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Hi,thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video " Cause revealed " it shows the main cause of failure. I recommend a 5,000 mile engine oil and filter change as a precaution. A check you can do yourself although it's not exact is to check your engine oil level on a regular basis, If it is increasing change your oil / filter and maybe your driving style. My "cause revealed" video explains it all. Thanks again for watching.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I would change the timing belt, 9 years is in the Jaguar recommended time frame to change and why take the risk? Most of the timing belts I have changed have always visually looked in good condition but have been under tension for the number of years fitted or mileage covered. I don't have the equipment to test belts for longevity so have to rely on Jaguar recommendations.

@@crystalclearmechanics I agree that taking an unnecessary risk isn't worth it. However, I want to approach things wisely and with arguments, rather than blindly relying on recommendations, as they always take into account extreme operating conditions, which are absent in this case. It’s logical to assume that an item used by any person can look completely different after 10 years. And when giving any maintenance recommendation, the manufacturer will always cater to those who have used the item more harshly or in more severe conditions. This also makes sense to me.

Hi Trevor, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. It's a siphoning tube, when changing the oil you connect a rubber tube to it and suck the engine oil out of the sump, saves dropping the under tray ( video "Jaguar XF 2.2 diesel oil and filter change using siphon method". ). If you watch my video "Jaguar XF blocked fuel filter" It explains where the bottom electrical plug goes. The plug in the video has a place to push into but is not connected electrically so does not matter.

@@crystalclearmechanics Thank you for your reply and clearing that up! Much appreciated!

Hi John, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. No the HP pump is on the top and at the back of the engine ( in the V ) It's not a hard job, just takes time.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. You have 2 options depending on your skill grade, option 1 fit the old belt and new pulley ( don't try and start the engine ) then compression test all 4 cylinders, that will show if any valves are damaged / bent and which cylinders they are on, you will need to turn the camshaft gently by hand ( spanner ) to align timing pins to fit and time, the crankshaft may need to be turned as well, don't force either. That is how I would start even if I had to take the head off after. Option 2 take the cylinder head off and check for any damage / recondition whichever option you choose I would recommend replacing / renewing the belt / pulley's and water pump before finishing. Feel free to ask more questions or discuss if needed.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes you can get them reprogrammed. Price varies on where you take it.

Hi Phill, thank you for watching and for your feedback, If you look at my video "cause revealed" It shows the main reason for failure. I am inclined to agree with you about the pressed lugs on the shells, I think although apparently not designed for the purpose of stopping the shells from spinning they must help.

Safe mode is usually activated when the fuel level is low, or the engine is not getting enough fuel to operate properly. It goes into safe mode to prevent damage.

Hi Daniel, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Ray, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The part number was JAC2P17132 (both the same) and yes they were £107.15 each less 12.5% for trade total price £225.02 for both. Just a point, the video shows how to fit for the XK not the XKR.Thanks again for watching.

Hi Nick many thanks for the reply. My local garage spoke to Jaguar and was quoted about £160 for the drivers side sensor and £800 for the passenger side!!!! I can only assume Jaguar made an error? Nightmare 😂

@@rayburr7280 Hi Ray, sorry the last sensors I purchased from Jaguar was 18 months ago, checked this morning and they are now £129-26 retail, £116-33 trade both +VAT. There is a centre sensor ( long bar ) which is £807-00 retail less 10% for trade +VAT but the smaller sensors are usually the problem.

@@crystalclearmechanics Hi Nick thanks for the clarification. Can I have the link to the web site please? You have been a great help Cheers

@@rayburr7280 Hi Ray, not sure what web site link you have asked for?

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The exhaust gas heats to 500 degrees, the cooler takes it down to 250-300 degrees before it enters the EGR valve and then the air intake. Inside the cooler manifold is a butterfly flap (like on a carb) the coolant manifold has 2 ports, one is a radiator and the other by-passes the radiator.the butterfly flap alternately shuts each port off when the exhaust gas needs heating or cooling. Usually when the spring is broken the vacuum valve on top of the cooler sucks the valve open and blocks off the cooler radiator, the vacuum valve does close due to the diaphram springing back to it's closed position but it's not strong enough to do the job correctly, This is why sometimes the light stays off for a while. As for driving with that problem you need to get the dealers OK, the responsibility if anything else goes wrong then stays with them. .If I remember correctly (don't quote me) Jaguar will only sell the complete unit EGR valve cooler etc and it was very expensive, once the new component is fitted it will need to be adapted to the car. Thanks again for watching.

Hi Barry, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, did you have any fault lights on before replacing the EGR. If the engine ran for 2 mins and then died, it sounds like a fuel issue. I can't be sure as i'm not there. You just need to top the coolant up, no need to bleed.

@@crystalclearmechanics Hi, I had P245A, light on. Changed ERG, did OBDII scan, no faults, and I can see EGR working, however, now I read it has to be adapted with SDD Jag software, which is on the way ;) After disconnecting the battery I lost the key connectivity, but SDD should sort it as well :) gotta love jags :D Topped up coolant by about a glass, and it was ok. Maybe it is fuel issue, but the funny thing is, I started the car, idled for 15 mins, then when I drove it problem appeared. We will see when my SDD kit arrives and I fix keys frist :) I will let you know how I get on . Thank you for your reply!

@@UnknownUnrecognized Hi, yes it should be adapted if a new one is fitted. It's odd that it's not showing a fault code now that the engine cut and will not start. With some of those when the battery is disconnected they lose the central locking and have to be reprogrammed.

@@crystalclearmechanics Ok, thank you. Once software and obd kit arrives, first fix the keys , then adapt egr... :) gotta love modern cars, should have kept my 20 y old volvo with 500k km on it haha :)

@@crystalclearmechanics Btw, what menu in SDD did you chose to adapt new EGR?

Hi Bryan. thank you for watching and for your feedback. The PCV (High fuel pressure contol valve / regulator) is fitted on the side of the high pressure fuel pump, that regulates the fuel rail pressure, The VCV valve (fuel volume control valve) fits above the PCV and points to the front of the engine. Look at my video "2.7 diesel TD V6 Cylinder Head Removal about 40 minutes in, it shows the high pressure fuel pump with the 2 valves with the electric plug connections. PS, what issue do you have, It's hard to diagnose remotely but I may be able to help.

Hi Steve, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I'm surprised you could not find a Jaguar main agent in your country. Which sensors did you buy?

Bumper sensors - the whole camera system packs it in if one is out. Need to take the bumper off but very easy to fit. I find it hard to get Jaguar parts in Aus and they’re way overpriced at the dealer.

Hi Lukas, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I'm glad the video helped. I've just released a video on the rear camera which could be of interest. Thanks again.

This is what I m fighting with right now. I m getting the egr off and using some gasket sealant. Hope it works. I don t recommend touching to put sealant on top of gasket with the egr still mounted.

@@Robcuisimplu I got entire egr from other jag, will swap it next week, and let you know where I stand (if I don't forget). I will also take apart the old one where it leaks, looks like it is a rubber membrane or something there. Let me know how you get on, take some pictures too, how it looks inside please:)

@@Robcuisimplu I took egr out today, 2.5 h, very bad placements of bolts... 1/8 of movement etc... anyways, installed new egr, car was fine then died, battery died and keys not recognized no more... anyways, took apart the leaking one, there is a mental gasket, WELDED to the body by temp, I wasn't able to take it off, just bend a bit to see what's behind it... and it is a rubber kinda oring seal, can't be replaced... how did u get on?

@@Robcuisimplu mate, how did u get on? after changing mine car died, idled for 10 min, drove it now died... cranks no start

Hi, no I didn't, that code refers to fuel rail pressure to high.

Thank you

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Adam, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I will do a quick video on the actuator soon. If the door only opens or locks then 1 of the small electric motors in the actuator has stopped working and needs replacing, as far as i know aftermarket motors are available and are easy to fit if someone wants to do it that way.

Hi Kevin, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes 326.

Thank you

I have a 2014 jaguar xf 2.2 diesel with 105.000 miles and I have a problem with the fuel consumption. On a long journey it is around 7.5l/100km(37mpg) not driving fast. I usually cover 400 miles with a full tank driving mostly outside town. I have no error codes, the car runs normal, I have replaced air filter, oil and oil filter every 6000 miles. Recently, I ran a can of liqui moly diesel purge directly to the feed and return pipes of the fuel system but nothing changed. What else do you think I should do?

Hi Stefan,thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes I will help if I can, what is the problem?

I have a 2014 jaguar xf 2.2 diesel with 105.000 miles and I have a problem with the fuel consumption. On a long journey it is around 7.5l/100km(37mpg) not driving fast. I usually cover 400 miles with a full tank driving mostly outside town. I have no error codes, the car runs normal, I have replaced air filter, oil and oil filter every 6000 miles. Recently, I ran a can of liqui moly diesel purge directly to the feed and return pipes of the fuel system but nothing changed. What else do you think I should do?

@@stefandraganescu1946 Hi Stefan, How do you measure your fuel consumption ie car onboard computer or driving over a tank full or do you fill up the tank drive a certain number of miles say 60 then fill the tank again to see how many litres / gallons used? The intank float / fuel level sensors do have issues and can show false readings. Have you always had the bad fuel consumption, if not when did you notice it and was any work carried out on the car previously?. Have you confirmed there are no fuel leaks? Have you checked for air/vacuum leaks? Your car has covered 105,000 miles, has the cam timing belt been replaced? It is due a change. Let me know on the above then we can go further.

Hi, thank you for your response! Yesterday I filled up with 53.3l(11.7 gal) that lasted 657km(408.2 mi) since the last fill up. I calculated a fuel consumption of 8.1l/100km(34.8 mpg, I hope my conversions are right). 400km were done outside town and the rest in city driving. I don't know if this is right for this car but my girlfriend's 3 series gets 5.6l/100km(50.4 mpg) on the same outside town commute and with 50/50 city/outside driving. I'm not expecting such economy but for me it seems pretty poor for the jag. The fuel consumption is the same since I bought it one year ago. I can't find any evident fuel or vacuum/boost leaks and the timing belt was changed by the previous owner. The car runs fine but holds the revs at 2700-3000 when going uphill at 25-30 mph even that there is not sugh a big incline. Other cars I've driven change gear at much lower rpm. I think it is holding the 2nd gear for too long. Sometimes it does a similar thing when going from a stop, it takes pretty long to change to 3rd, revving the engine to 2500 and holding it there a bit(usually shifts at 2000) even though the accelerator imput is small and I expect it to shift faster and at lower rpm. Also, on the first few miles of the day, when coasting I feel the downshifts like a little brake applied for each gear. Usually I can't feel them. And the last concern is that on a longer trip, alfer a couple of hours, I experienced a loss of power, it was very hard to overtake and to accelerate uphill, the revs were climbing slower than normal but they went to the redline as usual. The car didn't show any warning or check engine light and there was no error code stored. The next day the problem disappeared, it didn't happen again but also I haven't made such a long journey since then.

Hi, yes that can happen but you will be having a cup of tea whan you have taken the engine out thinking, well that was easy.

Hi Dan, thank you for watching and for your feedback. A question is never stupid, It's how we learn new things. With an automatic I leave it in park but it does not make a difference which position you put it in.

Hi Ian, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The vacuum valve fitted on top of the manifold with the electrical connection ( check the electrical connection is good ) triggers the fault code if it does not open and shut correctly, it's the spring coil that snaps which is hard to see but if you're sure the spring is sound then check the vacuum valve arm is moving freely , if not then check the vacuum pipe to the vacuum valve has vacuum also disconnect the vacuum arm to the lever (spring end) and check the lever moves freely and is tensioned. The diaphragm in the vacuum valve could be faulty or the valve itself could be faulty. The lever (spring end) operates a butterfly valve inside the manifold which allows exhaust gas to go through or bypass the radiator in the manifold. .

@crystalclearmechanics thank you kindly for a quick reply and details. I have disconnected the arm, and the gate returns fully. When the engine is switched off. Around 4 minutes later, the vacuum releases the arm and shuts again. But it looks like the arm is full in the diaphragm, i.e., in the open possession all the time. I will check the connections and wiring. Thank you kindly once again 🙏