Bike carb conversion BENEFITS and DRAWBACKS
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- čas přidán 29. 09. 2018
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So today, while were waiting for my damn brake parts to arrive back from the galvanization plant we are going to answer whet are the benefits, advantages and drawbacks and we are going to answer whether a bike carb conversion is right for you. And we are going to do it with a self-assessment quiz that you can all take together with me.
But before we do the quiz let's get something out of the day. Let's just very quickly talk bike carbs vs car carbs such as twin Weber or Solex carburetors. There are of course many different types of car carburetors, but in general, modern motorcycle carburetors such as my cbr600 f4 carburetors are a lot cheaper to purchase, simpler to tune as they have less jets and less adjustments, they also generally cope better with height difference and cold starts, have better mpg and are cheaper and easier to service as they have less parts and components.
Question 1: Is the car you want to bike carb convert your daily driver?
If it is, doing a bike carb conversion is most likely going to end up costing you too much money in the long run. Modern bike carbs might be capable of decent mpg, but it will never be as good as computer controlled fuel injection. Mr. Venturi may have a cool surname but his effect is no match for fancy pants computer circuitry.
Question 2: Is your fuel injection system functioning without faults or any issues?
This was a really big factor for me. Yes my car came with fuel injection from the factory, but it's a 30 year old system that I could NEVER get to run right. My stupid flap style air flow meter was often acting up and my cold start system never ran right and was unfixable. Also because my car is 30 years old and went through several previous owners, some which were cheap and kind of stupid, I had the wrong kind of distributor and the wrong throttle body for my intake manifold and a bunch of other parts takes from different 4ages that I could not get to work properly. I troubleshot the engine a million times and read the factory service manual hundreds of times and asked dozens of questions of forums...but I always had some sort of issue. The performance was weird, the idle erratic, there was always a vacuum leak or two. And this is the problem with fuel injection......when it goes wrong...it could be a lot of things. Is your throttle position sensor good? Or maybe it's the air flow meter? Or maybe it's the temperature sensor? Or maybe it's the EGR? Or maybe it's the injectors? Or maybe it's the idle air control valve? Or maybe the ECU is losing it? And then you got to test all of them because they all have similar symptoms and then you got to take apart half of your engine bay and then you replace a sensor and it's still the same.
Question 3: Are you all about horsepower gains and dyno charts?
If you are then the charms of carburation will be wasted on you. Bike carbs noticeably change the character of an engine...but it's unlikely that they will add any horsepower to a modern multi point injection system. They might like 5 or 10 horsepower to a 30 year old multi point fuel injection system, but you will not gain any power if you do a bike carb conversion on something built in 2007 or so. They WILL add power to engines that had single point injection or engines that used some lame old fashioned carbs.
Question 4: Do you like eargasms and responsive engines?
Carburetors sound better than fuel injection. You can object but I won't listen. Yes itbs come close but it's still not quite the same. Maybe it's the imperfect combustion of carbs maybe it's something else, but if you ask me they are marvelous little throaty baritones that can sing the sweetest songs of internal combustion.
Question 5: Do you like fiddling with things, want to develop a 6th sense, hate laptops and enjoy time travel?
Carbs are friends of gearheads. They require almost zero special tools to be maintained and tuned. They speak to the visceral side of the gearhead and will help you develop a sort of a sixth sense that will tell you when carbs are running right and when they are not. When you tune them right you will simply be able to tell and it will be a true joy. If you can relate to this experience and want it for yourself carbs can take you on an amazing journey that will put you into the shoes of laptop free generations of hotrodders and racers of old that had more fun with a screwdriver than you can imagine.
Check out the video for the answer sheet and add up to see how many points you scored and whether you should do a bike carb conversion?
Clocl stock footage credit: • Time-Lapse Clock FREE ...
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I had the same problem with the fuel injection of my ae86's 4age, and definitely the best option was to make it carbureted. but I used a conventional car carburetor, but I do not lose the hope of one day putting bike carbs or weber.
good video, thanks and good luck!
I'm with you on all points. Can't wait to get off my current project t and back to something old school.
Man,your videos are making me think more and more about one of my old ideas and with all informations from you , it starts come together .
I was thinking about something small , something nimble , something what i can take to twisty mountain passes and have some fun . And I make up my mind .
Sweet just made my mind up! Purely for the eargasam that was my whole reason to attempt this on my 1.8 8v soon to be in my caddy :) I Mean who doesn't love the sound of all that air getting sucked into the engine and everyman loves to have a little fiddle from time to time ;)
That's answered a lot of questions in video, nice one. Thanks 👍
To be honest you’ve inspired me to go with Gsxr throttle bodies over Weber style throttle bodies on my Suzuki Vitara swapped Samurai/Sj413 because of the cost. I did a rough estimate of the total cost of the car throttle bodies and associated parts would run me over $4000 not including the Haltech and dyno tuning. If I were to run a similar setup with the bike throttle bodies it would only cost about less than half including the ecu and tuning.
Lmfao you clean the tables like me
Best way to clean tables!
I have to make that change in my 3tc motor thanks
@@d4a yes
Thanks for the vid theres not alot of information out there for people looking into bike carbs. You have convinced me to stick with fuel injection even though mine definitely doesnt work right. But to be fair the sound you get from carbs has less to do with the carbs them selves and more to do with the fact that you have significantly shortened your intake therefore letting more sound out. Then again its difficult to make a manifold that short when you have a throttle body to deal with.
i got a honda civic eg with a d13b2 and im converting it from its original single carb to a set of zzr1100 carbs, and im swapping the head with a reconditioned one with larger valves and i will be polishing the new head before it goes in, cant wait to see how it turns out :D
You have helped me alot with this conversion so far and i really enjoy your videos! i subbed :)
A year later I've decided to move on to twin Weber 45s. My carbs were great fun and made really good power, 133hp @7600rpm on Dyno. But they have started to leak and need a rebuild. And tuning them isn't always easy because the idle screw is underneath and you can't adjust it without taking out the carbs.
Dude- do u just want me to go down to the parts store and ship you the brake pads? 😂😂 you crack me up! Think we all have been sitting in the drivers seat when the car is down, imagining driving when it’s back up🤘
I have the pads and discs. Waiting for the damn pad fitting kit now and parts to be blasted and galvanized.
I wasnt sure but now i am. I bought kadett d with c20xe block and 18e head with multypoint injection. I hate the plastic airfilter and wires. Its allready restomod so im gonna give back some oldschool vibe with honda cbr1000f carbs. Thank you.
14:18 this.
Sir, you just got a new subscriber.
I think if you have an SR5 ae86 and just have a DOHC 4age long block , carbs are the way to go at this point since GTS conversion part are very expensive now...imo
swapped a big port 4AGE into my corolla SR5 from an MR2 and the engine was in rough shape and the intake and EFI parts were junk plus the car was already built to have carbs ie it had a fuel tank return line and no in tank pump
Question #2 is basically me. My fuel injection system is all wacky. Idles weirdly, doesn’t keep constant idle at a stop sometimes. Doesn’t like cold start. Fuel efficiency is way off. And its a 30 years old system as well. Even though it’s my daily driver
Love it bro
Thought about doin a bike carb conversion on my AE92 (Corolla GTi-16), but since I daily it for every day of the summer, I wont do it.
However, I'm looking at buying an AE82 (older GTi-16), and if I do, I will probably put bike carbs on it. Don't know how much of a hassle the conversion is, but I'm up to the challenge if I decide to buy it.
Carbs are complex mechanical/hydraulic/pneumatic devices with the puropse to emulate perfect conditions of fuel mixture at constant load and speed and adapt to the intents of the driver by accelarating and still mentain the optimal fuel mixture at trasitional regimes.
This is why good car carb have a lot of adjustment, and no matter how good and complex carb is, it will sort of fit on the optimal chart but not perfectly.
Fuel injection is all about giving the engine what it needs by measuring a few parameters. The simplest is the MAF which tells how much air you put in the engine, and compute the amount of fuel it needs to be stoichimetric mixture.
The limitations of fuel injectors were bad MAF (volume flap meter with temperature gauge to estimate the mass of air), bad injectors (that requires a lot of movement of the needle in order to open and close that can never be finetuned to the perfect amount since the large movement gives a displacement in the injector tip that is dead and uncontrollable), few corrections with sensors (lowest you can go is just MAF and CPS). Now a good fuel injection has the right sensors that are precise (MAF film type), crank,cam and throtle position sensor, temperature sensor of the intake air, and of the coolant, o2 sensor to establish a correction for lean or rich (better individual o2 sensors for each cyl but thats hard to do as it hast to have a long individual path to acuratley measure for each cyl), exhaust temperature, fuel temperature in the ramp, detonation sensor to adjust ignition timing. And the most modern require that all of the sensors are spot on and with high rate of sampling to identify the speed of the variation (lets say for throttle, you crank it open hard, the ecu sees the need of power and richens the mixture a bit and all sort of corelation to each scenario that can be switched when the conditions are met)
Adding fuel injection to an old engine can be a very good idea BUT it is a nightmare if you don't know anything about ecu programming and the parts don't fit. Keep in minde the intake manifold is specially built for a particular engine. Adding FI to old non injected engine will have no availability for that particular intake manifold for that engine. Homemade manifolds are a world worse than mass produced factory types. Maybe aftermarket tuning has an offer. Also adding sensors on old sensorless engines is a nightmare and hard to do in most cases. Also old engines only carburated require TEL gasoline (leaded) which has an oiling effect on valves and seats. Going unleaded on really old engines can hurt the valve-seat sealing and burning more often increasing wear, etc. Going leaded fuel on injection is a big no-no since the MAF and O2 and the Tri-CAT will be busted in short time (except old mechanical maf like flap on K-line Bosch) and in open loop without O2 sensor correction which is a big no-no.
8points for me, looks like i need to buy some bike carbs, s10 pickup w/gxer carbs lol
It looks like you just went carbs for the challenge and that's fine :)
I have to pause because you also have different injecting methods like 4 injectors continue or 2 on 2 injection so the injectiors will inject for 2 cilinders even though 1 is in the compression phase and you have modern injection methods where they inject when the cilinder valve opens. The advantage for my polo is that i am going to use actually less fuell becuase it gets its fuel when needed and i am actually gaining more horsepower.
individual throttle bodies are a better comparison to bike carbs and they too have to be synchronized and for fuel injection sensors such as MAF or MAP , O2, TPS do go bad and affect fuel consumption so these must be replaced so just adding another dimension to the carb vs injection argument
I swapped a 4ag into a Tercel 4wd wagon. This was not as easy as it appears at all. Both are the "A" engine family, and the bare block bolts right to the trans, but the rest requires a fair amount of machining, welding, etc.
For example, the 3ac flywheel/crank has 6 bolts, the 4ag has 8. But the 4ag ring gear diameter will not work with the Tercel starter location, dictated by the bellhousing. Also, the 4ag clutch doesn't quite fit into the bellhousing, but that is the one you have to use for other reasons.
That and the many other difficulties are not the point of this comment, though, it is that I initially used gsxr1100 carbs. I made a manifold to do so (2, actually). There was no toyota ecu at that time, so the stock distributor operated an msd ignition system. The sold a "programmable timing computer" in the '90's, 3 knobs varied the timing curve, I mounted that inside the car and messed with it while driving. Educational...especially driving from PA to Oregon just weeks after getting it running.
On that long trip, I brought an assortment of jets (pilot and mains), different slide springs, and slides with different lift hole sizes (the hole in the slide bottom communicates engine vacuum to the area above the diaphragm. It is important in tuning, especially when using carbs on the wrong size engine).
There is more to tuning these well than just jet sizes, all items above matter, and more.
I got my carbs to work flawlessly, like EFI that had a "choke" knob (it is NOT a choke, though, it is an "enrichment circuit", they are not the same)
The problem with the carbs, though, is that despite looking impressive, they were too small, and limited high RPM power noticeably. Each 400cc cylinder had one 36mm carb to breathe through. With the EFI, each cylinder had the big throttle body to pull air through. The cylinders do NOT really compete for air..there is an intake stroke only every 180 degrees. (Not technically true due to the cam timing opening the intake valve a bit early and closing it well after BDC, but you get the idea.)
You don't get to "add up" all that carb area, each is on it's own with its respective cylinder.
I drove it tens of thousands of miles on the bike carbs, but then adapted the MR2 EFI to the Tercel, which is also much more work than you think- consider that the tercel had an engine driven mechanical fuel pump, for example..on the head. Makes 4 psi. Won't feed the 45psi efi, won't go on the 4ag head anyway...so, weld mounting ring into the Tercel tank, make bracket to hold pump, make fuel lines, etc....etc..manifold won't fit under hood...cut and weld that...throttle body points at firewall now...work around that...etc...etc.. I made almost the whole wire harness.
But, YES, the engine regained the missing high RPM power. And was less responsive. It was snappy with the carbs.
Regarding that..the bit of video showing yours running with the bike carbs..it didn't run real well, seemed sluggish. Possibly that slide lift rate, controlled by the balance between the slide lift holes and the slide springs. These details are often missed and really matter..maybe, also, it was lean midrange, or had retarded timing at that RPM.
Elsewhere in the comments, "fuel shooting out of the carbs" is mentioned. That is tricky, it is airflow reversal due to resonance. It is bad, because the air is "carbureted" twice, in a sense, and can cause extreme richness at only very specific RPM and really crap running at that RPM.
I had the best results eliminating the T-VIS butterflies, with no loss of torque or low RPM drive ability.
I still have the car, the exhaust was a PITA to make, when it got rusty, I parked it. I have an LS2 in a volvo wagon now, it was less work and much more fun. Less work than the tercel, even including making all motor, trans mounts myself, etc. I try to make everything.
thanks sir very usefull
😀I like the intro
I got a Kia ad in the middle of this....
Hehe. I just VW beetle carb swapped a 1990 honda civic. I was in the same boat. 30 year old fuel injection system that never worked.
I like bike carb but I haven't done it because my civic ef carb is fine .. more power in the bike carb, maybe in the future... but I have a ZC engine with carb it's fine, but there's less power because I'm using the oem carb from d15b
when you no longer get parts for your fuel injection its good to fit bike carbs
This is a mega video
If you ever come across the bouncing idle again on FI, it might be the cold start throttle control. My 4AGE FXGT would bounce from 8-1200, finally found a mechanic that knew the issue as Toyota mechanics (3) couldn't fix it. He took the heater hoses off the bottom of the intake and joined them together with a U pipe. Problem solved.
The cold start is only needed for sub zero conditions, so is usually pointless.
Great vid but ive gtg but some asap as you told me
Thinking about bike carb swapping a 4AC, regardless of gains. Though, do you think there might be any gains to be had over the original ancient carb?
I have had many motorbikes with carbs. I am not very knowledgable about ecu's and electronics. I have an mx5 1.8 nbfl so if you install carburators how you deal the ecu aspect of the built ( the mx5 ecu is not tunable) ?
What about carb to bike carb for the questions, also how do I know if my vac advanced works? I have been driving it without and I don’t understand the point of it, when I connected it for the first time I started hearing a quiet ticking.
Can u set up the bike cram yourself ? Or would it need to be taken to a tuning place
Hi I'm looking for a little help
I have a toyota 2tg port/polished/oversized valves
I'm looking to go r6 fuel injection with aftermarket ecu
Any advice would be awesome
Thanks Al
100%!
I'd rather just know about sizing and jetting. I have a Corvair Monza so I can't do the per cylinder thing but the Rochesters that came with it only have a 30mm output so id assume a 34mm bike carb would work fine but im not sure
brb going to put bike carbs on my 22r
I like bike carbs but i hate getting them off of the bike. Such a pain getting tools in there to undo everything. I bet they're a lot easier to work on if you stick them on your car engine. My bike has a bigger displacement than my car tho so i don't think i can swap them...
"more fun with a screwdriver than u can ever imagine
Crap... It sounds kinda perverted now that I think about it :)
12:58 is that fuel spraying out of your carbs whenever you throttle from low to high?
yes
Scores tell me to stay with the standard Micra K11 fuel system, carbs on my daily sounds like a good idea to me, and bins off the piss poor inlet manifold and get some lovely inlet bark
I need those bike carbs to pick upp the ladies.
It seems a lot of the questions didn't apply to me because my car is carbureted. And my carburetor is a pain to work on so I've bought a rack of kehin FCRs and I'm not looking back!
The questions are for the fuel injection guys. When it comes to difficult car carbs, there is no contest there, a bike carb conversion, as I explained in the carb vs carb part in the beginning of the vid, is almost always a good move.
Infomative and screw those naysayers
Ahaha that ending.
I think you are the ver few guys on youtube who does the bike carb conversion.
Google results points to you
i got 10, but only because question one doesnt really make sense since my daily already is carb'd from factory
Got a 1988 golf mk2 1.6 8v, currently has the original pierberg carburator and should make around 70 hp from factory.
I reckon going to bike carbs would help alot in the power departement, My plans/hopes are currently to fit bike carbs (I have mates with a machining workshop), a 268 camshaft and exhaust system/manifold (there's used ones on the market here)
I hope to be at the 100hp mark (115 would be amazing)
Anyway, what would be more noticable to start with? 268 camshaft or bike carbs?
I think with everything you have planned 100 hp should be easy if it's all done right. I would also increase the compression a bit and get uprated valve springs since you're going with that cam. I would start with the carbs and then the cam. You will be able to make more power from the cam with the carbs already in there. The carbs will be more noticeable not because of larger hp gains but because the engine will change tone dramatically and should be a lot more responsive if the carbs are tuned right.
how do you deal with the stock vacuum lines
I am all for bike carbs for your car. But it's not the fuel injection vs. carb that I see as a point to discuss. It's not having the T-VIS system that will hurt performance. DOHC and really short intake (i.e. carbs) is going to hurt the acceleration off the line. T-vis kept the velocity of the air up at lower rpms. On the up side you should get a higher peak hp. Dammit I got rid of my MR2 years back. The intake and factory stuff worked. Bottom end was toast tho.
Of course the factory stuff worked, a bunch of ppl that are a lot smarter than me developed that :) it's just that in my case it all bit the bullet. Bottom end will probably be a bit worse your right, I hope the top end makes up for it. I do have higher compression and cam lift than stock, so I'm optimistic :)
@@d4a Oh, I meant the parts I had worked, but they went to the junkyard. Not that what you're doing won't :-) If you are not happy when it's done. A possible fix would be seeing if you have or can find the closest gear ratios possible in your transmission or even a final drive swap. Or turbo charge it. Or develope your own T-vis using a short bit of dual runner intake with the butterfly in the one runner, a electro/vacuum servo to activate, and an Arduino set to flip the valve at an rpm you choose. Ha ha might need 8 smaller carbs to get it tuned perfectly. Arduino is incredibly easy. I have a partially developed setup for intake control with arduino. I could change it to 4 cyl and remove 3 stages in the program. Mine uses resonance instead of cutting off a 4/8 runners.
Almost forgot a bigger vacuum reservoir would be necessary too. Easily found behind the bumper on a Jeep Cherokee.
Good video I daily 4age with R1 carbs everything you talked about was trueshit
Did u have to do any jetting?
Basically he pressed rollback. Personally my un educated self, would just do this. Get the engine with no sensors. And then buy aftermarket sensors that can be modified easily. You got your car carbed, but you also bought a new ECU, something to measure crank position too. All you'd need is some injectors timed correctly at the right amount. And you could delete the tvis . All about messing with the settings. And if something's working correctly or not.
Will it also work for 4AF (carb)? And benefits from it?
It works with every engine. Benefits are even greater for less performance oriented versions of the 4A engine as the intake and fuel delivery system on them leave more to be desired.
Is there any modifications for bike carbs?
Bike carbs are perfect for me I am gonna convert my supercharged AW11 to NA and put bike carbs on it Or keep it supercharged 🤔
KEEP IT SUPERCHARGED
Aye tell them quite hating it's your build👌
what about mechanical fuel injection? Should i throw it out and do a bike carb converion on my M103 r129?
Sounds expensive to do that. For that cost you might as well convert it to M104 engine.
Bro i need a help. I have a 1987 Golf Mk2 GTI With Injection, injection was a retardest thing and i removed bcs in one month this shit was broken may a 10 times, then i put a mono point injection and its a low power... then i put a Rochester Varajet 2 and its a economy, good sound and more power than injection but isnt enough. Does a Bike carbs make a my car maybe a better accleration? I scored 8 points but xD This is my daily - tuning car. I make a engine from 1.8 to 2.0 with a ported head and some things, engine is in great condition and i mean it would be a half economic with bike carbs maybe a 13-14 litters at 62 miles on a half sport drive, maybe a smaller on a Granny drive. Do you recommend a carbs for me?
question, what bike carbs would you recommend for a 1.4L engine? as in, carbs from what CC of bike? or could i hook up like 4 individual 125cc bike carbs with a custom linkage? like what CC worth of carbs (if that makes sense) would be suitable for a 1.4L engine? i have a 1980 Lancer EX that ive been wanting to do a bike carb conversion on once i fix the rust haha
I wouldn't recommend the thing with four individual carbs. This is eyeballing it but something from a 400-600cc bike should be ok. You will correct afrs with needle height and jet changes.
Thanks! that helps a lot! there isnt much available here in Malaysia in terms of full sets of 4 bike carbs, hence my curiosity about the 4 separate 125/150 carbs. Guess ill start looking further abroad... eBay here i come lol
I mean I haven't seen anyone do it, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. Synchronizing them and making the throttle linkage might be a pain tho.
i mean, im down to try it. My brand's motto is FCK NRML, so its worth a shot i guess. Plus I'll have a wise old gentleman helping me who has been doing crazy shit with cars for years, so hopefully we can make it work. Ill give it a shot with 4 separate carbs first, just coz. haha then if we really cant make that work, ill look into a more traditional bike carb setup. i also had a little confusion over the idea of running an ECU with carbs... or is the NODIZ more of just a spark controller?
Yes, Nodiz only controls ignition. Good luck with it, let me know how it goes.
I'm looking to do it on a CRX 1st gen ( Originally carb) iam really worried it would never run right ,any encouraging words?
Did you ever do this? I'm in the middle of a r1 carb swap on mine
Ah the Dr Schultz articulation pattern
How about a 7AGE conversion?
Hi Driving4Answers,
Did you install those Eibach prokit springs? If so, can you give us a review? I am thinking about buying some too.
Thanks!
They are installed but I can't drive the car yet as you can see, there will be a detailed review of the eibach pro kit and the koni yellows when I start driving the car.
@@d4a ! Thank you so much for answering my question! I just recently found your channel, and I followed your guide of how to install polyurethane bushings! You are so helpful. I just ordered eibach springs, and I'm going to swap them out as well as my strut inserts. Your videos are great. Keep them up!!
No problem man, glad the content is useful for you. I think you will like the eibach springs. They don't lower the car much, the ride is sportier than stock but not harsh like coilovers. They are probably the best option for the street and still won't totally suck on the track.
Would bike carbs and a v8 work? UZ for example.
What do you think about putting bike carbs on a 20V 4AGE?
Hmmm. I say why not, but it's a bit redundant and will loose power. The 20v has a really nice factory itb setup.
I have a question i recently bought a keihin cvr but it’s tps is broken and i can’t unplug it because of the screw are totally destroyed, can i still run it without the throttle position sensor?
You can, no problem. You only need the TPS if you're running standalone 3d ignition, otherwise you're ok. That being said, I highly recommend standalone mapable ignition, it enables you to have smooth performance and great throttle response at all rpms and throttle openings. Without it you can maybe get your wide open throttle the way you want but everything else will likely be imperfect.
driving 4 answers thank’s mate one last thing is it posible to turbo a itb motorcycle carb engine ?
Ive got a mk2 polo on cbr600 bike carb 1.4 16v afh conversion the carbs keep flooding with petrol have u got any ideas on how to solve my problem ?
Your float valves are worn or clogged most likely. Replace them
Thanks for the advice 👍
Hi, I got a set of Keihin Fcr41 from a CBR1100, and want it installed on a Toyota 2tc engine. Do you think it's to much to the engine,? Or will be ok?
Any other mods on the engine?
Bored piston to 20 only.
You will have a torqueless bottom end of the power curve. What's the redline? If you can make a high redline than the top end should be fun at least, but a high redline also needs mods.
Will this carb and ECU set be right for a black top 20v 4age the 16v are getting hard to find
Isn't the 20 rarer? Yeah, you can basically carb convert any engine. But the 20v already has ITBs, so doing carbs doesn't really make much sense
@@d4a my bad for not giving much info I'm from the u.s and I have a 1985 Toyota SR5 that I going to swap in a 20v blacktop 4age into and want to make the build simple without setting up the map and ecu set up for the motor the nodiz seems more suitable and I can find the 20v black top motors more available then the 16v p.s in kinda new to all this and want to get as much info as I can lol
CBR 600 carbs will work on a 1000cc single carb engine (if well tunned) with an AFR gauge )?
I do not want more hp, but a better throttle response would be amazing.
Keep doing good job
What kind of 1000cc engine?
It is a Datsun A10 engine and has 73mm bore and 59mm stroke, factory has 59HP and 80NM
Hmmm. You would certainly get a lot in the top end with these carbs, but down low the throttle response and power would be questionable. These are 36.5mm....I would go for 34mm in order to get what you want.
Thank you!!
What about a car from 2000. Runs fine. But I want the bwapppp
Indeed mate why did you install carby's ? You liked my other comments on my wife's account GAZ GIRL . Hopefully you'll don't get a jet blocked or uneven mixture for some reason. Also I'll be starting work on my AE82 20v soon might get a shitty channel going and I'll show my 3 other builds
Where did you score those trumpets ?
DanStengineering, where I got the carbs and conversion kit, made them for me.
How was your torque/ hp change from fi to carb?
czcams.com/video/uRZUJJwNQvA/video.html
You can compare it to stock numbers
What bike carb would you recommend for a 1.4 dual carb civic gl.
Depends on other mods, if it's an aggressive build 36.5mm would probably be ok, if closer to stock then a few mm smaller maybe
@@d4a Thanks. Would it change the mpg by a lot?
Not too much likely
Cuz T3 shit I'm waiting to
2:40 is when the video starts
🙂👍✌
Breh my comment
Carbs are terrible. Efi is superior in literally every way. Outside of just having some mechanical fun.
Aaah.. Blanket statements, my favourite.
The 3rd video of yours I see . You better do something other talk boring stuff
But you still watched three videos 😂
Computers suck