The Bambu Lab P1S Is Almost Perfect at $699. Almost.
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2023
- The Bambu P1S 3D printer is the machine that most of us have been wishing for. A complete right-out-of-the-box experience for every level of user, with fast, incredible prints. #BambulabGlobal #BambuLab #Bambu #bambulabP1
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The "Generic PLA" preloaded settings have a Max Volumetric Speed of 12, instead of the 21 speed setting for Bambu PLA. You can "speed up" your prints by adjusting that setting to get it closer to the Bambu filament speeds, but it may impact print quality depending upon the brand.
Eric here: Great info to know for those future speedy prints. Thanks!
My P1S with AMS comes tomorrow. I've been getting familiar with Bambu Studio. I don't understand why all the filament profiles are the same. Bambu says silk should be printed hotter and slower, but the silk profiles are the same as the generic PLA profiles.
I can only imagine because the X1 is pretty darn close to perfect. Love that printer.
Regarding the stainless parts, you can get the full hardened steel hot end assembly for the p1s, and the hardened steel extruder gears for less than $60 bucks before shipping.
could you send the link? or yo mean its an option when buying directly from bambu lab shop?
I glad I got P1S - the print speed and quality is jaw dropping! Top notch craftsmanship! The whole 3D printing experience is on another level from competition. No regrets from cancelling Prusa Mk4.
The Prusa looks like a bargain bin special from 10 years ago comepared to the futuristic Fridge of the Bambu
True but there is a reason it's still close to 800 assembled, it's realizable and support which is hard to find in 3d printers and adds to costs. That support isn't free or cheap which factors into the price.
I also like their new mk4 max (or whatever it's called) that has four print heads which solves the filement waste issue from AMS. The problem is it's 3500K US which is outside the price of mere mortals. Considering it has 4 print nozzles, one for each color filements, it's not shocking though.
The problem is Prusa did such an amazing job with the MK3 it's hard to justify any of their newer models. The upgrade to price ratio makes the MK3 the best value still IMO.
Is it loud? I hear its extremely loud.
@@rabbidjeremy9193 No, like any 3d printer it's not silent and it depends on what filament is being used. The fans are by far the loudest to me outside maybe when it's at its fastest, which is usually mostly for infill.
They added a feature during calibration a few months back that optimizes the motors to be as quiet as possible and it works. Certainly doesn't make it silent but way more quiet then any beds longer I used
What you get with the X1 that you don't get with the P1
Hardened steel nozzle, easy to upgrade
Hardened steel extruder, easy to upgrade but I question if it's needed
ARM MCU running a full custom Linux Distro
A camera that doesn't suck, P series camera is 1gps
The screen, and looking at their site this may add more than I thought as a replacement screen is 150 dollars although it's obviously overpriced.
Better metal/build quality although I question if this makes a difference or not
Lidar, which I read the other day doesn't work with PEI plates, I could be mistaken on that so I would research that if LIDAR matters to you although it really doesn't seem to do much.
No 3D printer is completely silent outside possibly resin printers but while they have better print detail they are limited in print size and you have to deal with the chemicals. I've never heard one so I can't say how quiet they are. It's the quietest printer I owned or heard running in person.
@@rabbidjeremy9193 Its definitely loud, there is a silent mode too though. Regardless, in the same room would bother a light sleeper but I don't notice it much behind a closed door
Great review. Keep up the good work guys....👍👍
My Creality V3 SE is outperforming my Bambu P1S by a longshot. These guys are paid to say good things about the printers.
Thanks for the info
Ok, great video, how much is the noise level? Thank you
Their slicer is amazing. I use it over Cura to operate my ELEGOO
i really hope i get this for christmas 🎅 🎄 🎁
I got the P1s also. When I was picking out my printers, I was stuck between the Creality ender or the P1S and after reading the reviews I discovered that people have had printing troubles with the ender printer, but with the P1s the reviews are phenomenal because many users have a really great things to say about it so I chose the P1S
Currently got a Prusa mini. I print functional parts need more bed size considering either a mk3/4 prusa or a p1s, main concerns are print tolerance quality and noise? How accurate is the bambu
The way this unit is pictured, what are the approximate dimensions?
Was wondering if you had compared it to the QIDI X-Plus 3. Slightly bigger build volume (280*280*270), corexy, heated champer all for the same proce as the P1S. No AMS but then again the max has a bigger build volume of 325*325*315mm although unsure of the price. Has good reviews bit QIDI has a mixed track record also.
Is there a better option for the same or similar price? Asking because I’m looking to get one soon.
What Amazon filament recommends for p1s from Amazon
Does the p1s shake much while printing?
How come the X1 printed so much quicker?
How is it possible that you have different PLA printing times when these printers are mechanically the same?
I guess like a lot of folks, we don't have dedicated areas to house this printer so they end up on a desktop or in a cupboard somewhere, I would have liked if you had compared noise levels of the printer against the other rivals you mentioned. I also think I saw a comment about the need to leave the door open if printing PLA. Again I assume if this is still the case and the door has to be left open then this again would increase the noise of the printer. Any comments ?
So, I know this is old and you probably found an answer, but PLA is not bad for you. I would keep a good ventilated area, though as I say this, I'm in a 6ft by 4.5 ft closet office with an open door and fan with the printer right next to me in a case. I'm constantly printing while working so.
card board spool are now compatable with the ams you wrong there mine as 4 card board spool working np at all
Why do the printers have different benchy times? Is that just due to how their stock benchies came pre-sliced? I was under the impression that the differences between these printers wouldn't really affect typical print speeds/times.
I'm under the same impression as you. Pretty sure the P1P and the P1S can go just as fast as the X1C. This video makes no sense. I sliced benchy's in Bambu Slicer for the P1S and the X1C and the times are identical...
How is customer service?
Why oh why would the X1 be so much faster at printing a benchy? It has the exact same motion system and cooling as the P1S, so the P1S should even be able to beat the X1 if you let the latter tune flow via the lidar which would take some extra time. Somehow I get the impression the P1S is artificially slowed down in this test ...
at 13 minutes they didnt run calibration with full calibration its bout 17 minutes on x1 the p1p. bambu slows down cause no preinstalled aux fan but all 3 with pla will print same speeds if change setting in slicer
Great video! 👍 However, I need to share my experience. I was shipped a broken Bambu Labs printer, and it feels wrong that I'm the one having to fix it after paying for a brand-new, working machine. Support took 3 days to get back to me, and after a week of troubleshooting, we discovered it was an AC Power board issue. Instead of sending a replacement, they're only repairing the faulty one, and they completely ignored my request for a new printer. It might look like a great product, but their customer service is a letdown. I'm seriously considering a PRUSA for my next purchase.
I don’t understand your complaint. They’re fixing the problem and one less item is going to the land fill because they’re repairing it instead of replacing it.
@@nathanp3366 the problem is that I paid $1,600 usd and received a broken 3D printer. I’m not responsible for their quality control mistakes.
@@nathanp3366they can repair it themselves, and cross ship a new one. Still no waste and you still get what you paid for.
Clearly someone has never dealt with PRUSA supports these days 😮💨
@@shawninreach why ship a fragile item across the country back and forth and risk breaking the whole thing when all they need to do is ship him a new logic board to fix his entire product? You're a muppet. You know nothing about the real world.
Have to correct you as you state the carboard spools are not compatible. Actually they run fine in a AMS, its just not recommend as the cardboard fibers over time could clog up the rollers. As well the reusable spools are for bambu lab refills and some other manufactures as there are many that will not fit the spool holder,
Eric here: Yikes! You are absolutely correct, a lot of cardboard spools are compatible. I should have been clearer that Bambu really warns people off since the cardboard spools sometimes don't get enough traction, and they tend to shed fibers and stuff, which can really mess up a $350 upgrade. I just printed a few corner pieces today and I'm trying them on some Inland cardboard spools. So far, so good. Thanks!
Actually in my opinion the main compeditor of the Bambu printers is the Qidi x-plus 3 (new version). If you do not need the AMS of course. The printbed made of casted aluminium is legendary. The activly heated chamber makes it ideal for filaments like ABS, ASA, PC and PA12CF.
Interestingly the Qidi X-plus 3 and the bigger brother x-max 3 have a filament cutter in the printhead. There is no sense in doing so, exept if you need perfect tip on unloading for an automatic filament changer... So I hope we will see a surprise there soon(TM).
The K1 and K1 plus actually have no special features to compete with Bambu or Qidi. Neither AMS, nor activly heated chamber. Its to late to little. Does not mean they are bad printers, but you are limited in functions. Of course a good choice if you do not need the additional features - but with the quite low difference in price I wouldn't choose it. at least not as first or second printer.
Eric here: Good call! Qidi hasn't really been on my list of printers lately and I don't remember seeing this one. As far as comparisons, it and the K1 are faster overall, but without the AMS, the P1S and P1P are really close, especially considering their features overall. Thanks for the insight!
Indeed, summer 2023 and Bambu’s competitor is Qidi. Each with a few better features and all with great prices!
Going to be very interesting to see who releases what in their next round (-8
Yah I just ordered a X1C and if Qidi came out with an AMS I what have bought that hands down over bambu. #1 Klipper, and open source-ish #2 higher quality from what I can see (negligible), especially in anything hotter than PETG
@@jamesdeclan7538 Actually the Rev2 of the Qidi x-max 3 does not have a filament cutter in the printhead. Also on unload the filament can easy tangle inside the extruder - the printer therefore tells you to pull the filament manualy on unload. The first time I unloaded I did not pull enough and had to disassemble the extruder (wich is quite easy).
So no way to add an Enraged Rabit Carot Feeder with the stock hotend.
I upgraded the hotend to a Revo. Because of Klipper this was not very hard to do - but as the original hotend has a thermocouple, not a thermistor I had to add a wire to the cable chain and a 3th MCU (an old Creality silent board). It works well.
With a Revo High-Flow Nozzle same problem on unload. But with a Revo standard or ObXidian I get quite a nice filament tip.
So now I can choose for Revo High-Flow for single non composite material, standard for multimaterial or ObXidian for abrasives. Have not assemled and tested my ERCF yet.
However, I neither realy like the ERCF nor the AMS due to the long time needed for filament changes. Also the cut&waste Bambulab uses creates a lot of waste.
One of the reasons for cut&poo actually is the still weak filament tip on unload gets deformed on unload. On High-flow nozzles this is quite a problem.
However, imho the best solution would be to disengage the feedergears in the printhead on unload. As the MMU-feeder pulls the filament anyway, with a disengaged feeder in the printhead on unload the gears wouldn't deform the tip. So much faster unload would be possible.
In the AMS every filament has his own feeder permanently engaged to the filament, even while printing. The feeders inside the printhead and inside the AMS are sychroniced by the "filament-buffer". Inside the filament buffer is a slider with a spring and magnet and a hall-effect sensor. The AMS feeder pushes the filament to the printhead until the spring compresses and the slider moves. As soon as the printhead takes filament, the spring decompresses, slider moves back - and the AMS-feeder deliveres more filament.
So while printing the active AMS-feeder is sychroniced to the printhead.
If you combine theese principle, you could make a filament changer with much higher speed. Instead shareing one feeder in the MMU2, ERCF etc. use one permanently engaged feeder for each filament. Use a hub as near as possible to the printhead (on a CoreXY where the tube enters the chamber, on a bedslinger directly on the printhead (like the A1).
Unload the filament with printhead feeder disengaged (fast). As soon as filament leaves the hub, reengage the extruder feeder and load next filament. The printer can print imeditly (still, waste tower, wipe2infill or wipe2object needed for cleaning nozzle, but no cut off filament has to be pooed).
While the printer allready prints with new filament, the filament tip could be cut externaly.
So a filamentchange could be reduced to 25sec or less instead 90(AMS) or 80(AMS light).
While I do not the skills to design such a filamentchanger myself, I still hope someone with more skills than me will design such an fast MMU for Klipper.
Actually such an external feeder synchroniced to the extruder would be usefull even without filament changer - to reduce the load for the extruder. At the moment the extruder has not only to push the filament through the nozzle, but also to pull the filament from the spool, maybe even through an bowden. With an external synchroniced feeder this load is devided and the extruder has much less load to handle. Actually the Bambulab A1 with AMS light, which profits from such a solution, uses even a Nema 11 for the printhead...
Actually my Prusa Mini with Shepa has problems printing out of a drybox resulting in inconsistent extrusion, while printing from a spoolholder with ballbearing it works fine. I think sometimes the load for pulling the filament from the spool is underestimated.
Can you do a video about how to maintain this printer? Like how to clean the nozzle for example and this particular golden build plate, do you need to clean it with just water or 70% alcohol? And should you use glue stick or do you just have to clean the bed with a tobel to make it stick better for the first layer? I'm new to 3d printing and would love to have a video about how to keep it clean and stuff. :)
Thans for the video!!
There are a few options for maintenance. Bambu lab has a yt channel with video on cleaning and steps for maintenance. There is also a wiki on their site for written guides.
As for cleaning the build area it depends on what you are printing. IPA is fine for the most part it should not be your only cleaning regiment for the build surface. Warm soapy water(dish detergent is generally fine) should be used if your parts arent sticking. Residue from filament, finger prints, dust etc will build up and IPA alone wont break it up.
As for glue stick it's typically optional but that also depends on what you are printing. Some filament can/will attach to well to a build plate and having a barrier can help release the part. I personally use vision miner nano polymer that is a adhesive/release agent that works wonders and does not leave a tacky glue stick residue on the parts.
Eric here: Great info! Thanks!
@@ashleys3dprintshop Thanks a lot!!
@@lisegroeneveld7383 😀Glad i can help.
I've never seen the P1 and X1 have different speeds, especially so dramatic. Is this for real?
Is the extra $400 for the X1 carbon over the P1S worth the extra? I would like to see a video comparing the two and whether it is or not and the advantages of the X1 over the P1s.
Based on the videos i have watched not really. Most people have a hard time determining which print came from what printer. Honestly the touch screen, better camera, hardened steel gears and more memory is probably a bigger upgrade than lidar which just does flow calibration and there are other methods of figuring that out. Different filements have different flow ratios bit slicers already have this baked in and the values can be adjusted. There are videos on here if you ise the right search terms. Just ordered the P1S. Seems like the best bang for your buck. Honestly the kidar kimd of seems like a gimnick at this point. Even Bambu Labs doesn't really mention it anymore. Search for "Bambu P1S vs X1C - Which 3D Printer Is The Best?" For details on why its not worth it IMO.
@@JoshFisher567did you get the ams with your p1? Can’t decide if it’s worth it on a budget. I’ll already have to upgrade gears and extruder to print cf pa6.
@@carsonhunt4642 Yes but at the time it was only a 100 dollars more than just getting the P1S so it was kind of a no brainier. I know prices have changed since then
I will say it's nice to have, even when not doing multicolor prints. I'm not sure what they want for the P1S/AMS combo but I would say it's convenient but unless you are actually doing multicolor prints then it probably isn't worth it.
The other good thing about the AMS is when using Bambu filement there is an RFID chip and the AMS reads the type and color of the filement and uses the appropriate profile. So if it's PLA it sets the bed to 55 and prints at 220, if it's ABS it heats the plate up to 90 and prints at around 260. The correct colors and type of filement show up in the Bambu app.
I would also look at the price of just an AMS vs a combo. If the difference isn't huge you can always buy an AMS later. If it's 100 dollars or more it goes back to if you plan on doing multi color prints IMO.
I have the p1p
4:25 this makes no sense, would love a deep dive into the time differences and what causes them
7:27 hey my tevo tornado!
I think that they would sell more printers with a decent screen. The A1 ha a better screen than the p1s.
I spy something really cool in the background haha :)
Eric here: Well, there is the HueForge print... and the Darth... and... Oh! ThreadBoards!!! I had to stop printing them to get this video, but hopefully more to come. Thanks for watching!
@@The3DPrintingZone haha yep! Looks great! (more attachments coming soon)
They did not start the slicer from scratch. They took prusa slicer and put a skin on it.
If cheaper is your path then Bambu by all means..
Can I lie and just say it's a bambu fillament?
For the ams? You dont have to use Bambu filament. You will have to set it manually in the software.
Is it still 700 dollars? It's 950 now
700 with no AMS, 950 with AMS. Since the AMS module is 350 you save 100 bucks if ordered together so it really depends if you want AMS or not. You can always get the bass printer for $700 and get the AMS module later for $350 if you wanted.
There are SO many clever people out here, that got so much knowledge. Why have NO ONE suggested swapping out the mainboard on either P1P or P1S with a better one?
Then we could have:
1. Wired LAN Connection
2. Touch Screen!
3. Away, better Webcam.
4: You name your thing here
I know this can be done, it could be done on those Ender 3 and many others, so why not this one?
When someone comes out with a resin printer that isn't toxic or dangerous... dial me up!
@@leanja6926Yeah.. I realize this is FDM.. and I already have an FDM ... but the print times are waay too long... and they lack the resolution that Resin provides. Guess we are still 5 years out for a SUPERFAST printer without toxins.... that does super high resolution at home.
@@pesto12601 i am assuming u dont own a corexy machine
@@ufoslattt9582no.. just a standard creality...
Theres no reason the x1 would be that much faster afaik, that seems like an error
What about their privacy policy?
It’s a 3D printer? What privacy could you care about? Your email? Use a burner one.
That's TikTok buddy. You're unimportant.
Oh no they're selling my data just like every other company oh no!
You also don't have to connect to bambu cloud and still have all functionality over LAN. It's their mobile app and remote viewing that rappears to require using their cloud service. The point is, you don't have to send any data to bambu,, you just lose some of the mobile app functionality, that's all.
I can do everything with Home Assistant with no data sent to bambu, I just have to use my own camera and not the built in one which considering the quality of the P1S camera it may be a better option.
Lastly, how many cheap Chinese printers hook up to the Internet these days with little to no documentation of what data they collect?
@@fatal510once its on your network it could easily have software to acan your network and send back sensitive info. There have been super cheap chinese products rhat do this but most dont last for that reason. Also, if bambu wanted to stay in business, they would never do that. Security teams test these devices to see what data is being sent and if it was doing anything outside their security policy it would be a PR nightmare and could potentially bamkruptt them.
Considering how fast their printers are selling they have zero reason to do this
Also, how many peinters are mode in China that connect to WiFi or LAN these days? I would be more worried about the sub 250 printers, if any, not this one. Lastly, it doesn't have to connect to bamboo cloud to function over LAN. You just lose some of the remote functionality in the mobile app stuff if it's not connected.
Am I missing something? You keep stating 699 but only prices I see is 900+
I don't think the screen, camera, and lack of door sensor are valuable reasons to poo poo this model.
Bambu is awesome, but they are not the 'inventors' voron and klipper has been doing this for a while and bambu has just stolen from the community without returning anything of value. Even their slicer is just a copy of prusa
900 dollars now 👎
Bambu printers are far from perfect and seems some stuff on this video is very inaccurate. You guys need to do your research before just throwing up a video.
The CEO of Bambu lab considered their first printers a 55/100 which is insane since they are easily some of the best printers available. Which goes to show you how lacking he rest of the field really is. What is "very" inaccurate?
The video is (mostly)factually accurate.
Some things missed are, you can add hardened steel extruder/nozzle.
Camera differences between the p1p/p1s is 720p. 0/5fps vs X1C 1080p 24fps
Carboard spools are not recommended but they can work in the AMS. you can also print rim adapters or use electrical/painters tape around the rim too.
Most filament can be set to the "bambu preset" for up a general flow rate of 21mm/s vs 12mm/s for generic filament. It is recommended to test your particular filament.
The lidar is missing from the p1p/p1s and for the longest time folks thought it did not do anything which is incorrect. Lidar is used for bed leveling, first layer detection, filament calibrations.
The X1C just dropped an recent update which runs auto calibrations(K values) for filament. You can run up to 4 test patterns checks at a time and save profiles for the filament. Otherwise that is a manual affair without lidar.
Eric here: Thanks for watching!
@@No0o0o0o0o0u might as well give up thats all that lil ape does is track every bambu lab video just to bash it as much time as he spends on anything bambu I swear it must be his job
@@jamesharris9894 Just correcting his misinformation sweatheart. At least I owned a bambu before so I have experience. He spreads false info about prusa yet has never owned one.
Awww, poor guy. Someone is feeling inferior.