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No, still not fixed. Got myself an ultrasonic cleaner and am going to have one more go at disassembly and cleaning. Never had this much problem cleaning Mikunis. Oh well.

@@hotoilhandsI just solved a similar issue can you explain exactly what’s happening? I’ll share what fixed mine if it’s the same thing

@@hotoilhands alright well, you should take the bowl with the accelerator pump off of the carb as an assembly, then fill the bowl with a liquid (water, gas, etc) and actuate the accelerator pump while looking at the brass punch at the top of the float. There should be liquid gushing out, if you see any bubbles or a stream coming out of the hole in the float meant to supply the accelerator pump then your valves (ball, spring, brass punch) are not sealing. You may need to clean that area, I ended up wrapping a bit of very fine steel wool around a cotton swab and putting it in my drill, which I used to clean/polish the seat for the ball with great results. You should also double check the fuel mixture needles housing as those small orings break and stick to the surface and produce a vacuum leak.

Awesome. Makes me feel good to hear I could help.

Yes I know, I misspoke when I made the video. Most people have never heard of JIS. Thanks to differences in manufacture I had to buy metric, SAE, Whitworth, and JIS tools depending on what I work on. Lots of fun eh?

You're welcome. It makes me happy to hear that. 🙂

If you mean shorting the solder points on the relay with a screwdriver it only worked once for me. Every other time it didn't so I stopped trying that. This method worked every time. So far. 😁

Amazing what you find when you dismantle one eh? Did you find the parts you need at Hitchcock's?

I highly recommend Hitchcock's in England. Quality parts and service. I've had great experience with them. They carry parts for all the British and Indian made Bullets.

You're welcome Peter. I've never used a dealer for this bike. I've gotten lots of tips from Bullet groups online, and a good exploded diagram of any part is a big help. Glad this helped you out.

Do you mean what order the three rings go on, or do you mean how to position the ring gaps?

Great to hear that Danny.

Very glad it did. You're welcome.

Well, warming them up is much easier and less risky than desoldering and resoldering on to an 18 year old circuit board. Plus I wouldn't know where to get the correct relays in my town. So the short answer is, because it's easier to just heat them up. 🙂

@@hotoilhandsfair enough. If I figure out what pn will work, I will post it. I’m versed in soldering and electronics, and I’d rather go after the root problem, which sounds like aging, sticky relays.

So exactly what I said in the video then eh? Heat up the relays to free them.

@@hotoilhands pretty much! Lol

Glad to hear it @coroeban. 👍

Good advice, glad your close call had that outcome. Anytime you lift a vehicle and crawl under bears thinking about beforehand to make sure it's stable. 🙂

You're welcome.

I just used general purpose wheel bearing grease, green in colour. Just pack it in by hand until it's filled up.

Glad to hear it. You're welcome. 🙂

You could message me on IG at petitcochon9000

6202 and 6303. I used rubber sealed bearings because I wanted to run 90W gear oil instead of grease inside the box. Use whatever brand you want, choose a better quality bearing though. All the power of the bike is transmitted over these bearings.

@@hotoilhands what's diffrs wtn both 202 & 303

The dimensions. The number indicates inner and outer diameter as well as width of the bearing. RS added as a suffix indicates Rubber Seal which is what I chose so I could seal in the gear oil I chose to use.

@@hotoilhands I use NLGI 0 grade grease in unsealed bearings thx bro

Hi Ben. Very nice of you to say. You're welcome, glad I could help you out. Cheers.

Hi,one more thing,you mention Pete Sniders workshop manual,do you know where I can get one? I have a workshop manual, 1990-1999.but it’s pretty basic. Thanks in advance, Kind regards Ben.

Yes I did. Pretty stupid on my part. As it turned out I needed to get a new one anyway with that damaged bearing stuck in there. After I got the new one I figured out how to get the stuck bearing out. I fixed the hammer damage and kept it as a spare part. Oh well, lots of learnings.

That's nice of you. Very glad if it helped. I know only too well how annoying this "feature" is.

Thank you. I took my time and watched several YT videos before and during the rebuild. I would check out EC Fix. He has lots of informative videos. Good luck, it's a pretty simple gearbox. Since I put in the sealed bearings I've had no leaks.

I can't agree Marty. If you don't get the spacer out there's no "space" to move the wheel sideway to get it off the brake assembly. If you watch you'll see how until the spacer drops out the wheel is hanging in the brake assembly.

Sounds like you're getting the signal out of the door control Clyde. But the window motor or gears is an issue?

Sorry Paul, I'm afraid not. My camera kept acting up and what would've been Part 4 didn't run long enough to be of use. Too bad because the issue I ran into was the washers had compressed around several of the studs. It was very difficult to get the head off. I made sure that the new washers I installed had their ID opened up a bit so when they crushed they wouldn't grab onto the studs. I don't want to repeat that struggle. 🙂

The msnual doesn't say, but Tim Busby from N.Z. who has rebuilt many of these engines told me this. The piston top land diameter should be no lesd than 0.028" smaller than the nominal bore. 0.030" is better. Piston slap killed many of the engines he's worked on apparently. Hope that helps. I put in a new forged piston on that rebuild, all tolerances were good, and have had no issues. The engine pulls well.

@@hotoilhands thanks bro

Hey hotoilhands, can you please explain what other tolerances you measured

I hope it helped Tom. Making small adjustments to get them working how you want is the journey and the charm of these machines I think.

@@hotoilhandsWell it started around 11 pm last night ... I had to keep the garage door down due to noise while inhaling a lot of exhaust fumes 😆...probably killed some brain cells . Anywho...as i am troubleshooting this thing - What in your experience should needle clip position be to start with? The bike is basically new ( ~260 miles on the clock). Previous owner mentioned his friend was in the carb years ago - thus my question.

Hi Tom. I'm sorry, I haven't checked my emails for some time so am just seeing this now. Are you still experiencing this problem? I have some suggestions if so.

@@hotoilhands hello and thank you for getting back with me. Soo it has gotten worse i think 😆 because in the process of adjusting and coughing back - the sprag locked up....well i know this because kicker and the motor want to turn the starter motor now...😂😂😂. Well one thing at the time. I just removed the starter motor and continued with adjustments. I now have a new free flowing header, muffler, removed air injection. I have installed Hitchcock's recommended jet kit to my mikarb vm28 - but still no ability to transition from enricher circuit to pilot idle jet or needle jet or main jet. I kept dropping the needle but this did not work i will now rise the needle - see if this work but i honestly think this Mikarb is just junk?

Is there a blockoff plate available if I decided to remove the starter permanently?

You're welcome. Hope it helped.

Good to hear Pete.

Glad to hear it Mike.

I have the side covers but am not parting with them. I do see them come up occasionally on eBay but they are usually pricey. Good luck.

Hi Hridesh. Are you asking a question, or just making a comment about the video? 🙂

The cylinder diameter, or bore, is 84mm nominal. So that's when it's new. The cylinder length doesn't matter, the stroke of the piston is 90mm. My engine had little wear on the bore so I did not need to go up a ring size, I could install rings for a new engine. You might want to download the free manual at, www.manualslib.com/download/837479/Royal-Enfield-Bullet.html, it gives the specs for the bike and is OK for some simple tasks though lacking in detail.

Glad to hear it worked for you.

I've never seen a five ring. Three is all you need for a four stroke engine like this. Cheers.

Actually there are 2 extra rings with the third (oil ring) one

@@AN-ci6iy The oil scraper is considered one ring since it acts as a whole and sits in one piston groove.

Good to hear from you Rob. Thanks, I hope folks get some use out of the videos. Cheers.

@@hotoilhands May I email you if I have questions on maintaining my bike, I have done lots of work already but don’t know anyone who has an Enfield so no feed back

Sure, no problem Rob. I've always been the only maintainer for my bike so have learned a lot and don't mind sharing.. Still learning in fact. 🙂

Hi Zach. I believe the 2003 model still uses the drum front and rear. They'll be the same size as previous years. 7inch front, 6 inch rear. I got the set I'm using now from an Indian vendor on Ebay, though Hitchcock's carry them as well. I spent some time studying the Ebay pics from different vendors and chose ones that to my eye looked like they were made correctly. Hope that helps.

You're welcome. Hope it helped.

Sounds good Jo Ho. Hope you find it useful.

@@hotoilhands It's always great to see how someone else is doing the job - especially tuning. You do a great job in going into details 👍

I don't know Yahir. Sorry I can't help you with that question.

@@hotoilhands Thank you very much Broo, and very good content