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Prices really spiked. It's still cheaper than a hvac tech to install.

If you watch the end of the video you'll see.

Thanks for the thoughtful comment. I'm in the Midwest and we see temps in the mid 90s and sometimes a hundred. If you're using city water, definitely use a calcium filter. The hardness is something to test for or watch for. Humidity varies between 40 to 60% its quite a large range of conditions. Since you don't get much rain, I would invest in plastic cisterns 500 gallon or more, so when it does rain, you can capture a lot. Another thing to consider is precooling, running the ac really really early before it gets hot, this will also reduce power/ energy consumption as air into the condensor is cooler. I seen about a 15-20% decrease in doing this. The hotter the ambient temp.is the more savings you'll see with misters.. Hope that helps.

@@stem_saving1644 Thanks for the response. I am going to throw together some misters to test the effectiveness. I'll prbably use an irrigation valve, like you did. I live in a community where I don't have a lot of room outside so I'm not sure I could store that much water. First things first. I'll mist the condenser, test current and outlet temperature and see what the improvement is.

@mrschwarz1950 you could even use a garden hose with an adjustable sprayer for a test. Let me know what your results are for your area.

It's really all dependent on your loads. The more efficient your house becomes, the smaller the system becomes. That's the key to getting quicker pay backs.

No odor, just check engine light.

Just like how it's wired in the video..... to the 26v signal coming from the small thermostat wires.

@@stem_saving1644 ok thank you. I was having trouble hearing that part of the video and wasn't sure.

You can read codes and reset them using torque lite

@@stem_saving1644 can you read all codes or just basic codes? Thank you

@Fastarrow12322 not sure what you mean. If there is a fault code, you can read it.

Never came back on since it was reset. If it does, it could also be the gas cap or another leak.

You will need 40-60psi of pressure condensate pump probably won't supply enough pressure or water.... depends on how many misters you run. I have 50 gallon barrels for my old mister.

If it's the code in the video you can try replacing or tightening the gas cap or replacing the device in the video.

If it's non isolated you should be able to.

@@stem_saving1644 i used 2 of this modules and used same ground no problem in my car

Not sure what arrow you're referring to?

Not even sure what you're remotely talking about.

Not sure what sound insulation is or what its characteristics are.

You didn't watch the end? Nothing left to work with.

The measurements are accurate, I measured both ways energy can enter the space. Radiant and convection. It's the total energy rejection that's what's important. If radiant energy is converted into heat and omitted, it's pointless. Which is why the film heats up so much. The film on the inside should not reach the levels of heat seen. Overall, the interior film is junk. I'll agree that exterior film is better as the heat can be dissipated via conduction.

@@stem_saving1644 It's not junk. It's just misunderstood by many because 3M has misleading specs. I rarely suggest these films if heat rejection is the primary goal. I've never been a big fan of 3M, but we use a lot of different brands and products since we have many different challenges and requests from our customers. I live where some people actually could use this film in the winter as a benefit of the heat absorption 🤣 🤣As I said before we mostly use 3M prestige on historic buildings or for customers that need to protect valuable furnishings and artwork from UV and IR. Have you tested a single-pane glass? We don't see much single-pane glass in the Northern States, but I believe it should perform better on single-pane glass since the heat can't get trapped in a dual-pane. Glass naturally absorbs more heat like asphalt roofs and driveways. This is why exterior metalized and ceramic films are more effective for heat rejection. Reflecting the heat away from the glass to reduce heat absorption is key. It's not as simple as it sounds when you realize glass and many materials on buildings and homes absorb the sun's heat quickly.

That's what's troubling for the software fix, if you take years to unlock the full capacity, then by the time it's unlocked, the warranty could be over. That was my gripe. If I'm paying for 259 miles, I had better get that or pay less if I'm getting less. The bolt got its pack replacement, and it seems to be doing well. Probably should make a video on it.

Good to hear. I'm thinking about getting a used 2020 bolt with the 6200 sw test/ charge limit.

@@stem_saving1644 also don’t let them tell you the shifter is a joy stick ,it is a slap stick! Move the console forward and use your finger tips to shift! Many complained that they can’t grab the joystick and in over 3 years driving it I never have! Hope you got the premier as the digital rear view mirror and over head camera are all I will own from now on! I can see 6 lanes of traffic behind me with no blind spots actually working better than full size truck mirrors!

Shouldn't if the miles/kwh counter is cleared.

I'd would keep what the car came with. The leaft had ecopias, bolt had Michelen energy savers. I was able to get 4.3 miles/kwh on the bolt. Thanks for the feedback, consider subscribing.

No, you missed the technical points

Power in the summer 3500- 4500 and winter 5500-7k temp drives the power.

So you didn't get a new pack? If you reset the range counter and don't use heat, that will tell you your true mileage. Warmer weather also increases this.

​@@stem_saving1644No, 2020-2022 does not get a new battery unless the software flags it. You can only charge to 80% for 6,214 miles, if no problem is detected it automatically goes back 100% charge. Yes, running the heat drops range significantly, we also have had a Volt for 10 years, so we knew to expect that.

I guess if it's leased, it doesn't matter. If it's bought, I'd be making calls to get it replaced....I think they worked out the bugs now. Thinking about getting a second bolt. Leaf range is dropping, and I have to drive further now. Unfortunately, the msrp is still being pushed at the dealerships.

I just bought my 2021 Bolt Premier a week ago. The dealer charged the battery for me. It read 159 miles. I drove 70 mph all the way home. It was 110 miles. The temperature was 40 degrees Fahrenheit. I used no heat other than heated wheel and seat. I live in Wisconsin. I charged the car with L2. The range jumped up to 172 miles. The last four years, I have been driving a Chevrolet Spark EV. I run no heat in car or just to clear the windows. I use a 12v heated blanket across my lap, plus I dress warm. Most of my driving, is city driving. Next L2 charge, my range was 188. My last L2 charge, my range was was 208. My miles/kw is 4.6 . It helps, that temperature has been in 40's to low 50's degrees Fahrenheit. I hope this helps.

@bresina63 we finally got the battery replaced and are seeing similar numbers. I'm in the market for another 2021 bolt, any chance you'd share your purchase price? Curious to see what they are going for now. Did yours have the sw update or total replacement?

Just posted

It does. Some control systems that have quick rise times will overshoot their average during ramp up. I seen mine did 7kw, but then damps down. It's the power usage (steady state) at the given temp that's important.... at least to me.

@@stem_saving1644 Just to be clear it is pulling 20 to 22 at steady state. I have plots from the emporia energy monitor and there really isn't an overshoot on my system. When the system had more vibration that I expected I started tracking amp draw because I was worried about the health of the compressor. I still don't understand how to reconcile the data plate saying 16 amps max and it pulling 20-22. Sometimes it hard to ignore things when you're an engineer.

@mtbphil168 The current should be proportional to the temp. Give or take a few watts. But yeah, I agree with your last statement. 😀

@@stem_saving1644 which temp are you referring to? Outside temp or refrigerant temp. It does not seem proportional to outside temp from what I've seen. This is a noncommunicating compressor and it really seams to operate like a normal compressor but with a ramp up. It pretty much ramps up to a steady state of 18 to 22 amps. So if it's proportional it's only a few amps change

That seems odd. I double-checked mine, and when off, sure enough I'm drawing 0.56A. Not to happy about that finding. Maybe installing contactor in between will help. Still worth the install, in my opinion. Thanks for the info. Another project for me.

@@stem_saving1644 thanks for checking. I discovered that when trying to understand why my compressor was producing significant vibration in heat mode and sounds find in cooling mode. I cycled fan speeds, tried 2 ton mode, and tried to isolate the lines. However, the compressor itself vibrates enough that it reverberates down the 3/4" line during heat mode enough that you hear it in the house (especially when trying to sleep). Noise would be ok, but the vibration is tough to deal with. I was planning on buying a second unit for my upstairs, but I'm thinking twice now. Anyone experienced this?

Mine seems louder in winter as well. I found that tying the linesets to each rafter dampened the noise and vibration. I moved my outdoor unit away from my window just in case. I'm experimenting on ways to reduce the vibration. It's not perfect, but it's easy to install and cheap.

@@stem_saving1644 The amperage is due to the crankcase heater. This is necessary to keep the refrigerant in the correct state when it gets very cold outside to prolong the life of your compressor.

When it's 65f outside? After HP being off for days? Seems high, if that's the case, the pcb logic should turn this on when heat is called for to warm it up. Not keep it on continuously. Defeats the energy efficiency purpose.

Yup, it's those are the worst. Not rocket science....just need some patience.

@stem_saving1644 yeah what sucks is the code came back afterwards.

@justinkaufman495. Did you clear it? Might be gas cap as well.

@stem_saving1644 I cleared it, the gas cap looks good. I have a new fuel pressure sensor on the way. Turns out mine is snaped at the neck. Hopefully that fixes it.

Glad to help

I'm wondering if it's because people put plumbers tape around there? Lol. I have heard people do that. Unless it's causes threads to rust (which I can't see why) I don't see why? Mine has been running fine.

It's been great. The bill has been lower for both heating and cooling. I'm trying to get another video out for that.

@@stem_saving1644 if you dnt mind me asking about how much was the difference in the bill amount and could it be used better with a solar system and won’t use a lot of power

At least 15% for cooling energy savings and heating at least 40%

@@stem_saving1644 thx my friend

I have installed a heat pump since then. Getting off natural gas. I got about 2 months off the filter, also switched to rain water. Check out that video.

Oil charge will work on every car

I think you'll be happy with it.

Not sure what your asking? It's usually kept in one more or another.

I haven't tried the salts. I have multiple cars, so I've done the process more than once. Yes, sulfation occurs when a battery is left drained. That is true. It also occurs naturally over time. Sulfation builds up on the plates and increases the resistance. A desulfator removes this, at least in theory.

@@stem_saving1644 Hi: thanks for the reply. Yeah, I also have a bit of a collection of "Dead Soldiers", i.e. abused lead acid batteries fro aseries of vans ane motorbike. I haven't tried to revive them before: I was always a bit dubious about the whole process. But I'm going to try it now. I also don't think the Epson Salts is likely to work very well: and especially not in a sealed/low maintenance battery as all mine are. And even in a vented/open one, I think it's the wrong direction to go. As long as you have a reasonable amount of electrolyte in the battery, and it's within the desired density (concentration) range, then that's all you can really do. Because you don't want to to mess with the sulphates that are crystalised on the plates: you just want to gently dissolve them, but without damaging the lead underneath. I think the best method is to use high voltage pulses of current, and to limit the intensity and duration so as not to heat the battery too much. You're going to create some H2 & O2 at the plates at anything above around 2.3 V/cell (13.8 for 12V battery) but as you say, you just need to vent that, and top up as needed. That's trickier in a sealed cell: the comments I've seen say that few if anyone has had success in trying to replace water lost to outgassing. And none of the manufacturers say it's a good idea to try it: but of course, it's not in their best interests to make it easier to revive a dead battery....:-0 Maybe one can monitor how much it bubbles, and adjust how aggressively you can adjust you desulphonation by that. A sealed cell is under some pressure due to the valves, and it will only vent if you exceed the valve resistance. It's hard to find actual values for the set-point of the relief valves: I'll try asking Yuasa what they use on theirs. Battery University claims it's often 5psi/35 kPa both vented as well as "other" batteries ("other" = AGM??). And some special designs (Hawker) go up to 345kPa (50 psi) they say. And there's an EXCELLENT posting by a company called Abertax that gives details of their valves. As well as says what pressures theirs tend to work at (17 - 20 kPa). AND even BETTER, they give a nice graph showing the difference in water loss between a valve operating at low pressure of 3.0 kPa and theirs at 170 kPa. They say after 200 charging cycles, it results in +/- 13% MORE electrolyte loss in the lower pressure cell. And they continue to say that for a cell with an 8.0 kPa valve, that it is degassing for the last 10 hours of a 17 hour charge cycle. Whereas with a 20 kPa valve, it only degasses in the last hour. Which explains the reduced loss of electrolyte with a valve pressure > 17 - 20 kPa. If it's 20kPa, then that's equivalent to a head of water of 2.0m ( Pressure = density x gravity x water depth). To test this, you could attach a longer hose to the gas venting port (most have a way to attach a rubber tube to them to vent any H2 in a safe(r) spot). And then put that tube into a transparent tube of water (say a length of perspex tube). If the valve truly DOES open at 20Pa (3psi for our American friends), then as you stuck it deeper than 2.0m, then the bubbles should stop, because the valve has shut. I doubt the valve is set at much higher than that for standard vehicle batteries, because the case is only made of plastic, and too high a back pressure might split it. And for EXTRA marks..... Since the valve is a one-way valve, then the actual opening pressure of the valve also depends on the pressure that the battery was sealed at (let's say 1 Bar), and the AMBIENT pressure. Because I doubt these valves are pressure compensated. Therefore, at higher altitudes, the valve will open easier, due to less ambient pressure, so at 3,000m (about the highest anyone's going to drive a standard car), the ambient pressure is 90 kPa (down from 101 kPa at sea level). And THAT would suggest a VRLA valve might well NOT open before the case started to see too high a pressure. In which case, aircraft might have an issue with sealed VRLA batteries, especially if the fly high. As in, the lower pressure would stop the valve from opening, and the hydrogen would build up inside, until the plane descended to lower altitudes. I dunno if that's considered though, because I looked at the US military spec for airplane batteries that are used in jets (MIL-8565) and it doesn't say ANYTHING About the required valve pressure. It only says that at ROOM pressure, there cannot be any great release of hydrogen. And last... In theory one should be able to inject a bit of water into AGM's to make up the loss if you get a lot of gas evolution. Maybe can drill a hole and thread it to take an inspection bolt. Can add an o-ring. And that way you could masure the pressure as you charged/desulponated. Dang, even automate it with a digital pressure sensor with an Arduino logging it....:-0

Thanks

You'll need to research that. I can only tell you the one in the video works for me.