Video

Exactly, it's an awesome bit of glass.

Oh those two primes will be a lot easier to carry around and use than the 24-70. I say it balances well as I am used to carrying heavier lenses all day and the weight savings do help a good bit. It's a fantastic but of glass though.

Delighted to hear it helped 🙂 enjoy the flying.

Hi Martin, Thanks for the feedback and glad you enjoyed it.

Even worse than a UV filter it's a diffusion filter. That's a Formatt Hitech 1/8th black Super mist diffusion filter. I use them a lot when I shoot video. I love the look they give on the 35mm and 50mm, I go a bit weaker for longer focal lengths then. Thanks for watching and for the question 👍

Maybe it's just me so then 🙂, I do shoot a good bit in low light. It's a great lens though and well worth the money. Thanks for the feedback and for watching 👍

How did it go? I have used mine a ton since and I am liking it more and more.

The F4 is a good lens but it has its limitations, I would probably go for the 24-120mm F4 over the 24-70 F4 if I had to choose between them. Every lens has its purpose though and for me and for events and commercial shoots I couldn't buy anything else other than the 24-70 F2.8 in that focal range. We all use our equipment differently though and we shoot different genres also so not everyone will want or need the F2.8. I know loads of people that adore the F4 and swear by it.

You can trigger other Neewer flashes that have the Q wireless system built-in. Or you can use the QPro wireless trigger to fire them also if you want.

@@kieranhayesphotography only Newer?

@@ronlemelinphotography only Neewer Q wireless flashes, it won't work with the Godox system. They all have their own control signals to avoid interference or false triggering.

Hi Stephan, totally agree with you, it's not cheap but so worth it. It's a long term investment in a stunning lens. I always thought the F mount was good but this lens is just so much better.

Hi Jesse, sorry to hear you are not happy with the cage. I have never had an issue with the camera twisting in the cage and that's why I usually don't use the additional anti twist pins as I have found once the camera is tightened in place properly there is no give or wiggle, I also use an L Bracket with the Z8 so I tend to swap it in and out a bit, so I generally don't use the additional anti twist points. As I mentioned I also have two Smallrig cages here and found no advantage in them personally, I will pass your comments onto Neewer though.

Thanks a lot, it's a mono mic but if you use two of them you will get stereo then. Or you can add the mono recording to left and right track for double mono. That's the way most mics like that are used. I hope that helps a bit.

@@kieranhayesphotographythank you 👍

The 14-24 F2.8 is a stunning lens for astro and architecture. The 14-30 F4 has some huge advantages also for filter and weight and travelling around with. At the end of the day they both have their distinct places and fairplay to Nikon for designing both lenses so perfectly to keep us all happy. It's great people can debate pros and cons for both.

It's something else for a zoom 👍

In fairness there is no bad Series lens, they are all really good and they definitely all have their purposes, I tend to use the 24-70 F2.8 and have a second body then with the 70-200 on a dual camera harness. It all just goes to show how we all have our own styles and probably also shoot different genres of work then too. Thanks for watching and for the feedback.

Hey Stan, I genuinely don't think you will regret that choice at all. The 24-120 is a great all round lens though. My wish list is a 14- 200mm F2.8 but Nikon just won't listen to me 😂. I would buy that lens in the morning 😉

Hi Peter, the 24-120 is a great lens, no doubt about that. Fantastic all rounder and great for travel. Always interesting to hear how other people use their gear. Personally I would miss the extra stop of light but we all shoot differently, that's the great thing about photography.

Hi Philip, that's exactly it. It's a fantastic all rounder. Hard to beat primes though for that extra stop of light in some cases. The 35mm F1.8 is a cracking lens, I also use that and my 50mm for shooting these videos. The Z range of lenses are truly amazing, we live in a great time for photography gear. Thanks for watching and for the feedback and any photographer that can control light properly will always be busy 😉

It probably wouldn't drop the price very much Leon. I will say I find it very handy, especially in low light situations. I have been there before and able to afford a lens like that. I would see all this fancy gear and just drool over it constantly. So I know where you are coming from. One day soon fingers crossed 👍

@@kieranhayesphotography Perhaps, if the camera didn't already display it on the top display and doesn't require a button push.

@@leonfisher it's the focal length and focusing distance I find handy the aperture as you say isn't as useful as it's on the told display anyway 😉 I am just hoping that with future updates we might be able to see focus memory points on these lenses also. Fingers crossed for that one.

€165.- would be a steal for that lens but ya with the crop that might be an issue depending on what you want it for of course. Thanks for watching and good luck with the lens hunt.

Hi, None of the Z cameras can meter once you go over 30 seconds. But it's very easy to work it out with apps on your phone. Just get the correct exposure at a normal shutter speed without a filter and work it out from there. You can focus through a six stop ND filter and 10 stop filter generally speaking but it also does depend on the light levels you are shooting in. Focusing through a very strong ND filter is generally not an option that's why having a filter holder is so handy as you can simply pop it on and off to focus. .as regards any other brand I haven't tried any of them recently for very long exposures recently. I hope that helps a bit.

@@kieranhayesphotography thank so much for taking the time to come back with a detailed response! I have subscribed :) My current long exposure 'workflow' on my D7100 looks something like this: - Frame the shot while handholding and moving around get the best comp, squinting through the tiny viewfinder with glasses on - Set up tripod and try and match the framing (I feel a flippy screen would really help to confirm the framing is right without being a part-time contortionist!) - Using AP, set F11 (usually), take shot, check for highlight blinkies on LCD and confirm framing is correct - Switch to manual and dial in settings - Point autofocus, usually a spot roughly third into the scene and hit back-button AF - Use phone app to calculate exposure with ND - Set camera to bracketing if required - Screw in ND filter. Usually drop filter. Try again. - Hit the BBAF out of muscle memory and defocus the camera - Repeat previous steps - *Hopefully* remember to stick eletrcial tape over the viewfinder - Set self-timer timer or program manual remote if over 30s - Check result on camera for highlight blinkies - Usually remember I haven't covered the viewfinder with tape and see pink banding - Repeat the exposure with electrical tape now in place I find this process painful and off-putting. I'm sure bad parts of my workflow are definitely my own cause e.g. I should probably be manual focusing. However, I'm terrified of leaving it on MF next time I shoot casually. I do this all the time with bracketing and leave it on by mistake. I don't shoot often enough so that all of the above becomes second nature, but because I find the whole process so painful, I'm not motivated to get to that point. *Anything* mirrorless can do to help with the above would be a godsend! I've looked into Kase filters in the past (I'm sure there are other brands now) and I agree they would help a lot! Thanks again!

Yes, the audio quality from these mics is great 👍

Hi Peter, Tahnks for the kind words and sorry about the delayed reply, I was away on holidays for the last week and your comment slipped through unnoticed. Since I posted the video I have slightly changed my opionion on the motion corttroller and I get it a bit more now but the level of control with the normal controller I still find is just that bit better but then again that's also what I am used to using also. I haven't really tried fully manual yet as I am farily sure I will right off the Avata 2 if I do :-) I am trying to keep the controls roughly the same between my Mavis 3 and Avata so I hopefully won't do sometrhing stupid then :-)

@@kieranhayesphotography Thankyou for your comment and the information greetings peter

Crazily we don't have lucky charms in Ireland :-) but I do know what you are talking about 😂

Hi Brandon, I am using it on a few different light stands and they all work fine but I mainly use it on the Neewer stainless steel photography light stand. Or even better get a C Stand Have you a stand that it's not fitting right on?

Thanks Carey :-)

Sorry to hear that, most important step is to take the battery out as soon as you can and dry it out thoroughly. That should prevent a lot of possible damage. Make sure to let it dry out properly like how I described in the video, that's really important. Fingers crossed it will be ok.

@@kieranhayesphotography Thank you so much for your tips, will surely follow every steps.

@@u3nightcore271 good luck and let me know how you get on.

Hi July, thanks a lot for the sub and the kind words. I used to use the Nikon Z6ii for my videos but now it's a mix of the Z7ii or the Z8 depending on the video I am shooting. Both cameras do a really good job and I use a Nikkor Z 35mm F1.8 lens most of the time. Thanks again and I hope that helps a bit.

Oh god ya, you will really need to crank up those ISOs to crazy high levels. That will test your noise reduction software for you 😂

Thanks a lot for watching and for the feedback, enjoy the mics.

Enjoy the rig and the monitor 👍

I enjoy a good laugh :-)

Nikon protester built than the jammer

Nikon is better built than the jammer.

@@NikCan66 exactly 😉

I just couldn't resist posting this :-)

I hope your Japanese is good 😂

Thanks a lot and glad you found it helpful, I appreciate the feedback.

PS to this post. I have a z6ii and it is a tight fit. A larger body might not work. Not sure if the company makes a bigger model. I’m going from a D500 with am200-500 or a 500pf attached which does fit fine.

Hi Jeffrey, I shoot a lot of different genres and I have about 5 or 6 different camera bags here all with ICU's so I can quickly swap them between bags, so thankfully I am ok for a bag but it's more of the size and weight of it that makes me slow to pop it into the camera bag as I usually have three to six lenses with me when I head out. Amazing lens though and I love using it.

Hey David, with a zoom there are always going to be compromises sadly no matter what one you get, either in the shape of you aperture or image sharpness. As the 14-30 only goes to F4 that could be a slight issue for you, also it wouldn't be as sharp as a prime but in saying that it is still exceptionally good. The huge advantages are of course weight and having the entire 14-30mm focal length in one lens. Do you shoot a lot in lowlight situations? If so then you will se a nice difference here. If you shoot mainly landscapes then there is very little between them unless you really pixel peep.

@@kieranhayesphotography I usually only take pictures of landscapes, I see in dxomark site that the Nikon 24mm get a score of 44 points and the Nikon Z 14-30 get 23 points...thanks for your answer

I had a 16 minute section recorded on the shrink wrap but I just couldn't do it enough justice so I decided to let that be a surprise for people when they get it. I highly recommend you sit down while opening the box. Mind blowing experience just slicing through that initial piece of shrink wrap and the peel back is honestly something everyone should experience. Enjoy every minute of it and you can thank me later 😉

Hi, I honestly havn't tried it I have used Uncrashed a few times but then again I am not flying the drone in Manual mode only sports mode so far.

Drones can be tricky alright, especially when you want to fly near objects at speed. Stabailization in the camera has to be off. Gyro Flow works wonders at stabalizing video once it has the stabalization data.

Enjoy every second of it. Videography is fantastic once you start on the right foot it's a lot easier.

Thanks Leon, It was really harsh that day alright, I also didn't have ND filters at the time so my shutterspeed was way off. Hopefully it will look better when or if I get back there again.

Thanks a lot, appreciate it 👍

It's something truly special alright 👍

Hi Pavel, when you say they are a disaster are they very noisy or is noise just more visible? It's also very important to get your exposure right when you are shooting higher ISO's. If you are boosting the exposure or shadows in post you are going to really see noise then. The other thing here is what you might consider a disaster is what others find very acceptable, personally I am happy up till about ISO 1,600 at a push but I prefer to stay at or below ISO 800.

Hi, Yes, it was all recorded at 8K60P in NRAW in high detail mode, I hope that helps.

Hi Gordon, I own 16 different 4 X 5.65" filters and only three of them are from Neewer and they all fit perfectly. 4 X 5.65 is the industry standard as I am sure you know and all of mine fit with no issue at all. Are the filters you have 4 x 5.65 or are they 100mm X 150mm. The industry standard is 4 X 5.65" Are the filters you have photography filters by any chance?

@@kieranhayesphotography I didnt know! Ive been a stills photographer all my life and only since ive bought a new Mirrorles Canon R8 have decided to actually film, the standard filter size is 100/150mm for what they call square filters , eg slide in filters as opposed to circular screw in types. I have many from Nisi lee and others. exactly the same filters as are used in filming, the only difference is they are a few mm longer. It never occured to me their would be 2 standards so close together, it just doesnt make sense neither have to be the size they are as both at the usable area are outwith the field of view, It would have made no difference at all if stills filters were that few mm shorter as it the width that dictates and vica versa with the film filters they could just as easily be that few mm longer. 1 standard for both. Now if i had the film filters first they would fit no problem into the sliding filter holders used for stills, but you cant fit the larger filter int a smaller space. A simple solution would to have a filter tray with an adjustable end, a simple pressure plate that could clamp onto the filter ,and a screw thread to move it that few mm to secure the filter, maybe a rubberised end to protect the glass. The cost would be pennies and 1 size would fit all. So im afraid my logic has come a cropper . I have the Matte box 3 filter holders, and no filters that fit. Bearing in mind the cost of each filter is much the same for both and they are just the same ND's polarisers graduated, thats hundreds of ££. Ive found a local glass cutter who can either cut down or grind my larger 150mm filters down to size for £5 each. and smooth them off on the edges, for £40/50 im going to save hundreds . But 2 standards with only a 3/4 mm difference WHY ?

@@gordonyoung1970 H Gordon, like you I am a photographer mainly but over the last 6 years year I have goner more seriously into video. The reason for the two sizes is video filters were and still are 4mm thick filters and 4 x 5.65 inches in size where as photography filters were and still are only two mm thick and 4 x 6 inches. If you cut down your existing filters they could be very loose in the filter trays as they are only half the thickness also. Video filters were always made to a higher standard traditionally as you are panning and any abnormalities in the glass would be clearly evident then when seen on a large screen like in a cinema, stills are more tolerant of slight imperfections. Crazily there are other standard filter sizes for video filters for larger format cameras. Its never easy is it... For you now I would think that cutting your existing filters is not an option as they will be too thin in the trays then. I would think trying to return or sell on the matte box is your best option. You can always use your existing filter holder and the nd filters you have but you just won't have the top flag option. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

It really is a cracking lens and like you I also use it for exactly the same purposes and those extra 30mm has saved me changing lenses a load of times already. The 82mm filter threads were what sold it for me as being able to use 100mm filters is fantastic. Incidenatally I also use my Laowa 12mm Rectilinear lens on the Z8 and it's fantastic too and I have it working on 100mm filter also :-)