E39 Rear Shock DIY PART 4
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- Shop E39 shocks here: amzn.to/2bB4CIq
Spring compressor tool: amzn.to/2bg56FC
How to remove and install new rear shocks in an E39.
Watch part 1, rear seat removal: • How to Remove E39 Rear...
Watch part 2, parcel shelf removal: • E39 Parcel Shelf Removal
Watch part 3, passenger rear shock: • E39 Rear Shock Replace...
Watch part 4, driver rear shock: • E39 Rear Shock DIY PART 4
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Due to factors beyond the control of BIMMERZEIT, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BIMMERZEIT assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BIMMERZEIT recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BIMMERZEIT no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BIMMERZEIT. Video and Content is owned by BIMMERZEIT © 2016
![BMW E39 Rear Shock Replacement PART 3 (Left [L] side).](/img/n.gif)
Shop E39 shocks here: amzn.to/2bB4CIq
Spring compressor tool: amzn.to/2bg56FC
One of the most critical procedures to removing the drivers side shock is how to deal with the expansion tank. You showed Very well how to do that. I finally found a worthy tutorial!! Thank You!!
drs1919 1919drs thank you! I’m glad this helped you. The little details matter 😎
I finally figured out your 2x4. Since you're only jacking up one side of the car, the sway bar wants to lift the wheel that's in the air. If you jack up both sides of the car and do one strut at a time, it might be easier as the wheel won't drop much when you remove the nuts on top of the strut. Or... put the jack under the strut with slight pressure, remove the nuts, then lower the jack to drop the strut away from the cap...
My other observation is that with the mud guards out of the way it would be a good time to go rust hunting. E39's in the northeast have a real issue with that, so it would be a great time to clean up any rust and treat it.
Thanks again for the great videos!
Great video. Clear video so we can see everything and you narrate great too. Thanks for all your hard work. It makes a job so much easier when you see it done properly once beforehand.
I just wanted to stop by to say thank you. Today I feel I became a man, by changing the rear springs of my BMW 523i e39 with the great help of this video. Your dedication in what you do is amazing, by explaining everything in detail and not skipping anything. Once again thank you and God bless you.
Congrats on getting that work done yourself! It's not an easy job by any means. Thanks for the positive comment man!
this video is very well done and comprehensive in almost every aspect. For anyone attempting the job in this manner, I've got to point out that keeping the hub in the exact position to align with the new shock is tough. The 9 1/2" two by four wedged in snuggly for me, but the pressure still compressed the space by about 1/2". Also, the video does not show how you have to align the top and bottom of the shock tower so everything will line up when you install the new shock. So much is right here, I'm not trying to be critical. Just want to pass along some additional info that I think is important.
Damn! You forgot to reinstall the lower perch spring cushion.
💀💀💀
thanks for taking the time to make these excellent videos. I'll be doing my front struts this weekend and the rear shocks in about a month.
You're welcome! Check out my front suspension overhaul here: czcams.com/video/h96mYDfvrUk/video.html
HALLELUJAH! THANK YOU! I was talked into doing these and thought " 2 bolts lickity split , done in about an hour. Good thing you did this to show us " regular shock dudes" theres a whole lot more involved.
Thanks again.
JEDI7ACEN yup... it’s a hugggeeee job
instead of using a block of wood, I found the BMW jack that came with the car was perfect for the job!
Fantastic job! Incredibly instructive and clear! Well done man!
Thanks for your dedicated video to help bimmer comunity around the world. Thanks from Chile
Ignacio Paredes so happy to read this! Thank you Ignacio
Great video. Clear, concise, and easy to follow. Not looking forward to doing this job, but with this additional tool to assist, it will be easier. Cheers!
Excellent videos thank you for these ,they helped me imensely.
Man!!! Your videos are AWESOME! & Very Helpful. Thanks for taking the time-out to share your Knowledge & Talents, to be a Blessing to Others. Very Unselfish of You. Thanks again & GOD Bless!
Keith, thank you for your kind comment. Happy to have helped you!
BIMMER ZEIT Hey...Byrd again! Followed all steps up til getting da strut back installed. I got the top aligned & secured, but can't get the bottom bolt installed, due to strut extension not aligning-up w/ mount.
This is why I used the 2x4 cut to a specific length to force the arm down so it aligns. You may need to tap the wood in more to wedge the arm down and open. Other comments below have said they used the BMW jack instead of the wood block for leverage.
BIMMER ZEIT Yes Sir...I used dat technique I aslo Remembered...U mentioned someone standing on it. That was da Trick!
Great series of videos! I'm going to refer to these when I do mine.
Not sure why you'd reassemble the rear struts without the spring pads. Also, these are good factory shocks, just because they have miles don't assume they're blown. I replaced my M sport shocks at 140k miles and they really didn't need it, all four still had good damping. Just wanted Bilsteins.
What would happen if one forgot the spring pads?
Mine at 114K just sunk into the shock and
never rebounded up lol.
Very good video, will be doing this procedure in a few days, luckily with some help...
Damn this was a good tutorial.
Very helpful video. I'll be doing this job soon and I will be back on checking. Thanks
thanks!
Why did you not install a lower spring pad? Will that not cause noise or vibration?
It was a mistake. My dad still has this car, no noise or issues without a pad.
@@BIMMERZEITT thanks for clarifying
How many miles did you get out of the original struts? What year is your e39? I like your vids, very thorough and good explanation. Thumbs up. As feed back to any one watching this, I would highly recommend replacing the polyurethane bump stops and the plastic dust/dirty covers when replacing the struts. They may look good but they will fall apart soon because of age and wear. Usually, they wear out before the strut does. My wife's e91 bump stops are blown out, same on my e30. I had my e30 replaced with Billstein (and the bumpstops too - already falling apart.) and love them.......Nothing against Sachs they are oem and if you want oem keep them. Bilstein in my opinion are better design and perform better. In some offerings, there is Bilstein "touring" which is just slightly firmer than stock and still gives a nice comfort ride, I have them on my e30. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! The car has 140,000 miles on it and the shocks are original. I bet they have been blown since 100k though, most OEM shocks don't last more than that. This is a 2001 530i Sport Package.
Thanks......My e39 is a garage princess, only 78k. I wish I had the 3.0, only have the 2.5 but it is a 5 speed manual, with sport package (M). I love your rims. I will keep this in mind. My wife had 99 e39 Touring, we only had to replace the front struts at around 140k. The back probably should have been replaced but they did not totally wear out and it still rode good. Sold that car with 235k still running strong. Have you replaced the drive shaft yet? That was the other big ticket item (besides cooling system).....some where between 130k-170k. The universal joint goes and the whole shaft has to be replaced because they are pressed in. You can buy new for about $700 or remanfactured for $400. The remans usually allow to just replace the universal joint, if it should ever go again.
78k that is great! Many years left on that car. The driveshaft is original on this car as far as I know. Thanks for sharing that info!
I bought with 58k and I have had it 8 years and only put 20k on it. I hope I can keep it forever....The drive shaft will start to make noise and vibrate. Once that starts to happen, you want to min. driving it and get it replaced. Along with my e30- want to keep it too. Your e30 is nice. Mine is beat really bad. I had the driveshaft replaced in the e30 too.
Excellent video. Just a thought, though, aren't you supposed to tighten the strut nut under load, in other words, after you lower the car to the ground? I noticed you did it before installing the new strut. I'm not saying that you did it wrong, it seems like by doing it the way you did you would be "setting" the strut to operate at a load that might be different than normal.
Pedro Gadea thats only on the suspension arms .. doesnt apply to the strut bolts.
Would also suggest to your audience that a better approach for the rears is rather than removing the fender liners and bending fragile pipes and tubes, just remove the rear upper control arm and drop the shock out. This also removes possibility of scratching the fender. It's a lot of work either way, I've done it both ways.
thanks for sharing your experience and that tip!
What size does that 2x4 have to be?
Also, would it be possible to do it all without removing the plastic lining and setting the lines and tank aside? Maybe by compressing the spring while still there?
Pedro Gadea if you are changing the suspension arms and anti roll bar links then yes ..removing all those mean you can swing the hub way down and pull the strut out without removing the trim and pipes. be carefull of brake pipes and the sensor wires etc but its easy to do. i did mine last weekend and didnt remove any trim apart from the plastic capsules on the bottom of the subframe mounts .
How did u get to the top of the strut? Did you take out the rear seats?
Yes
Torque specs?
Great video!
2003 e39...had to remove the whole rear seats out
This video is part 4… see 1-3 first (detailing seat and parcel shelf removal)
@@BIMMERZEITT Apologies
About how long is that 2x4?
AtomiKat Light Industries he says it in the video for the passenger side. I think it was 9 1/4“
pro job!
all done with gloves and shorts...maybe even flip flops
savage!
BIMMER ZEIT just having fun...made me laugh
What is that tank for ?
It's related to the fuel tank and emissions gear