website: www.proshaper.com
Facebook: / proshaper
Instagram: / proshaper
Twitter: / proshaperm
Linkedin: / pros. . - Jak na to + styl
Brilliant!
Coffee to hand here we go. First class , Im really going to enjoy this series and Im sure im not the only one either.
Highlight of my Thursday!
Off to a good start!
Enjoying this Series. Thanks Wray.
Thanks Wray these videos are excellent
Superb work
Your videos are always good but this is one of the best yet - so much information packed into 23 minutes and presented with an easy manner. Your system for compound curves has got to be the most sophisticated way to approach that problem.. I was looking at one of the 1970's aerospace patents (McDonnell-Douglas?) for when they were trying to write software to help make compound curve patterns. It sounded like a good idea but in practical application I think it was out of the frying pan into the fire - they did eventually get the software down but it was more like a 20 year process. Much better to find a simple way like you have and get right down to work. I should think metal sculptors could use your method as well for art pieces.
I used to own a 1966 Scout just like the ones you have. It was a major league piece of s hit.
We will upgrade so it won't be as you described.
@@proshaper I wish you the best of luck.
Very excited about this series. Thank you
Love your series.
Glad to see I'm not the only person having troubles with those Zep sprayers. I've had them fail with just water.
Do you get rid of a ski jump in aluminum the same way you show steel? Thanks denny from tx.
Where’s Wray been?
Coming back soon.
Why not use muriatic acid? Its not structural and the process is way faster for rust removal.
Best to use muriatic outside in the fresh air, if it is warm outside I will followed with phosphoric acid and a good water flush.
👍👏👏
What are your thoughts on acid dipping a car body? Thank you for the excellent restoration series Wray!
Hi Ian, I wouldn't do it. I have had fenders acid dipped in the past, it is very difficult if not impossible to purge all of the acid from sandwiched areas. I do like alkaline solution dipping but it isn't available anymore. Watch my rust removal video, lot of good info there.
How about doing this with only hand tools ... as if it was a job on a customers premises .. no wheel and no shrinker. Make it very realistic ... just a thought .
Look at Fitzee's Fabrications. He uses basic tools, 95% of the time.
Please don't compare me to Fitzee....
The next video in this series on the Scout front fender will show how to wheel out the panel. I use my CZcams English wheel. If you wanted to make this panel with just a hammer dolly and a beater bag you could but it would be pointless for me to do it. It would be like a surgeon doing open heart surgery with his pocket knife instead of a scalpel.
@@proshaper No comparison. Your videos are fascinating and informative, but many of us don't have your impressive machines or skills, but we appreciate seeing how you do it. I won't mention his name again, but he is inspiring and uses methods which are attainable to me with my basic tools and my non - Barret-Jackson car. I'll remember what you've shown me though, and will incorporate as much of your advice as possible.
@@proshaper
some days its all you have , it would be nice to see an '' old hand'' doing it this way ., it was just an idea ,but as the saying goes , in the land of the blind the one eyed man is king.
Wray this is going to be a great series! I am working on very similar repairs and your past videos have helped immensely.
One issue I struggle with though is the fact I supported production equipment in a manufacturing environment for many years and they always wanted everything RFN (right f'ing now). I have a hard time spending too much time making gauges, etc. I know this is a discipline that has to be mastered and your flexible shape pattern is the best compromise between time and accuracy that I have seen.
Do you ever just use the original part as a "buck" to make a patch panel before you cut out the rusted out section? I know it is one thickness removed but doesn't it get you very close?
I always use my flexible shape pattern method when making patch panels.