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Excellent ,thanks

Great video. Thank for creating and posting this.

Thanks for sharing this with us a really informative real life check

Cool. And very good that you get straight to the point without talk or bs

Great vid thanks. I’m a new A&P. Well a new old one lol. Thanks,for,this. Great job.

Hey! I was there then and saw myself in the video!! Too funny!

Thanks for this video. May have just saved me from a mistake to purchase one of these planes. Those wings look like a nightmare. 😅

Great video Really enjoyed it. Thank you very much

One thing that I as an I.A. I do is remove the gear motor. I have found the splines damaged with some missing. Also, I check the brushes and give it a good visual inspection. I removed one motor and gave it the "sniff" test and it smelled as though it had been burning. The owner then fessed up the his gear had been retracting "very slow lately".

Why does "Air Dave" look so mean, stressed and angry in this video? He needs to relax or he will shortens life expectancy.

You mention installing nutplates in the wing for the fairing. How are nutplares installed in wood?

i just bought a 1970 super viking. i want to know what it would cost to recover the whole plane and paint it,

Dave, great video. Really helps underline pre flight checks….and the why?, Q: the inboard right gear door is super tight, buckling up tight, even when i take a turn off the crank handle when i leave it larked the left inner door opens 1/4 turn but the right is still 2 middle finger to move it al all tight…worried bout stressing the bracketry….easy fix ? + where is your shop located? My A+P is not. bonanza guy and does not see how to fix it without having the other door open and dragging in flight…..

Great vid Dave, Thanks for the leg work on camera setup/lighting and crooking you neck to explain whats going on. As an IA working on 3 F33A's at a flight school this vid is pretty much the same procedures as we do on the gear system athough there are a lot more steps as you mentioned. The Beech Aero Club checklist is by far the best LG checklist, much better then the maint. manual. Some key things that I have run across, 1) unhooking the lower nose gear door rods.....we only unhook the bottom side and put a bungee to hold the doors open, much easier, never had a problem with them catching and jamming. 2) The uplock rollers on this has the old style zerks, that uplock cable must have the plastic straw in place next to that zerk or it could catch and jam the gear in up position. 3) We replace the nose gear retract push pull tube rod ends every 2000 hrs....not that hard to do. 4) Torque up the transmission bolts that are secured to airframe from bottom panel, after 100s of cycles they will loosen and hog out the airframe bracket holes.

awesome... thank you!

wow great video thanks for sharing this with the world

Very well presented presentation and easily comprehended, well spoken! Thank you for taking the time to share! I will employ these details to my continued work on wood structures in aircraft as I add these nuggets to my “basket of tools”.

Great video! I hope to own a Bonanza someday!

is that the same bolt on the 14-19-3? How long are the AN3C?

Thank you sir! Helps me with my new 1968 E33 I appreciate you making this video.

Professor Dave, where have you been all my life? You have set a new standard, collegiate level information. I wish this was available decades ago. And seriously, please, please do the valve lapping video. Also....how did you aim the scope to get up and behind the valve to look at the stem. (I have been practicing with my Vividia, but..???) This video should be required viewing for one's A&P!!!!

Do you have the corrected part number for the shorter down spring that is only 42 rings not the 45 rings. my 14-19-3 main landing gear spring is shorter and the factory will not tell me the correct part number. I have been waiting quit some time. my part book shows only one part number for all the springs.

This is the best ever seen video of engine maintenance... Thank You, and Congratz !

Awesome!!! Very informative video. Thank You

how can i get one? do you have a landing light lens for a 14-19-3? I am looking every where for one. Bellenca factory sent me a viking landing light lens not the right one.

Thanks! i just top overhauled my o-470. great information.

Dave, I really appreciate this excellent video. Thank you. I have had my mechanic scope my cylinders at every annual since that became an option. Unfortunately his scope doesn’t record photos. After watching your video, I purchased the latest Vividia VA400 v5 with a WiFi box attached last week (directly from them to get the latest version per a comment on BT) so I can maintain a sequential photographic record of my cylinders. Oasis should have you on the payroll….My only comment on the scope is their software is a PIA to record to a late model iPhone and iPad and I couldn’t get it to talk to my win10 laptop as you managed to do. The shutter button on the scope isn’t functional, but the on/off button on the WiFi transmitter worked as a shutter. The scope is easy to maneuver and the images are excellent. Unfortunately when I attempted to select all the photos in the wifiImage apps folder to move them…they vanished. Before my next annual, I need an app for Win 10.

Glad you got to park in the S40. As a volunteer in flight line operations and aircraft marshaling, we appreciate videos like yours to help us improve our service.

Dave, thank you for this video! It was very educational, and it definitely helped us out with some issues on our landing gear.

Thanks Dave, just started as new a&p working solely on Beechcraft and your film is right on. The fellow training me goes so fast with these checks its hard to keep up. Your film gives me the time to better understand procedures. Thanks! Great job!

Synthetic might be so incredibly thin that you can't stop...

Well done, Good info even for mechanics to see how its done correctly.

I just had my Lycoming O-360 cylinder #3 suddenly shooting lots of oil out of the cylinder through the exhaust pipe. I have a short independent exhaust pipe on each cylinder. Like an L shape short exhaust pipe. So, I can see the condition of each exhaust pipe independently. At first I thought, would it be the oil ring broken? I have borescoped the cylinder and the valves and I see the exhaust valve doing the same thing your valve in your minute 26 does, it moves sideways when opening then back when closing. I don't understand why the oil spilling out the exhaust happened so sudden. Could it be the oil seal ring stuck due to gunk inside its spring thus not allowing to expand and seal oil away from combustion chamber? I haven't seen any scratches on the cylinder either. The compression is about 64/80 the valve seat is not bad. But that side move is actually there. All the other cylinders are pretty good on compression 78/80 or better. I am thinking about replacing #3 with a new Superior and skip any tentative to fix the one in place. Any tips?

Excellent Video Dave , very educational

New to the Bellanca but it is easy to see your expertise! Thanks and keep it coming!

Great video can you do a video on gear power pack install and removal

Saw you at Oshkosh this year, and thanks for a fantastic concise video here. Going to Borescope mine this coming up weekend, I think the key of course will be the interpretation

I've always had admiration for these aircraft but until your video had no idea about what might happen to these vital components, such as the spar. You mentioned about how you've seen damage to the spar ("rot") in some aircraft. I don't suppose you could comment on just what a repair like that would entail and/or cost? Would there be the possibility of finding a used plane where it is essentially completely beyond repair due to these wood issues? Great video though -- extremely informative and well presented.

Love this channel, keep it up!

Thank you for the video.

No Super Viking?

It was great to meet David at Oshkosh and looking forward to him taking care of my Bellanca.

Thanks for your informative video. I'm flying a Sêneca 2 with 150hr after tbo. In the last 50hr of flying I suffered two escape valve failures. At 100hr the left engine number 3 cylinder didn't hold the pressure, compression was 38psi and escaped via the escape valve. At 150hr it was the right engine number 1 cilinder, same symptoms. All other cylinder compressions where between 75psi and 80psi, three of them at 80psi. The maintenance was blaming me the pilot to fly to poor, (same maintenance that sold the plane to my boss last year). I'm flying at 75% between 30,6 and 31 Pol, depending on my flight level like the manual is telling me to do, egt round about 1400F. That gives me a fuel consumption around 12.2 - 12.5 gal per hour each engine. The cylinders are P15. Now I will replace all valve rotator and valve springs. Hopefully that will eliminate the problem.

Trying to remove a rotator cap from a lycoming jug but it’s different than the continental. Any tips on removing the little cap without damaging it?

Outstanding.

Awesome presentation! Used it as a guide going through my annual.

Another great video by Dave. The best Bellanca content out there.

Thanks Dave, educational as always

Hey Dave. Great idea using penetrating oil for diagnosing these cracks. I don't own a Bellanca but will keep your idea in my tool bag of Dx technics. Thanks.

Dave: Thank you for sharing this. The weld test process using penetrating oil was new to me.