We fit 4 motorcycle carburetors to a Lada
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2022
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the tube your blowing into is the pressurized secondary circuit tube it normally get pressurized air from the air intake duct at the front of the motorcycle and add pressure to the fuel circuit to increase rpm range of the motor. the 2nd one that was shorter and not connected is normally hooked to the bottom of the airbox where the incoming air in the airbox give low pressure for the first few 1000 rpm if i remember correctly the bike has a solenoid that switches between the 2 intake hoses at 12mph. its been a while since ive worked on a carbed cbr600
would connecting the hose to the crankcase vent be good enough?
@@2000freefuel its possible but the amount of air flow and pressure created by the ran air duct is a fair amount. taking a funnel and mounting it to the radiator core upper support with the hose hooked to it would be a quick fix option too.
Its not pressurized. It will be at high speed but not at all times so Its pressure can be ZERO and it will still work perfectly. Its just a boost. It is used to Get more air into the airbox at so it is There to be used when Engine is at High RPM. When it actually demands more than Airbox can provide.
Bike engine can reach Top RPM at 0Kmh but its not at full power because it cant suck enough air to be fully efficient.
Example My ZXR 750 made 107hp at Normal Dyno NO WIND.
But it made 122 Hp at Wind Simulation Dyno that creates wind according to roller speed. Simulating real life conditions.
Thats Zero Tuning just Wind and No wind.
@@2000freefuel No Thats a bad Idea. Its a clear air line to the Carb intake. It needs no pressure.
you are correct.
place the breather (pcv) hose feeding the float of the carbs, that way you don't need to keep blowing to force fuel to the throat of the carbs :)
i came here to say that.
Was just thinking isn’t it vacuum fed? Lol
@@00DDS if you pressurize the float bowl you are helping to push the fuel to the carb throat in parallel with the venturi effect
@@MultiDopper exactly requires a vacuum of some sort
What about use air compressor?
Those are CV (constant velocity) carbs. In the top cover there is a diaphragm, that diaphragm opens the slide and needle when it sees manifold pressure. The manifold pressure controls how much the carbs open to prevent a rich or lean condition and throttle bog by not letting you open the throttle fully before the MAP is up enough to draw the proper amount of fuel, and as it's name suggests it meters the airflow across the jets to a, yep, constant velocity of airflow through the venturi. This is so the jets see about the same amount of low pressure at idle or wide open, otherwise it'd go rich when airflow is too high and lean when too low.
Best answer!
@Buddy Rojek wrong it just this type of carb
a keihin fcr carb with an accelerator pump don't need any of this to work great just like a car carb same thing when you stab the throttle the accel pump add extra fuel to prevent the bog
4 keihin fcr 41mm would make this lada engine sing
@Buddy Rojek is fuel inhection better than fuel injection?
@@legros731 This. Not all carbs are CV, they're usually used when drivability is desired, like in a lot of consumer bikes. Less throttle response, but if you hammer the throttle open instantly from idle it'll smoothly accelerate rather than die or hesitate.
Non CV carbs, usually with one, or several pumping circuits are meant for performance, and will do whatever you tell it, even if it's wrong, like instant open or closing. It take a bit of skill having a smooth wrist and a good ear to roll on and off the throttle smoothly and keep a non-cv carb right in the sweet spot. It's not really difficult, just a minor skill that needs to be learned and used to get the most out of the machine.
And fuel injection isn't necessarily 'better', it's not black and white good vs bad type of thing. If you're looking to maximize performance and efficiency, a dyno tuned ECU driving a quality FI system with precise fuel and spark maps is about the best you'll get for performance, and if you're going racing for real this is 'best'.
Now if you've got some consumer, non sports vehicle, the fuel and spark maps are set far below their performance potential and are tuned and limited enough so your nana can drive to church at half the speed limit. If we're talking about being a user friendly, smooth quiet, machine that will run at pretty much any temperature, humidity level, altitude etc as design goals then FI is better than a carb.
But on the other hand, if you have a well tuned carb or synced carb bank over a stock vanilla mellow tuned ECU in grandma's Hyundai there will be a pretty decent performance increase with the carb. But there'd be an even bigger performance jump with a fully mapped standalone system but that's often cost prohibitive on several levels from initial purchase to install to dyno tuning to make the investment worth it.
Personally on bikes i prefer a carb over fuel injection, in my use case it's a better option. I could get more performance with a fuel injection kit, ECU and new throttle body but i ride remote trails and overland in the dusty desert hundreds of miles from anything manmade. There's no shop around with diagnostic tools, ultrasonic baths for cleaning stuck injectors, and the LAST thing i want to do is be stuck because a wire chafed and fried my ECU 100 miles into the desert.
If i have a carb problem there's really nothing i can't fix or hack on the trail unless the carb is physically broken, like smashed to pieces with a rock or hammer. Otherwise, there's only a few simple things that could fail that are easily fixed. Most of the time it just needs a cleaning, that takes all of 10 minutes on the trailside. I carry an extra diaphragm for the CV circuit as they can tear and leave you with very low power, and i also carry a few feet of extra fuel and vacuum hoses in my tools.
For me in this situation, a carb is best because it's easily serviceable anywhere with no special tools, just a screwdriver. I take a slight performance hit and it DOES need regular service at least once every few months to keep it clean and starting on the first spark every time, but it's a small price to pay for the security of knowing i can fix it, rather than getting bricked by unfixable problems without a shop full of special tools and computers.
If failure isn't going to turn your ride into a weeklong survival challenge then fuel injection would provide better performance, until it fails and doesn't provide any.
@@rustymustard7798 ok but why did you have to write this wall of text I am fully aware of all of this i am a mechanic
Its called Helmholtz resonance. Positive pressure in airbox when intake valve is open.
We've been putting stacks on Honda motors for over 30 years. Good stuff
pretty much all motors
You need at least #100 main jets. In my 1200cc 8valve Kawasaki 4cil. it had #98 main jets. It dynoed at 97hp.
Main jets define the full throttle peak power mixture
Then you play with the height level of the needles. This defines the mixture at medium revs. The higher the needle, the richer the mixture.
Last: you play with the idle mixture screws. This defines the idle mixture.
all 3 (main jet, needle jet and idle mixture screw) have a bit of overlap.
Synchronisation: Hook up 4 vacume gauges to the porst on the carbs and balance the carbs in such a way that all 4 deliver the same vacume. (adjust them 2 by 2 , then adjust 1 SET to the other SET)
You NEED a closed sealed airbox on top of the carbs to make them perform best.
If you get it right the engine will REALLY perform strong!
Yeah at least they got it right and used the airbox... I made the mistake of removing the airbox on my bike once and it RUINED driveability. No level of tuning could fix it. Put a new airbox back in and it was a dream come true haha!
@@volvo09 lmao
Size of jets depending on carburetor structure 125cc can have 140 size or 1000cc can have even 80size
My question is, how did they work out that blowing into that pipe did anything. I've worked on cars a fair bit in my life, and when faced with a badly running engine, I've never thought, "Well, lets try huffing into some of these pipes to see if that helps". :D
your not sucking on vac lines testing shit?
Hahahahhahahahaha 🤣
Probably pretty close. That is after all how we discovered what was edible, what was not, and what would make pretty colors that nobody else could see, throughout time 🤣
@@MadScientist267 I can just picture it....
"Hey, Geoff. Come eat this"
"What is it?"
"Dunno"
"Erm.... OK, Fair enough" [Nom nom nom nom].
"So, How do you feel Geoff?.......... Geoff?........... Ah........... OK, so this stuff ISN'T good to eat....... I'll call it...... Erm....... ARSENIC. Yeah, that's a good enough name for it......... Right, what next......... STEVE ! Oi, Steve. Come over here a minute. I've got some frogs I want you to lick."
:D
I’d replace the stock air box with some velocity stacks or pod filters, you may get better air flow that way. Also make sure all the carbs are vacuum synced with each other, you’ll have to make some vacuum ports on the intake manifold to do so. Love your videos!
"Could you give me a lift?" "Yep no problem if you blow into 'hose'" 😁😁
Seemed like a dui reference. lol
Try fitting small air velocity stacks to each carb. Also try small stacks combined into an air scoop. Might make a difference
Synchronize the carburetors would help a lot too.
Need vac ports on the intake runners and a mercury Synchronize gauge.
Perhaps change the jets/needles to suit the engine as well.
we used to tune VW dual carbs with clear tubing and Koolaid, when the fluid is moving together equally, you're "there".
This mod reminds me of the twin Mikuni carb setups on Datsun 510s. After all the Lada engine is like the Russian version to the Datsun l series 4 cylinder.
The whole car reminds me of a Datsun 510
Just the lada is built far better.
Rust, however, is terrible on both
@@isaacsrandomvideos667 I would like to get my hands on a lada someday, such a fun car! I'd say the 510 edges out the lada in handling, I've seen them at the track and you can toss them to any turn lol.
@@i_woke_up_in_a_new_buggati yeah they are pretty cool
510 and lada.
@00:20 "brighten the mood in these turbulent times" ...haha understatement then...much more now.
Motorcycle carbs have a secondary throttle that typically runs off air pressure from air being pulled in the carbs. It is probably set up to run on exhaust pressure to the hose. Or the crankcase. Also use a vacuum Guage to tune the individual carbs. Carbs usually have a vacuum port next to the outlet. Good luck. I hope to see more on the Motorcycle carbs!
The first MG Maestro 1600 model had a set of four carbs, they were notorious for coming out of harmony with each other leading to some pretty rough running, looked good though and the Maestro exists today with its bodyshell forming the basis for several Chinese cars.
Maestro was garbage though 🤣
Twin webbers
what you're blowing through is a link pipe for a vacuum operated fuel tap. simply block it off and the carb will function normally.
There is a guy in the UK running a lawn mower carb on a small block and it's running amazing
He lives in the United States and he's me.
@@ThunderHead289 When I read that, I heard Obi Wan's voice.
@@ThunderHead289 this is brilliant 😂
this seems like the perfect time to add a turbo.
Good job!
Loving the Snowrunner looking mud tyres in the background at around 1:05
Done that on a vw beetle. Went for throttle bodies and injectors in the end as you don't need venturi to create a vacuum
Good one guys .
This is actually something that was done a TON back in the day... Old Webber carbs on the 4AGE Toyota engines, and other small displacement engines, The mazda Rotary engines, all were popular for bigger motorcycle carbys back in the day. Not surprised it worked at all.
of course... When they did this back in the day, they were high performance engines.. and they used ITB's...
I bet the pipes are the vents, some bikes have fuel pumps, I bet you don't have enough fuel pressure, blowing into the vent will help to drive fuel out of the float chamber, try another fuel pump
IS THIS A OLD VIDEO OR IS IT REALLY WINTER / SNOWING IN RUSSIA RIGHT NOW
@@tammylott921 Old video wich has now been translated.
@@tammylott921 it's frow 2018💀
"I am tired of Blowing" yeah that is what she said~~~!
Huh?
???
2018,,, very cool 😁👍 I like those old Lada's
Those are vacuums actuated carburetors the more air comes in the higher the slides lift therefore increasing the Venturi effect
Those are vacuum sliders in the carburetor which controls fuel at a higher RPM they have needles attached to them
Somehow, blowing into the tube fully opens the throttles. Jaguars used SU carbs that used vacuum to open the slides fully, I think this was called a "constant depression" carburetor. They are probably blowing into the side that pushes the throttle fully open. You can read about them on Wikipedia, but I've never been able understand how these work.
I've never liked carburetors, though I got pretty good figuring them out via RC model airplane engines and while working as a landscaper in college.
Cool. I think I understand some of it (how an SU carbie works), from Smarter Every Day's clear carburetor vids. I'll have to watch again and read the relevant paragraphs of that article
Also: [eyes narrow] We meet again!
@@BubblewrapOracle I'll have to look at those videos....Thanx!
@@BubblewrapOracle Birds of a feather....
Hope you do a part 2 with all the comments you have all the resources to get it rippen
Connect a 12v air compressor and charge the tank. Connect a steady release valve to the output and keep it running while the car is running. Add a flow handle that you can squeeze to control the pressure release. Viola. You could also redirect some exhaust through the purge tube, but you wanna avoid combustion in the carb since it is not exactly a turbo assembly.
A standard carb is gravity designed and uses chambers that utilize bernoulli's principal to help with purging, think assassin's teapot.
this has been done a lot here on similar engines, I have done this several times. Two things it needs, NO MORE THAN 1.5 PSI FUEL PRESSURE. you need to use a 1.5 to 1.7 mm main jet. Trust me. do those two things and be amazed.
1.5 psi… whatever that is.
Shouldn’t there be a valve that shuts off the incoming fuel when the chamber is full?
@@demil3618 divide by 14.5 to get bar if you prefer. Over .3 bar the needle and seat in most bike carbs will be starting to do odd things that make the tuning difficult and counter intuitive. That would be the shut off valve you refer to. Known fact, you need at least 50 % more main jet area when using bike carbs on a ( much lower reving, near half the rpm capability) car engine, unless you want to go the correct route of changing slide and spring calibrations, emulsion tubes, needles etc etc. The quick dirty and effective method is to get some drills 1.50mm to 1.75mm in 0.05 mm increments and drill the main jets out until you get were you need to be. Its by no means perfect, but its 98% and costs near nothing.
@@iainball2023 Yes that’d be a way to do it, widen the nozzle. There used to be little “needles” for that for motorbike tuning.
I guess what hasn’t become clear (and I wondered) is what size/capacity was the motorcycle engine a compared to the Lada one. I’d say suitable carbs should come from a similar sized engine.
PS: Yes bars are more straight forward and more common, so easier to use.
Love his countenance
It's pretty normal, even the engines rev up higher when you give them a good blow... That's what she said :D
YOU tell HER the faster you Blow,the better IT runs,,,,HAha.
Lol what?
???
Running a set of CBR600 F3 carbs on my 1.3L 1985 Corolla EE80. It's a hoot to drive XD
always use a flat slide carburetor .. much simpler to adjust .. and see carburetor jet size chart
I love watching your videos. Its all about ingine...😀😀😀
If blowing air is the solution hook the tube to either the crank case breather or weld a nipple to thee exhaust pipe and pull air pressure from there like small 2 strokes that dont have fuel pumps its uses ehaust back rpessure to push fuel thru system.. either one would work and probly balance it out since the amout of air pressure will be directly tied to the throttle
yeee thats gonna work :)
Works great. Put that hose on the PCV pipe. I know another one!! Put 4x2 barrel carbs on it, & see what that does!!
those are cv carbs the throttle cable doesn't connect to the throttle but a butterfly that goes before the throttle. the throttle is activated by a rubber diagram that's pushed on by engine vacuum. it could be that the larger displacement has so mutch vacuum that its slamming the throttle all the way open and bogging it out, and adding a little pressure is able to close it just enough to get the fuel mixture right. could also be that its jetted so lean that it needs the throttle to be closed a bit to get it to run, or if that's the evap line that normally goes to the charcoal canister I could be shooting pressure into the float bowl and forcing gas through the jet to ritichin it up temporalerly. maybe try removing the airbox to lower vacuum and getting it to act a little bit more like the bike, and way ritcher jets.. could also be that the inside diameter of the runner is smaller then the through of the carb and blocking some important ports.
Nothing like some good cold revs with an unknown AFR 😅
Your carbs are jetted too lean. The tubes you are blowing into are the vents for the fuel bowls. When you blow air in, it forces more fuel through the jets and it runs better.
I think that is a cv constant velocity carb, they use vacuum to actually open the throttle, it has a throttle valve that opens , to allow the vacuum to open the throttle, I don't understand why blowing opens the throttle. Unless that is blowing fuel into the intake, from the bowl, it's difficult to tell from here, maybe they can be modified to work like a conventional slide carb. Maybe the blowing deal is putting pressure on the opposite side of the actuator,
wow thats freakin nice
It's white out snow and he says the weather is beautiful lol
They SHOULD repeat this experiment with the inline-6 they built later.....
I would try checking sequence of the carburetor with a vacuum gauge and if it off set them within an increment of each other
I have bike carbs on mine
I had to sync the carbs and adjust the timing and they work flawlessly
First before playing with the jets/needle height/air fuel ratio mixing screw take apart and clean the carb (careful with the screws they are JIS). Syncing the carbs only really helps for low rpm/idle. The carbs need to be mounted horizontally at the same angle the were designed to operate. Ever try to wheelie an old YZF-R6 with a carb?
Use different carburetors so you won't have to blow pressurized air. Motorcycle carburetor swaps on 4A-G engines are a thing. Could use many of the older motorcycle carbs - and a lot more options as long as they are large enough for the cylinders and jetted correctly
Those are CV carburetors. Your throttle is connected to a butterfly valve behind the slide. So it is possible that the hose you are blowing at is the slide breather! When you blow on that hose you actually lift the slides manually and make more fuel and air go in!
Hanging up on a certain low RPM is often caused by manifold leaks and other problems like diaphragm leaks or improper jetting or horrible synchonization and float fuel level - these downdraft carburetors require a certain upward angle for the float to operate properly so choose a non-downdraft like CB1000 Big-1 ones or the older FJ1200s and other models
Would love to see a Lada running R1 or R6 YCC-T throttle bodies on fuel injection with e-throttle
pair this with the tractor magnetios would be dope.
A little tweak should pass inspection with flying colors 😆
I think those pipes plug into the intake just after the air box but before the carb.. I had seen something like that on an old kawasaki
"We fit 4 motorcycle carburetors to a lada"
Translation and voice-over by bmi russian.
We need a revist of this episode during the summer. Put 8 carbs on a v8
i fitted a set of these carb's on a 2.0 pinto, with a kent mild road race cam year's ago i was mental.
Powered by blowing power!
Build a air intake, like a big cone, facing the front of the car. Connect the pipe to the cone, that way, when you pull away, everything is nice and mild, but, as you go faster and the airflow into the cone increases, you gradually release the beast!
I have been wanting to do that for a while.Tthought it was an original idea.
aw just shoulda hooked up one of them 12v aircompressors to pump some air inline lol
The angle of the carbs was preventing the fuel from keeping the floatbowls filled. Blowing in the tube was acting like a supercharger.
Boom!
Amazing hahahaa!!!
mad max
those carbs need high vaccum to work... the throttle just opens a butterfly valve, to rise the piston with needle it has to get strong vacuum under the black plastic cap... this can be quiet difficult to tune right
Yesyesyes
Needs air ram as most sport bikes have its that way for a reason those carbs are ment for high rpm so they need all airflow possible
Had 2 double Weber 45mm on a 2 litre volvo engine. Was hard to make it run clean, and a pushrod engine dont reach high enough revs to benefit from so high CFM setup in the first place. Motorcycles with 4 carbs otoh, not that hard to work with, manufacturer has calculated what you need and thats what you get, they just work - unlike aftermarket parts.
I’d like to see a block cut off at the bottom right where the cylinder walls start and then attach that to another engine and weld the rods to have super long rods😂
And? Would b the same stroke and heavier so would actually b working backwards...
put that air tube inline with one or more the intake boots ( filter side of carb/s)
7:40 lol Reminds me of Red Green
Splice in Nitrous, and give it periodic shots of Nitros, might make it a real hot rod.
Shoulda hooked the tube up to a smog pump... Put an air bleed valve on it to adjust how much air it gets
Might could try an air compressor. If you have a way to power it and a blow nozzle you may could try that.
If anyone do it be you guy in joy videos as always
connect the house you blowing into at the bottom of any of the runners before the throttle
Air tube might be connected to the distributor for vacuum advance.
Add a air pump for a horn to the mix and a button to switch it on
Pass out trying to drive that thing.
Reminds me of me fiddling with my carburetors. Still cant figure them out.
Bin them carbs off, fit a set of mikuni rs38's. as everyone has mentioned the diaphragms need constant pressure to raise the needles.
Or a set of carbs from a gsxr 1100.
750's had bst 38 ss's.
You can rejet for an 1100.
34's are great for the street, tho.
At least, for an 1100.
The RS series is over rated.
Try to put a torque converter on a manuel gearbox😅
connect that hose to a spare tire with a valve to adjust the pressure right 😆
these look like the carbs that mount vetical instead of horizontal. the air intake is up
watch red beards garage he used one just like that on a v-twin build
need to hook carbs to pvc valve, that would give the suck and blow they need to work right and on a side note, If they are Suzuki carbs have fun, they are hell to do with when cold
👍 Nice
Wow that's amazing you can adjust it there or you can find other carburettor
Or you can but a pipe in a front of a car when you drive it caches more eire
get one of the electric smog pumps off a gm or Toyota etc, and use that for pressurization
Ok so... I've worked on streetbikes and CV carbs but, never have I seen one that was depended on some secondary tube. Was this some one year only stuff? I have a good buddy with Mikuni YZF carbs on his Toyota Corolla drift car, no airbox just pod filters
I run bike carbs om my lada 2101 engine you need a jet kit to tune them then its great and dont blow in to the vent tubes of the carb this wil pressure on the feul bowl blowing it thrue the jets thats why you get the small boost and then Nothing.
I see this video is from 2018, you should do an update on this idea, with non-CV motorcycle carbs.
Or maube fit a funnel to the front of the car it will collect air as you go forward and attach a tube to the carbs.
How did they figure out which tube to blow into to? Hahaha
If you can get two Weber carbs and build two intakes for it. That would look great and make that Lada go
Bigger nozzles is needed. Especially in the cold
I'm assuming those are vacuum slide carburetors with springs in them. Try stronger springs. The vacuum a car engine generates is far different to a motorcycle engine. No reason why you couldn't get a car engine running quite decently with bike carbs, and really decently with some needle and jet tuning.
You can try using pressurize air.
the carbs gave a vacuum slide in them when you open the butterfly on the carb the slide doesn't open until the carb sees a pressure drop. when you blow in the tube you create the pressure difference for the slide to open wide open all at once. here is a video that shows the carb in detail czcams.com/video/cufBK75uYdg/video.html
try hooking up the hose to the exhaust or something so that it acts like a turbo in a way, more air is pushed through when you give it gas and little air gets pushed through at idle. this build has great potential for sure.
manifold vacuum for that hose