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Yes, dogs are wonderful for safety and security, especially with the right training! We don't have any videos about "attack training" but as you've pointed out, if you simply train your dog to Heel, pay attention to someone on cue, or even better, teach your dog to growl or bark on cue, then you'll get most of the benefit without the liability of actually training a dog to attack someone

Yeah, it's good to let dogs be dogs but it's also good to be able to get control when you need it. If your dogs are playing and roughhousing, it's great if you can tell your dog to Come and Sit at any time, to know that you have control. Then, when they've done that, "Go Play" is a wonderful reward! And now you can relax, know that you can stop the play if you need to.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you think so!

Thanks a lot

Yeah, if you don't mind it, it's a non-issue. That said, if you ever have guests over or you take your dogs out to public places, it can be nice to have the ability to control the activity and vocalization. It can be really impressive to have your two dogs playing in a way that looks and sounds scary to an observer, but then you say "Dogs, Sit" and they both stop playing and do an immediate Sit Stay, and then you say "Good Dogs, Go Play" and they jump right back into playing!

How would you define too rough? Too rough for who? The Bully Test (which I believe we describe in this video) is a great way to test that both dogs are enjoying the play session. Simply restrain one dog and see what the other dog does. Then switch which dog is restrained. It is true that active play, especially high-velocity, high-energy play can lead to injuries, even when there is no intention to cause injury. It's just like people playing sports. Yes, if you want to get control over play, you have to integrate training into play and play into training. Don't let them play sessions get crazy, instead, interrupt after just a few seconds, when everyone is still calm. Don't let play resume until your dog listens to you and does a nice Sit-Stay for ten seconds or a Sit-Down-Sit, or a Rollover, or whatever, just to establish that you have control. Of course, basic obedience practice is essential and there are a lot of steps you can take to build up reliability before you try to interrupt a play session, which is a big challenge.

That's what we're here for. Say the stuff that should be obvious but isn't when you're in the thick of it with your own dog and your own life and all the other distractions... Glad you liked it!

You bet!

Do you know "Calming signals" by Turid Rugaas? Her dog went from aggressive to being a trainer for agressive dogs by signalling them to be calm

@@alexandraturnwald2286 Doesn't that imply that any dog (or person) who is anxious will calm down just by your giving them "calming" signals? Look at how one person may use words and body language to calm another down, by gently prompting and calmly reacting to their anxiety? My senior training dog would do that with hundreds of scared or aggressive dogs. Not with some static "signals", but by the total interchange between them. And, virtually any simple "signal" can have any of several quite different meanings, so using some static chart is sure to be wrong much of the time.

​@@gerryglauser2394 what I mean is that some dogs are aggressive because they are frightened and cannot read the other dogs signals I have several chesapeakes and an almost miniature wirehaired dachshound with type 1 Diabetes - if he has a glucose problem he is able to lash out out of fear and feeling unwell, even though the much bigger chesapeakes have a very, very clear body language. If I don't intervene, the little gremlin could get himself in some serious trouble

I'm sorry to hear that. It doesn't seem like this trainer is very good. If your dog isn't dangerous (if they have never harmed another dog) then you should be able to resolve their dog-dog reactivity in a few weeks, or a few months at most, assuming you're willing to do the work. You should join the Top Dog Academy and look at our new Dog-Dog Reactivity Training Plan. We lay it all out super clearly.

Thank you!

Thank you! I'm glad we could help!

Yeah, mental stimulation is so much more important for a dog's overall well-being. Playing with your dog, training your dog, letting your dog sniff or see new and interesting things can all satisfy your dog's need for mental stimulation and lead to a happy dog that sleeps well! Walking a dog is wonderful, if the dog is well trained and the walks are pleasant for all involved.

It's so true. Sniffing can really stimulate a dog's brain. You might want to look into Nose Work for your dog, it can be super fun and very tiring

Dog parks can be a great place to take your dog and a really wonderful place to work on their training because you can practice off-leash control in a distracting but safely confined environment. But it depends on the people and dogs at the park. You shouldn't be afraid to leave a dog park if the people or dogs there are not pleasant to be around. But of course, if you don't want to take your dog to dog parks that's totally fine too. It is good to have regular play dates or walking dates with other dogs to maintain socialization, but that certainly doesn't need to happen at the park

Unfortunately my dog was never socialized. I adopted her when she was 3 yrs. I’ve been working with a trainer for 2 years now. Gypsy doesn’t like other dog. It’s heartbreaking at times. But not all dogs like other dogs. All I do is maintain her anxiety and reactivity to the best of my ability. I never subject her to situations that are uncomfortable for her

It can be hard for some dogs.​@@zsazsak879

Yes, it's true. Exagrerated movement, bouncy movement, wiggly movements are all signs a dog is looking to play. Usually, when dogs are anxious they are stiff and still

Aww... thanks for the kind words! Please subscribe if you haven't already...

Yeah, trying to look at things from the dog's point of view can be invaluable!

Oh wow, that's wonderful. Thank you so much for taking the time to write this comment. Yeah, you've got to lead by example and show your dog there's nothing to be afraid of, even if you're anxious on the inside. That's where setting up training encounters with friends and familiar dogs can be a real confidence booster. Best of luck on your journey!

Yeah, sometimes the littlest dogs have the biggest, roughest play styles! I'm glad this helped!

Glad it was helpful!

Oh good, I'm glad you found this video helpful. Yeah, dogs often need some time to adjust to changes in their surroundings. Too often, people take their dogs walking through new, unfamiliar, dynamic surroundings and it's overwhelming. Far better to find a place to settle down and watch the world go by, getting lots of praise, encouragement, and maybe some treats from their human to make it all seem pleasant and fun. Keep up the great work!

Thanks for joining us for the recent summit! Yeah, it's a simple enough exercise but it's super powerful!

There are certainly exceptions but in general, most aggression is fear-based and if a dog is off-leash and free to move where they please, they will move away from something they're afraid of. If they feel trapped, that's when they might move towards something they perceive as a threat to tell that threatening thing to back off. If the dog is free to move and they're approaching you or your dog, it's probably because they are eager to greet you, though they may lack the social savvy to do so in an appropriate or polite manner. If you're every worried about another dog, the best thing you can do is be still and get your dog to be still, ideally in a Sit Stay, looking at you.

@@DunbarAcademy thanks for the response I really appreciate it

It's in the video! Hand-feed during training, toss into their kibble or onto their bed to encourage them to love those areas, and put the food into hollow chew toys and other enrichment feeders, like Snuffle mats. It really depends on what aspects of your dog's behavior you want to change. Of course, if you're happy with their behavior, you can use a food bowl if you like

Why thank you! I hope you've subscribed, we'll try to make more videos like this in the future!

Oh wow, an expert! 10 minutes to empty a frozen big Kong is very impressive. I'd love to see your pup in action. I guess you could try adding a rigid crossbar element to the inside. Or you could try tethering it to the wall or the inside of a crate to limit the force. There's also the Snoop, which isn't as good for freezing but is a different sort of challenge. Best of luck with your pup, they sound like a smart one!

@@DunbarAcademy he's soo smart, we got him all the puzzle toys we could find but after one session with each he solves them and it takes him no time to get at the food within. I've never met a dog this smart and also this determined to cause chaos 😅 He tries to herd us into the other room so he can chew on the couch and pretends to be sleeping while scooting himself closer to the wires he wants to bite as if we won't notice; he also makes a dive for the bait pouch during training, he is a stubborn but incredibly smart pup

Glad you enjoyed it! Yeah, we've got lots more coming, stay tuned!

Yeah, Biteyface is a Classic Canine Pastime! It's really worthwhile (and sure to impress your friends) if you can teach your dogs to listen to you even during an exciting play session. Dogs, Sit! Good dogs, Down. Good dogs, OK, you can resume Biteyface! You can use their play as a reward in training and it's one of the most powerful rewards, and one of the more challenging situations to get their attention. Which leads to improved reliability in other exciting scenarios.

Glad it was helpful! Yeah, Reactivity and Anxiety are such complex and fascinating topics that cause a lot of trouble in dog training...

Our pleasure, thanks for watching!

Why thank you! We're hoping to make more like this soon... Are you already subscribed?

If your dog was bouncing, your dog was probably inviting the other dog to play. The other dog might not have the confidence to play and they were too intimidated by all the activity and went to hide. Your dog need not be trying to threaten another dog for the other dog to feel threatened. That's where it's really nice if, at any time, you can ask your dog to Sit and Stay. That might give the other dog the confidence to come out and say hello, maybe sniff your dog's butt and who knows, maybe they'd become buddies...

Yeah, a couple tips: 1. If possible, two handlers helps whenever you have two dogs. 2. Let them play for like 5 seconds before interrupting, asking for a couple little obedience skills, and then rewarding them by letting them go back to playing. The shorter the play the easier it will be to regain their attention. Clearly I don't need to tell you that once they're revved up, they're almost impossible to get back under control!

Yeah, that will happen! That's where it's super useful if you can put little time-outs on cue, do a short little training session, then let them go back to playing. The little breaks help them from going completely nutso. Of course, it's can be nice to let them go full nutso sometimes, but it's nice if it can be on your terms and when it's convenient for you.

For sure. Honestly, the reactivity protocols are the same regardless of your dog's history, with one major exception. If a dog has injured another dog in a fight, then you have to approach training completely differently because SAFTEY becomes the #1 priority. Most dogs haven't injured anyone and so you don't need to worry about safety nearly as much.

Either way, what you want to do is teach your dog to Come, Sit-Stay and Watch You, reliably, regardless of what is happening in the environment, and what the other dogs are doing. That will keep your dog out of trouble, and make it very clear to any onlookers whose dog is under control and who is acting inappropriately. Just because other dogs are acting in a socially unacceptable way doesn't mean you shouldn't have control over your dog when you want/need it. But yes, you're probably right, there's a lot of dogs out there with poor social savvy these days!

Glad you enjoyed it

Yes, he is a very good boy! <3 <3 <3

Ha! Oh no, that doesn't sound good! But... is either of your dogs dead? If not, I don't think either one is trying to eat the other. When dogs want to hurt one another, they can do so pretty quickly and easily. Of course, licking is another matter entirely...

Wonderful! Keep up the great work. Yeah, this one's soooo good because it's soooo easy. Any one can do it, it just takes a little patience, and then the results are magical!

The best way to find out if they are both enjoying the activity is to restrain one of them or have one of them go to their bed and Down stay and see what the other does. Does the other dog go up to the restrained dog to try and engage? Or do they enjoy their alone time. Then switch roles to find out how the other dog feels. If they're eager to spend time with one another, then let them be, but if it seems like one or both of them appreciate time apart, then try to make space and time for that. Regardless, it's really useful if you can tell them both to go their bed and settle down on cue, whenever you (or they) need a little quiet time. -Jamie

You are right, socializing puppies with well-socialized, safe, adult dogs can be invaluable. Some dogs are absolutely unbeatable when it comes to teaching dog-dog savvy and manners to pups. Yes, sometimes you should let puppies run around and be crazy, but they also need to learn some manners and impulse control... -Jamie

So I missed the summit is it recorded can I join for future

Yes, puzzle bowls are cool, especially for raw. If you're feeding raw you should check out these tips: dunbar.info/RawForTraining

Yeah, when someone has a reactive dog, it's always interesting to have someone else try walking the dog. Often, a different handler will get different results. Often, a relaxed, confident handler will produce a dog that is much more relaxed and confident! -Jamie

Situations & percentages on the human & canine sides can vary. Bottom line is acquiring skills to assist & even that can vary widely among trainers & behaviorists. It sometimes can take awhile to get on the proper track .

@@nancyd7441 75-80% of the world's dogs are ferrel, free-ranging. Away from humans they adopt rules which in general maintain harmony; that is if they are allowed to do so! If they didn't, they'd have died out long ago. Ferrel animals don't have vets or owners to rescue them when they become victims of damaging bites so they have to evolve behaviours that work in general .... or perish. So I still maintain with most domestic dogs, selected for favourable characteristics, it's largely a human problem ... but yes, sometimes one of genes. Ray Coppinger explains about "grab bite" and "kill bite" and the biological reward systems behind each. A dog with a strong kill bite instinct executes a neurological sequence which is buried deep in its genes and it will go to extraordinary lengths to satisfy the desire to lock onto a throat and kill. Coppinger demonstrates how reward trumps pain by showing pictures of dogs that have massive numbers of porcupine quills speared all over their face and chest. Such instincts cannot be removed by training and even Border Collie's occasionally display it .... at which point their "career" ends.

Glad you liked it!

How do you know that your dog hates the Doodle? A lot of time, dog play looks like aggression, if you don't know how to tell the difference. You might want to check out this video: czcams.com/video/ZrG3SIYDILc/video.html It could be that the Doodle brings over a ball when they want to play with your dog and your dog loves it and off they go! Of course, regardless of what the motivation is, you may not want your dog running off with another dog without your permission, in which case you can should definitely do some impulse control work, first in the presence of other dogs that are less distracting, and then, eventually, in the presence of this Doodle. You might want to talk with the Doodle's owner and see if you can plan a play/training date. -Jamie