Great vid Dave, Thanks for the leg work on camera setup/lighting and crooking you neck to explain whats going on. As an IA working on 3 F33A's at a flight school this vid is pretty much the same procedures as we do on the gear system athough there are a lot more steps as you mentioned. The Beech Aero Club checklist is by far the best LG checklist, much better then the maint. manual. Some key things that I have run across, 1) unhooking the lower nose gear door rods.....we only unhook the bottom side and put a bungee to hold the doors open, much easier, never had a problem with them catching and jamming. 2) The uplock rollers on this has the old style zerks, that uplock cable must have the plastic straw in place next to that zerk or it could catch and jam the gear in up position. 3) We replace the nose gear retract push pull tube rod ends every 2000 hrs....not that hard to do. 4) Torque up the transmission bolts that are secured to airframe from bottom panel, after 100s of cycles they will loosen and hog out the airframe bracket holes.
I didn't know how most of these components worked together, now I have a much better understanding. I will now know what I am looking at during pre-flight! Thanks for that excellent video!
One thing that I as an I.A. I do is remove the gear motor. I have found the splines damaged with some missing. Also, I check the brushes and give it a good visual inspection. I removed one motor and gave it the "sniff" test and it smelled as though it had been burning. The owner then fessed up the his gear had been retracting "very slow lately".
Excellent video and everything is explained very clearly. Watching the swift and smooth gear extension and retraction without hesitation/groaning noises as common in other makes really underscores how straightforward yet well-designed the landing system is. Ralph Harmon (the chief engineer behind the landing gear) really did an outstanding job.
Thanks Dave, just started as new a&p working solely on Beechcraft and your film is right on. The fellow training me goes so fast with these checks its hard to keep up. Your film gives me the time to better understand procedures. Thanks! Great job!
Great video going into great detail. An A36 that I used to work on the up lock arm had corroded and was going to fail good idea to remove the boots and have a good look. From a fellow IA.
A couple other things to look for, check the nose gear retract brace attach bolts torque at the keels, I've found those loose also there's a bearing in there that can come loose and rotate away from the lube hole, you'll get lube coming out but you're not actually lubing anything, also there's a shear pin on the nose gear retract rod on the rh aft side of the nose gear well, I've found these almost worn through. There's several other things that really needs looking at but to many to list, make sure you insist your maintenance tech use a Beechcraft Maintenance manual and the manual will clearly state what kind of external power is needed, although this gear is really tough don't take any chances!! It's a lot cheaper than repairing your belly skin!! I've been working on Beechcraft aircraft for 30+ years and my last employer we had 27 Bonanza's and 20 Baron's in our flight school and I'd do a complete gear removal and teardown overhaul every 2000 flight hrs, I hope this helps.
@@AirDavePasqualeAviation I figured as much, it was a very good video after all those years of working on Beechcraft aircraft you'd be surprised an what I've seen! 🤔🤯😄😄 Keep up the great videos.
Great video Dave! What if once you get the 1/8-1/4 turn hand-crank set for UP and DOWN cycles, the in-flight clearance on DOWN is 1/2 turn? How does that happen? Stipstream? Was set a 1/8 turn but in-flight measures 1/2. Humm?
Dave, great video. Really helps underline pre flight checks….and the why?, Q: the inboard right gear door is super tight, buckling up tight, even when i take a turn off the crank handle when i leave it larked the left inner door opens 1/4 turn but the right is still 2 middle finger to move it al all tight…worried bout stressing the bracketry….easy fix ? + where is your shop located? My A+P is not. bonanza guy and does not see how to fix it without having the other door open and dragging in flight…..
I typically disconnect the outboard gear doors just before retracting the gear to check up lock clearance, side brace to skin clearance, and up stop bolt for contact.
Great vid Dave, Thanks for the leg work on camera setup/lighting and crooking you neck to explain whats going on. As an IA working on 3 F33A's at a flight school this vid is pretty much the same procedures as we do on the gear system athough there are a lot more steps as you mentioned. The Beech Aero Club checklist is by far the best LG checklist, much better then the maint. manual. Some key things that I have run across, 1) unhooking the lower nose gear door rods.....we only unhook the bottom side and put a bungee to hold the doors open, much easier, never had a problem with them catching and jamming. 2) The uplock rollers on this has the old style zerks, that uplock cable must have the plastic straw in place next to that zerk or it could catch and jam the gear in up position. 3) We replace the nose gear retract push pull tube rod ends every 2000 hrs....not that hard to do. 4) Torque up the transmission bolts that are secured to airframe from bottom panel, after 100s of cycles they will loosen and hog out the airframe bracket holes.
Great video
Really enjoyed it.
Thank you very much
Great vid thanks. I’m a new A&P. Well a new old one lol. Thanks,for,this. Great job.
Excellent presentation!
I didn't know how most of these components worked together, now I have a much better understanding. I will now know what I am looking at during pre-flight! Thanks for that excellent video!
One thing that I as an I.A. I do is remove the gear motor. I have found the splines damaged with some missing. Also, I check the brushes and give it a good visual inspection. I removed one motor and gave it the "sniff" test and it smelled as though it had been burning. The owner then fessed up the his gear had been retracting "very slow lately".
Very nice video, Dave - thanks for making this, I learned a few things!
- Martin
Thank you sir! Helps me with my new 1968 E33 I appreciate you making this video.
Excellent video and everything is explained very clearly. Watching the swift and smooth gear extension and retraction without hesitation/groaning noises as common in other makes really underscores how straightforward yet well-designed the landing system is. Ralph Harmon (the chief engineer behind the landing gear) really did an outstanding job.
@Galileo7of9 Check out books by Larry Ball which chronicle the history of the Bonanza.
Great video! I hope to own a Bonanza someday!
Absolutely LOVE the measurement devices! Great attention to detail. Keep up the good work.
Great video!
Excellent video, well edited, too! Thanks!
Nicely Done! Concise and to the point.
Thanks Dave. Trick using feeler gage is very clever idea. Now I can get accurate reading
Great video and very informative.
Thanks very much for producing this excellent video and sharing these techniques.
Thanks a ton for posting this video!!!! Super clear and nicely explained.
Excellent info and well presented.....
Dave, thank you for this video! It was very educational, and it definitely helped us out with some issues on our landing gear.
Very detailed. Thank you.
Thanks Dave, just started as new a&p working solely on Beechcraft and your film is right on. The fellow training me goes so fast with these checks its hard to keep up. Your film gives me the time to better understand procedures. Thanks! Great job!
Great video going into great detail. An A36 that I used to work on the up lock arm had corroded and was going to fail good idea to remove the boots and have a good look. From a fellow IA.
Very helpful. Thanks.
A couple other things to look for, check the nose gear retract brace attach bolts torque at the keels, I've found those loose also there's a bearing in there that can come loose and rotate away from the lube hole, you'll get lube coming out but you're not actually lubing anything, also there's a shear pin on the nose gear retract rod on the rh aft side of the nose gear well, I've found these almost worn through.
There's several other things that really needs looking at but to many to list, make sure you insist your maintenance tech use a Beechcraft Maintenance manual and the manual will clearly state what kind of external power is needed, although this gear is really tough don't take any chances!! It's a lot cheaper than repairing your belly skin!!
I've been working on Beechcraft aircraft for 30+ years and my last employer we had 27 Bonanza's and 20 Baron's in our flight school and I'd do a complete gear removal and teardown overhaul every 2000 flight hrs, I hope this helps.
Thank you for the info. We check more than was covered in this video. This video is just showing the rigging inspection procedure.
@@AirDavePasqualeAviation I figured as much, it was a very good video after all those years of working on Beechcraft aircraft you'd be surprised an what I've seen! 🤔🤯😄😄
Keep up the great videos.
Well done, Good info even for mechanics to see how its done correctly.
Mt plane is the co star!
Great video Dave! What if once you get the 1/8-1/4 turn hand-crank set for UP and DOWN cycles, the in-flight clearance on DOWN is 1/2 turn? How does that happen? Stipstream? Was set a 1/8 turn but in-flight measures 1/2. Humm?
Dave, great video. Really helps underline pre flight checks….and the why?, Q: the inboard right gear door is super tight, buckling up tight, even when i take a turn off the crank handle when i leave it larked the left inner door opens 1/4 turn but the right is still 2 middle finger to move it al all tight…worried bout stressing the bracketry….easy fix ? + where is your shop located? My A+P is not. bonanza guy and does not see how to fix it without having the other door open and dragging in flight…..
I appreciate you taking the time to share this information! Very clear explanation, Dave. Where is your shop located?
I'm at N47 Pottstown PA.
@@AirDavePasqualeAviation I was hoping you’d be closer to me on the West Coast. Best of luck to you and your business!
Shouldn't you disconnect the outbound gear doors from the mains?
I typically disconnect the outboard gear doors just before retracting the gear to check up lock clearance, side brace to skin clearance, and up stop bolt for contact.