How to Manually Open and Close The Top (Long Version) - BMW E93 3-Series - Top Hydraulics, Inc.
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- Klaus, of Top Hydraulics, Inc. shows you how to manually emergency close, and open the convertible hardtop on the BMW E93 3-series Cabriolet. This is a big deal! BMW techs will tell you that this can only be done by certified mechanics at the dealer. Klaus will show you how to do the entire procedure in your garage or driveway using only common, affordable tools. This operation requires two people, so grab a friend and get ready to take some stress off of your shoulders and your wallet.
This is the longer, more in-depth version of this video where Klaus explains how to use a battery pack to activate the electrical latch motor. If your latch motor no longer works, this easy trick will get your top open or shut quickly in an emergency situation.
Order parts and find more useful info at www.tophydraul...
This video was an absolutely invaluable resource to me today. A few days ago, I had a hall sensor fail on my top while it was fully retracted. The rear module would open no more than 12” before a “roof movement impaired” message flashed on idrive, and the operation would stop. The trunk was empty, and an error code for one of the hall sensors appeared when scanning. My top was stuck down for 3 days, which wasn’t too big of a deal as it’s summer in California, so it kept it covered with a blanket. My local BMW dealership, a very large location with a newly built state of the art service center, said they couldn’t help me! Claimed they didn’t offer service on these tops. With the help of this video, I was able to successfully close and lock my top into place. To all who made this video possible, I express my sincerest gratitude.
Thanks for sharing and thanks for your kind words, this kind of situation is exactly why we made the video. It was a lot of work, but fun to figure out how to change a seemingly impossible situation - imagine how many E93s would get wrecked prematurely only because the top has a minor malfunction...
JUST RELEASED MY JAMMED ROOF HALF WAY UP BY RELEASING THE HYDRAULIC PRESSURE AFTER WATCHING THIS VIDEO. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. BRILLIANT SAVED ME A TIME AND MONEY.👌👍
WOW!! The attention to details, and meticulously pointing out the areas where you could go wrong is astounding! By far one of the best automobile know how videos.
I just completed this procedure today. Here are some roadblocks I faced and how I got around them.
If you’re having trouble removing the panels from the rear of the interior, you need a trim removal tool, there’s no good place to grip to simply pull. Carefully pry between the panel and the top of the ambient lighting assembly, start about an inch or two back from the front corner, it will take some force the first time you remove them as the clips are stiff, but they will come off. Once you get the first clip released, it’s easy to pull the rest of the way.
If your windows won’t roll up after, your hardtop may not be fully locked into place. Verify that the rear module locking cylinders have been fully returned to the locked position. If you’re having trouble like I was, I climbed through my vehicles rear seat pass through so that I could close the valve on the pump, as you cannot open the trunk when the top isn’t fully locked. I punched the door to get it open and ripped the ski bag out :) Once the valve was closed, I pulled up on the button and it was able to complete the locking of the top. If you have the ski bag pass through, you’ll find that you cannot easily remove the panel behind the rear seats to access the CTM. Simply remove what you can, including the passenger side luggage hook, and you can bend the panel back enough to easily access the CTM and the leads needed to operate the electronic roof locks. Lifting the top sounds daunting but don’t be scared, I’m not particularly strong in any sense of the word, and I was able to do it with the help of one person. The key to this process, GO SLOW. Follow the directions in the video very carefully, pause and rewind when you must. If you take your time, you’ll be sure to have success.
Thanks for sharing, you have some good tips there! Getting the rear locking cylinders to fully lock is the most challenging task and I assure everyone it can be done! Your approach of closing the valve on the pump and using the pump is very good. Alternatively, on could temporarily remove the hoses from the cylinders and the manual locking process will already be a lot easier. Typically, removing one single hose would make a huge difference (don't forget to re-install it later).
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!! I was working on my convertible top had moved the motor in the trunk, to take off the relays, another video said it could reset it, but it didn’t work so I went to remove the switch, like an idiot didn’t put back the pump and closed the trunk… as I moved the switch it started working and jammed the roof, it wouldn’t open or close and the trunk and windows wouldn’t work… I followed your video, the top barely moved since the pressure was not released from the hydraulic pump but only enough so we stuck a broom stick with a metal hook at the end to grab the emergency trunk release and voila!! had it not been for this video I wouldn’t had been able to move the roof at all. The dealer didn’t even know if there was a solution… thank you so much for posting such a great video!!
Congrats and thanks for sharing! Indeed, the dealers have no documentation that would show them how to manually move the top. It took us a while to come up with the method shown in the video and we were excited to share it…
Upon reviewing the first minute and a half of your excellent introduction....subscribed! (Something I rarely do.) Thank you for what promises to be a most enlightening educational reference.
Thank you for this video. I own an e93, and I really value an understanding of how the top works. With enough time, I will need it. Well done!
I guess im randomly asking but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb lost my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@@cameronjacob3736 fake news^^ these guys use this scheme with two accounts to try and trick people
First class video, thank you very much. I've bookmarked this because I know that I will have a roof calamity calamity one day.
Fantastiv video! Thanks for investing the time to make this - great explanation, video quality, and most importantly it worked.
Like others, I had a difficult time pulling the rear coupler back into place. After many attempts, I took Klaus’s advice and used my brain. I realized I could see the back side of the coupler after opening the trunk lid. I used a 4’ metal level to push to forward and with a LOT of force, got each side to latch. The red light stopped blinking on the roof switch and I am now able to raise my windows with no warnings or error messages. Now I just need to decide if I want to invest in a real repair, or just re-install the trim and acknowledge that I now have a coupe instead of convertible. Thanks again!
I’m glad it worked for you and thanks for sharing! Nice approach to closing the rear coupler: you found a tool to push against it from the trunk, which allowed you to use more force. Well done!
If you were able to manually close the top, then you can also fix it yourself. What were the exact symptoms?
@@TopHydraulics The last time the top opened, the motor unlocked but the top did not lift off the windshield. I gave it a push up from the drivers seat and it opened and properly stowed in the trunk. 2 days later when trying to close the roof (since it was now 35 degrees instead of 80), the trunk lid opened properly but the roof would not lift up. I could tell it was unlatched, but it would not lift. I closed the trunk lid and eventually found your video.
Hydraulic pump seems full of fluid and I removed and replaced the 2 relays as a “maybe this will work”, but no go. Afraid it will get stuck again, I have not tried to open the roof now that it is closed.
“Removed and reinserted” the relays - I did not replace with new parts.
@@frankmouns7747what did you use to pull the lever in the rear the long reach pliers are not working for me lol
Thank you for posting this informative video. Techs at BMW dealerships would have benefited from your educational video before they concede to defeat.
Thank you so much Klaus for this video! I have an E93 and the left side of the rear window is not quite seating, trying to figure it out. You helped me very much understanding how the whole thing works. Thanks again.
I too have a hardtop convertible. I'm having trouble with the passenger rear window which I believe is preventing the vehicle top from closing.. Is that the issue you were having as well?
Well done sir . Recently purchased a 2013 335i and was wondering how to do this in case I ever had an issue . Thankfully I don't need it now but I'm sure eventually I will. Thank you Klaus
You were the most helpful to me, I almost went to a machine. Thankfully my top still worked just unlocked the top.
Thany You kindly Klaus for making this tutorial available on CZcams. As a mechanical engineer who'd designed upgrades for robotics and printing presses, I thought that in retirement I could use your knowledge to at least lock my wife's 2013 e93 roof which had failed at the stack deployment phase and trunk down point in the garage after she had driven it 900km from home in QLD to use as local transport in her Sydney apartment to her workplace. She works one week in QLD then one week in Sdyney NSW. The first time she used the roof in the down position in Sydney from work, it failed at the up stack position and would not go to the next roof deployment phase. Unfortunately we live Gold Coast Queensland and my wife works in Sydney NSW and it had failed after first driving from Brisbane to Sydney on roads that really are rough all the way with the roof up. I drove from Queensland down to her Sydney unit garage yesterday armed with everything I thought I would need including a13.5 inch 4x2 and a set of long handle long nose 45 degree long nose pliers I'd re-forged to 90 degrees and trim removal scissor pliers I've used restoring classic and vintage vehicles over the past 50 years. I had only watched the short approximately 11 minute tutorial at that point. Our Australian '' EDITION'' model 2 litre diesel was the last run out model with some m3 model extras to get them sold before the seris 4 release and ours is actually Australian complied 2014 when it was first registered. It's still very low mileage and the hydraulic reservior shows the fluid clear and at the correct level when inspected by me. When I removed the C pillar upper door trims they appeared to have been removed at least once prior. This last of series run out model also has a ''ski'' pod with zipper in the rear squab cover you remove in the tutorial which shrowds the lower single torx 25 bolt/screw. and this model has no apparent manual trunk key lock. The system appears to have failed at the eletro mechanical point of trunk close rear lock deployment and without energizing the 12 vold 5 amp servo, no matter how much force used with pump bleed screw(s) top and upper rear side opened, I could not force the C pillar hydraulic rams to (FULLY?) close to the point they appear to interface with what appears to be hall sensor metal shrouds to allow the next protocol to continue the roof deployment from the ''stack/trunk lid down position. To confirm this, with the 2 x pistons not drawn fully back but back as far as I could get them lets say 15mm of shaft still showing rather than the 5mm or so you show is required, we unfolded the roof stack and could get the front section to align with the windscreen but at this point the rear stack section lock posts would NOT insert into their female docking assembies. QUESTION Sir. Is this because I had not accessed the 12 volt servo power plug behind the rhs rear sear upholstered squab you remove in the longer 37 minute tutorial? And if so, considering our 2013 model appears not to have a manual trunk key lock ( obscured in your tutorial as I suspect it's considered all models have a manual key lock) and then the ski sock accessory which obscures the lower torks 25 screw, could you offer any contingencies considering my wife's local BMW dealership in Miranda can not look at her car for another 4 to 6 weeks due to most of their engineers contracting Covid 19, and the fact that if I drive this vehicle the 890km home to my garage with the roof lowered into the trunk but the trunk lid not locked down, the bad interstate road condition will most probably destroy an unlocked stack. Thanks Klaus.
Also Kaus when I next rive down to Sydney to attempt to make my wife's car road useable, I am going to install a small piggy back loom to that 12 volt 5 amp servo plug to make it accessable from a discrete point near the lhs rear passengers seat inside the cabin. I suspect a relay has faultered but taking the wrong obd2 diagnostic tool I'd loaned down with me I have not been able to dectect the actual fault code to remedy the loom, relay, or hall sensor or any other process sensor I suspect did not pass the Brisbane to Sydney interstate highway rattle test at Easter when my wife took this car down to use as her private transport for the week on week off work contract she has in both capital cities.
@@AUDIOPHILE1956 Thank you for your very detailed description. It is Saturday evening and I’m traveling, which makes me less than fully concentrated. For your consideration: sometimes when a top has stalled part way during the hydraulic operation, check valves inside the pump can engage such that the frame lock cylinders cannot be moved all the way manually. If this was the case here, then you could unhook a single hydraulic hose from the pair of cylinders and manually latch the frame locks all the way. What do you think?
Great video. Was working on a car where the first aid kit was accidentally placed in the "no luggage" area in the left of the trunk. It caused a jam and prevented movement of the top. Unfortunately, it also prevented the trunk from being opened. Had to apply 12v to the gray/green wire at the back of the fuse box to get the trunk to open so I could release the valve on the pump. No key slot in trunk! Video was indispensable.
Fantastic video. So well explained and helped out a lot! Thank you
Klaus you are a true gent!
My 4 series convertible roof stopped half way through its cycle due to passenger side rear window mechanism failure. The motor was okay but the mechanism drive wire had rotted due to a BMW known issue. The window cavity fills with water and should be monitored and frequently drained. Not easily done because they never considered the access to the built in drainage facility, they are hidden and covered with the side skirt trim.
To remove the window mechanism the roof must be fully open. I have read one guy being sent away by several garages because they were unaware of the knowledge you have kindly shared. BMW should hang their heads in shame!
Hi Carl!
I am hoping you can help
I have searched the whole internet and unable to find any help with this. My rear passenger window will not lower on my 4 series convertible and I cannot replace regulator as the roof needs to be completely down. Were you able to manually lower the roof with this video? Thanks
@@jerryrod21 Hi Jerry, you have my sympathy as this should never be a issue in the first place. I was lucky in that the motor jammed so the system assumed the window was down allowing me to open the roof. The knowledge shared in this video should still apply. The pressure relief valve is easily got at and you’ll need to release the latches as explained for the 3 series. Good luck I nearly sold my car due to the worry of not being able to drop or close the roof but I’m love most other aspects of the car. Make sure you clear those drains before you put your new mechanism in 🤞
@@carlkidd1262where is the 12v connector for locking???
Danke Klaus, dein Video war sehr hilfreich! Alles gute und beste Grüße aus good old Germany
Congratulations! Very intuitive, well done and very well filmed as well. In the case of my top doesn't work in the future, there'd be the option to hardwire a switch to the latch connector, so I could mannually open and close the top and after that, latch it using the installed switch.
The hydraulic pistons used to latch the trunk could be replaced by linear motors as well.
(Just thinking of keeping my E93 for long years ahead).
Klaus thanks for your clear precise video. Well done!
Thank you for this video. Great job. I've reached the point where I have to press the two pistons under the rear window to unlock the trunk lid. I did everything as you said. I released the pressure in the pump and unlocked the top, but these pistons cannot be moved back. My model is from 2012. Maybe there is some additional security. blockade? Regards, Dariusz.
Please help me if you can
Thanks for such a great instructional video, i've attempted this on my car which has roof stuck in trunk/boot and trunk doesnt move at all during roof activation. Unfortunately i cant get the pistons to move, one moves about a cm but retracts but the other (right) is rock solid so im assuming it is a mechanical jam on the locking mechanism. Is there any way of accessing this with the roof down? You can hear it engaging an actuator but then stops.
Mate seriously impressive tutorial great job
So well explained. I have just sold my E93 all because I couldn’t rely on the top always closing. I changed the Salmon pink relays and that worked for a while but I so lost faith in the thing closing when it meet the windscreen that last motor sound something it just wouldn’t do. I also noticed it didn’t like closing on any incline. If I knew about the 12v battery part I probably would have kept the car. Anyway it’s gone now but I so miss that car more than you will ever know. Maybe now I know more I might get the newer version. Thanks anyway sad but really helpful for me.
these tops are in while under warranty, otherwise just leave them up.
Thanks for the video but I managed to get the roof up and lock on top but I couldn’t manually move the locks on the side, they literally won’t budge. Also the windows will not go up now..do you have any advice please 😢
Thanks for taking the time Making this video. 😘
I am following this video for a F33 and everything was matching exactly as in the video, up until the part where I needed to unlatch the trunk by putting wires into connector. In F33 I do not see such connector, any idea where it might be?
Thank you for the great video!
But what can I do if the roof is stuck almost closed and the trunk is locked.
How can I unlock the trunk?
Perfect instruction video, thank very much..
Very useful, thank you very much!
Such a rewarding video..Thanks. but please if possible show the process of changing the hydraulic fluid.
Thanks! We are planning to produce and release a number of additional E93 videos this year (2020). If you subscribe to our channel, then you will be notified as new videos come out. Thanks for asking about a procedure to change the hydraulic fluid. Changing all the fluid in the system at the same time would be a fairly complicated task. We will give some thought to creating a reasonably easy procedure for partial fluid replacement.
@@TopHydraulics hi sir..can help me..e93 roof top problem ..when open roof is fully open and stuck in trunk ..trunk not close .pump still working but not close
@@mathazilan2011 did you figure out the problem?
@@mathazilan2011 could be the hydrolic valves
thank you klause. ive just bought myself a 320i hrd top 2007. so i am verry happy you have done this video. incase i need it. also my bmw is a right hand so is it the same procedure?
worked! thank you
Congrats!
@@TopHydraulics after two years sitting outside!
Nicely done Klaus - hope to see more ...
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It's very
straightforward and detailed, however I am having
quite a bit of trouble securing the rear coupling. When
I press down and pull it back, it stops half way and it
doesn't go any further. Do I have to release more
pressure on the pump or I need the Incredible Hulk to
give me a hand @. Any advice would be so grateful.
The rear coupling can be pretty hard to move all the way. Unless you have a personal connection to the hulk, try again when you feel extra strong.
@@TopHydraulics i had a guy that can deadlift 600lb and bench 400 and he couldn’t get it
@@srtprince6568 That's curious, maybe a valve inside the pump has moved such that it is blocking return flow from the cylinders on the rear couplings. There are lots of check valves in the pump and this could be a coincidence based on what has been moved before.
Let's proceed by temporarily taking off the rear hose on one of those cylinders, let's say #41 on the left cylinder. Re-attach the hose once both cylinders are fully extended.
To take off the hose, slide the retaining clip for the hose back until the hose is released, then pull up the hose. It takes a decent tap on the clip with a screwdriver or drift pin to loosen it up - lightly tap the screwdriver with a hammer. Stick the removed hose in a ziplock bag or similar, as there will be fluid coming out of it when you move the matching cylinder on the other side. Have paper towels or clean rags ready, as you will have a fraction of an ounce of fluid coming out of the cylinder that you took the hose off when you extend its shaft. It will squirt straight up when the cylinder moves.
Please let us know if this does the trick!
Good informative video and ok if the boot is empty ... getting the trim panel out of the boot is problematic if you have stuff stowed in the boot ... ie a space saver spare as I have .... no place to work on it inside under cover -- it's in the garage :-( .....
hello , can i do this process with the windows not fully down ? after i flip the rear module back , i cannot take the 3 pieces up. why ? are they latched down or what ?
Thankyou so much 🙏
Excellent tutorial. Thanks
What an amazing tutorial. Could not find anything about the hardtop problem. Still I haven't fixed the problem. It opened, always worked fine but now it does not close anymore. When trying to close the Roof, the trunk will open, but the roof will not rise out of the trunk. I can't hear any noise or pump, just a short and quick noise. I had a battery sign pop out on the screen a few days ago. Could it be the problem?
I'm desperate..
Thank you for this video
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It’s very straightforward and detailed, however I am having quite a bit of trouble securing the rear coupling. When I press down and pull it back, it stops half way and it doesn’t go any further. Do I have to release more pressure on the pump or I need the Incredible Hulk to give me a hand 😊. Any advice would be so grateful.
did you ever figure this out i’m having the same issue
Thank, you have save my life 😅
Hello Top H. Great video. One question at 11:11 what are the two circles for that are outside the bag hooks? I cant figure this out and its driving me crazy?! then threaded knubs? please explain!!
Thank you verrryyyyyyyy much .
You helpt me a lot 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This is ASMR worthy.
Extremely useful video! Might I ask, how can I test the "rooftop set up" (aka "roof top erected") hall sensor if I have access the the x0200 connector (the top one, above the 2 pin connector on the CTM(Convertible Top Module)?
I know it is connected to pins 13 and 26 (most bottom ones)
I measure 1.3Mohm on those pins
I also measure 1.3Mohm on the pins above (12 and 25 if I'm not mistaken) which is the "roofpack stowed" hall sensor.
My roof is in the trunk at this point.
My problem seems to be the "rooftop set up" hall sensor, since "it" outputs "1" even though the roof is in the trunk. But I am curios what would be a good way to test this hall sensor?
I already moved the roof and observed the values... this sensor's output does not change it's value (it shows 1 in ISTA, when top is erected, and when in the trunk as well)
The Hall sensor assemblies in the roof have a built-in magnet and an integrated circuit (IC) with an actual Hall sensor in it. The Hall sensor detects how easily a magnetic field around it changes, meaning it measures the magnetic permeability of the area within a few millimeters. This changes drastically as the cylinders’s steel piston comes near. Thus, the sensor measures whether the piston is near or not. The computer reads the sensor by sending a modulated signal. The IC changes impedance for modulated signals, not resistance for plain DC from your Ohmmeter. The indirect way to check whether a sensor is working is to measure the voltage on the two leads while the computer is sending the modulated signal. On other models, the voltage is either 0.8V or 3.5V depending on whether the piston is near the sensor - I don’t know what that voltage is on the E93. If you end up measuring it for several sensors on your car, then please let us know so that I can help the next DIY enthusiast better.
@@TopHydraulics So I measured for the "rear module open" hall sensor and it's 14.14V and 14.5V (forgot which is open and close, will come back with an update).
Engine was running.
@@TopHydraulics Also I managed to extract the rooftop errected hall sensor and do some measuremens.
it seams there is some unwanted "histeresis" going on. See videos in the link:
czcams.com/video/Va_AmL-CiU8/video.html
czcams.com/video/O3aARFA9EbE/video.html
hope I didn't "damage it" with the magnet. I think the senzor might have already been damaged OR it wasn't in the correct position on the cylinder... somehow... but rhen I might have damaged it with the magnet
@@bboysil Did you measure those voltages with the sensor attached? I would expect them to be a lot lower. Maybe there is an open circuit somewhere? For reference, you could measure the voltage going to another sensor.
@@TopHydraulics I measured with the senzor attached. I also measured similar voltages on another hall sensor without removing it from it's place (as stated in the previous message) everything was connected to the ctm, nothing left open.
car was running.
If you look at the 2nd video in my mesage( this one:
czcams.com/video/O3aARFA9EbE/video.html )
you can see that it detects switches from 1 to 0 as I play with it
Great video, Thank You
Is it standard for the windows to stay down while the top is in the off fold down position or will the windows roll up
Hello, thanks for the tutorial, I already followed all the steps because I ran out of battery, now how can I return everything to normal, can you help me?
Me to my brain: "just concentrate with the guy"
My brain: "Gordon Freeman in the fflllessssshhhhhhhhh"
Hahaha, thanks! Excuse my ignorance - I had to look up first who Gordon Freeman is. Fictional character, theoretical physicist, good guy. Well, I actually am a real physicist working on cars and we had fun making this video. Stay tuned, there is a lot more to come once we are past COVID related production delays...
@@TopHydraulics Hahahha actually that was a reference for "The G Man", a character in Half-Life, who speaks just like you do!!! Like same voice and way! All the time I was distracted by my brain 😅 Thanks for replying! Looking forward to see more videos!!
Here is what I mean
czcams.com/video/ECkMHSnC-Jw/video.html
(Skip to 00:20)
Thank you for this video. I must check the ROC (roll over controller), I think it's placed on the left side behind the panel you removed. Is it correct?
Hi thanks for the video followed the video and it was great
When I removed the back panel to get the connector I noticed a usb connector in the back do u know y this is there for ?
this is brilliant
Thank you for the great video! It was easy to follow. The hardest part would be the rear latches, I didn't have the long nose pliers and strength but I managed to modify a small G-clamp with a hard wire to attach to the yoke. it slowly pull latch close without using a lot of force.
I have a question hopefully you can give me the answer. My e93 roof was in the trunk. When I was trying to put it up, the rear trunk only went up halfway and stopped..
and the red light on the button started flashing. I needed to push the trunk down manually and the rear latches can be closed by the button. Do you know what will be the problem? the Relays? I used your tutorial to close the hardtop in the meantime,
Thank you.
Thanks for asking and thanks for sharing how you managed to move the rear latches without using the bent nose long reach needle nose pliers we used in our video. Your question is what the cause might be for the trunk lid pulling back only half way. Could be electrical or could be weak gas struts or could be a failing pump.
If it was electrical, then a sensor would be giving a signal that is illogical to the computer, the trunk lid would stop abruptly, always in the same position, and you would instantly get a warning message. Is this the case?
If the warning message is delayed because the pump keeps struggling to lift the trunk lid, that would be the pump "timing out".
@@TopHydraulics
The error message pop up straight away and I could not hear or see the pump struggled to work, the pump could lock the rear latches after i manually push the trunk down.
I did a scan today and these are the code:
A691 CTM Hall Sensor Rear End Module Open,
A6A3 CTM: Hydraulic Fluid Temperature Sensor,
A6A1 CTM: Drive For Hardtop Locking.
A6A0 A6A3 CTM: Relay (Because I removed them before?)
What do you think?
Regards,
Thank you.
@@speedimodels That's a lot of codes at the same time. If I understand the description correctly, then the pump should not have been hot at that point, yet you had a hydraulic fluid temperature code. The temperature sensor is in the pump's motor. The fault could be caused by the pump having to work too hard and overheating, or it could be caused by corrosion from water intrusion in your pump.
Does your pump look corroded once you take it out of the foam insulation?
Which codes come back after clearing them?
@@TopHydraulics The pump looks like new condition. I have a feeling that the hydraulic fluid temperature code caused by me keep trying to make it work?
A691 Hall sensor Rear end Module Open might need to test/replace the Hall sensor?
@@speedimodels is it possible to share how you modified the g clamp with the hard wire please? What size g clamp and what wire was used and the method. Having trouble using the 90 degrees pliers. Thanks in advance.
Anyone searching for instruction with convertible top up and window not rolling down. You need to use a diagnostic OBD tablet (I use Autel MqxiCOM mk808) plugs into car OBD port, go through menu to command car to put convertible top on service mode, once in service mode, you can open the convertible using the open button on the car. If top acting weird after replaced the window regulator, then you have to go through the menu to initialise power window regulators. I hope this helps anyone who got a broken window regulator flooded inside the rear quarter panel.
¡Your are the fuking master! thaks, i repaired alone with tese video.
How do you completely close the rear coupling. I’ve got it half way but I can’t pull it any further. Does it just take a lot of force?
Indeed, it takes a lot of force.
@@TopHydraulics is there no other way of pulling it? It won’t budge at all near the end I’m using 90 degree nose pliers. Feels impossible lol
Will this same procedure work on a 2017 F33?
Yes, except that the wires going to the electric front latch are different and that the pump looks a little different. The F33 pump has a black plastic cone on it that serves as a guide to insert a 4-mm Allen wrench for turning the manual actuation valve.
@@TopHydraulicsI can't find the 12v connector for the f33??
Hello Klaus! Thank you so much for this amazing how to video. Before undertaking this very difficult job, for a novice like myself. I wanted to ask you, I own a 2007 version, the top goes up and down "normally" (when it reaches its open position in the trunk it falls very hard). However, my issue is that, after opening the top I went to close it and now the windows won't roll up, I think it's not latching. Do you think trying the lock behind back seats will tell the computer the roof is locked ? So I can roll my windows up again? Thanks for any advice!
This has happen to me I can't roll my windows up ..
@@A8pri I still haven't been able to solve this. What I did was put the top completely down and once down I rolled all the windows up, after that, I started to raise the roof back up again, and as soon as I press the roof button I pressed the main windows button up, to stop the windows from rolling down. That way I managed to close the top with the windows up, but did it VERY CAREFULLY, looking at all the seals that wrap around the windows. This is only a fix so you don't leave the car open to the environment and have bugs/animals crawl inside. Hopefully this works, but I think a computer is needed to pin down the issue. Good luck, hope this works!
Yeah thank you very much but the problem is my car windows wont go up even when down now which is pretty bad and I'm just trying sell the car before gets worst
Mine is doing the same thing, did you find out the answer?
@@mrsmithsr.4502 as wel
Great video sir
Thank you, it was a labor of love. We know that this video will make a huge difference to the E93 community, so we put a lot of effort into it.
Hi mate, can I ask few questions regarding the roof?
Live saver thank you
I completed each step and all latches are locked. Now the windows will not go up and the top flashes red and beeps. How can I solve this problem?
Double check that the frame locks have been closed all the way - they are hard to move, as you know by now.
I own two 2011 328i Convertibles, one of which is an M series. Should I lubricate the hydraulic pistons that operate the top? If so, what's the best lubricant to use? I do not want to damage the seals.
Thanks for asking. There is no ned to lubricate the convertible top cylinders - simply operate the top from time to time.
What's that plastic trim clip at 11:23 called? Mine's missing and can't find it online for the life of me!
I can’t put the top back up & my car has completely locked the trunk so I can’t even access the pump!! I have no idea what to do.
Thee is a blade key in your key fob. Have you tried it yet to unlock the trunk lid?
Top tips you are top person
what about the front latches on windshield frame ? If electric is not working then i suppose you have to take off the plastic tab on headliner up just where the latches are and manually lock it as well?
Thanks for asking. Indeed, there is a way to manually lock and unlock the front. The front lock motor is in the top panel, center forward. There is a plug in the headliner that gives you access to the square drive pin that turns the locks. This pin is normally turned by the electric motor. It has an M4 internal thread. If you put an M4 screw into it and pull down hard and straight, then you can pull that shaft down such that it disengagaes from the electric motor and allows you to put a wrench on it.
I own a e93 328i it took some rain was not flooded.but I think some modules got water.my question is which of the modules I should be focused on?.the red light on the switch is blinking no green.
@@ezicarus8216 yes I think it did I didn't see the water rain damage was just told by the bodyshop.but I did buy a footwell model on eBay as soon as I plugged it in the roof moved and that was that nun after
I manually closed my top but it never locked…I had to change the alternator and the battery and salmon relays and the top goes up and down perfect but it doesn’t recognize it locks either when it goes up or down..any idea what it might be? Because I know it’s locked
Just to clarify: does the front lock electrically at the windshield upon closing, while you push the button?
Need assistance identifying the 12v connector plug for an f33! Please!
As you know, this video shows the manual operation of an E93 top. The main difference between the E93 top hydraulics and the hydraulics in your F33 4-Series are that the pump has a different pressure relief valve for manual operation and that the plug for 12 VDC going from the control unit to the front lock motor is in a different position. The pressure relief valve is an Allen bolt with a black plastic cone over it to guide the Allen wrench.
I haven’t seen the controller plugs on an F33 myself yet and can’t tell you where the one for the front lock motor is coming out of the controller. However, there shouldn’t be too many choices. The connector itself should only have two wires in it, heavy enough gauge to carry the current for the motor, and you might even be able to tell that those two wires eventually run up the top’s frame.
Please let us know exactly where the connector is on your F33 once you find it, to help out fellow F33 owners.
@@TopHydraulics thank you for the reply. I did in fact locate the Allen bleeder after combing through other posts.
As for the connector I did locate what appears could be it behind the rear seat, it has two plugs and is a 12v control module but the second plug actually has 3 wires, not two. One appears to be an extra ground strap. I applied 12v and do get noise but it didn't sound like the correct noise for the locking latch and I quickly cut it in fear it Operated the hydraulic system. I've been looking through documentation on Ista but with limited success.
@@ag6286 In that case, I must be mistaken about a 2-pin connector on the top control module that of the F33, sorry about that! You can still manipulate the front latch manually after disengaging the gear on it. Someone made a video on it (for an E93) before we published this video four years ago, so we didn't think we would needed to bother and putting voltage directly on the motor's wires appeared easier. I hope someone will point out soon which wires go to the front lock motor in the F33. Meanwhile, there is a way to manipulate the front lock manually, you just have to find it.
@@TopHydraulics ok so I found a good point for the unlock. The control module is located on top of the hydraulic motor. There is a white 42 pin connector. When unplugged, there are two long inputs in the upper right of the connector when looking at it. Pin 21 and 22. These are the 12v signal for the locking mechanism and tested successfully. Problem is when I went to loosen the bleeder valve, it doesn't appear to be an Allen key at all! I'm looking through insta for more info now
@@TopHydraulics scratch that it does fit, it was the type of tool I was using that prevented it from getting deep enough
Any ideas on how to close the couplings in the rear window sills? The ones you used the 90 degree tool on? I can't close them. Tried having someone holding it down and it just won't move when it is about an inch left on the cylinder. Any help would be appreciated.
It can take a lot of force.
@@TopHydraulics thank you for the reply and help. I wasn't able to do it but ...seriously thank you for your contribution to bmw convertible owners. I am sure it's helped many and helped learn a lot about my top. Thank you.
I had issue with Roof being stuck in trunk. Sounded like it had power but nothing was happening. I manually got the roof closed. However, now the windows wont go up. Any ideas? And it says hard top not locked when it is locked in place
Same did you find a solution?
You lost me back @ Hi folks !!!
Bmw should take a Note.
This is an excellent tutorial. My roof will successfully open and complete the cycle, followed by the windows closing. However, when trying to close the Roof, the trunk will open, but the roof will not rise out of the trunk. I believe that perhaps a microswitch is not working correctly. Thank you very much for the education.
Thanks for asking. Does it seem like the pump is trying to lift the top at all?
@@TopHydraulics Thanks for your response. No, I can no longer hear the motor working after the trunk lid is fully extended. Previously, I know that perhaps it is low on fluid because it used to take a long time to complete the close cycle. I will try to use the description to manually close the roof. Again. Thanks
Harold Alexander I’m having the same issue did you end up fixing it? And if you did how did you.
I did that but cant roll my windos down
Question... I have a 2007 e93 335i and my soft close on my trunk stopped working and it keeps saying my trunk lids open cause it’s not pulling it down the extra centimeter. Does anybody here know the cause of it??
The soft close (last centimeter or so) is electric, moved by a motor in the back of the trunk lid. Can you hear it engaging?
I don’t believe so I don’t hear it engaging at all. Could I hear both outcomes tho just in case?
Same issue it’s annoying
I eventually fixed my issue it has something to do with the soft close mechanism itself it’s just held on by 4 bolts and plug ins I bought the whole unit for 200 bucks on eBay
So no help for me, my top is stuck in the halfway up position with the three panels still stacked on top of each other and there is no way into the trunk, there is no exterior lock to use the blade key on.
If you look at minute 29:55 that is where my top is stuck. BMW service just as they were closing Saturday at 4 suggested I lock the car and leave it locked for at least 10 minutes in the hope of resetting, or rebooting the system, but that did not work. The windows will not work (except using the blade key in the exterior locks) and the trunk will not work either. I have tried every combination of inserting and ejecting the fob from the socket in the dash, as well as multiple hits on the top button. I would disconnect the batterey which would reset the car but the battery is in the trunk and I cannot open that.
Maybe one of your cables are broken!?
@@ivohanifl455 Ivo H., it was a hall sensor that cost about $25 but unfortunately it is part of the hydraulic ram that raises and lowers the top so the final bill was $1,997.23.
@@markwalker3499 Hi Mark, I have the same issue, do not you have any immages of it?
@@pepacipra5413 No. not that I can post here, but it was at the point where when you are putting the top up or down where it rests with the two panels up but still on top of the other.
I had to have the car taken on a flatbed to the nearest dealership quite a ways. They almost would not do it because the towing receptacle the tow truck secures the car with was in the trunk and that could not be opened during the failed operation of the top. They ended up taking the car against the rules.
$2,000. It actually was a $25 hall sensor that failed, but that particular sensor is integrated as part of the hydraulic ram so you cannot replace the sensor without replacing the entire hydraulic ram setup. BMW has on a few bad engineering malfunctions but this is certainly a doozy. Having a $2,000 repair bill over a failed $25 hall sensor is just insane.
@@markwalker3499 Thank you Mark for your comment. You are right, thats insane. Even the change had to be tricky. I will try to open it manually and check it, I heard, that could be also a wrong position of the sensor. But as you mentioned, nothing works - trunk openning, windows,.. it stucked somewhere within openning process.
Does my 2008 120i have the same hyrdo pump.
The E88 1-Series has a much simpler top system. Here is the E88 pump on our website: www.tophydraulics.com/bmw-1-series-e88/322-1959-rebuild-service-for-e88-hydraulic-pump.html#/30-core_exchange-send_your_parts_to_top_hydraulics_first
With my top up the right rear shell starts to rattle over time when going over bumps. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Compare left side and right side to see what is different - probably some rubber bumper dislodged.
after you have done everything, don’t you need to close the pressure relief valve?
Thanks for asking. The pressure relief valve plays no role in keeping your top secured in the up or down position if it has been properly latched. Obviously, if you want to use the pump next to move the top again, then you will have to close the valve. Leave the valve open or remove the 50A fuse if you want to avoid accidentally moving the top with the pump...
Top Hydraulics
Thanks for the video just followed the video and it was great but can you tell me why I’ve got a usb connection behind the back seat panel which I only uncovered when I followed the video
@@richyhowell Congrats on manually moving your top! I don't know why you found a USB connection behind the back seat.
Top Hydraulics ok thanks
Do you recommend to change the 2 salmon relays on the motor ?
@@richyhowell Depends a little on the symptoms. If the motor has burned out on your top pump (i.e., blown a fuse), then you clearly want to replace the relays, as well. Generally, it is good preventative maintenance on a car this age, and you can easily do it yourself. The E93 pump pulls a lot of current, which is hard on the relays. Thus, older relays can spot weld themselves at the contacts and keep the motor running even though the computer told it to stop, which ultimately makes the pump motor burn out and results in the need for a pump rebuild. The unfortunate part is that BMW uses relays for which there is no standard replacement, so you are stuck using BMW relays.
this video show how to manual close..not show how manual open..do u have a video how to manual open the roof?bmw f33 428i
Did we not show the manual opening process sufficiently in this video? It starts at about this point: czcams.com/video/2hDdwukqR4g/video.html
Manual operation of the F33 top is very similar to manual operation of the E93 top, as some mechanic friends have told me. There may be some diferences in the trimaround the back seat and you would have to identify which wires from the controller power the front lock. If the front of the top still unlocks with the push of your convertible top button, then this video made on an E93 will show you practically everything you need to know.
@@TopHydraulics I have an 2016 F33 420 and I am struggling to identify which wires from the controller power the front locks, controller is in the boot/trunk. Could you advise which ones? I have a failed rear window motor and need to manually lower the top to access the motor.
@@55smokey Thanks for asking. I don't know which wires control the front lock in an F33 and it would help the F33 community a lot if you could help with identifying them. The function is similar, the top is almost identical, but the controller is different in the F33 compared to the E93 in this video. The two wires going to the front lock are fairly heavy gauge compared to almost all the others. It is my understanding that the F33 controller does not have a separate connector for the front lock wires, so you will have to find them based on gauge and routing. They should be next to each other in one of the connectors, and maybe you can rule out their competition based on where the other heavier gauge wires are going. Once you have found suitable candidates, you may want to first Ohm those two to Ground, in case they are some kind of power supply cables to the controller. Then take the bold step to hook up power to them and see what happens...
@@55smokey Hi David! Were you able to sort this issue? I am having exact same problem and unable to fix window regulator as I cannot lower the roof on my 4 series! Any help would be highly appreciated.
Will the windows go up after manually closing the top?
No I tried it and don't seem to work
@@A8pri Didn't seem to work? Like... what do you mean? It either worked or it didn't...
Not it locks good but then the dash says it's not locked and won't let me open windows or the back is it possible I hit some sensor?
Don't forget to show this on an E46!
It's easy to do for e46
Fuck I remember when my old E46 325ci top went out that was annoying af
My windows won’t go up though after I have manually locked it. Help?
The windows will go up only if you have latched the top completely, including the frame locks behind the rear windows.
@@TopHydraulics I didn’t unlock them. I skipped that part. My top would still come half way up. So put it up half way, loosened the hydraulic pump, then manually closed it, then put 12 V into the actuator to lock it.
Is that the problem that I skipped that part?
@@joshuarodriguez667 You still need to lock those rear frame locks, as the pump has unlocked them when it started the closing sequence.
@@TopHydraulics okay thanks!
Everything worked great but all 4 of my windows won’t roll up or down
That is normally caused by the computer not getting the signal that the top is fully up and latched or fully down and latched.
@@TopHydraulics any ideas or pointers on what I should do and thanks for the help you saved me and my wallet
@@TopHydraulics turns out I skipped a step thanks for the help
@@godly8320 what was the step you skipped? is it latching the trunk lock? (12V on that small connector??)
@@husseinel-hajj7818 I honestly don’t remember but watch the video closely it was something minor
mejor uso el boton.... (broma) buen video.
I live in constant fear of the moment, when I need to do this.
I didn't before, but I do now!
I close it mechanically, but the window doesn't close anymore
In most cases, this means the rear frame lock cylinders have not been moved far enough to trigger the sensor.
@@TopHydraulics If you can show me a photo, which sensor are you talking about? 🤗
@@user-by4jn1yi4g I cannot add a photo of the sensor to my reply, but here is the relevant part in the video: czcams.com/video/2hDdwukqR4g/video.html Make sure the shafts on these cylinders have been fully retracted.
@@TopHydraulics When there are pistons at the rear trunk, I have closed them both completely. It also closes mechanically, but it says that there is no permanent closing and I don't have to close the windows either.
@@user-by4jn1yi4g Maybe the top is not fully latched at the windshield?
Please do a video on replacing both rear gas springs (Part number: 54377128764) that with age cause the top the slam down into the trunk. Not part number: 51247129215, as this is for the trunk lid only and are very easy to replace.
Thanks for the suggestion. Indeed, that video is on our to-do list for this year and we have a nice setup for it. With the proper tool from BMW or with some improvisation on a standard tool, the job is pretty easy.
@@TopHydraulics No problem! I look forward to the video. I subbed already 😁
hello , can i do this process with the windows not fully down ? after i flip the rear module back , i cannot take the 3 pieces up. why ? are they latched down or what ?
why the 3 parts are stuck in and cannot put it in the stacked position?