Mr. Cool DIY Heat Pump Part 4 Installing the outdoor unit ducted universal
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Tools and parts used to install outdoor unit
amzn.to/3whjPJ2 Mr. Cool 4/5 Ton outdoor unit with Air Handler and 25ft Lineset
amzn.to/3wgGeX6 35A Breaker
amzn.to/3pxlhn6 Concrete Anchors
amzn.to/3T0YoFT Masonry Drill Bit
amzn.to/3K5AHbs Nylog BLUE thread gasket sealant
amzn.to/3Kb2YO2 Tube Bender
amzn.to/3A70ziM Allen Wrench Set
amzn.to/3wfLtGg Crescent Wrench
amzn.to/3AIYDi1 Thermostat Wire
amzn.to/3KmwiRP R410 Manifold Set
amzn.to/3pvYY0V Ball Valve
amzn.to/3pwjwGx Impact Drill (mine is no longer made but this one will work)
amzn.to/3T2c4QW 3/8 Pipe Insulation
amzn.to/3PvnQ3u 3/4 Pipe Insulation
amzn.to/3pT9NdP Metal Strapping
amzn.to/3AzvBRI Washable Filter - Věda a technologie
I'm so happy you documented your Mr Cool installation and posted the videos on CZcams. I am going to replace my 30 year old York 2.5 ton heat pump with a Mr Cool 2 to 3 ton Universal in the Spring. I noticed you did not use a torque wrench when tightening the line set on the indoor and outdoor unit. Did you use one off camera? Is the system still performing as well as when you installed it? Thanks again for your great videos!
No torque wrench used. I can get a ball park feeling on how tight something is. I also used sealer on the connections as well as leak tested it.
It's been preforming nicely. A like little louder in the winter, but still good. Subscribe for some soon to be released performance metrics on the system.
@@stem_saving1644 Thanks for the reply. I'm afraid the little voice in my head would keep saying "maybe a little tighter" until I went too far LOL. I'll try to borrow a torque wrench. I will also use the Nylog Blue and apply it just as you did in your video. Just subscribed to your channel and looking forward to any updates.
Where did you get the nice white cover over the refrigerant line/condenser connection (9:14 in video) ?
It comes with the unit
Thanks so much for sharing this! I'm a little confused about the electrical. I get that there is a separate breaker for the condenser and the air handler. I get that power for the condenser runs through the breakout box you have mounted on the outside wall. Does the power for the air handler run directly to the air handler, or is there another breakout box? Thanks again.
Outdoor disconnect is meant to allow you to remove power without having to go inside. My inside unit doesn't have a disconnect ... as you're already inside. But might be convenient, though.
@@stem_saving1644 Thanks!
How large is your house and what is the temperature range for your area? I have solar panels and want to replace a 40+ year old furnace in a 1600 sqft house with an air handler and outdoor heat pump so I'm trying to figure out the proper size for the units. I can place the outdoor unit near the garage and run about a 25 foot line set into the garage where the air handler unit will replace the current furnace.
I have 1600 sqft for cooling and 3200 for heating due to a finished basement. We see both extremes for temperatures 10f to 110f. You could probably get by with the 3ton just fine. Hope that helps.
Why do your thermostat wires differ in color from matching sides? I’m going to install one (novice) and confused to why you match blue to purple and not to blue?
Not sure where your seeing purple? Colors are just meant to id wires, they are just copper. You can use whatever color you like. But in most cases color represents the part the wire attaches to.
Do you not have to torque any of the fittings? When I put in a mini in my living room I got the flare tool and the fieldpiece SMAN 380 I think it was. Saved me so much money in service calls. I thought the flares were messed up in my mini after about 5 years I had a slow leak. Low and behold I heard a hissss when switching to heat one day and found something that looked like a dent the size of a machine screw was leaking on the side of the indoor coil. It wasnt a boldge out but a clear puncture in that had not ruptured. I then had to braze the spot then vacuum the lines out, triple evacuate, and charge. I knew how to do none of this before putting in a Rheem home heat pump in 2010.
You should, but I have a good feel for torque, plus I used nylog... so I shouldn't have any leaks.
Did you used a 8awg with the 40 amp breaker and the inside unit is 102 volts or 240 volts? thank for your time. I got one coming and would like to get the wires ready to lay up.
35a douple pole breaker, with 8awg will do if running in 4ton mode. Everything is 240v.
@@stem_saving1644 Thank you for the infomation
Your welcome
Hey so how did you determine what size unit was needed for your home? I live in Denver CO and I’m considering buying the 5 ton universal heat pump model and I’m wondering if I need one or two for my ~2300Sqft ranch house?
General rule of thumb is 1 ton per 600sqft. If your good with math, you can do a manual J, which will get you closer. I was a one off case, had 1600sqft of cooling and 3200sqft of heating requirements... so I went with the 4/5 ton.
@@stem_saving1644 Thanks for the feedback good sir! I’ve been Googling but there’s a lot of bad info out there. I’d never heard of the Manual J before but that sounds like exactly what I need, and it might be worth it to do regardless as it could inform my whole strategy.
Exactly. Most of the items you can do yourself with some research and calculations. Just need to spend time and effort.
thanks for this! considering the same. Do you use for heat also? if so is it efficent?
Yes. I run it in both modes. It's a little cheaper than natural gas to run. It's worked into the teens just fine.
I bought 2
You must have a huge house!
How d you now if yor outside sistem is on. Cooling or heating ???thanyou
There is a specific wire that calls out the mode. You can also feel the coil, in the winter it will be colder than the outside air temp, in the summer warmer.
I was surprised you didn't pull vacuum. Or did I missed it in the video?
Not needed. Pre charged lineset.
Have you had any issues with the lines freezing in the summer when running the AC? I checked mine for leaks and couldn’t find any. Condensate is draining correctly, but still unsure as to why it is freezing
It's usually a couple things. The charge on the system, air flow across coil. Dirty filter or coil, which restricts airflow.
The mister shouldn't cause any issues assuming everything else is working as it should. It sounds like refrigerant might be low. You can buy gauges to check that.
@@stem_saving1644 do you know what the levels should mark for this system in terms of refrigerant?
Not off the top of my head, it's probably in the literature or on a faceplate.
Is 10 amps all it draws when reached set point? I am considering buying one of those units for my home.
That depends on the outdoor temp. There is a power draw to temp chart that mr. Cool has.
I also just installed this 4/5 ton unit. The spec specifies the max current of 35A. Max breaker of 45A. I use a 40A breaker that I have sitting around.
Wondering if you have it set to 5 ton and one more thing I noticed on the thermostat cables you have the C connected and I don't. What is that for?
The C connection is the 24 VAC Common. It is optional, but if you use a smart thermostat, many need to connect to the C connection to supply power to the thermostat, especially to run the WiFi radio. You probably minimally have a 18/5 thermostat cable from the air handler to the thermostat. The blue wire (if the color convention is followed) probably is in there and not hooked up. Just connect the blue wire from the air handler C connection to the thermostat C connection. Verify you have 24 VAC between Rc and C.
I just installed the same unit yesterday. Did you install the drain plug that came with it ?
Nope. I was told it would crack
Thanks, I didn’t either. Thought it was kind of odd but wanted to check with somebody else.
By the way… Thanks for the videos. Yours were the best for this install I’ve seen. 🍻
@@paulpts6704 thanks! I try to show that anyone can do it and save some cash
I see you were measuring amp draw. I've been tracking my compressor with the emporia power monitoring systems. My outdoor unit routinely draws 20 to 22 amps after ramp up. I was a bit surprised by this since the Rated Load Amps (RLA) on the data plate is 16 amps. I have a 2/3 ton unit setup in 3 ton mode. Do you have any idea if your outdoor unit draws more amps than what is listed on the data plate on the side of outdoor unit? I'm just trying to determine if this is normal. Thanks!
It does. Some control systems that have quick rise times will overshoot their average during ramp up. I seen mine did 7kw, but then damps down. It's the power usage (steady state) at the given temp that's important.... at least to me.
@@stem_saving1644 Just to be clear it is pulling 20 to 22 at steady state. I have plots from the emporia energy monitor and there really isn't an overshoot on my system. When the system had more vibration that I expected I started tracking amp draw because I was worried about the health of the compressor. I still don't understand how to reconcile the data plate saying 16 amps max and it pulling 20-22. Sometimes it hard to ignore things when you're an engineer.
@mtbphil168 The current should be proportional to the temp. Give or take a few watts. But yeah, I agree with your last statement. 😀
@@stem_saving1644 which temp are you referring to? Outside temp or refrigerant temp. It does not seem proportional to outside temp from what I've seen. This is a noncommunicating compressor and it really seams to operate like a normal compressor but with a ramp up. It pretty much ramps up to a steady state of 18 to 22 amps. So if it's proportional it's only a few amps change
How do you switch it from 4 to 5 ton?
Not sure what your asking? It's usually kept in one more or another.
It's getting close to a year since ypu posted these videos - how is the system running?
Great, I'm getting ready to post some energy consumption rates soon.
@@stem_saving1644 Outstanding! My AC and gas furnace system is 20 years old now. We installed solar panels a little over a year ago, and just this year I replaced my old busted gas water heater with an electric water heater, and now I want to swap my central air system over to a heat pump and get rid of the natural gas altogether. The MrCool system looks like it's the way to go!
Thank you for showing your install and for giving updates! Looking forward to the next video. Take care.
@crxtodd16 might want to consider heat pump hot water heater as well. I have a video on that too. I pay 3-5$ a month to heat the water. Crazy low.
@@stem_saving1644 Oh dang, that's awesome!! Unfortunately I had some plumbers tell me not to get a heat pump water heater because they "always break down", thus I got scared into buying an electric unit and installed myself. I put tons of insulation down in the new pipes and I put a heater jacket on it. But still, I'm paying more than that in electric bills for the heater...
Sounds like I should have gotten the heat pump water heater to begin with!
The manuals say over and over not to use a thread sealant.. Why is that?
Where does it specifically say that?
@@stem_saving1644 I suppose the warning is vague... Here's the exact text
"Do not apply pipe dope and/or Teflon tape to the thread of the connection. Doing so could cause refrigerant to leak"
I suppose tape and dope are not meant for these applications to begin with and they're likely addressing the DIY nature to instinctually use what they might for other applications.
I agree some Nylog shouldn't be a problem
Pipe dope and or teflon thread are considered solids and could gap the threads and cause further leaks, vs a liquid which conforms to the shape of the container (threads) and fills the voids and doesn't cause any possible expansion.... which is the devil for refrigerant.
Greaft video...Music = distracting
Oh boy… well if it’s stupid and it works then I guess it ain’t stupid. The lack of inflection in your voice screams “I know how this works because I’m an engineer.”
Not even sure what you're remotely talking about.
Did he just put a big hole in a rim joist? Now I understand why DIY people need professionals to preform installs and have inspections called in 😂😂😂😂😂
LOL, need professionals to drill holes? It's not needed. Diy kits put "professionals " out of demand. Glad I didn't have to pay professionals costs and still get an awesome heat pump.
The point I was making is you compromised the rim Joist. If somebody does something like that on one of my jobs they would be figuring out how to repair the joist that is a structural component that holds the house weight
If you believe that saving money is more important than saving your house that is a decision that only you can make
@@thewrenchgarage7986 millions of people put erv and hrvs in houses, they also have 6" intakes and exhausts. Guess all those folks are not saving their houses either?
You do realize houses have multiple floor joists to distribute loads and are over engineered to take dynamic loads?
Guess dryer vents or pvc pipes or gas and water lines or utilities lines all penetrate the rim joists as well and compromise the rim joists. But back to my original comment, it's distributed loads across the joists.
Mrcool is the worst brand you can buy. Mine didn't last 6 months from new
We have different data points, mine has worked for 3 years, and there are no issues.
you only get 5 year warranty cause you installed it yourself
OK, so what's the alternative pay someone 4k to install it for the same price I can replace it for?
I have a question. It is a different scenario. I just learned of these particular systems but I am aware of the mini-splits. I am hoping to install this unit (or something similar) in a 16x60 mobile home manufactured in 92. I was hoping to utilize existing duct work (down draft). I am in the research phases so I am unsure of what might be possible at this point. Do you have any insight into that scenario? Do you suppose it would work?
@@wadeintoit don't buy any Mrcool products. I bought the 5 ton universal and it broken down 3 times already. The warranty department is terrible