E39 BMW Tie Rod Removal and Installation DIY
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
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How to remove and install a new tie rod in your BMW.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of BIMMERZEIT, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BIMMERZEIT assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BIMMERZEIT recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BIMMERZEIT no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BIMMERZEIT. Video and Content is owned by BIMMERZEIT © 2016
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STEERING RACK BOOTS: amzn.to/1Y1VBZM
REMOVAL TOOL: amzn.to/24tIiFu
dude, this video has saved me some cash, thank you very much for taking the time to record, edit and upload this, you're the real MVP
Thanks man! So happy to hear it!
Great video! Concise, clear, and no unnecessary padding!
According to Bentley, the torque for the steering tie rod to steering knuckle is 65 Nm / 48 ft-lb.
And a store like Autozone will probably loan the bushing removal tool (basically you buy it and return it within 90 days for a full refund -- I just did this with a $55 Macpherson strut spring compressor kit).
excellent , nice and clean video without any BS - just straight to the point !!!
THANK YOU !! Seriously this video will save me a lot of money .. I think after changing the tie rods I have to do alignment.. idk .. but thank you very much man .
To avoid damage to steering rack white removing tie rod, turn steering until end of rack is as far as possible INSIDE rack housing.
Good to know, tx!
Why?
Very nicely done video, thanks! Need to replace the cracked rubber boots on my 98 528i....looks pretty simple - car steers fine so I think I'm good to replace boots only at 18 years and 115K miles.
thanks Bill, appreciate it. Keep your E39 going, one of the best cars BMW ever made!
Love the vid. Saves me hundreds. Very concise and helpful. You don’t speed through and that was helpful as well.
Just completed this job on my 03 530i. Thank you for the great tutorial. Only tricky part was getting those damn boot clips to tighten lol..didn't have the proper tool
Brilliant video, currently doing my 530i as I type. Love the little clue about the fan tool, that’s great 👍🏼
Hi man, nothing to say more, so clear, thanks a lot
Hi! I know this video is old and it's been addressed in a few comments, but I really think it would be useful to everyone if you indicated in the title that this is specific to I6 models of the E39. It's not readily apparent to anyone if they're viewing this video and it could cause some confusion. Other than that, great video and great DIY!
I love the steady camera. Nicely done! So many of these videos almost make me sea sick :D
thanks for the video, will help me when I change mine, did a strut swap and when using the tie rod removal tool, messed some of the threads on my tie rod....
(Just read your answer below.....this particular sound I've got comes after an alignment and strut/wishbone have been replaced. and I hear it when I'm backing out and turning.)
What was the specific problem you were having with the front axle that had you realize that the tie rod needed to be replaced? I have a small pop sound when driver's tire is turned from left to right. One small short pop sound. I haven't identified if it is the tie rod or some part of the components attached to the knuckle. I'm going to detach the rod from the knuckle, turn the steering from left to right and see if I hear the pop sound. If I don't, I'll see what might be causing the sound on the knuckle. If I hear the sound, I'm thinking some part of the tie rod or steering rack is making the sound.
Good and useful video but you certainly don't need the tool for the ball joint, just take a sledgehammer and hit until the unit drops down. After all the purpose is to replace the tie rod and not to collect on tools which you might need once every few years at best
The tool is necessary for many, especially those of us on east coast with salt on roads. That tool can be used for ball joints, control arms, across many cars. Sometimes you get lucky with the sledge trick, sometimes not!
Good video ZEIT. I am attempting this along with all control arms this weekend. Wish me luck :)
Sudhakar Reddy thanks, good luck! Will drive like a new car after 👌🏻
Thank you for making this video man! This is going to save me a load of money, and I already have the tools :D
Ed, great to hear it!
I have a 523 i Touring -00 and i have an enoying sound from the right front wheel (From Sweden) It`s also a slack in the wheel so everytime i drive over a street edge or something like that, there is a bumping sound. When i raised the car and grabbed the wheel i could feel it and it looked as if it where the tierod. But i am no mechanic so i am not shure. It`s an old car so i whant to try and fix it my self for as low cost as possible but of course you need to know what the problem is first.
Thanks, great video! I am curious if it would be possible after disconnecting both inner and outer tie rods, to replace the outer seal in the rack while still on vehicle. Dont have the dough right now for a replacement rack. Thanks again
Is ball joint seperator necessary? Could i just hammer the ball joint out :D?
I guess so ..I don't think is essential?
Thanks Spidey!
Great video. Video, information, verbal instructions, awesome. Makes it so easy to understand. Any torque setting for the inner 32 mm nut to steering rack? What grease would you recommend for the tie rod at the steering rack? Do I have to get it aligned after this. I have a very slight vibration on the steering wheel only at about 80 mph+. I'm think of doing the tie rods and sway bar end links before the larger job of the upper thrust arms and the lower control arms. Thanks .....
1998 BMW 540i with 157,000 miles.
Hey Chris, thanks. Yeah there may be a torque spec, I don't have a Bentley on hand for it however. I use a molybdenum synthetic grease, it's usually blue. Definitely check wheel/tire first, then go to upper thrust arms for the vibration. If all else checks out, move on to tie rods.
I have what seem like the same exact remover tool Maybe it’s a different brand called performance tool I have a 98 528i and for some reason the tool almost fits over the top of the lock nut but it doesn’t do I have to use a hammer to force it or get a bigger tool
I believe there is a longer, wider tool available now that works better for the ball joints. Made by schwaben I believe.
Absolutely perfect tutorial sir
Karl Stern thanks Karl! 🍻
Is there supposed to be a lockwasher that you bend over the flat part of the 32mm inner nut to keep it from backing off?
Do you have a video on how to replace the front thrust arm? Great video by the way I appreciate your content and I will subscribe!
Fantastic How to my Dude !
I have an e39 that i want to do a suspension overhaul front and rear, everything except my coilovers. What special tools do you recommend I pick up?
Great video! How did you secure the boot clamps?
Very carefully..lol. If I were to do it again I'd just get the generic clips that you can tighten w a screwdriver
Great video
What were the symptoms you were experiencing before you replaced the tie rods? I have an 02 530i and i am experiencing a shimmy between 60-80 mph. I replaced the rotors, helped some, and replaced the thrust arms with lemforder ones, also helped some, but am still experiencing the shimmy and its driving me crazy. I don't really experience much shimmy upon braking. Should i look at the rear suspension? Should i also look to replace the lower control arms in the front and tie rods?
I had some classic tie rod creaking in the steering, audible when turning in and out of parking spots. Also had the classic thrust arm vibration under braking- replacing my thrust arms cured this immediately. If your shimmy is from the front end, I would check that the wheels are 100% true and the tires are good. I had worn tires last year that created a vibration even though tread looked ok. It was caused by blown front struts (also now replaced). Keep diagnosing one step at a time, it takes time and gets expensive, but will be worth it!
+BIMMER ZEIT the tires are new and I thought it could be due to improper balancing so I took it to a different shop and had them rebalance. That's when I took it in to get the thrust arms changed. It went away slightly but it's still there. Could worn tie rods or lower control arms cause the car to shake? If I'm replacing either of those I might as well do both since I have to get an alignment afterwards
Yeah it could be the tie rods. How many miles are on them? Is the vibration from the front or rear of the car? I agree, replace the tie rods it really tightens up the steering feel of the car and better to do now before the alignment.
Im really unsure from which direction it is coming from, but I feel as if it might be from the front. Ever since I got the car they haven't been replaced and am unsure if the previous owner did them or not. Ill start with that since the tie rods and lower arms are easier to diy and one of the boots are ripped, so I'm thinking they got worn quicker due to that. Do you suggest a cheaper place online to purchase lemforder parts?
I have some links in my videos for parts on Amazon. But you can also check out Bavarian Autosport. You'll find that each vendor is cheapest for a few items, so I usually order from a handful of vendors depending on the part.
How about a link for that BMW 32mm fan clutch wrench
The tie rod tool keeps slipping can't get it out
Thank you so much. Its really good to me. From seoul
Good straight forward video
Do you have a part # for the metal sleeve inside the steering knuckle that the tie rod end slides into?
Thank you man ! good job!
best regards from germany :)
Thank you for the helping
Hi, don’t you need to put grease on the passenger side ?
hi very helpful not many video, s on the e39 will a standard 32 mm spanner work thank,s
My outer tie rod is completely rusted to the inner tie rod, thanks for the tip :D
Torque spec on that last joint bolt?
Fantastic!
Does the outer tie rod end need to be greased?
Can u use a normal tie rod splitter
Can you believe somehow the metal sleeve inside steering knuckle came out with tapered shaft of tie rod?
E39 I6.
So I put ball joint separator onto sleeve, crank, crank, crank - separator tool snapped.
Old tie rod back into car, and I now need a machine shop to separate old tie rod from metal sleeve insert. Unbelievable.
Oh yes, I can believe it. The car I did the work on for this video was easy. But I have owned many e39’s... on the one I used in my e39 buyers guide video this happened. I had to bring to a shop and have it pressed out. This is more common in New England and rust belt areas where road salt is used.
Great video.
Are the tie rods different on a 540? I can only find the outer tie rods for sale online. Does the inner tie rod not come off as in your video. Thanks
Yes they are different, the 540i uses a different steering rack as well. Sorry, this DIY is specific to the 6 cylinder model E39's.
Keep them coming matey!
More coming soon!
Hello, I have a 2008 x3 Si and I hit the curb the other day cause a car pulled out in front of me and I had to move out of the way. Both tires on the right side hit but the back tire hit so hard that it bent the control arm.
I had the control arm replaced, normally I do this myself but had no time so had to take it to the shop. When they went to do the alignment they're telling me that the tie rod on the passengers side won't go in all the way and that the steering is off by about 4 mm.
Is this related to me hitting the curb or just typical problem on older x 3's? If not what could cause this and how do I fix it? Do I need to replace the entire rack and pinion?
They told me the tie rod was not cross threaded nor stripped out but something is keeping it from going all the way.
Any advice?
Thank you
Hey Ruiz, sorry to hear about your X3! I haven't heard of that exact scenario before, but it's probably not related to the damage. My first thoughts are - is the tie rod you're installing aftermarket? Is it a cheaper brand or something higher end like Lemforder? That being said, even if it is Lemforder or OEM, it's possible there is just a defect with the tie rod you're trying to install. Send it back and get another new one. So many parts manufactured outside Germany these days (Mexico, China, Eastern Europe) and defective parts are common. Finally, check the rack for corrosion, its very common to need a torch to even remove or adjust most tie rods on a New England car due to the salt corroding parts. Final piece of advice, definitely get a 4-wheel alignment by a reputable shop after you get it all back together.
Thanks for responding so quickly.
Actually, I wasn't changing the tie rod. They just noticed that it wouldn't go in all the way when they did the alignment and it was at the bmw dealership.
It's the same tie rod I had in when I hit the curb which is why I was wondering if it could have been bent or something when I hit the curb even though I hit the back WAY harder than the front so you'd think the rear tie rods would have been bent before the front right? I had to change control arm in the back cause it bent it yet tie rods are fine there so it's a head scratcher to me that the front one may have been bent but like you said it could be something totally unrelated to me hitting the curb.
Incidentally we did buy the car in NJ. I live in Virginia but I'm wondering if like you said with the harsher weather conditions maybe there's some corrosion or rust preventing it from going all the way in?
You can't tell when you drive it. It seems normal to me and the alignment seems great but the guy said the steering is 4 ml off because he can't get the tie rod in any further.
It's my wife's car so I want it to be as safe as possible so it doesn't break down on her when I'm not around.
Should I try replacing the tie rod just in case it got bent? Is this something to be concerned about?
Thanks
Ok I understand. If BMW says its all safe then I'm sure it's good, you may just experience some slight increased tire wear. If tie rods are original (sounds like it) you can find a reputable indie shop to replace them, if there's any issue removing any good shop will have a torch to carefully heat and remove. In my opinion, new tie rods really tightens up the steering feel in a car, I know it made a big difference in driving feel in my 530i.
That's the problem. The BMW guys can't tell me it's safe. I asked and they said, we can't give you advice cause if something happens we'll be liable etc. I can understand their position but I would never hold them accountable as I know it's a crap shoot as to whether this thing will last a while.
I guess I can try to change that tie rod myself later on but I might be opening pandoras box and end up having to change the rack and pinion if the reason it won't go in has something to do with the rack and pinion instead of the tie rod.
My guess is that the tie rod is bent enough to not go in all the way if it's related to the curb otherwise it's probably unrelated.
My wife is gone another two weeks. Maybe I'll drive it everyday until then and see if it passes the sniff test but I will plan on replacing tie rod very soon.
Thanks for all of you help. I really appreciate you responding.
Good job sir thank u very much
19mm
who are the 7 idiots who DIDN'T like this vid????? great job, by the way :)
to save waiting for the ball joint to to break free just give it a tap with a hammer
That "boot" is made in Italy!...
Fuck yeah super good DIY video thanks brotha!
Thanks Jay!