Upside Down Motorcycle Fork Seal & Fluid Replacement
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- čas přidán 2. 11. 2019
- Hi everybody, welcome back to the Shed.
In this video we are going to be replacing the seals and the fork oil in a pair of upside down motorcycle forks.
These particular forks are from a 2007 K7 Suzuki GSXR 750. Although these are GSXR items, the principles are largely the same for a lot of USD forks. The only real difference that may be found is in forks that have an inner slide bushing. This will require them to be shocked from the fork upper.
I hope that you enjoy this video or find it useful.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to like, subscribe and comment for more videos from Kev's Shed.
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Thank you for sharing your video! My husband made a tool similar to yours using ABS pipe and bolts. He was pulling down and I had the wrenches. It worked great! Now I have new fork seals on my Kawasaki Versys.
Hi mate. Thanks for the video.
A tip I have for you though.
Keep a spare yoke near your vice.
If a customer drops round the stations with the top cap on you can use the yoke to hold the station while you unscrew it.
(I've actually bored a yoke slightly and rounded the ports so I can easily slide them in and out without scratching them)
hi kev great video thanks, just wondering if you would recommend putting rebound and compression to the softest position before putting fluid and putting back together
Great stuff, chap!
I'll now tackle my DL1000 2018!
Can't find air gap info though, so will catch what's emptied out. 👍🏻
From the DL1000 V-Strom Manual that I have found it states that the oil gap is 133mm or a capacity of 505ml per fork. Check out page 287 of the manual at this link:
www.manualslib.com/manual/998591/Suzuki-Dl1000.html?page=287#manual
I hope that this helps you out mate. Don't forget to subscribe to the channel, it really helps!
good video Kev . but there wasn't any need to undo the damper bolt in the bottom of the leg and no need to take out the damper rod as they can be a bugger to get back in if they start spinning ,you only need to undo the bottom bolt on right way up forks,
You sure about that?
Yep I am
@@lornemiddleton3532 so once i get the locking nut off underneath the upper spring from the fork cap, remove the circlip from the fork seal, i can start to use the forks like an opposing slide hammer to split them?
@@Rman1100 yes exactly that you always fill the legs with oil with damper rod in place
Nicely done, thank you
Thanks Dick 👍🏻 it’s nice to have constructive feedback.
Kevs Shed You are welcome. I’m swapping my springs to progressives in my Triumph Rocket 3 and wanted to see an example of USD fork disassembly and reassembly. I’ve done regular forks on other bikes but never USD. Doesn’t look too bad.
Some still require the stanchions to be knocked apart from the uppers. This gsxr didn’t as the stanchions are totally different at the top but my R1 for example did need a bit of thumping apart 👌🏻
Any idea where I can get the tool you used for the “pipe”? Or what I can use as an alternative
Unfortunately the "mate" a lot of lads got🙈 good on you for giving it a go though
Nice video, thank you. One thing... You didn't put oil to new seal before assembling it. I don't know if it is mandatory but most people do it.
It's a valid point, I should have done so really as it helps to stop the seal puckering up on installation! I'll make sure to do it next time though! 👌
Great video Kev. Did your wife forget to use the socket on the top cap when tightening up the lock nut? 😬
That is what I was asking myself.
Hi, any idea how many ml for suzuki gsx s1000 fork oil. Appreciate it and thanks in advance
You didn’t specify the actual model or year chap but I have this info for you. GSX-S1000/A 518ml, GSX-S1000F/FA 523ml. 👍🏻
Hi from Montreal: have a V-strom 1000 2015 inverted fork. I didint change the seal, just changing the oil. Manual say 570 ML......... I just collected 250 ML of old oil. Do you think over the years and milage, we loose a bit a oil at every suspension move? (have no seal problem at all) thanks
Unless you completely strip the fork to it's base components you will most likely not get all of the oil out. there will be a fair bit inside the damper which needs to be pumped to get it all out. That is quite a big difference between the stated capacity and what you recovered. Did you buy it new or is it possible that a previous owner didn't fill it to the correct level?
@@KevsShed ppl koi no
hi there! if you remove only the screw from the bottom of the fork, will the rod come out or is absolutely neccesary to dismantle the top part with that special tool also?
If you don't remove the top part then you cannot accurately measure the oil that you are putting in. Also you will probably find it impossible to get the bolt back in again without dismantling the fork entirely!
@@KevsShed first i was thinking to put the bolt in first and than to pour the oil recommended quantity from the manual from the top part, through the small holes in that white plastic, what do you think will it work?
@@bladebiker100 Each to their own mate, I just prefer to use the prescribed method in the manual!
@@KevsShed thank you for the reply! i was just curios, i never serviced an upside down fork up to now, just regular forks
how many ML each side? 475 ml ?
That will depend upon the bike model, they are all different!
Please replace innertube bushing in every oilseal replace ment
Nah!
What if oil doesn’t want to go up the damper
Sorry bud but I don't understand the question.
@@KevsShed it seemed like the oil was coming up the damper (where small nut is on) when you were pumping it and going down. I pump mine to get the air out but no oil is coming up the tube
@@shyxguy6300 Ah right, it won't come out of the top, that must've been a bit of residual oil mate, give the damper a few pumps, you'll feel it meet resistance and pop it all back together and you'll be good to go! 👌
@@KevsShed alright. So as long as it feels like it has resistance I should be good? I’ve been pumping and it hasn’t had air bubbles come out for a cool minute.
Mouth cam ftw