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Yeah, it is! Use gallery 75 for your pre-emergent. I used that this year and it's really kept the majority of chamber bitter from coming back. I've seen it here and there in a couple areas where I must have missed applying it well. But so far so good. I think if I get another good fall application, it will completely eliminate it. That product is expensive but I think it's worth it if you have a bad case

I get it! My goal wasn't to deter anyone from doing a project like this, but to lay out the expectations for what's involved.

@@GriffithLawnLabs Definitely! Great content here, I’m glad you shared. I’m sure it’s on a lot of our minds. Is it worth it!?

Thanks! Ain't that the truth!

Trick question? Answer: Neither

Mike's crew got the skills to take on tougher jobs. They'd get it done

I have Android, but it should be out there on the app store for iPhone.

Good to know! Thanks for sharing

It might seem like free time has no cost, but it's actually your most valuable resource. Even if you're not being paid, your time has worth because it could be spent on other valuable activities or goals. Considering the opportunity cost can help you make better decisions about how you spend your time on DIY projects.

@@GriffithLawnLabs You can also see it this way. Money is the finite resource too. If I only have 5000 per year I can either spend it on my home or go on a vacation. I cannot do both

That's incredible!

If you have large dips like that, fill most of the hole with dirt from elsewhere on your property, and leave about 1 inch from being level with the ground. Pack the dirt down well to prevent sinking. Then, fill the rest with a mix of 70% topsoil and 30% sand, Smooth it out. If you have a large bare spot, you can either seed (cool season grass) or use sod plugs (warm season grass) to fill in the area quicker. This method is cost-effective for large holes.

Thanks for the kind words! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Your support means a lot

Looks like you’ve got it all figured out! 😄

I wish I knew! Everything is so expensive

We used the drag to break them up before putting down the sand

You're right, grass clippings are great for adding nitrogen back into the soil. I do recommend using a good mulching blade to recycle nutrients. Always keep it sharp too! In situations with frequent rain, it may not allow for us to get out there and mow. The grass grows quickly, and in this case, you might need to remove clippings after you've cut to prevent damage from clumps sitting on top of the grass.

@@GriffithLawnLabs thank you, I understand it’s application better now! It helps to have the right tools for the job. Thanks for sharing again, I enjoyed it!

Doing it myself cost around $1,500 for materials and tools, plus about $800 estimate for my time, totaling $2,300. Check the video description for detailed products and links.

100 tons!? That's a massive project. Was that for 2-3 acres? I've mowed a few times since my leveling project, and the difference in the look and feel of the grass is incredible.

@@GriffithLawnLabs yeah, it was 2 acres 😁. My neighbors didn’t have a clue as to what I was doing when they saw me dumping and spreading all of sand, lol. They finally started asking, and then they understood. I did mine coming out of the winter. I had common Bermuda. I scalped it right as it was starting to green up. Threw fertilizer down, and irrigated the next day. Man,…it came out really!!! I was so proud of myself when it greened and thickened up.

That's awesome! I had a couple of neighbors come out and ask what we were doing too! Same experience

Did my wife tell you to say that? 😆

No joke! 😂

@@GriffithLawnLabs at first I was psyched at how easily it rolls. And I’m on the south shore of log island, so it’s flaaaaaat around here. Then I tried to get it to stand still by my car when I unloaded bags of mulch. Amazing what a little tiny slope in the driveway will do!,

Only reason I stayed with the wheel barrel

(Barrow)

@@vernacular1483 nope, it's a barrel. Made it myself 😋

Thanks! I hadn't heard of it doing that before, but thanks for bringing it to my attention. I wanted to avoid topsoil because of the wood chips.

@GriffithLawnLabs The wood chips! I went ahead and made a dirt filter screen for my wheel barrel. Sifting out Rocks and wood chips.

I have done this before too. Built one out of chicken wire (mesh) and it took forever to screen it through, because the gaps were small - too small.

@@GriffithLawnLabs We live and learn right. Lol

Hah..wrong

Using sand is best for leveling minor ruts and dips in your yard, but it doesn't change the underlying soil. I got straight clay under there and that's never gonna change. The sand just helps create a smooth, even surface.

every golf course uses sand. the grass grows through it and the sand does not break down over time.

Thanks! If you're on the north side of ATL, they may not deliver to you, but I got it from these guys... www.yardtimeinc.com/

@@GriffithLawnLabs Ah good to know. Well at least I know I can ask for dry sand. Just did 9 cubic yards of not totally dry sand to my yard and it wasn't fun lol.

Oh man! I bet! Glad you made it out alive LOL

Masonry sand is cleaner, more consistent, and reduces risk of introducing weeds compared to river sand, plus it improves drainage and spreads more easily.

@@GriffithLawnLabs Masonry sand has the exact opposite effect on drainage I think you'll find due to it being much less course, it's also a bugger for compaction.

@@Thimeri0n exactly right. People use mason sand because it spreads easier due to the rounded and uniform nature - but yeah it's pretty bad for soil health/drainage. Anyone who does this is probably going to be on a watering and fertilizer/inputs program forever after they do this. But TBH anyone who does this probably was already obsessed enough with their lawn to be doing that anyway. For actually improving clay tilth sharp sand and organic matter is much better. Of course so is clover mixed into your lawn as a nitrogen fixer - I don't think we're going to convince the "golf lawn" guys of that one either though.

@@krisroadruck5081hah wrong

Yes, definitely easier with Bermuda compared to something like St. Augustine that you can't cut short.

The video aims to show general DIY vs. professional costs, and I also discussed the average costs of those pieces of equipment we used, so you can rent if you want to go that route. If you're in the Atlanta area, renting equipment through Mike could be an option. Thanks for watching and I hope this helps.

A wise man told me that 😁

That's awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience with them

Hope you find a cool alternative activity for today😂 Thanks for checking out the video!

Glad you liked it!

Make sure your lawn gets enough water, especially with the current hot and dry weather. Apply the 28-0-1 fertilizer first to address nutrient needs. You can use baby shampoo instead of Dawn liquid dish soap to improve soil moisture retention, and apply it with grated iron right after the fertilizer for an immediate health/green-up effect, but only do this if the main fertilizer doesn't already have a lot of iron.

You could look into a product called hydretain. I have not used it before, but I have seen/heard good things.

I mentioned it in the video: it's usually 30 to 40 cents per square foot. Just do the math based on your yard size. Thanks for watching!

or even multiple times a year for depending on severity and patience.

That's right! Thanks for pointing that out. I have a few spots in the yard that will need multiple layers, especially around the curb where I need to build up to make it level with the concrete.

When it comes to lawn care, we're in it for the long haul.

Thanks George! Mike really came through in a big way. We tag-teamed it, and got everything done in about 3 hours.

Thanks for your question! I live in GA. The active ingredient in Gallery 75 is Isoxaben 75%, but it doesn’t specifically list torpedograss. That is a really tough weed from what I've heard. Here is some information on how to get rid of it: thelawncarenut.com/blogs/news/how-to-get-rid-of-torpedo-grass-in-your-lawn#:~:text=Glyphosate%20is%20a%20non%2Dselective,An%20error%20occurred.

I pulled the application rates from here: yardmastery.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/4404809755031-What-are-the-application-rates-for-Greene-County-N-Ext-liquids. The rate listed there for Sea-K is 0.5 oz per gallon, and I was putting down 4 gallons. I always empty out my 4 gallon sprayer on my 10,000 sq ft area. Did I miss something, because getting it right is what matters! Thanks!