How To Install Your Own Central Air Ducted System | Mr Cool
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- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
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Mr Cool Ducted Systems (Hyper Heat) - mrcool.com/central-ducted/
Sections
0:00 System Overview
1:30 Tools Needed
2:30 Mr Cool Hyper Heat Specs
5:00 Condenser Concrete Pad
6:00 Plan For Ductwork
8:03 Flow Right 21" Stand and Plenum
10:25 Positioning The Mr Cool Unit On The Stand
13:04 Cold Air Return Ductwork Fabrication
17:45 Bringing Old Ducts Into The Mr Cool Ducted System
30:34 Finished Ducted Work Results
32:00 Wiring A 50 Amp Circuit For Outdoor Mr Cool Condenser
41:45 Wiring A 15 Amp Circuit For Infoor Mr Cool Air Handler
44:30 Installing a 3/4" PVC Evaporator Drain Line
48:05 Installing No-Vac Mr Cool Refrigerant Lines
55:00 Installing Thermostat Wires and testing Mr Cool Hyper Heat Unit
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Your videos are easy to follow and very informative. We just installed a Universal 4-5 ton Mr. Cool in a remodel for my son and daughter in law. Big help! Thanks.
This guy make professional hvac guys look bad😊
You did a really good job on this sir! Thanks for sharing! You sound like Mike Festiva talking. He's a youtuber who built his on Mule to run around the property, articulating dump truck to move dirt on his property and a saw mill to saw wood from the property. And on and on it goes!
What a great channel, I usually don't leave any comments but man you did a great job and excellent explanation thank you
That is one amazing project. Well done 👏👏👏👏
I do hvac and I must say
GREAT JOB !
Awesomeness! Best video for the universal I’ve found.
Hope it helps, best of luck on your project!
Wow, what a great video you just dropped. I'm sure it will help a lot of people in the months to come. I would suggest that you seal the ductwork you fabricated. Something like ShurTape 686 metal on metal tape would work. This will do a great job of closing all those openings and will provide cooler air to the home and you won't be sucking warm air into the conditioned supplies. I would have added a condensate float switch as an emergency cut-off when the condensate line stops flowing. You should have also added a high-quality surge protector to the outside unit. These units are run on sophisticated computer control boards and are sensitive to electrical fluctuations. I've been a fan of the Ditek Kool Gaurd 2, but most other brands will help protect your investment.
Great video. Thanks for the additional detail to the original vids. So much information!
You bet!
Thank you 🙏 for your sharing video. It help me to DIY. Great jobs👍
thank you a thorough video
15 years ago our hvac company built custom boxes out of plywood for the return air to enter and for the air handler to set on. Maybe cheaper than buying a kit online. Also don’t forget a good sheet metal contractor will make the box for you as well.
You can also put some refrigeration technology nylog on the flares for extra protection against leaks.
Your best video yet,and the organization of your affiliate links is genius.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Came here expecting to read all the upset hvac contractors saying how they wouldn't work on a diy system and how diy systems won't work right, etc etc etc. You know, basically being butt hurt, they didn't get paid their ridiculous markups!
Yeah, I think even the contractors know that the obscene price of system changeouts these days has forced the explosion of DIY.
Overpriced new installs and equipment changeouts , as the bread and butter profit driver, is a decreasingly viable business model in HVAC...
and around here, they're still slinging basic, bare-minimum 13 SEER* / 80% units with 20+ year old technology
* _may_ be 14 SEER minimum soon
(which, in a way, nothing wrong with that, simpler usually means more reliable, usually ... but their markups on these dumb-as-rocks systems lately are absolutely asinine, "because reasons"...)
But heat pumps? Nobody around here wants to install or touch them. It's nuts. But if they did, I could only imagine what their artificial markups would be on heat pumps...
True that. When I hear HVAC, I hear cash register open. How can marking up by 1000% be ethical to any business
LOL!! that is the VERY FIRST THING I thought right before I attempted to read the comments! lol , the HVAC contractors know they are headed for trouble and its not going to get better for them..
@@richlikeg3722100% that's actually not that bad 😂
Doing an install of the 4 ton version of this system. One thing I learned is finding terminal rings that fit the narrow tight terminals is tricky. What I eventually figured out is I could use a hammer and a concrete slap to make them oval terminals which fit!
thanks. excellent video. you made me want to install one!
Absolutely incredible!
Thanks Eric, hope this helps with your install 👍
Nice job. Looking forward to seeing how well it heats without heat strips.
Me too 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Did you ever figure out how well the heat pump works?
This is epic. Good job.
Thanks!
Went with the MrCool Signature series when my A/C system failed 4 years ago. Been incredibly easy to work with, great quality, was significantly better than the ole Trane setup we pulled out beforehand(Albeit, can't say it's apples to apples because the old system was ancient, plus the ductwork was very undersized. I replaced everything to be new - ductwork, air handler, condenser) I'd say it's definitely harder than using MrCool's precharged linesets because I had to do all that part w/ the gauges, scales etc - significantly more costly, but it all still worked out and works great
Great video. For 240 circuits using romex you should be using the red sheathing version which provides black and red conductor insulation.
That is pretty cool 😎
Great video, I'm considering the hyper heat unit to replace my old system in my mobile home at the lake home. And would have to convert to down draft and as a direct replacement here in S.E. Missouri. I'm on the fence with a 24k or 36k unit. 960 sqft . But with old windows and doors puts it at 3tn.
Only critique is on the plenums, you could have used S-slip for the joints (helps with the flexing). Duct butter the internal seams, the last seam and cover with insulation. The only ones who will know are the next guy who's there to replace the air handler in 25 years and will likely re-use the plenum. Great work otherwise. I've seen pro's hack in pro made duct. Great vid.
thank you!!
ACIQ also has the very same system with hyper heat and the same size. I just finished installing mine and shes a beauty very quiet and cools plenty and heats very quickly.
I have been super impressed with how quiet these units are, very nice 👍
How do you connect the condensat drain? Does that plug screw out and you need a 3/4" male pvc threaded connector?
Loved it!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Hi Scott, I really impressed with your video. I learned a lot from your video today. Keep up your great work, Scott. You are helping a lot of people like me. I am about to move in a house that has windows AC unit everywhere and it's time to change it out with Central Heat pump unit with MrCool.
Do you have the link for the filter rack in your video?
I will need 5 ton system, how am I going to make sure that all accessories I buy match with 5 ton system?
Thanks Scott.
I've used the 3M silver tape (3350) to get a tight seal on my duct work. No air leaks nor whistling.
I still have to watch the whole thing but can we apply duct mastic to all seams and joints to try to increase air tightness in an hvac system? Throughout the return, air handler box, all the supplies etc?
Doesn’t get more gangster than that!
Very entertaining
Thanks!
Awesome video Scott, as always. Getting ready to take on the same DIY project and everything was super informative. Only thing I really wish you did was actually go for Nest etc thermostat since the are generally tricky with these "communicating" units. Any chance you can do a separate video to try and upgrade the thermostat as you kept that 18 gauge wire for later "upgrade" project anyway?
Thanks for the feedback and I will add the Nest install to the list of future videos 👍
Where did you purchase that 90-degree filter rack? Thanks for this install video. Great Job!👍
Did you make a video removing the oil furnace? I would love to see that process!
Okay, so I live in an area that 3-4 weeks a year the LOWs can be between -20F to 10F, which for these kind of heat pumps is not a high efficiency range, and so other brands I know of have supplemental coils that HEAT when the heat pump itself can't do so, do you know if Mr. Cool has equipment with this functionality? Loved your work here, right tools, and a mindset to just take it one step at a time, and make it look almost like a pro did it.
You have had it heating for a bit now, how is it holding up? What are the outside temps in your area and does the heating keep up or is it trying hard and working harder to keep it warm?
I replaced the original 20+ year old central A/C system at my mother's house with a Mr. Cool Universal series unit. The entire experience was great, however, I did opt to cut the precharged lines in order to have a cleaner installation without unsightly loops of excess line. Again, every installation of this type is custom. This was just my preference. A fast and affordable service call to vacuum and recharge the lines was all that was necessary. (Note that I had this done *before* opening the valves on both units. That way only a minimal amount of refrigerant was needed.)
I mounted the exterior unit on the wall, rather than the ground in order to keep the unit cleaner.
The only criticism I have for the Mr. Cool units is the line set insulation. This quickly broke down in Central Florida.
All-in, the replacement cost me ~$3,500 (less than half of the lowest bid from an HVAC contractor). The unit is whisper quiet and consumes half of the electricity of the original unit.
Lastly, this unit has no problems both cooling and heating my mom's home (no resistance heating strips installed).
On the return plenum, your cross breaks (creases) should be installed toward towards the center of your plenum
is there any point using the fused disconnect box indoor? mine has but it melted so i need to swap it with a new one and am not sure if the fused one is needed
Best video for the Mr. Cool heat pump. I just purchased a Mr. Cool Universal 4-5 ton heat pump. You spoke of using a Mr. Cool thermostat. Do you have a model # for this? I looked everywhere to buy the Mr. Cool thermostat and even Mr. Cool didn't show it.
Scott installed the Mr Cool Hyper Heat model, different from the Universal (although they are both central ducted). The Universal can use any 24 V thermostat, the Hyper Heat uses RS485 and that proprietary thermostat comes with it.
Great video, the only issue I see was that the unit doesn’t have a heat strip. You need it as a back up just in case the unit fails with a leak or blockage. Second what will happen when the unit is in defrost mode with no heat strip?
Hey Scott what state are you located, and did you put aux heat or the unit could handle the cold weather by itself, Thanks
I would recommend some aluminum tape around all the joints to help with air loss
Do those quick connect adapters come with the no-vac linesets or did you have to get them separately somewhere?
They come with the lines 👍
Does the airway of the central heat/cooling needs to be insulated? I had someone came and checked my house and he didn’t mention anything about that and and mine are not insulated with the fiberglass
In Florida, replacing an air conditioning system requires a permit...even for DIY installations! I didn't realize this, but found it out the hard way when my mother sold her home. We had to obtain an "after-the-fact" permit for the sale to close. The same was true for a water heater replacement.
I served on submarines as a nuclear engineer and chemist, so my work easily passed, but the permitting requirement came as quite a shock as I've done similar work in several states over the years...all without reqiring permits.
Interesting. How was the history established? I have a couple houses in Florida and have done heat pump changeouts on each. Neither contractor pulled or even mentioned permits.
@@GannDolph I'm not sure. My brother handle the sale.
@@GannDolph If I had to guess it's not a "Florida" thing but a county/city/town thing. I am in RI and it depends entirely on what town you live in. My town is quite lax on permits.
@@kevin9c1 ahh that makes a lot of sense, thanks for that. That definitely is the best possible explanation .. 👍
im using 14/3 and 6/3 if your platform for handler is metal you must ground. read manual not every install is the same. good video. his neutral is unsheathed witch seems sketchy but im not an electrician.
That's not a neutral that's a ground
Why are you using 3 legs, which handler requires that?
Could you give me the model number for the thermostat that you show and where did you get it? Can't find it anywhere
I used to be a union tin knocker, I can’t watch this guy make duct one piece at a time,
Still got the union sticker on my ducting from 1979 🫡
Could you give me the Menards 90' filterbox model or sku #. I think it will work perfect for my build too. Thanks for all the good information!
Menards SKU 6393976 I think there measurements as shown online are the vertical portion (smaller) end of the fitting. Saved a TON of time 👍
When you crank those line sets down, do you need another wrench...two wrenches to do it? Looks like you just used one.
Do you have the link for the sheet metal base?
You'll want to use foil tape and/or mastic to seal the edges of your new duct work. You don't want air leakage on the supply or return through the gaps and cracks or in the ductwork in general. (Even perfectly cut and installed ductwork by default leaks air.)
For sure, thanks for the feedback! 👍
@EverydayHomeRepairs what is the model number for the thermostat been looking everywhere for it and can not find it
if it works and you don't mind your quality then it's good
Some foil tape over those seams would help seal them. Or mastic
For sure 👍
Do you have electric heat strip? Was it preinstalled in the cabinet?
no he does not, heat strips in these systems do not ship in the air handler, they come separate and must be installed
Question: 6/2 wire was added to both the heat pump and air handler to the electrical panel to convert 220v to 110v?
It's all 220v no conversion
What is the part number for the 90 Degree return air shoe
What made you choose the hyper heat over the Universal? Is the hyper heat system a communicating thermostat? I ask because I'm about to purchase either the Universal or the Hyper Heat
I went with the Hyper Heat because it is supposed to have a little more capability in cold conditions. I am interested this winter in measuring the effectiveness of a Heat Pump when the outside temp is below 0F so I wanted to get the Mr Cool most capable unit.
The Universal can effectively heat down to -24°F/31°C. Supplemental resistance heat strips are optional, though additional power is required.
I would purchase the Hyper over the universal (and I live in Florida) just because it includes a ten-year labor warranty.
Do you have the link to the blog post you mentioned?
I don't have the blog put together yet as I will wait for some additional feedback. It should be published at www.everydayhomerepairs.com in a couple months. 👍
Need to buy the thermostat that you have could you give me the model so I can buy it thanks.
how would you do this if the air handler needs to be in a attic?
Where did you purchase the Mr Cool unit and lineset?
The Hyper Heat units are still pretty new but a few of the online suppliers are starting to carry them here is who supplied my unit iwae.com/shop/3-ton-16-seer2-mrcool-hyper-heat-central-ducted-heat-pump-split-system-multiposition-ha23525.html
Great video, I love it. A/C supply houses will not sale a A/c unit without a A/C contractor license. It is a closed world there. You can buy Freon if have an EPA license. But you cannot buy equipment (A/C unit) without it. It is a lot more politics than having the proper certifications. So, this perfect! Thank you.
You bet and thanks for the feedback!
Unfortunately, even with being EPA certified, a lot of places will refuse to sell you refrigerant without a HVAC Contractor license. I'm universally certified w/ refrigerants, spent weeks looking for a business that would sell to me w/o a HVAC license, eventually found one - but I had to order online, out of state lol.
thanks where you get the return duct?
You will see a link in the description for all the parts 👍
USA should really do what us all over the world do 240volt,
Something tells me that switch will not happy anytime soon. Would help to reduce the wire size needed for most circuits.
Really excellent. Does a similar U.S. manufactured unit exist? I discovered this one is made in China and just sold in the U.S.
I am an HVAC dealer and to make installs quicker I try to get as much prefabricated ducting as possible. Where did you get the filter rack and rounded return air boot at? I did not see that in your links of tools and supplies. I use the same return plenum your AHU is sitting on but have been searching for the built-in filter rack for 4-5" filters and the rounded return air boot. Could you please link me or tell me where I can find that item? It is showed at the 13:14 mark of the video. Thank you!! Usually, I use an AprilAire or honeywell filter box to attach between the return and the furnace/AHU, but it would be nice to have a solution that can accept larger filters.
I got that one at Menards which is a large home improvement store around the Midwest. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Aprilaire filters are great. I change the 213 filter once a year.
@@emiller7040 You must have some kind of unicorn super naturally clean air and no pets to run a single Merv 13 filter for a year. We usually use the 210, but some 213’s. Some are changed quarterly or on the bi-annual service schedule. They are absolutely filthy and disgusting at 6 months, so I recommend 90 days, if they have pets or lung issues or other health problems. That’s like not changing your oil for a whole year. How much does your system run? We run continuous fan mode 24/7 and folks have pets and kids. They wouldn’t have any airflow in 12 months. That’s incredible to think about.
@@Balticblue93I've never had a filty filter. No pets, two homes in NC, Carrier systems, one natural gas/central air, one heat pump. Nest thermostats, systems run only when heat /air is called for. I've used genuine Aprilaire filters for probably 20 years. Added the upgrade kits to both homes many years ago so I didn't have to deal with those plastic fingers!
@@emiller7040 That’s incredible, I have yet to see one after 6 months come out not fully clogged full of crap. So I recommend quarterly changes on those systems. I wouldn’t dare do 12 months even if they made a Merv 5 or 8. I prefer Merv 8 on the Honeywell boxes. But AprilAire is a majority of all my clients. And included on all change-outs or new clients. Honeywell takes a 5” box filter, but AprilAire takes up way less room on the vans for stock. Glad you have had such great luck.
Where did you get the s and c cleats?
Menards - Midwest Home Improvement Store
Where is your torque screwdriver? You need to torque your electrical connections down to what is specified for your wire size
Newb question: Does this system provide both heating and AC?
I asked this question prematurely. Yes, yes it does :D
And hopefully it works when it is sub zero this winter 🤞
@@EverydayHomeRepairsso this doesnt also replace a furnace? Is it just supplemental heat?
Isn’t this a heat pump? What are going to do when this goes into defrost and creates water? Mr Cool doesn’t say to have that 10” or more off your slab? Maybe it doesn’t freeze in your location, so it’s not needed.
He has a condensation line. Must not need a pump.
@@emiller7040on the outdoor unit?
@@defomatt2684 The question was edited after I replied and now refers to defrost water. Condensation line is needed at the air handler, inside the basement or attic, which this video shows he has.
I installed mine above highest expected snow line. Had first significant snowfall since I installed 4 months ago. Pretty sure I wouldn’t want the outside unit on a ground slab.
Following along as best as possible with the 24k version of this, what am I missing with the weird square drain plugs in the AHU?
I had to rotate the components as I'm doing a horizontal right configuration so the original vertical drain plugs I was able to remove but the ones I actually need are stuck fast and the plastic is start to warp.
Not sure if there is a very specific tool required here but anyone else had this issue?
I used a small crowbar angled to get 2 grooves n twist left
@@Skat3WhatThatthe plugs I needed to remove turned out to have been fused during the manufacturing process so they were essentially glued in and had to cut them out, but to MrCool's defence they sent me a new drain pan within a couple of weeks.
You better hold up there buddy... you did not mention anything about a surge protection for the outdoor condenser nor did I see one on the disconnect box outside unless there's one already inside the condenser which I HIGHLY doubt,, if I were you, if there is no surge protection on that condenser I would turn the disconnect box back off and I would not run that system until you get one on , or you're going to have problems!! surge protection is a MUST on inverter systems.
3.5 ton unit will have1300-1400 CFM max air flow. Return duct lower 90 deg is too sharp of bend and too small total area that appears to be less than one sq.ft.. A lot of air turbulence created at sharp elbow along with very high air velocity over 1500 FPM. Will raise static pressure resistance.
Thanks for the feedback.
Please add the words heat pump to your description. This will get you more traffic as heat pump installs are hard to find
Need ai powered vr glasses to visualize the ducting configuration
🤯
Did I miss something? Did you forget to insuate your supply plentum? It will get cold and sweat and rust your sheet metal. Made that mistake when rebuilding mine and had to put duct board on the outside instead of the inside. I noticed that your exsting ducts were insuated on the inside.
Your temperaure at the vent were off. For cooling there should be about a 20 degree F difference between return air and supply air. Unless you have a variable speed unit. With a variable speed unit you have to get it operating at high speed to take the measurement.
Why did you pick this one over the Universal? Was this because of a sponsorship? Comparing the specs, the universal is more efficient and they both go the same low outside temps. The Hyper Heat looks to have a slightly better warranty and might be slightly cheaper, but otherwise it looks like the Universal is the better option.
Also, you said you weren't going to use the thicker filter option. They are definitely better: better airflow with higher MERV ratings and they last longer (I change mine once a year).
Why does nobody ever mention on the internet how to remove the drain caps to install the drain pipe? Is it some kind of secret that nobody is supposed to know?
As for thermostats, if you have a blue wire, you have 24 volts and usually in that case, a battery isn't required but has the option. Alternatively, if you MUST have a battery, I would suggest a "Battery Eliminator" or "Dummy Battery". Those can be found in The Amazon. Then perhaps run a wire from an emergency power source (If you have your AC and / or Furnace also powered that way) and you won't have to worry about a damn battery which are harmful for the environment and need to be disposed of in a way that's inconvenient. You said you have 8 wires in 18/7 wire. I purchased a spool of 18/7 and all I have is 7 wires total. So that piqued my curiosity. Was I cheated by The Home Depot ?
Also, since you have about 4 or 6 wires you're not using, a dummy battery would be perfect for you, and you can connect that to some of those wires you're not otherwise using to carry a current. You might even be able to tap off the transformer if you understand how resistors work or just cut the transformer off the dummy battery eliminator and run it from the other end through those "unused" wires.
When I buy electrical tape, I usually go out of my way to find multiple colors. In the case of "Marking" wires I might settle on a multicolor pack which isn't really electrical tape. But if you can, go for actual electrical tape because it's better.
7+ ground 18/7 and 18/7 with ground two separate things.
HVAC tech here. Not a bad job at all on the install for a DIYer! I only have two real complaints and a few notes:
1. Heat pumps don’t really work great in cold climates like where I live. Around here heat pumps are normally installed on top of backup heat, either gas or electric. Gas is much better because electric heat elements rack up your power bill quickly. If you live up north you’ll want more than just a heat pump, even the good ones just don’t quite keep up when it’s cold.
2. I’m not a fan of Mr. Cool or any of the DIY systems, but there’s a lot of gatekeeping in the HVAC industry and it’s virtually impossible to buy something like a Trane or Carrier without a mechanical contractor’s license, so this is what you’re kind of stuck with unfortunately.
3. The most important thing about running the line-set is not to kink it. You can get an okay pipe bender online or at Harbor Freight. It’ll save you from linking the line or getting hairpin leaks and also make it look nicer.
I got to say you are way wrong about cold climates That might have been true on old units but new ones will run at -15. I have a 13yr old heat pump over gas and the gas almost never comes on. Newer unit would blow mine away. Also here our electric is cheaper then gas so if i ever had to use the heat strips it still less
Couple of thought, I've noted that a lot of highly respected (by me and others) CZcams content creators are using MrCool products. By the time a professional gets around to installing your system any reasonable DIYer could have installed several systems. In my experience installation costs are often 2-3 times the cost of materials this gives a DIYer significant reserve cash to replace failed parts should any problems occur. Many MrCool products retain the 10 year (near industry best) warranty when homeowners install the product in their own home if the pre charged line sets are used. With that being said I see very few MrCool failures. I do see reports that MrCool customer service is not perfect. Finally the new technology heat pumps are so efficient they will pretty much work fairly well anywhere in the lower 48. Please correct me if my impressions are incorrect. I am strongly leaning DIY MrCool in a new home build. As a foot note in this video's application the 220/240 volt service is still single phase.
Thanks for the feedback, I am having good luck with this unit at least early in the first cold season. I am also installing a 18,000 BTU mini split in my garage today 👍. I can't personally speak to the durability but will keep you guys posted through the channel. I have been monitoring the energy consumption and will put out a video later in the winter showing my experience with a heat pump in cold temps.
Its a drive cleat. C dog
30 gauge thickness is very small metal I use 26 gauge thickness and no offense but you should have used more s cleats you have major leaks everywhere also you didn’t seal any of it with mastic
I don't think the thermostat is actually battery powered. It doesn't power on until power is supplied to the air handler.
Ok thanks for the relief, I’m setting mine up rn and after the battery the thermostat didn’t power on. Kinda thought it was a dud
Good job wearing cut resistant gloves people post videos that will get a diy people stitches. Two screws on each end of s clips not in the middle
Lol
We are in the generation of diy because the economy is so inflated
I have always enjoyed taking on DIY project and saving on labor cost is a big bonus.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you so much for sharing your journey. Is it possible to get the air handler without fiberglass since its in a conditioned space
Could you give me the model number for the thermostat that you show and where did you get it? Can't find it anywhere
comes with mr cool