How to: BMW E39 Rear Strut Removal and Replacement
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- How to remove and replace the struts on a BMW E39 540i sedan. For this particular video I am using a 1997 BMW 540i sedan, therefore strut replacement for the touring version will be different. Faulty struts will cause excessive bouncing when driving or going over bumps, wheel vibrations or excessive wheel hop, excessive body roll during corning, knocking or clunking sounds, uneven tire wire, and perhaps you may notice an oily residue around the shock or shock shaft. In this particular scenario, my strut mounting point was actually cracked. When replacing struts, this should be in pairs to equal each side. If one strut is worn, then most likely the other will be in a similar condition, so it’s important to balance the handling of the vehicle. So both the passenger’s and driver’s side rear struts will be replacement on this car. #BMWe39 #BMW
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-trim removal tool
-standard screwdriver
-phillips screwdriver
-tape
-3/8” drive ratchet, 3” extension, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 13mm socket, 16mm socket
-1/2” drive ratchet, 17mm socket, 21mm socket
-T40 torx driver
-16mm wrench
-1/2” drive johnson bar
-small bottle jack
-pliers
Procedure:
-remove the rear head rests
-remove the pillar light & remove c pillar trim
-remove the speaker covers
-remove the child restrain caps
-remove the seat starting with the bottom first
-remove seat back
-the seat back then needs to be pulled upward to unclip the 4 mounting tabs on the backside
-tuck the seat belts behind the seat so it’s easier to remove and lift out
-remove the seat belts, they use a 17mm bolt, there will be three in total for each of the seat belts
-remove the plastic clips along the front side where the seat back used to sit
-pop the seat belt trim out, so the seat belt latches can be feed through the holes
-remove the 4 phillips screws on the center headrest bracket
-the rear window shelf can be fully removed
-remove the speakers, they will have 2 phillips screws
-disconnect the electrical connector and lift the speaker out
-the 3 child restraint brackets have a T40 torx bolt
-the seat belt reels will also need to be removed they use a 16mm nut
-jack up the rear of the vehicle
-remove the wheel
-jack up the control arm to remove the weight off the sway bar, then remove the sway bar link
-lower the control arm
-the base of the strut is held in with a 21mm bolt
-pull the insulation back on the rear window shelf and remove the 3 13mm nuts on the top of the strut
-remove the fender liner, there will be various fasteners and clips around the liner that need to be removed
-the fuel tan filler neck will also need to be unbolts and swung out of the way, it uses 2 10mm nuts
-remove the gear clamp on the filler neck and disconnect the hose
-install a bottle jack between the control arm and subframe to hold the wheel carrier assembly into place
-remove the strut, allow it to fall down and then tip the top out
-use a spring compressor to break the strut down
-once the coil spring is under compression, remove the center 16mm nut on the strut assembly
-remove the spring compressor so you can remove all the components from the old strut and install them on the new strut
-replace any worn or damaged parts as needed
-reinstall the spring compressor, then install the top components along with the nut and tighten to 20ft lbs or 27nm
-slowly release the spring compressor and ensure all components are in the correct position and orientation
-ensure the mounting point on the wheel carrier is clean, then install the strut assembly back onto the vehicle
-I used a medium grade threadlocker on all the remaining fasteners
-torque specs for the strut to wheel carrier is 94ft lbs or 127nm
-for the driver’s side, the only difference is the expansion tank for the fuel tank that needs to be swung out of place
-reinstall parts in reverse of removal
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probably one of the best car tutorial I've seen.
Thank you for the kind words :)
God what a nightmare. The shop that's currently doing mine quoted me $500 labor for all 4 corners and I just got the call that it was going to take, ummm, a little longer than they estimated. They really should have watched this first. Great vid btw.
I just wanted to stop by to say thank you. Today I feel I became a man, by changing the rear springs of my BMW 523i e39 with the great help of this video. Your dedication in what you do is amazing, by explaining everything in detail and not skipping anything. Once again thank you and God bless you.
Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback! I really appreciate it :)
لع ٨
Most in depth video. I’m glad I came across this before winging it. I’d trust you with my e39. Thank you God bless
Thank you so much, I appreciate the kind words!
You did a very good and thorough job on this especially regarding removing all the interior stuff carefully, Thank you!
Thank you for the feedback :)
Thanks for the great vid! Have a 2000 M5 so some things were different but for the most part, it is a great guide for getting all those items out from the rear seat area.
No problem, happy to help :)
great instructions just changed my shocks today made it so easy thanks
Awesome to hear and happy I could help!
"........ and finally the strut can be removed."
Lol, it's a bit of a time consuming job unfortunately.
One day job possibly with two people?
Wow this is the best tutorial ever and a great help ! My e39 M% just had the rear struts replaced not long ago and already I'm hearing some serious knocking/clanking from the rear passenger side strut area. Hoping it's not broken somehow.
Great video, my rear strut is cracked!
Thank you!
Very detaild and calm commends thank you
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!
Wow I shouldn`t watch this. Now I know what is waiting for me on the weekend x)
as a 1994 530i owner i’m amazed at how much work it is on this car than mine
Excellent video. Thanks
Thank you!
I don't understand, if I don't remove the upper arm, I won't remove the shock absorber, I tried it yesterday and it didn't work, I have a question, if I finish the undercarriage, is there more room for me to pull the shock out?
Great video, so professional.
Thank you, I really appreciate it :)
Thought about doing this myself on the rear struts after watching a video on the fronts which aren’t nearly as complicated. No way I’m doing all this shit way too much.
I've been hypnotized I'm a mechanic was this intentional?
Well as long as you subscribed, then it was successful lol.
Great! Thank you!
Thank you!
Very detailed DIY, thanq. BMW does not make it easy do they :) May I ask wich Spring compressor u used? I am having trouble finding a good one (not to expensive)
Thank you! I was searching around for the best option that wasn't too expensive, ended up sticking with Blue Point (Snap-on). If I remember right, it worked out to about $150 to my door. And as far as I know it has a lifetime warranty too.
Thanq, I'll check it out.
BMW has made this job too complicated, this is a flaw that the Germans have always had!
Do You Think I can replace the self leveling suspension for struts instead? it's seems that it has the same housing, space, height, and fixation points as the struts.
Great video
Thank you :)
What would happen if I forgot the lower spring bushing?
Ummm I did this on the on the passenger and drivers side at a fraction of the time. You don’t have to remove the wheel well liners. All you need is to do is remove the top control arm completely cut a piece of wood 9 1/2 to 9 3/4. Place the wood on the right wedge it in between the swaybar it will fit almost perfect. Disconnect remove the very top bolt the level sensor then the 16 mm bolt to the right lower control arm. Now move the traction sensor lines and the entire assembly will fall out freely and unencumbered to the left. You’re gonna save about 40 minutes
I have since sold my E39, so I can't remember if there's one or two adjustments, depending on which, it has an adjustment for rear alignment. So you'd have the added cost of getting a rear wheel alignment. Then you also have to preload the control arm bushings, otherwise you'll have a premature failure on the bushings.
What is the style and diameter of the wheels?
Style 5
17x8
+20
Okay how about the rear sagging of the car? Will replacing my struts fix it?
What about working the strut few times down and up before installing it to the car?
yeah, some manufacturers even say this specifically.
Is there a gasket needed on the top mount before installing it ?
Nope.
Imagine what a dealer would charge for this.
Is it the same, or at least similar on e38 740ial?
I would imagine it's similar on an E38. The E39 is basically like a baby E38.
You are a Cutie! Love the Video, What a process! OMG!
If I have fold down rear seats are the seat removal steps in this video necessary?
No
awful BMW.
We replaced 2 struts / shocks on friends car whole day (just one side).
Tired as hell.
And i said him, for the other side call somebody else.
You got the strut out so easily, thats weird.. We did this in the hard way.. Have to rewatch this moment many times..
You removed the gas hose and you remove strut?? weird..
8:38
common issue. friends car also had same.
BMW totally failed at this car.
Yeah the strut will catch up on the filler neck. As far as I know they were the original struts on the rear, over 200,000km so they did have a long life. I actually miss the car very much, it's an older car so it's bound to have problems. But I preferred it far more than my C30.
Make sure you have a piece of wood or bottle Jack to keep the hub going up. Jack up the other side of the car so all the tension is off/anti roll bar links taken off.
Jesus Christ, no wonder mine have never beendone.
So much fucking about basically lol