3 Reasons Why I DON’T Use Fluorocarbon 🚨
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2024
- I’ve never used fluoro much in my fishing, I just don’t need it.
I know it’s a very popular material but I don’t buy into the hype that I can catch more carp with it. I explain in this video why I think the benefits of fluoro are not worth the extra cost compared to mono.
► In this video:
00:00 What is fluoro used for?
00:15 What is wrong with fluoro?
00:46 Is an invisible line worth it?
01:57 Is a heavier line better?
03:29 Is fluoro really stronger than mono?
06:31 Is fluoro more abrasion resistant than mono?
08:25 Is a stiff fluoro better in your fishing?
11:30 When to use fluoro?
13:36 Are fluoro mainlines better?
16:42 Bonus material: How to tie the mono hair rig
► My carp lines and hooklinks: amzn.to/3sp3BhV
► The only rig bits you need: amzn.to/3R2uVNw
► In my tackle box: amzn.to/3R3HoR0
► Beausoleil Carp and Cats (my lake in France)
www.frenchcarpandcats.com/
(When available, we use affiliate links and may earn a commission)
This channel is supported by Nash but I am in charge of the content of each video and only use products I have total confidence in.
#matthewcollins #carpfishingexplained - Sport
The best way to improve your results this year is to stop using fluoro. There, I’ve said it and I feel better for doing so. Yes I know that fluorocarbon is a really popular choice for carp fishing and sure I’ve tried a few different brands but I was never convinced that the fluorocarbon could take any credit for these captures. I’m convinced that if you were to switch to mono, you’d catch more carp and if you watch the video I’ll explain why. You’ll definitely save money so swapping to mono could be your best move in 2024.
Hi ,Matt ,i was waiting for this one!
Can it be a coincidence that my brother started having better results using 0.40 HQ fluorocarbon hooklenght ,for big Danube river carp?
Does the fluoro stays cleaner in river water,or it s exactly the opossite,due to all kind of particles in suspension,in the fast flowing water?
I would be gratefull for some input on this.
Thanks in advance,and have a great year!
I sometimes use flouro simply as I have it in the box, it's stiffer yes but then a coated stiff ( Armourlink ) behaves better imo, plus you can strip back a small bit to create a more natural material !!
@@andreipetrescu603The answer to that is to use it & inspect it every time you wind in, the water clarity can change day to day, heavy rain affects it, that said its working & gives confidence- that's what I look for, others maybe not 👍
I opt for fluro due to its sinking and abrasion properties!!
It casts shite ! An expensive. But if you want to pin everything down , an have it be really abrasion resistant then. Fluro
Weedy lakes
Mono only !!! Braid ideally
@@andreipetrescu603 Hi Andrei, fluoro quickly accumulates debris in flowing water so yeah absolutely useless. I use the Nash HD snag leader material in 0.50 or 0.60 for all my river carping. 0.40 is okay if there are no rocks and zebra mussels but I wouldn’t use it on my local river 👍
Brilliant, informative video as always Matt, thank you
Great to hear mate, thanks 😊
I used it for live baiting for perch as I find the slight stiffness helps rigs work a lil better and keeps tangles down.
I am going to try the hook bead with a knotless knot. I use mono for tench with that setup and have noticed that with a turned-in point hook, I get too much mouth damage, not every fish but enough I have noticed. I will see if the hook bead helps... but I won't get many tench the next month or two.
Interesting stuff Matt as always thanks👍
Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed it.
A wise old angler once told me, whilst in a tackle shop, to remember that 90% of the items on show were designed to catch anglers, not fish...
Thank you Matthew, I've been binge watching all evening and learnt a lot from the exceptional informative video's. I pleasure fished years ago and used Fluorocarbon and was continually wasting time, and money, rather than fishing. Due to an old injury I will be buying ready made rigs unfortunately. Planning to go specimen carp fishing in the very near future around my area of N. Wales.
Equipment, bait's, glugs etc is so expensive now, I'm on a very tight budget and so much hype on big name companies ' This is the best boilie or rod, reel and mainlines etc' and my head hurt from all that research and still non the wiser on a mainline I can rely on these day's. Any advice would be much appreciated and trust what I've seen so far on your video's friend.
Hi mate, tying your own rigs is a massive edge. If you are struggling then do you think you can manage the multi rig? Here’s a couple of links on versions I use: czcams.com/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/video.htmlsi=9rddmy6PU4U17HWD
czcams.com/video/ekdkM52dSq8/video.htmlsi=ld81u9LUPwPLeR93
Failing that, nowadays of course you can buy ready made rigs but the only type I would ever recommend buying would be a multi rig:
czcams.com/video/-56qaYDgnF4/video.htmlsi=9tauNFZkn_-Xiceu
A rig is only as good as the hook and depending on the venue, one cast is enough to ruin a hook. Changing hooks is therefore essential if you want consistent success (or any success on certain waters!)
Regarding mainline, mainlines do differ but at the end of the day they are only as good, or as bad at the knots you tie. That’s why I get customers to dead lift test theirs with a whopping 8kg dumb bell (we have very large cats). That’s well OTT for carp fishing but if you can’t get 10lbs of knot strength then you are pushing you luck TBH. Especially with larger leads and longer casts. If you are coming from a coarse fishing background then 0.40 mono will feel very awkward and cumbersome and be OTT for your needs. It will require big pit reels to cast any distance which you probably don’t have.
Forget rated breaking strain, choose on diameter. I’ve been using the Nash Bullet in 12lbs (0.33) for the last 3 years and I love it. Casts very well and yet is still very robust and strong. I’ve banked multiple 50s and even when things have gotten dicey with rocks or snags, it hasn’t let me down. When it says 12lbs it actually means that 12lbs is very achievable. I’m not saying that anyone can get that . Every knot I tie is not perfect, but every knot I tie is tested so I don't get snapped up. Best of luck, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks for all the information given. I've decided on the Daiwa Crosscast XT Carp Rod 13ft 3.5TC and the Daiwa Crosscast BR LD 5500 Reel with 15lb Nash Bullet you mentioned. All the rigs you have shown are simple enough for me to tie too as practiced today. You have helped massively, can't thank you enough Matt. Tight Lines
Great video. I agree with you. My focus is primarily on spinning fishing, and I only target carps during the predator protection season in spring. I've noticed the added benefit of using fluorocarbon lines for jigging or with deep-running wobblers in rivers or rocky areas. In these settings, the enhanced abrasion resistance of fluorocarbon compared to monofilament lines is quite evident. There's also some validity to the claim that fluorocarbon is less visible underwater. Based on my extensive experience spinning in rivers and lakes, I've found that using monofilament lines thicker than 0.24 mm rarely results in catching asps, particularly with non-top water lures. However, with fluorocarbon lines, I've consistently caught asps using fluoro up to 0.33 mm in thickness, which suggests to me a lower visibility. Nevertheless, I don't feel the necessity to use fluorocarbon for asps, as mono of 0.24 mm or thinner work exceptionally well. Apart from this, I don't see a compelling reason to use fluorocarbon for spinning. I'm also not in favor of using thick fluorocarbon for pike fishing, as it can negatively affect the lure's movement unless the lure is significantly large.
Ideally you should be using a braided mainline for spinning due to there being a lack of stretch to it. spinning with mono is generally frowned upon.
@@Rose.Of.Hizaki of course I am using braided mainline .. above I am talking about the leaders
@@tomasgajdos932 braid to mono leader? That's even worse... nobody does that
Great informative video Matt it's great to see you cut through the marketing hype that catches all of us carp anglers....
Well said 👍
Thanks mate, appreciate it 😊
Do you still recommend Nash bullet ?
My situation is shallow lake with island so sinking line with capability of persuading the occasional carp to come back from round island & from under brambles
Love your simple effective style of fishing 👍
Yes mate absolutely. The Nash Bullet has saved my arse plenty of times over the last 3 years. The 20lbs version is like tow rope if you need the toughest line available. If carp are getting into snags or round the back of an island I’d fish shorter and bait shorter to compensate. I used to fish too close but nowadays I land everything I hook because I play a bit safer. Best of luck, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks mate the main snag problem is brambles that come into play when playing a carp ( they run to low 20’s as I found out 3 weeks ago )
Strangely the only grass carp I’ve caught was the island runner . It went like a train with me following along the bank .
Cut costs even further, as soon as the word carp is added to a product the price doubles. High end sea fishing line is superb and cheaper. Ultima F1 as a main line is very very good and powerflex for leaders. (the powerflex is exactly the same specs and comes on the same spool just a different label on it as some carp brands material).
As mentioned below for active styles of fishing flouro has its place particularly lure fishing but for carping on bottom rigs i prefer to try to match line colour to bottom colour
Great video as always Matt, I feel the same way. Just like you said countless times, just keep it simple and stay with the stuff you are confident with. Most of the new stuff is usually just a gimmick, only once in a blue moon something is actually game changing.
What is your opinion on the Pole Position Central Shocker System? I can guess you probably think it is overcomplicated but since it is a running lead variant I am enclined to ask and know what you think about it.
Cheers
Hi mate, yes, you guessed right 😊 For me, simple is always better and always will be. I am aware of the pole position and the PB products hit and run system and I did allow one guest to use them one time. Although I understand the theory, in practice when you get such a product on the lake bed there’s a lot of crud that can jam up the product which to my mind makes it dangerous. I’d much rather have a nice large diameter plastic run ring that the mainline can fly through with zero resistance or just a basic running inline. There’s just need for anything else IMO.
Hi Matt, thankyou for your answer! Yes I feel the same, there are just to many components that can attract weed etc. Have you seen the new stuff from Nash? They have some nee mainlines etc, I can’t wait to see your reviews or thoughts on them.
Cheers!
@@yordisanders9859 Yes, I've seen there are new monos out soon, I'll have a look at them when they come out 😊
Ive just bought a spool ( 1200 not 1000 which is a bonus) - subsonik invisicam - so far ive found the knots pass the test & it breaks up great against most bottoms ( its not one colour its camo ) i wasnt convinced as the diameter is thinner than other lines, Gardner GT-HD normally 15lb ( my local lake inly has 3 x low 40s & ive banked 2 of them).so far ive found its great as long as its had a few hours soak- not ideal for the start of a session if bone dry but thats a given imo, i use Tubigrip bandage wet over my spools the day b4- then it behaves great- ok its new to my armoury but so far im saying yes 👍, still carrying spools of Gardner & bullet in case i decide to re spool- ive friends who say why not stick with Gardner or Bullet ( i agree great lines) that said over many years ive seen so many changes & developments ( plus i like to tinker 🙄) i will give you a definitive yes or no after a few more month's use - yet another great upload Mathew 👏👏
Being a good angler is listening to every & all opinions, being a very good angler is checking these things out yourself- not simply repeating things people say, yes some peoples views tend to carry more weight simply because past advice ive replicated multiple times 🎣🎣🎣 great upload Matt 👏
Good to read your thoughts, cheers mate 😊
ive been using the same cheap mono since the 80's, a very good test thanks
Cheers mate 😊
Great video thanks Matt, I’ve just started using Amnesia as a hooklink, seems to be just what I was looking for and really cheap.
Good stuff that is
Thanks mate, yes, I've used plenty of Amnesia too over the years. The only downside for me is that it comes on really small spools and it's quite coily, I prefer large diameter leader spools.
Use it a lot for hooklengths
Used flouro for a few years, different brands etc and yep your correct, for mainlines for me are either insight gr60 or pb control line.
I've never used fluoro as a hooklink.. I used to use it as a mainline as I was only fishing small waters. I thought I was fishing well with slack lines and running leads until I seen my line lay from up a tree after my lines had been out for 2 nights? In my minds eye my line was sat on the bottom in roughly a straight line from rod tip to leader. What I witnessed were coils of line going out into the water off the bottom. I don't use it any more.
Pretty sure I read somewhere that fluros abrasion resistance under water is better than mono. Testing it on a dry rock probably isn’t very accurate. Also I’d prefer using Fluoro mainly for the extra stiffness and tangle free elements. However usually just use a semi stiff coated now, if want to use stiff all the way I use amnesia 20 or 25 clear banging stuff and cheap
I’m a big fan of Amnesia too. Yes, water acts as a lubricant so the abrasion resistance will be higher under water, by doing the testing dry, I’m creating a worst case scenario.
This will be the first time I disagree, I fish alot of gin clear lakes and since using tiger line from Gardner as a mainline and their new invisi link as a hook link, before I used esp ghost just for reference, my catch rate has gone up...I majorly outfished my mate in France and I truly believe it was down to my mainline and hook link as we watched them spook off his spot and not mine several times, still very informative and gives good food for thought. I should add I'm methodical when it comes to cleaning any of my fluorocarbon materials before and after use, in-between bites also.
Although I don’t use it now (have used braid for over a decade), I used xline for years & agree with you. My feeling was that its weight meant that it sunk better than mono & helped with line shy fish.
@@Toronto_James I agree mate and from the results in my own fishing it's undeniable for me.
For the last 10 years + I've used fluro and love the stuff. I use the heaviest stuff I can get away with straight through. Definitely more abrasion resistant than any mono I've used
Also the price might be higher but I find it lasts way longer than mono so get changed less in the long run.
Ok thank you for your reply
Hi matt have you ever tried the turbo german rig was just wondering what your thoughts are on this rig thanks
Not a rig I’m interested in using.
Have you got experience with korda xt snap leader as a rig material? Very supple yet 50 lb 0.55 mm
Hi mate, I know the product but I've never tested it.
I use fluro leaders I just go to the sea fishing shop cheap as chips there 100m spool
I switched to Daiwa sensor in 25lbs instead of flouro, i have not noticed a diffence in catch rate and i can get a bulk spool for the same price as 50m of flouro.
@matthewcollinsangler I just watched your video on your mono d-rig with zig hooklink material and a long shank size 8.
Now in this video, within the bonus, u show another simple mono rig with chod size 6 and a hair.
Why now another mono rig? Which of these are u using in your fishing currently?
I am kind of new to carp fishing but I made the palm test with both rigs and I think the mono d-rig graps better. Can I also use the zig hooklink 12lb for the mono hair rig with the chod hook?
Which of both rigs do you think hooks better? Which rig of these would u use in which circumstances?
And another question: Why are you not using a simple multi rig. Then you can reuse everything except the hook after a catch and safe even more time and material?
Thanks and best regards
Stefan
Hello Stefan, I use 0.30 to 0.60 mono depending on where I’m fishing and the lake bottom (Zig-flo, Bullet or a heavy duty snag leader). The choice of mono depends on the exact nature of the venue. You cannot use 12lb mono hooklink with a chod hook and cut and blob it like a normal D rig as the eye is too large (the blob will just pull through the eye). This is why the Zig-Flo rig was designed in a very specific manner. I do use the multi rig and I made a couple of videos of them. Multi rigs are sometimes the best choice, but in another situation I would choose mono. I need to make a video to explain how to choose which rig but this is a complicated subject so as a newcomer I’m not surprised that you are confused! Don’t fall into the trap of believing that one rig is necessarily better than another. Certain rigs suit certain situations better and some rigs suit certain anglers better.
@@matthewcollinsanglerthanks for taking the time to answer me :).
Can I use the 12lb zig link for the mono hair rig shown at the end of this video?
What is the advantage of thinner hook link, so why should I chose a 0.30 over a 0.45 mono?
Which rig would you recommend me, your mono d-rig (other video) or mono hair rig (bonus of this video)?
I am fishing with bottom baits in a small lake with mostly sandy ground at 1,5 - 4m using a baitboat and an inline running led (like eyplained in your other video).
I would love a video explaining which rig and setup in which situation.
I generally love yours approach of keeping it simple and easy. Ideally I want just 1-2 variants of leds ans rigs.
@@Ffets1404 Yes you can use zig hooklink for a mono hair rig. I do this when I want to use a few grains of sweetcorn on the hair. Thin hooklinks work well with baits like sweetcorn. Thin hook links are okay for short to medium range but you need to be able to cast well and be very confident of your knots and any hazards that are present. If you are using a bait boat I would go for something thicker so there’s no risk of it tangling when the trap opens. 0.45 or 0.50 is a better option in this situation and will work well with a running inline lead. Best of luck, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsanglerthanks 😊 - works very well!
But which rig would YOU recommend to me in general if you could only use 1 in my situation?
Bait boat, bottom bait / wafter, running inline led, led free leader, mid distance
@@Ffets1404 Ah! A big question! OK, it’d have to be a ‘heavy duty’ mono d rig - with bottom bait and running lead of course 😊 Video on this rig very soon 😊
I bought it messed about with it but I prefer braided hooklinks.i only use it if I'm going on a fisherie if it says only fluro no braided hooklinks.good video matt mate
Just tied 2 of those rigs with 20lb gardner xt but it doesn't seem to turn just slides across the parm of the hand with the hook point up in the air
Hi mate, I assume that you are referring to the mono hair rig? I’ve had plenty of anglers comment on this subject. In the video I made it works every time but it does depend on how you do the palm test. Assuming that you’ve exited the hair the correct way (out of the front of the eye) then I really wouldn't worry about it. I’ve had thousands of comments of how good this rig is and I have absolute faith in it.
The only thing I have found that did disappear under water was the old nash defusion camo nxt mainline the colour was amazing shame they discounted it
The tubing was great stuff aswel It disappeared over any lake bed
@richardsearle931 yeah I have the tubing and some of the other bits I bought a load befor it's all discounted as they have come away from that colour now and it seems no one cares about concealment now days
Concealment is a funny one, especially when you investigate what carp can / can’t see compared to humans.
I use FC purely for its stiffness and antitangle/presentation properties. A mono with the same characterstics would be fine but which one?
As I show in the video my choice is the Nash heavy duty snag leader in 30lbs (0.50) or 40lbs (0.60) as my fluoro alternative. It’s supplied on large diameter 100m spools and is 1/5th of the cost of fluoro and just as good. I’ve been using it for 3 years very successfully.
Cheers, Matt! You converted me to use running rigs, so this season will use mono rigs also to prove them to myself :)
Yep, agree 100%
Cheers mate 😊
Matt I would love to know if you use circle hooks for carp
Hi mate, no I don’t use or recommend circle hooks for carp fishing. They are blunt with a very in turned point and they’re designed for predators, not carp. For carp fishing, use a short shank straight pointed hook like the Nash chod twister. Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks Matt
I remember testing different lines last year and rigs.. long story short it went from no fish to some fish and best results was fluorocarbon with method feeder.. since then that's my personal choice.
I only use mono 15pound and I’ve caught 55 pound carp and my son as caught 80 pound carp when we fish in France
Hi Matt, if I remember correctly you never use helicopter setups. If you were to a fish silty venues how would you approach that with lead clips, I’m guessing lighter leads longer hooklinks. Anything else you’d do, or would you opt for helis?
Hi mate, well I certainly wouldn't use a lead clip. TBH I think anglers worry far too much about silt. Last autumn I fished some massive 100h public lakes and simply cast 6” long (0.50) mono rigs as far as a 3oz lead would go using a 9ft scopes! Sometimes I felt a drop (firm silt), sometimes I didn't (soft silt) either way, I still caught. I find that the addition of a heavily compressed 3cm long narrow PVA mesh of Scopex Squid stick mix was all I needed for a bite. It’s not just to create a strong food signal, the stick creates separation between the lead and hook on the cast and then slows down the rig when it hits the water. It also prevents the bait from being dragged too far into the silt when it lands. Even if the lead plugs a bit the carp will still find it the bait. As far as the lead system goes, all you need is a basic running ledger. Here’s a link to a timestamp in one of my videos which shows the running rig I use: czcams.com/video/_YIHBuJuuuU/video.html
Just swap the gripper lead for a distance lead and maybe cut the swivel off for better aerodynamics. No full video on this yet but you’ll get the idea. Hope that helps 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler Sorry forgot you’re anti lead clip, I suppose I should have said, any lead setup other than heli, lead before rig arrangement (non heli) ok great thanks, my venue is all heli and Ronnie which makes sense to me however really wondering if this is just fashion rather optimal.
@@matthewcollinsangler also interesting you’d still fish something 6inch long like this. At the stow I’d hazard a guess you’d almost always be buried under silt there with that, maybe it doesn’t matter
@@Kb11466 I hate Ronnie rigs too, unnecessary and not good for the carp’s mouths. Many French venues ban them (inc. mine). Heli rigs aren't quite as bad as lead clips as far as enabling the carp to lever out a rig but having tested them extensively against a running ledger there is no contest. I know it goes against what everyone is doing but if your hooks are razor sharp then switching to running rigs will make it feel like cheating lol.
@@matthewcollinsangler I think my main hatred for Ronnie’s stems from the fact it’s all I ever see anyone use now. Just broke a dry spell with longish choddys, again no one’s using them except me on my venue. Will be persisting with them until later spring
Are you ready to hear a scenario for Flouro? Big gin clear gravel pit, quite distance fishing with bait or bellyboats. The bottom here looks almost like a boilie roller if you know, its very wavy and you fish 0,5m plateaus so to say. Quite low stock with veery old fish that know it all.
My gear: 300m Thin(0,08-0,10) braid to get out to the distance, then at least 25m Flouro leader(0.55-1.0) with naked drop off in-Lines. I believe 100m plus is far enough out that i will not straighten that Flouro with moderate weighted hanger. So i have 20m plus of flat end tackle. Notice: Always fish this setup safe, i mean with 10 or 12lb hooklink to keep it the weakest link of the chain.
I admit this is a very special situation but for that one lake i have to keep my old reels. My every day setup ist regular Mono often BigGame and changing it once a year.
I mean, you are basically right on everything still it has this one clear advantage of the specific weight, glad you pointed it out too.
You are a wise man. Much love from Germany😘
Hi, wow, sounds like a very specific situation for sure and I do understand why you have chosen to use a fluorocarbon leader in this situation. At 300m range if there is any wind or tow, some of the leader will easily be lifted off the lake bed so maybe you’re not getting the 20m but you’ll definitely have some of it pinned down for sure. One thought is you could swap the fluoro for a regular mono leader and see if that changes the results. My bet is that you’ll catch exactly the same as you would do normally but if the water is rock hard and bites are hard to find I totally understand why you wouldn't want to do that! I wish you all the best in your fishing and thanks for sharing your experiences. Regards, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks man, you got me slightly wrong tbh. The reel is equiped with the line combination that i mentioned. Fishing distance is round about 130-150m, wich is by the way totally off my comfort zone. But it is a very old gravel pit with fish up to 70, 80 pounds. Years ago i spoke to some kids that had just released a 74 pounder and they let me see the pictures. We all knew it has 50s. But 70 is another level you dont see this everywhere in Germany. When they were weighing this monster the kid behind the scale say, 37...short silence...and then from the other side: Man this are kilograms!!! 🤣🤣🤣wtf....shut up let me see...🤣🤣🤣
Dabbled myself wirery ol stuff can never can get it straight frustrating stuff
The other problem I'm having with this mono rig is the hair loop knot keeps coming undone when I pull the boilie of the hair
If the hair loop is coming undone then you are either not tightening up the knot well enough to begin with or cutting the tag end of this knot too short. The other cause is rock hard boilies. I prefer the mono D and a bait screw with hard baits. TBH these mono rigs are only designed to be cast out once anyway as the hook will be blunt (catch or blank) after a day or a night in the water. So you should be tying a new rig anyway so the fact that the hair loop knot is coming undone doesn't actually matter. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.
Good logic as always from Matt. I have one single use for it: on waters where braid is not allowed, and I am looking for a semi-stiff hooklength; and especially as boom for heli rig. I like that the stiffness of it will increase the chance for it to fall away from my mainline, rather than crumpled on or under it. I like the Korda IQ fluro, and find that after using rig knot pullers, the fluro (that was curled when coming off the spool, to tie the rig) simply ‘sets’ dead straight.
I've been told a couple of things by 'many a tackle shop guy'.. reguarding how you dont need to test your line, because the scales arnt accurate enough to give a repeatable result, so you just need to step up your line.....this will be backed up with 'this thicker heavier line is thinner than the others.......yawn and walk away lol.
If your not testing your line you dont know! Pull your line and feel it and hear it, if it 'pinks' the line is out of date and will just snap randomly....oooo have you tried this knot that knot it must be you...have you tried stepping up?......fffff pink its guff 'crack snap noise' it's good. The rest costs a sesion and three more trips to the shop and off course...lost another good fish.
If the line snaps on the knot...any knot... then it doesnt matter if its 50lb breaking strain, yu cant tie anything to it!!! Eather way you need to know what it snaps at.....so test it. (Using scales is accurate enough...if it isnt then that 5lb fish isnt 5lbs is it?? The scales arnt accurate??).
In hind site, every bit that you 'dont know' just adds even more blind guessing...and more trips to the shop and lets face it if its 1 fish a week anything up to half a season a time....add the cost up over the year, and of course your time, all to just loose the big one....doesnt build confidence does it lol.
Pinks and tinks just bin it.....
Mono is more abrasive resistant than fluorocarbon. We have been lied to by marketing teams. Check out the salt strong guys on CZcams. As the name suggests they mostly fish the sea but have done many tests on abrasion resistance and mono wins by a good margin.
Just to add something to think about Matthew, I’m sure I read somewhere that mono will out perform fluro in a dry abrasion test every time but in a wet (fishing) situation, fluro will perform better 👍
Hmm, interesting. Never heard of that one. If I need extreme abrasion resistance then I just use 0.60 mono. It’s what I’d use for a leader so using it for hooklink makes sense to me.
Thank you so much 👌
(From 🇭🇺)
Fisherman
😊😊😊
I only use fluro for Ronnie's and leaders for pike fishing but that's like 180lb fluro
The issue of fluorocarbon also runs wild in the game fishing world, as it is hailed as an almost guaranteed fish on the bank product prior to the last one. I have never fished for carp, so I am out of my comfort zone and won't comment on such things. Some fly fishers insist it is the best of everything, I can catch the same if not more fish on a fly tied to a monofilament tippet by adjusting my presentation, fly choice and improving my technique alone, as these are a much bigger factor than that of FC vs mono. If it gives the user confidence, then by all means use it. The density is not an issue to me as I add a paste that can sink my mono line in seconds, as for the optical properties of fluorocarbon my view is this; if the fish had an issue with seeing any lines we use then no one would ever catch a fish! I came by your channel and your comments rang true to me, so I thought I would say hello and my own views on the subject.
Hi John, thanks for sharing your experience, makes a lot of sense to me 😊
The lake I fish the bottom is constantly turning over most of the year, every mono I've used floats up to the surface after 30 mins. Using fluro this doesn't happen and means I don't have to use back leads. I hate fishing with back leads.
Hmm, I’m not sure what you mean by this but it sounds like a very unique situation and if you don’t like backleads and the cost of fluoro is not prohibitive then I can see why you’d choose it.
Hi Matt! In your claim, I think you exaggerate a little the importance of the cost difference between fluorocarbon and mono. I believe that, for those who have invested a significant amount in fishing equipment, the difference of a few euros between the two materials is insignificant. I have been using Shinsei P-Line Fluorocarbon for many years and, in my opinion, it is better than the Snag leader from Nash. Shinsei is cheap, and its stiffness is much lower than the fluorocarbon from Nash that you presented. Comparing the price per meter, the approximate cost is 0.13 euro/m for Snag leader (0.50mm 15kg), respectively 0.20 euro/m for Shinsei (0.44mm 11.11kg). I remain of the opinion that, at least for rigs, a Shinsei-type fluorocarbon has more qualities than a mono.
P.S. I have followed all your podcasts which I really appreciate.
Hi there, good to read about your experience and yes, I totally get your point, hooklink material is not a huge cost in the scheme of things (depends how many spools you end up buying though!). You have found a material that works for you and that’s great. I meet hundreds of anglers at my lake each year and I know many think fluoro is what they need to catch carp and that’s what I try to address in the video. For me, it’s about understanding what is required for the fishing situation you’re in, understanding that line diameter is more important than rated breaking strain, testing your knots to know that they won’t fail and understanding the rig mechanics for the spot you’re fishing.
Thanks for the support 😊
Salt strong another channel do strength tests and abrasion comparisons between mono and fluro and mono won hands down so that’s good enough for me
The only problem I'm having with mono hair rig is it keeps splitting the 15mm boilies
Hmm, that's strange, unless you are using a very thick mono or a very heavy baiting needle. I’ve made plenty of simple mono rigs using 0.35 mono and a size 8 chod Twister and 1 or two 15mm baits. Without knowing more I can’t help you but there are plenty of options and workarounds.
Ive found flouro as cheap as other line in my local fishing shop but then its not an overpriced course fishing shop.
More saltwater fishing and cheap for holiday makers who just want to have a go although being right by the sea there are plenty of serious saltwater anglers.
The only thing with mono is it kinks badly and ive had to change rigs when n making multiple casts when its a tricky cast or distance.
Sounds like the rig is tangling on the cast then? I would just use thicker mono (0.50) or (0.60) that’s what I use the most as it’s absolutely bombproof.
Interesting video as usual and food for thought. But Matthew Matthew Matthew, banger😮 really. That common was a beautiful fish, your better than that.
I just use any ole crap off the shelf at the time. Be it rig material, line, hooks, colour of tubing.....non of it matters.
Where you put the rig and how much bait you put i does.
Granted, you won't see me fishing lakes with sharp rocks all over the gaff, but here in england I've never had an issue, no matter what the hell i buy.
So Korda IQ is £11 for 20m
Fox illusion is £8 for 50m
X-line is £18 for 250m
No need to add tungsten (more expense) and perfect stiffness for a kick out when casting.
Ive used X-line 20lb on my rigs for years and nothing comes close for value for money.
Have you used the rig with a shot on the hook?
One of my Dutch guests gave me a pack to try from Carp Whisperer, I tied a few rigs up but I didn't really like it. I understand the principle but I don't think it adds anything. I'd rather focus on getting the mechanics right without adding such a device.
That cstpwhisper shot on the hooks are really good, i use them, with pop ups, only the shot is on the bottom, the pop up sits very low
Try doing your weight / abrasion tests "blind", without knowing which line is which. That would be interesting
Yeah sure, it would be. TBH I've been doing these tests for many years with many different lines, must have tested 25 different ones at least, so I'm very confident with my process.
Half an hour of fishing with a discrete rig is better than it not being so for that period.
Your second point is that you can weigh down cheap mono , but your adding another component so again taking the discrete out of it
I love your knowledge but this time I'm not really agreeing with your some of your points.
Saying all that I watched it anyway 👍
👌
So right Matthew, bloody stuff is a waste of time
I always use monofilament,#savethebowfin
We know your a mono fan, mono sucks
Fluro ,😂Another way to rinse people's pockets then ,😂 12:41
It sinks like a brick, and I use it for combi rigs... It's nearly invisible... Fox illusion trans khaki... Your opinion is totaly wrong.
Lets face it, its carp fishing....the most boring and easy type of fishing, you could use fairy lights with a brick and hooks on and still catch.
Fluoro is important when it comes to lure fishing because your bait is moving, the lower visibility and abrasion resistance help massively.