@@davidk21419 i installed a 20kw heat strip but havent had to use them yet you do have to install some if you feel it wont keep up but it hasnt been a issue with mine so far but figured better safe then sorry
Do you only install 1 unit for your 2500sf home? And if so how big it is,3/4 ton? Curious, im about to get some units and want to figure out what I need
Looking at this same unit. Problem I have is current system blows top to bottom downward into my floor ducting. Will have to flip the unit and build a stand to hold the coil on top of the blower. Prety common practice. Looks pretty straight forward with these units. I heard so many horror stories about shipping I might just make the 200 mike trek to the ingrams north of portland and get it myself.
Did you install a Mr. Cool? I have a a split system coming next week, and mine is a downflow ducted system also. I plan on flipping upside down, and manufacturing a support for A coil. Just wondering whether you did one. My current Trane is upside down.
@@MegaMarclar I plan on making a video of progress, nothing like that on CZcams. My local HVAC guy said 95%of his installs are up flow. Probably why none available from Mr cool.
@@stem_saving1644 At this time i have a 24K ductless heat pump since 2018 works good in winter am up north but it cant heat up the full house this is why i got the bigger heatpump for the bottom i shod receive this today i ordered it like maybe 7days ago www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S979LGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you share what filter you ended up using to replace the metal screen? Have this same unit and have come up empty in looking for a filter replacement. It doesn't seem to use a conventional size. Any help appreciated! Thanks!
You notices the same thing home depot lineset saves alot more money i had to do the same thing add a plem on the bottom cut down the top had to use the 50 ft line set however i did add a 20kw heater to mine but havent had to turn it on been down to 12 deg where im at
It looks like you are a year into it - how do you like it so far? Any problems? I'm sure you got better stuff to do, but a follow up video on this would be really helpful. thanks.
@@rj2764 around 2500 sq ft its the whole house unit that connects to central ducts. Its the 5 ton unit - I also have solar so costs are offset a lot. Yes the install i did myself total cost prob 5-6k - oil this year to fill the tank 250gallon at $5/gallon around $1400… i usually filled it 3-4 times a year - so yes it was worth it for me - my oil use drops to almost nothing (explained below) - my entire electric bill is never that high as just oil and it runs basically everything for me (heat, ev charging, fridges, stoves, laundry, etc) - but I do have solar as I mentioned. I have basically gone full electric except for my basement which still i use a small amount of oil to heat that space since its not connected to main part of houses duct system. Next stop is a mr cool or similar smaller unit (heat pump) for that area. Probably a project for this year or next and I can be done with Oil for good.
I am wanting this same unit. My issue is the return is on the bottom. I'll either have to convert my ductwork to horizontal plenum or dig out my current mechanical room to accommodate the return.
@@stem_saving1644 I wish I had room for that. I only have 10 inches to add a return on the bottom and I don't think that's enough. I'll figure it out one way or another.
You ever notice the posted cooling capacity on 5 ton (MDUO1860) isn't really 5 tons? They list it as 54000 BTU. I've got a large area and an existing 5 ton 16 seer...wondering if I can get away with what appears to really be a 4.5 ton, but labeled 5.
Interesting point. I bet if you precooled or pre pre-heated before a temp event occurred you could get away with it. Also upgrading insulation , air sealing, and newer windows would help. I've been happy with mine.
Got those units and they work well - moving the heat exchanger up a hill to the side of the house was a bear (380 lbs!) Like the poster, I too wasn't thrilled that it's air handler intake is the base (but makes sense for side mounting.) So I had to build an intake base for the vertical mounting I used - very simple compared to the duct system I had to build to interface to my existing ducts. Note: the air handler has a dip switch that ONLY controls the fan speed (the other converts from 5 ton to four ton.) They claim he unit is good to -5F with no required aux heat. I had a few days of +5F and it didn't use aux heat at all. So that claim looks fairly accurate. Be VERY careful if you install the aux heat system that you use the rated heavy cable that can handle that 15,000 watts (and surge) - that is important. If not knowledgeable this really needs a professional to be safe. Do install a surge protector on at least the outside unit - those digital electronics can be fried otherwise by common surges. I use a surge protector on each unit AND a whole house unit. Cheap compared to even a single service call if a circuit board dies. While easy to install surge protectors - again, if not knowledgeable, get a professional to wire those when they wire the system.
I am planning an install for a Mr Cool 4-5 ton Universal unit and I am curious how much condensation are you getting from the outdoor unit? I am planning on moving the location of the outside compressor unit to an upstairs balcony but I am concerned the condensation might be too great to control and divert off that deck surface? Thanks for any help.
@@stem_saving1644 Thanks for the reply Let me ask another question My location is out side of a bedroom on this upstairs deck.... All i have ever heard is how quiet the universals are... Do u think it will be too loud outside of a bedroom?
Depends on how far away it is. In the summer it's about 65dB. In the winter it's louder when it ramps up and down. Mine is about 6 feet away from my window. If your not a light sleeper, it should be OK
TXV is not for reversing the flow, it is for regulating the pressure before expansion... Thermal Expansion Valve. Somewhere else inside there is a reversing valve for switching between cooling and heating modes. I ordered the 2-to-3 Ton unit earlier this week and it arrives today. My AC compressor is trashed and my TXV is plugged up. I have been wanting to move to a heat pump system for a while. This should be better for both heating and cooling as my AC was only a 13 SEER unit... which I was really suprised to learn sense I paid extra money when this house was built 8 years ago for a high efficiency system; I think they went high efficiency on the gas furnace which is actually a waste. Anyhow, the old AC was 3 Ton and it was zoned, which led the to failure. I didn't get the air handler, just the evaporator coil, and I am pairing up with my existing gas furnace and air handler. I am going to use it for a few months and see how I like it. If it ends up being a wise investment, I am going to get a second 2-to-3 ton unit and the appropriate air handle and I will get rid of my zoning board, dampers, and separate the ducting so that zoning is just handle by having two separate systems. This is the 3rd time in my adult life that I have been without proper cooling for at least a week during the hottest part of the summer due to a failed unit. I replaced my system at the old house... and then the next year the line set was struck by lightning... and now this. I am not dealing with it anymore. Two systems with fewer single points of failure. If a system is down, at least the other one is working. When I have them redundant, I will put them into 2 Ton mode and see how things go. I hadn't really considered switching between modes, so that will be a great option if more heating is required. I would have preferred to get the 4-to-5 unit if they would have offered multiple line sets be run out of it like they do for some of their zoned mini-split systems. But, that would have been a single point of failure even if I had two evaporator coils.... so maybe this is better. I am just getting ready to pour my concrete pad and was watching your other video just as a sanity check. I was a bit concerned about the dept of the pad and the possibility of enough wind wanting to apply torque at the base, but I have the smaller unit and my depth of the pad is 24" like you have done for the taller unit. I opted to make the pad 6" thick, as well, to get it a tad higher up in case of snow.
Thanks for the note. Yes I misspoke on the txv. It's not a txv. Sounds like you have had quite an experience with hvac. Mine lasted 20 years (knock on wood), but the coil stated leaking.... I had been planning on removing gas for a while since I have all solar and going heat pump. So it was perfect timing. It's been great so far. Just a little louder in winter due to compressor throttling up and down. I'd make sure you get nylog blue to seal all the connections. I was honestly paranoid about that. I'd really like to see a video of what you have. Let me know how it goes.
@@stem_saving1644 I just poured my pad this morning. I didn't do any video, but I grabbed some pictures as I just used a pallet to make the form. They're supposed to be delivering my system any moment.
@@stem_saving1644 I got my system installed. It isn't really "done" but it is functional. There were some parts that were far more challenging than expected... some my own doing. Getting this to work with an existing furnace/air handler was a bit of a challenge. While it lined up appropriately, the inside of the MrCool evap coil was smaller than the old system. I had to bend the tabs down and put some angle brackets in there with screws. Also, the line set was so tough to get right... first getting the last bit screwed in on the condenser was a pain but also getting the bends right. I think in the future, I would get the outside oil return bend done first and then slide the line set inside... but that would work because I was going into an entirely unfinshed basement. I also had to drill holes through brick which was an utter pain. The other pain is the wiring. I have a zoning board (still in place for now) and the air handler blower is a joke from Bryant because it needs a special communication board that was actually never installed (so it never worked properly). I have it working right now by having the MrCool wired directly into my downstairs thermostat and my upstairs thermostat wired into my zoning board basically only controlling the fan (the upstairs damper is pulled wide open because it failed).
@dus10dnd I think once you get it all squared away, you'll like it. The larger diameter pipe was a little harder to form, but a little elbow grease and it's not so bad. The savings will be the best part!
@@stem_saving1644 I am certainly happy with the system and the savings. My biggest fear with anything like the line set is both that is requires a certain strength but restraint enough to not damage it... I always have a hard time with that sort of thing. :) The system is extremely quiet and it is working fantastically. I am looking forward to the this Fall when I buy a second one and get rid of the dampers and zoning board.
Dude I just bought 2 4to5 ton for my house. It’s massive! I’m struggling with the size. I don’t have much head room. Also line set is so hard to bend. 3/4” through brick walls
I installed the same type of system in our Off-Grid home. Did you happen to find a programmable thermostat that works with it? Because our units are in the attic qe can't use the IR option they offer leaving us stuck with the junk thermostat it came with.
Thanks for the nicely done video. I just installed this 4/5 ton unit. At least mine came undamaged. Both the condenser and air handler were on one skid wrapped together. It is so quiet. Just love it. It is in the middle of summer, so I just ran a quick test of the heat mode on one cool morning to make sure the installation is correct. I have one question I am still waiting for the answer from MrCool support. What is the Defrost signal used for? The air handler control board in mine has a D (defrost) connection, but the condenser control board does not have the D signal. There is a W1 signal. The air handler manual that came with the system shows a wiring diagram to connect the D signal of the condenser to the D signal of the air handler. Well I don’t have the D signal in the condenser. Can you tell me how you connect the D signal in your system? By the way, I did not install the optional heat strip. I will use my existing gas boiler as backup. I gathered that the Defrost signal probably is used to turn on the heat strip during the defrost cycle. That signal must be sent from the Condenser to turn on the heat strip inside the air handler. Since I don’t have the heat strip installed, it probably can be used to turn on my gas boiler. However, my condenser unit does not have the D output, it has the W1 signal. I am wondering if the W1 signal is on during the defrost cycle. If so, I can use that to turn on my gas boiler. Thanks in advance.
I don't have heat strips either. I also don't have a D signal. Defrost mode is when the reversing valve is turned to cooling mode for a short time to heat the outdoor coils. Is this the possibly the B your referring to? When B is active, it's in heating mode. Hope that helps.
Thanks for you reply. It is the D signal I referred to. In the manual, it specifically describes it as the defrosting signal. I screen shot the frames of your video that show the control signal terminal block of both the air handler and condenser. Sure enough, your system does not have the D signal. My air handler does not have the Y signal, it has the D signal in its place. The Y signal should just go directly to the condenser anyway. My condenser has the W1 signal instead of the D signal described in the version of manual that came with the system. I downloaded the latest version of both of the air handler and condenser manual online. They are different from mine. Apparently they have different versions of the hardware as well. I use a Ecobee 3 Lite thermostat. I have to program O/B to energize the B terminal in heat mode for MrCool. It seems backward for MrCool to do that. If the reversing valve control fails, it would be better to fail to the default heat mode without being energize. It is more important to have heat, especially in the northeast where I live. So, I will just tie W1 in the thermostats, air handler and condenser together. I now have a dual fuel system. The gas boiler becomes my backup system.
@@norberteng9496 I would look at the schematics to be sure. W1, for me, is just a control to turn on the heat strips. Not sure I can add much to the conversation without seeing a wiring diagram. I'd just be conjectureing at this point.
Thanks. Since I am using my existing gas boiler for aux heating. I am using W1 to turn on the boiler. On page 30 of the latest MDUO18* condenser manual, version date 19-25-21, on the Mrcool website, it mentions “when the outdoor unit defrosts, D will send an operation signal to the electric heater to avoid cold winds”. Our version of hardware does not have the D signal. So, i suspect a 24V signal is sent on the W1 to turn on the aux heat instead. MrCool support seems nonexistent. I sent messages via their website support email. Never got a reply.
Have u had problems with the with it freezing up and my nest has been off by 1 degree seems to run a long time . I have had it only 1 month now and already seems to be a problem unit. I have the same unit.
Freezing up in winter or summer ? Coils will freeze up when cold in the winter, but then it goes through a defrost mode. If it's summer, then it's usually a refrigerant leak if the lineset isn't tight enough. Mine has worked fine over the winter.
@@stem_saving1644 yes they r aware of the situation they have three other customers that have the same problem with theirs and I have the same system you have the 5 to 5 ton unit.
I have the same system and in less than a year the indoor coil roted rusted out and started leaking Freon. Ingram sent the same coil and it's starting to rust bad again. Now my problem is the liquid line gets cold the air coming into the house goes up and starts getting hot. A quick fix is to turn off the unit and turning it back on. The compressor makes a noise that goes away in 30 seconds and the liquid line is back to normal and I start getting 60° through the vents. Anyone know what s going on with this problem I'm having?
The outdoor unit is pretty heavy. Need 2 people and a dolly. Mines going to be ground mourned vs brackets It's 300lbs, so take that into consideration.
If there isn’t anything else on the air handler circuit…get a 240 breaker, white becomes red(with tape), black stays black, green stays green. Now you have 240 using existing wiring.
The issue is access to both legs on the load panel. It's all filled up. I might have to run another line from a sub panel. But, yes the ideal is solid.
@@stem_saving1644 if you dnt mind me asking about how much was the difference in the bill amount and could it be used better with a solar system and won’t use a lot of power
I bought a HVAC outside package (air conditioning an a gas furnace) from Ingram's and when i received it it was all banged up ( dented) and they gave me a bunch of trouble about returning it and the manager said he was busy having his house built. They were kind of rude to me
Sorry to hear that. I had good luck with them. Returns weren't a problem. You can try Amazon. Always buy with credit card, that way you can dispute the charges if a merchant isn't helping.
I think that would void the warranty. Most basement floors are damp which would introduce moisture and rust. Floor isn't level by the drain, so sealing would be tough. Return air plenum would need to be reduced which could reduce air flow and cause coil to freeze up. Lots of variables to consider. Stand was easier.
@@stem_saving1644 I say that all the time at my place. Like WTF would someone run the copper for the hot water heater halfway in and halfway out of the studs so that there has to be two 1 inch lines about 6 inches apart stretching four feet up the wall?
I just unpacked it and its damaged the top is all banded in i purchased it from the same company you did i email the company and the told me just install it and use it i emailed back i made a video i can not close the front cover on the outside unit it pops out because its banded i will see what will happen ?
@@stem_saving1644 @STEM_SAVING She told me this,> Is the unit installed? If so, can your installer come out to fix that? Thank you, only the outside unit is damage the inside unit is ok do you have to ship both units back or just the damaged one i just emailed her again will see what will happen!
So, baerd off your single data point, you're extrapolating to the entire population? I have had mine for 3 years with no issues and have been happy with it. Maybe yours was installed incorrectly? I hate to extrapolate on one data point. Can you cite failure rates ?
@@stem_saving1644 My Ac Technician said he's had to replace a bunch of these unit that are made in china. Also the warranty department is terrible. Go look at Yelp reviews with one star out of 5. Better Business Bureau is loaded with complaints.
@@stem_saving1644 Tech laughed when he saw the unit he was going to install. He's a friend of mine. He told me I should have asked him before buying this brand. First six months everything was fine then the air handler got a major leak. Then after that they actually sent another coil that was defective. My friend said these are China made junk. Then 6 months later the compressor was making a loud noise and eventually crapped out. Warranty department is the worst by the way
@@MegaMarclar yes, i said it CIRCULATES air, meaning that the indoor unit blows the interior air around the house/room, which indeed is not VENTILATION, as in replacing the indoor air with outdoor air
You are putting a 4-5 ton system on a 3 ton duct system without any modifications? Thats really fucking stupid. Good luck with moisture, mold and bacteria problems in your house!
That's your opinion. It pulls the correct cfm and the duct system was prevuyosky sized to a 100,0000 btu furnace. Worked fine for 22 years and works fine now.
@@stem_saving1644 Not opinion. Its a fact! Ive been doing hvac for 25 years. your furnace, did it have a 3 ton blower or a 4 ton blower? The furnace blower had a PSC motor and the new air handler has an ECM A duct system that is not properly sized to the equipment is going to have problems. When the compressor goes out in two years, have fun.
It's interesting you know the facts about my system, having never seen it. FyI, it had a 4ton blower. But never the less, using rule of thumb for 25 years works, until it doesn't. The science should drive the tonnage, not rule of thumb. I did a manual J and the calculations come out to right around 4t of heating. We'll see how well it performs over the years.
Following for part 2, Hoping to get one of those for my house soon.
I just installed that same unit works great very quiet and so far keeps my 2500sf house hot in the winter and cold in the summer
Do you have to buy heat strip?
Do I have to install a heat strip or is something install in the unit already?
@@davidk21419 i installed a 20kw heat strip but havent had to use them yet you do have to install some if you feel it wont keep up but it hasnt been a issue with mine so far but figured better safe then sorry
Do you only install 1 unit for your 2500sf home? And if so how big it is,3/4 ton? Curious, im about to get some units and want to figure out what I need
@@aatguzman8920 one unit and it is thr 4/5ton unit i have it in 5 ton mode
Looking at this same unit. Problem I have is current system blows top to bottom downward into my floor ducting. Will have to flip the unit and build a stand to hold the coil on top of the blower. Prety common practice. Looks pretty straight forward with these units. I heard so many horror stories about shipping I might just make the 200 mike trek to the ingrams north of portland and get it myself.
You could. I use credit card, that way I'm not liable. I had them shrink wrap both units together on the same pallet and ship with XPO.
Did you install a Mr. Cool? I have a a split system coming next week, and mine is a downflow ducted system also. I plan on flipping upside down, and manufacturing a support for A coil. Just wondering whether you did one. My current Trane is upside down.
@@hockey98550 I have not done mine yet. But it is the same principle. Just have to flop the blower box assy, and install a bracket to hold the coil
@@MegaMarclar I plan on making a video of progress, nothing like that on CZcams. My local HVAC guy said 95%of his installs are up flow. Probably why none available from Mr cool.
$3k that's not bad at all. I would like to upgrade my 11 year old air condition system to this. Great vid!
As soon as it cools off, I'll have more content.
Its seems to be closer to $4500 with lines as of this fine afternoon of Feb 2024
@@geraldhenrickson7472$4375 to be exact
I have same i currently have it in garage will install soon am doing the duct work flex pipe and luxury round vents :)
Let me know how it goes. Be interested to see your results if you get yours in first. I have to get my airhandler done before I start.
@@stem_saving1644 At this time i have a 24K ductless heat pump since 2018 works good in winter am up north but it cant heat up the full house this is why i got the bigger heatpump for the bottom i shod receive this today i ordered it like maybe 7days ago
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S979LGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you share what filter you ended up using to replace the metal screen? Have this same unit and have come up empty in looking for a filter replacement. It doesn't seem to use a conventional size. Any help appreciated! Thanks!
I used amzn.to/3U8dSIT Its a tight fit, but works for me, plus its washable. They have a couple sizes to choose from 20x23 is what I have
You notices the same thing home depot lineset saves alot more money i had to do the same thing add a plem on the bottom cut down the top had to use the 50 ft line set however i did add a 20kw heater to mine but havent had to turn it on been down to 12 deg where im at
thanks for the feedback. Good to know of your success. I hope I will have the same.
It looks like you are a year into it - how do you like it so far? Any problems? I'm sure you got better stuff to do, but a follow up video on this would be really helpful. thanks.
I love it, no major dislikes. Yes trying to finish the follow up vids. It just takes a lot of time to make them. Next one should be out shortly.
Yeah man all electric... I did the same no more OIL usage. Really glad I went this way too.
how many sqft what system and was it cheaper than oil?
@@rj2764 around 2500 sq ft its the whole house unit that connects to central ducts. Its the 5 ton unit - I also have solar so costs are offset a lot. Yes the install i did myself total cost prob 5-6k - oil this year to fill the tank 250gallon at $5/gallon around $1400… i usually filled it 3-4 times a year - so yes it was worth it for me - my oil use drops to almost nothing (explained below) - my entire electric bill is never that high as just oil and it runs basically everything for me (heat, ev charging, fridges, stoves, laundry, etc) - but I do have solar as I mentioned. I have basically gone full electric except for my basement which still i use a small amount of oil to heat that space since its not connected to main part of houses duct system. Next stop is a mr cool or similar smaller unit (heat pump) for that area. Probably a project for this year or next and I can be done with Oil for good.
@ VR Vitaly That's awesome to hear that people are looking at the long game. I'm doing the same here. All electric with solar, heat pump and two EVs
I was hoping for a video of the install. Did you not make one?
In the process of making one. Just have a lot of things going on right now.
I am wanting this same unit. My issue is the return is on the bottom. I'll either have to convert my ductwork to horizontal plenum or dig out my current mechanical room to accommodate the return.
I'm building a stand so it draws air in from the bottom.
@@stem_saving1644 I wish I had room for that. I only have 10 inches to add a return on the bottom and I don't think that's enough. I'll figure it out one way or another.
I have to cut on the plenum to get it to fit and do some duct work.
You ever notice the posted cooling capacity on 5 ton (MDUO1860) isn't really 5 tons? They list it as 54000 BTU. I've got a large area and an existing 5 ton 16 seer...wondering if I can get away with what appears to really be a 4.5 ton, but labeled 5.
Interesting point. I bet if you precooled or pre pre-heated before a temp event occurred you could get away with it. Also upgrading insulation , air sealing, and newer windows would help.
I've been happy with mine.
Got those units and they work well - moving the heat exchanger up a hill to the side of the house was a bear (380 lbs!) Like the poster, I too wasn't thrilled that it's air handler intake is the base (but makes sense for side mounting.) So I had to build an intake base for the vertical mounting I used - very simple compared to the duct system I had to build to interface to my existing ducts. Note: the air handler has a dip switch that ONLY controls the fan speed (the other converts from 5 ton to four ton.) They claim he unit is good to -5F with no required aux heat. I had a few days of +5F and it didn't use aux heat at all. So that claim looks fairly accurate. Be VERY careful if you install the aux heat system that you use the rated heavy cable that can handle that 15,000 watts (and surge) - that is important. If not knowledgeable this really needs a professional to be safe. Do install a surge protector on at least the outside unit - those digital electronics can be fried otherwise by common surges. I use a surge protector on each unit AND a whole house unit. Cheap compared to even a single service call if a circuit board dies. While easy to install surge protectors - again, if not knowledgeable, get a professional to wire those when they wire the system.
Yes agree 100% with you. The 4ton is a bear to move. I also bought some surge protection as well. Just didn't have it for the video.
I am planning an install for a Mr Cool 4-5 ton Universal unit and I am curious how much condensation are you getting from the outdoor unit? I am planning on moving the location of the outside compressor unit to an upstairs balcony but I am concerned the condensation might be too great to control and divert off that deck surface? Thanks for any help.
There is a drain plug where you can connect to for a condensate line.
@@stem_saving1644 Thanks for the reply Let me ask another question My location is out side of a bedroom on this upstairs deck.... All i have ever heard is how quiet the universals are... Do u think it will be too loud outside of a bedroom?
Depends on how far away it is. In the summer it's about 65dB. In the winter it's louder when it ramps up and down. Mine is about 6 feet away from my window. If your not a light sleeper, it should be OK
TXV is not for reversing the flow, it is for regulating the pressure before expansion... Thermal Expansion Valve. Somewhere else inside there is a reversing valve for switching between cooling and heating modes.
I ordered the 2-to-3 Ton unit earlier this week and it arrives today. My AC compressor is trashed and my TXV is plugged up. I have been wanting to move to a heat pump system for a while. This should be better for both heating and cooling as my AC was only a 13 SEER unit... which I was really suprised to learn sense I paid extra money when this house was built 8 years ago for a high efficiency system; I think they went high efficiency on the gas furnace which is actually a waste. Anyhow, the old AC was 3 Ton and it was zoned, which led the to failure. I didn't get the air handler, just the evaporator coil, and I am pairing up with my existing gas furnace and air handler. I am going to use it for a few months and see how I like it. If it ends up being a wise investment, I am going to get a second 2-to-3 ton unit and the appropriate air handle and I will get rid of my zoning board, dampers, and separate the ducting so that zoning is just handle by having two separate systems. This is the 3rd time in my adult life that I have been without proper cooling for at least a week during the hottest part of the summer due to a failed unit. I replaced my system at the old house... and then the next year the line set was struck by lightning... and now this. I am not dealing with it anymore. Two systems with fewer single points of failure. If a system is down, at least the other one is working. When I have them redundant, I will put them into 2 Ton mode and see how things go. I hadn't really considered switching between modes, so that will be a great option if more heating is required.
I would have preferred to get the 4-to-5 unit if they would have offered multiple line sets be run out of it like they do for some of their zoned mini-split systems. But, that would have been a single point of failure even if I had two evaporator coils.... so maybe this is better.
I am just getting ready to pour my concrete pad and was watching your other video just as a sanity check. I was a bit concerned about the dept of the pad and the possibility of enough wind wanting to apply torque at the base, but I have the smaller unit and my depth of the pad is 24" like you have done for the taller unit. I opted to make the pad 6" thick, as well, to get it a tad higher up in case of snow.
Thanks for the note. Yes I misspoke on the txv. It's not a txv.
Sounds like you have had quite an experience with hvac. Mine lasted 20 years (knock on wood), but the coil stated leaking....
I had been planning on removing gas for a while since I have all solar and going heat pump. So it was perfect timing.
It's been great so far. Just a little louder in winter due to compressor throttling up and down.
I'd make sure you get nylog blue to seal all the connections. I was honestly paranoid about that.
I'd really like to see a video of what you have. Let me know how it goes.
@@stem_saving1644 I just poured my pad this morning. I didn't do any video, but I grabbed some pictures as I just used a pallet to make the form. They're supposed to be delivering my system any moment.
@@stem_saving1644 I got my system installed. It isn't really "done" but it is functional. There were some parts that were far more challenging than expected... some my own doing. Getting this to work with an existing furnace/air handler was a bit of a challenge. While it lined up appropriately, the inside of the MrCool evap coil was smaller than the old system. I had to bend the tabs down and put some angle brackets in there with screws. Also, the line set was so tough to get right... first getting the last bit screwed in on the condenser was a pain but also getting the bends right. I think in the future, I would get the outside oil return bend done first and then slide the line set inside... but that would work because I was going into an entirely unfinshed basement. I also had to drill holes through brick which was an utter pain. The other pain is the wiring. I have a zoning board (still in place for now) and the air handler blower is a joke from Bryant because it needs a special communication board that was actually never installed (so it never worked properly).
I have it working right now by having the MrCool wired directly into my downstairs thermostat and my upstairs thermostat wired into my zoning board basically only controlling the fan (the upstairs damper is pulled wide open because it failed).
@dus10dnd I think once you get it all squared away, you'll like it. The larger diameter pipe was a little harder to form, but a little elbow grease and it's not so bad.
The savings will be the best part!
@@stem_saving1644 I am certainly happy with the system and the savings. My biggest fear with anything like the line set is both that is requires a certain strength but restraint enough to not damage it... I always have a hard time with that sort of thing. :) The system is extremely quiet and it is working fantastically. I am looking forward to the this Fall when I buy a second one and get rid of the dampers and zoning board.
Dude I just bought 2 4to5 ton for my house. It’s massive! I’m struggling with the size. I don’t have much head room. Also line set is so hard to bend. 3/4” through brick walls
If your bending 90 angles get a pipe bender, link in description. Otherwise, take your time bending it.
I installed the same type of system in our Off-Grid home. Did you happen to find a programmable thermostat that works with it? Because our units are in the attic qe can't use the IR option they offer leaving us stuck with the junk thermostat it came with.
I used a lux9000 had it for 15 years....works great.
@@stem_saving1644 and it works with the MrCool ducted splits?
It's working with mine just fine. . It's a 4 wire. Really simple
@@stem_saving1644 thanks, I'll check it out
@@Off-Grid only works with universal air handler or normal 24v units. No mini splits.
Thanks for the nicely done video. I just installed this 4/5 ton unit. At least mine came undamaged. Both the condenser and air handler were on one skid wrapped together. It is so quiet. Just love it. It is in the middle of summer, so I just ran a quick test of the heat mode on one cool morning to make sure the installation is correct.
I have one question I am still waiting for the answer from MrCool support. What is the Defrost signal used for? The air handler control board in mine has a D (defrost) connection, but the condenser control board does not have the D signal. There is a W1 signal. The air handler manual that came with the system shows a wiring diagram to connect the D signal of the condenser to the D signal of the air handler. Well I don’t have the D signal in the condenser.
Can you tell me how you connect the D signal in your system? By the way, I did not install the optional heat strip. I will use my existing gas boiler as backup.
I gathered that the Defrost signal probably is used to turn on the heat strip during the defrost cycle. That signal must be sent from the Condenser to turn on the heat strip inside the air handler. Since I don’t have the heat strip installed, it probably can be used to turn on my gas boiler. However, my condenser unit does not have the D output, it has the W1 signal. I am wondering if the W1 signal is on during the defrost cycle. If so, I can use that to turn on my gas boiler.
Thanks in advance.
I don't have heat strips either. I also don't have a D signal. Defrost mode is when the reversing valve is turned to cooling mode for a short time to heat the outdoor coils. Is this the possibly the B your referring to? When B is active, it's in heating mode. Hope that helps.
Thanks for you reply. It is the D signal I referred to. In the manual, it specifically describes it as the defrosting signal. I screen shot the frames of your video that show the control signal terminal block of both the air handler and condenser. Sure enough, your system does not have the D signal.
My air handler does not have the Y signal, it has the D signal in its place. The Y signal should just go directly to the condenser anyway.
My condenser has the W1 signal instead of the D signal described in the version of manual that came with the system. I downloaded the latest version of both of the air handler and condenser manual online. They are different from mine. Apparently they have different versions of the hardware as well.
I use a Ecobee 3 Lite thermostat. I have to program O/B to energize the B terminal in heat mode for MrCool. It seems backward for MrCool to do that. If the reversing valve control fails, it would be better to fail to the default heat mode without being energize. It is more important to have heat, especially in the northeast where I live.
So, I will just tie W1 in the thermostats, air handler and condenser together.
I now have a dual fuel system. The gas boiler becomes my backup system.
@@norberteng9496 I would look at the schematics to be sure. W1, for me, is just a control to turn on the heat strips.
Not sure I can add much to the conversation without seeing a wiring diagram. I'd just be conjectureing at this point.
Thanks. Since I am using my existing gas boiler for aux heating. I am using W1 to turn on the boiler.
On page 30 of the latest MDUO18* condenser manual, version date 19-25-21, on the Mrcool website, it mentions “when the outdoor unit defrosts, D will send an operation signal to the electric heater to avoid cold winds”.
Our version of hardware does not have the D signal. So, i suspect a 24V signal is sent on the W1 to turn on the aux heat instead.
MrCool support seems nonexistent. I sent messages via their website support email. Never got a reply.
I can't see this in the manual. Are you located in the US? Wondering if there is another variation of the Mr. Cool universal?
Of course it put out well cause it’s flex made by Gree and MR cool just smack their logo on top of it since they got better marketing in US.
Have u had problems with the with it freezing up and my nest has been off by 1 degree seems to run a long time . I have had it only 1 month now and already seems to be a problem unit. I have the same unit.
Freezing up in winter or summer ? Coils will freeze up when cold in the winter, but then it goes through a defrost mode. If it's summer, then it's usually a refrigerant leak if the lineset isn't tight enough. Mine has worked fine over the winter.
@@stem_saving1644 yesterday it's 89 degrees here in Florida
Not sure what model you have? Check things like airflow, dirty filter... etc. If that's not it Call hvac guy to check refrigerant
@@stem_saving1644 yes they r aware of the situation they have three other customers that have the same problem with theirs and I have the same system you have the 5 to 5 ton unit.
I have the same system and in less than a year the indoor coil roted rusted out and started leaking Freon. Ingram sent the same coil and it's starting to rust bad again. Now my problem is the liquid line gets cold the air coming into the house goes up and starts getting hot. A quick fix is to turn off the unit and turning it back on. The compressor makes a noise that goes away in 30 seconds and the liquid line is back to normal and I start getting 60° through the vents. Anyone know what s going on with this problem I'm having?
Never had that issue, hopefully they are reconciling it. Sorry for your headaches.
@@stem_saving1644 yeah these units are China made crap
Was it hard to move the outside unit around?
The outdoor unit is pretty heavy. Need 2 people and a dolly. Mines going to be ground mourned vs brackets It's 300lbs, so take that into consideration.
It is heavy. We ha to use lifting straps to move it.
What is that place you bought it?
Ingrams water and air. Amazon has them now, cheaper with lineset. Link in description.
If there isn’t anything else on the air handler circuit…get a 240 breaker, white becomes red(with tape), black stays black, green stays green. Now you have 240 using existing wiring.
The issue is access to both legs on the load panel. It's all filled up. I might have to run another line from a sub panel. But, yes the ideal is solid.
@@stem_saving1644 Mini/tandem/double breaker. Condense your 120 loads. Looking at the 2/3ton myself.
How do you switch it from 4 to 5 ton?
There are miniture slide switches
Thank you.
How has the unit been 2 years in and what was the difference in your bill from a old unit thx
It's been great. The bill has been lower for both heating and cooling. I'm trying to get another video out for that.
@@stem_saving1644 if you dnt mind me asking about how much was the difference in the bill amount and could it be used better with a solar system and won’t use a lot of power
At least 15% for cooling energy savings and heating at least 40%
@@stem_saving1644 thx my friend
Where is the heat strip?
I didn't need it. Since my temps don't drop below the 100 capacity rating.
I bought a HVAC outside package (air conditioning an a gas furnace) from Ingram's and when i received it it was all banged up ( dented) and they gave me a bunch of trouble about returning it and the manager said he was busy having his house built. They were kind of rude to me
Sorry to hear that. I had good luck with them. Returns weren't a problem. You can try Amazon. Always buy with credit card, that way you can dispute the charges if a merchant isn't helping.
Why google doesmt let me loom at Us prices for.mr cool products online shops that sell mr cool producta ?
Amazon currently seems to have best deals. Check link in description
TXV is a pressure control not a direction control. Other tech inaccuracies but it doesn't mater
Misspoke, its the direction control valve or what ever you want to call it.
You could of made the return air on the side by cutting the whole and sealing the bottom.
I think that would void the warranty. Most basement floors are damp which would introduce moisture and rust. Floor isn't level by the drain, so sealing would be tough. Return air plenum would need to be reduced which could reduce air flow and cause coil to freeze up. Lots of variables to consider. Stand was easier.
Why the heck is the natrual gas in copper?
Can't say, didn't build the house.
@@stem_saving1644 I say that all the time at my place. Like WTF would someone run the copper for the hot water heater halfway in and halfway out of the studs so that there has to be two 1 inch lines about 6 inches apart stretching four feet up the wall?
I just unpacked it and its damaged the top is all banded in i purchased it from the same company you did i email the company and the told me just install it and use it i emailed back i made a video i can not close the front cover on the outside unit it pops out because its banded i will see what will happen ?
I'd return it. You don't know what internal damage it has. Ask them to ship with xpo and to shrink wrap both on same pallet.
@@stem_saving1644 @STEM_SAVING She told me this,> Is the unit installed? If so, can your installer come out to fix that?
Thank you, only the outside unit is damage the inside unit is ok do you have to ship both units back or just the damaged one i just emailed her again will see what will happen!
Mine came with some minor damage.
Shipper is important. 2nd one came almost unblemished.
All handlers sit on a box none of the, have side air intake, only furnaces got side returns.
Sure would make sense to have more options on hvac equipment. That's one thing I didn't like about the unit I installed.
This Mrcool brand is worst you could ever buy. Mine broke down several times in less than a year. Then i replaced it with a Carrier. Learned my lesson
So, baerd off your single data point, you're extrapolating to the entire population?
I have had mine for 3 years with no issues and have been happy with it.
Maybe yours was installed incorrectly?
I hate to extrapolate on one data point.
Can you cite failure rates ?
@@stem_saving1644 My Ac Technician said he's had to replace a bunch of these unit that are made in china. Also the warranty department is terrible. Go look at Yelp reviews with one star out of 5. Better Business Bureau is loaded with complaints.
Who put your unit in, and what failed? I agree that the service depth is hard to reach when you have questions.
@@stem_saving1644 Tech laughed when he saw the unit he was going to install. He's a friend of mine. He told me I should have asked him before buying this brand. First six months everything was fine then the air handler got a major leak. Then after that they actually sent another coil that was defective. My friend said these are China made junk. Then 6 months later the compressor was making a loud noise and eventually crapped out. Warranty department is the worst by the way
I heard this as well. When things go wrong, information is scarce, and other companies are hesitant to work on it.
4k in 2022
doesnt do ventillation, so its a HAC :)
Sure it does. Vents the air through the heat exchanger to charge its temp.... maybe it should just be called HCV heating cooling ventilation :)
It circulates air, doesnt really ventilate it. Ventilation is replacing air with outside air
@@zipu I don't recall ever seeing a house unit that has thr option to bring in outside air..
@@MegaMarclar yes, i said it CIRCULATES air, meaning that the indoor unit blows the interior air around the house/room, which indeed is not VENTILATION, as in replacing the indoor air with outdoor air
In my experience, you wont get an hvac guy out for under $500.
I have had a couple recharges of freon, for my old system for about 300. That's what's nice about this system, it's all diy, no hvac tech required!
Over $4000 now.🤦♂️
Prices really spiked. It's still cheaper than a hvac tech to install.
Txv valve to reverse the flow of refrigerant!Typical diy er
Sorry misspoke, it's the bi directional or reversing valve. Nothing wrong with diy if it saves you money
You are putting a 4-5 ton system on a 3 ton duct system without any modifications? Thats really fucking stupid. Good luck with moisture, mold and bacteria problems in your house!
That's your opinion. It pulls the correct cfm and the duct system was prevuyosky sized to a 100,0000 btu furnace. Worked fine for 22 years and works fine now.
@@stem_saving1644 Not opinion. Its a fact! Ive been doing hvac for 25 years. your furnace, did it have a 3 ton blower or a 4 ton blower? The furnace blower had a PSC motor and the new air handler has an ECM A duct system that is not properly sized to the equipment is going to have problems. When the compressor goes out in two years, have fun.
It's interesting you know the facts about my system, having never seen it. FyI, it had a 4ton blower. But never the less, using rule of thumb for 25 years works, until it doesn't. The science should drive the tonnage, not rule of thumb. I did a manual J and the calculations come out to right around 4t of heating. We'll see how well it performs over the years.