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Is it possible to do some accelerated environmental testing? Maybe a high humidity chamber with changing temperature with a strong UV light? The major problem with tests like that is time and we lack many good experiments to do with environmental conditions so most people are just left to choose a filament that might work well but they never really know until they test it. His test results are interesting but it would have been good to see some more ABS and some ASA. I would also have been good to see some other types of test, like burying the print, putting it in a pond, etc.

I WANT THAT QUICK CHANGE HOT END!

Selling information. Booooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

For me it is the Best filament for Technik parts. I have printed anny spare parts with this filament. Layer adhesion is very high.

Thanks for your review. Have a MK3s and going to replace with an MK4

How does line width over 100% affect dimensional accuracy?

hi, two years later how it works?

Wish I could have been there. Thanks for sharing 👍🏼

I noticed you there but you were always heading to something and I didn't want to bother you. So glad you came.

That photolithophane stuff looks REALLY COOL. That might actually be fun to play with once I (eventually) get my 3D printer set up and running

What I’d like to see in a hot end is a deflector that guides the filament away from the extruder in the event of blob. Also make a hot end filament will not stick to and run the wires inside a tube or housing where they are protected where blobs can’t destroy them.

I recently watched some of your print test videos and got to a question. Could you print a shell part with a 2mm hole on top, which you then fill with some type of glue/epoxy resin? After it has hardend, you should have prettymuch perfect strength uniformity and form stability at minimal filament use and time investment. (if the fuid pressure becomes large enough to deform the vase mode print could one do it via a number of layers or shells (like chocolate easer bunnies)) Would be interested to see some numbers on that.

I compared two benchies one in PLA and the other in PETG both Aurarum filament in orange and over the three years the PETG only lost colour, the PLA went brittle and faded within a year. A longer experiment would be interesting, Go for it Stephan.

Where do you get the color detection thing the hueforge guy is holding

Wow that quick change nozzle from swiss looks perfect!

Great video about those hotends and Hueforge... Who is that dude with that red hoodie and white letters on the back, was he stalking you?

Really want to see the alumina vs silica graphs that were briefly shown in a previous video! The slide was taken down from the video... hope to see it in the next video!

Heck yea flying gantry 😎

I need that bambu lab upgrade. I installed the bambu lab hotend on my Ender 3 and it's absolutely lovely. This would make it even better.

no ASA? tsk tsk

guys i cant afford 60 usd can someone hook me up with the file

If only there were some accurate way to print colour images already

I used PLA for my turn signal button of my mortocicle. It is parking part time in a garage and part time outside in germany. It it 2,5 years so far and no proplems at all with color degradation (black pla) or becomming soft in the sommer. I think it was geeetech PLA.

I'm a noob to this great info

I agree. The Bambu is the clear winner.

Sheersh I didn’t know this was happening here! I live like 5 minutes away

I thought for the software folks. Slicers that are able to vary the Z axis as they print a layer are about to become a thing. This will allow curved shapes of the colored layers in a print. Thus you likely can make images with better 3D

PLA outside - 4 years ago I designed & printed a large NHS logo which has the Superman S, 20x7cm sized, 5 colours glued together, and bolted it to the wood fence of the substation along my road. It's still there in great condition probably because it doesn't get direct sunlight. I even found photos of it for sale on Alamy from two different people!

it seems like you should have tested how they would have held together under a bending force and not a stretching force.

don't wanna rain of the Hueforge guy's parade, but 70$ A YEAR for the privilege to sell physical art you made using their tool as a fractional portion of the process with a lot of physical labor is downright insulting. The 3d printing space had been going down a very concerning path with land lording licenses for years, but this might just be the most out of touch one I've seen yet

So basically you’re doing what candy makers have done for over 100 years :P 😂

would be cool to see an automatic tool changer with the Swiss3Dc quick change hotend!

On the outside...can he pain them with clearcoat UV and color spraypaint? unprotected and then coated with clearcoat and color (think white for heat protection) but have UV protection built in... I highly recommend testing them...awesome! Keep em coming!!!!

Nice! Ein Tesla! Aber warum hast du denn das Kassengestell in "Stingy White"?

I tried HF one time and found it kinda pointless. It's basically 2D printing on a 3D printer. For me, I'd rather print the images out on a canvas and frame them. It produces no plastic waste and still looks the same. From a distance, you can't even tell the difference.

Interesting stuff ^^ Concerning prints left outside: I park my e-bike on our south-east facing balcony, and since I store the battery pack indoors I printed a cap for the power connector out of white TPU. It has seen the full range of south German weather for a bit over 1 1/2 years, and so far the only change I noticed is that it started to yellow and maybe get a bit stiffer on the parts that were exposed to sunlight. Other than that it's still holding up great.

Combine this method with superslicer of offsetting different extrusion widths on the outside perimeter. .8mm and .4mm widths if you have a .4 nozzle could potentially give you another increase in strength cause there's still a tower on the outside perimeters.

The correct term for the filament reshaping into a thinner element is necking: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necking_(engineering)

i'm now about half tempted to see if I still have the failed number I printed , and then go pull a number off the mailbox send them to you let you cut it open .. One a painted pla part vs unpainted in the house ?? they are even hollow because I was gonna use rgb lights in side the numbers but I found a faster cheaper option that came with solar panel and battery :) oh and this is a south Texas location last summer we had like 80 days over 100 degrees . Heat indexes 120 + degrees what that like 50c ?? wonder what shipping costs lol

i use my old matters

I like hueforge i just wish they didn't use ai art

7:50 It's disgusting that internal nozel patterns can be patented .

WOW HueForge is amazing

What a coincidence, I was just yesterday looking up how hueforge works

I've had PLA prints sitting in full sun, snow, whatever, year on year and they are fine. I made sure to print white so they reflect the sun. They are also printed thick walled. Look the same as when I first put them there.

10:20 Is that AI art? <:s

Uhhh... 3d printed car parts sounds like a very bad idea. With out current tech, this will not be durable nor safe.

That 7 year experiment is super cool. I would have loved to see some ASA samples but I guess that wasn't really a thing at the time...

the street number I printed for my package delivery box are 6" tall white pla I painted black and have been in direct sunlight for deco I think they will live but I bet that are getting brittle next couple years at least ?? or the paint really gonna make a difference to the overall deterioration

If you recreate that experiment, you should paint some samles. Check if paint can protect the platic from the enviroment