Building and Painting Bronco's Upgunned StuG III C/D - Bronco CB35116 Step by Step
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- čas přidán 16. 12. 2017
- Been busy with exams lately, so sorry for no videos for the past few weeks.
Today's video will be a summary of the build and painting process on this nice kit from Bronco: CB35116 "WWII German StuG III Ausf. C/D (2in1)". We will look at a couple of easy improvements and modifications I did to the kit, as well as do a little hairspray chipping of the base camouflage colour to expose different colours and areas of the tank, emphasizing its rebuilt nature.
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DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated. - Zábava
![StuG III - начало работы [1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/efR_wkMLtr4/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. You are correct about the wear on the road wheel rubber surfaces being damaged and worn. I was in armor on active duty a long time and we would inspect them SOP. This damage was called "chunking" as in chucks would be gouged out and missing. 10% was the rule before replacing the entire road wheel and of course this was an estimation done by sight. Like your channel :)
Thank you!
You really nailed that “leaning forward” characteristic with those suspension modifications. Looks great
I am learning tons from you and Dave. I appreciate all your hard work and devotion to the hobby. Hands down you guys are two of the best I have ever scene. Thanks.
Thank you very much Rick!
Love the whitewash work on this- got to be an undertaking doing all that blending by hand. Really looking forward to seeing the final weathering with pin washes and mud!!
Awesome! Looking forward to the weathering part
Amazing build. Your Stug IIIs always amaze me.
Excellent news, look forward to the build video
Great built so far.
Excellent work Evan, the chipping is spot on!
What a great build!!! Very meticulous detail work and it paid off with awesome realism...Bravo.
Awesome job Evan! I'm looking forward to your next installment. Take care, Scott
A very good build of one of my choice
Many thanks, that was an amazing video, really appreciate you passing on your knowledge.
Awesome job. I appreciate your doing this. Keep them coming!
You sir, are a steely eyed Stug man! The chipping effect is beautiful. Great video!
Very nice build, like always! Your builds are always one of the best, really 👍👌👍👌
Great job!
Looks fantastic!!! I didn’t know that hairspray chipping could produce such precise chips!
Panzermeister you have an eye on detail. Outstanding build tutorial. Definitely the go-to guy for sturmgeschutz you've mastered the German vehicle. ;) my go to guy for questions. Again outstanding build.
You are a true professional Sir........enjoyed that. Well Done.
great work !
Very nice work. Looks very real.
All I can say is “Wow”!!!
I am glad I watch your videos.So much information.
Thank you Rick! Merry Christmas
Very nice! I’ve learned a lot watching your videos!! Tanks for sharing!!
Outstanding Video and presentation.
Fantastic Work!!!!!!!!!
Excellent instructional video. Thank you.
Nice work, enjoyed the video.
Very talented model builder, love to watch your videos. Keep up the good work
Love it bro killing it as always
Another great video, thank you!
Good work!
Great build and paint as usual! Thanks for sharing.✌Canada✌
I love building StuG's, I may not know much about them but this looks awesome! !
Cleaning rods had brass ends because it is a soft metal to prevent damaging the lining inside the barrel. Looks really good man!
Really good work as usual Evan! You're inspiring me to get back to my bench and crack that StuG box open.
Thank you Steve!
You do great work.
Thank you!
As always - Fantastic job!
You are really talented young fellow!
Thank you Mitko! I will email you back your list this weekend when my exams are finished
Fantastic video. Cannot wait until the next one.
Thank you Stevie!
Tank Road Wheels: The first and last road wheel on each side are the ones that take the most damage from the guide tooth on the tracks. The guide tooth tends to take chunks out of the inside edge of the rubber when sharp turns or hard turns from a stop are done. And the tooth can wear through the sides of the metal road wheels.
Great job.Im currently building Tamiya stug 3 b.Going to use Tamiya oxide red rattle can as primer with hair spray chipping.
Brill stuff asual EV, you really are one special modeller
Nice job
Thank you!
Nice! Very freaking nice!
Thanks Michael :)
Hi, thank you for this video. Actually, I'm very interested in this model. So, it's very helpful for me. I always think it's excellent works.
Good format for the build vid Evan. You are getting accurate with the airbrush mate. I wouldn't fancy trying wheels free hand like that. Kudos
22:30 I just ordered this DN mask set. Can't wait!
Merry Christmas.Keep doing what you're doing.Gb starts in 7 days.
Good looking build. Not a real fan of Bronco but I may have to try that one. You've got me hooked on Stug's. :)
Excellent build review of this unique StuG! The angled suspension offers a badass stance for this tank destroyer, that to be honest I have yet to see modelled until now. 106 days for the missing parts to show up, not a moment to soon lol. Glad they were able to get them out to you for completion, nothing grills me harder than opening the box and finding an incomplete kit and most companies won't even respond. Anyways, thoroughly enjoyed this video! :) kutgw bud
P.S. missed you at the HeritageCon a month or so back. Huge turn and out, great models, and an even better atmosphere. I got there a little later than I'd have liked. We'll have to plan for another outing!
Cheers!
Tracks are done like miniarts sprue tracks on the Bronco Dak Stug D I got today I think thereafter workable? 3 sprue tabs.on back and 2 on front likns not on side like on the other bronco kit's but also holes for maybe pins in both end's!
Alex here thank you for replying
thats some damn fine work there man!
Thank you Michael :D
Thank you Michael! May your chickens always have eggs!
Really enjoyed the build, great subject the STUG III. Any M4 build would great or a British subject Comet , Cromwell, Vickers.
Thanks.
I am doing a Sherman currently :)
The later Stug variant leaned forward on its suspension because of the weight of the heavier gun.
The gun mount is in the centre of the hull, though. The force of the gun is only sent to the hull through the location of the mount. If anything made late StuG lean forward, it would be the additional armour or sometimes tons of concrete and spare tracks they added.
@@Panzermeister36 true, armor and gun. When you add that heavier gun and it’s much longer heavier barrel, the weight moves forward. This was also an issue with the Jagdpanzer IV. The rubber clad wheels at the front of that tank destroyer were replaced with all metal wheels because of the excessive wear due the frontal weight.
Another great video mate! 👍👌👏
Have you got your StuG III book yet?
Very nice , thanks
Wilder oils and other paints arrived, looking forward to using them as per your other vids.
However, I had a problem with the chipping effect. I did the process as per your vids, primer, then hair spray then dark yellow. But before I did the chipping, I did blotches of red-brown and green for camo. Then the chipping effect. What I discovered was that red-brown & green gave way exposing the yellow beyond the yellow chipped. I think I should do the yellow first, then chip, then do the camo colours, and rechip. Have you had any issues like that?
Evan, Nice one, looks like the forward suspension is lowered? Was this by design? If so, I may have missed some of your commentary. Thanks for posting....Paul Great job!
Hi Alex here was wondering if you can do a video on detailed camouflage from start to finish maybe a couple of different camouflages if you could also wondering if you can do a video on mesh that they use to put on the gun barrels and sometimes the bodies of the tanks thank you
Hey Alex! I'm doing a camouflage painting and weathering video right now :) So you read my mind.
I just made a little mistake. I did some oil straking before the decals. it there enything you know i can do or if you know if there were panthers without the numbers? nice video btw!
Hey Erik. I'm not too sure, but it's possible. I've seen some panthers without numbers later on in the war, very late...but they may have just been not delivered to their units yet.
i think tanks lean forward when they decelerate when stopping. unless we talk about Strv105
That also occurs. But look up some photos of stugs and you'll see what I mean.
Can you do a video on your collection?! I would like to see that!
+-TheBattlefrontian- On my finished kits?
yes, on finished kits
Will do!
Amazıg
Hello! Great video as usual. Question. You mentioned you replaced the mantle with one from DML. Which Stug iii DML Kit was the donor? Thank you!
+Pierre Salazar likely Dragon 6581. Though most kits will give you it as a spare when they want you to use the early bolted style of mantlet.
Panzermeister36 awesome. Thanks!! Keep up the great work!
What are you going to build when you have runned out ouf stugs?
Well first I'd have to run out of StuGs! I will be holding off StuGs for a little while though, two Shermans are up next for me :)
Here C/Ds are not so easy to come by so I've converted A Tamiya B To a D and I wanted a L43 gun in a Trapezoid Mantlet .
Hey panzermeister what would you recommend for a paint coat using tamiya paints for an Afrika Corps vehicle?
Yes I'd use Tamiya paints and then chip it just like this to show the grey underneath. I don't know what specific colour though since I haven't done a DAK tank in years.
Panzermeister36 thanks
Have you done anything on your t-29 yet?
Hull is all built, just tracks and turret left. I should be able to plow through it now in a few days since I just walked out of my last exam so I'm all free now for the next few weeks :)
Panzermeister36 cool, I’m about the same in progress on dragons t-54e1 it’s such a cool tank and would go well with a t-29 but... it’s not a very good kit unfortunately
这套模型最好的一点是给了两种履带
Yes, everyone understood you perfectly.
Quick question Evan. How long does it take you from the time your hairspray dries til the moment you start chipping (how long does it take you to paint the tank with the top coat). Does the paint not try too much for chipping by the time you cover the whole tank? Whats the working time with top coat/hairspray before its too hard to chip? Im asking because i waited too long once and had to chip so hard that i damages the layer below the hairspray to bare plastic
+Piotr Barycki Usually I will let the bottom layer of paint dry for a few days first. Then I apply two coats of hairspray, usually with about 2 minutes between each coat, and then I wait about 5 minutes before I paint on the top layer of paint. After that, I wait maybe 10 to 15 minutes maximum before I start the chipping. I use Tamiya paints so they can dry quickly on the surface, and give a few hours of time to chip before the paint is fully cured.
@@Panzermeister36 I think my mistake was I didnt wait for the base coat to dry long enough before messing with HS and water
Once can simply not have too many StuG III's in the collection - and this one is looking very smart too! :)
I've not built a Bronco kit yet but this looks promising enough that I might widen my horizon in the future?
One thing is for sure though - I've had enough (for now) of broken Dragon kits! Every time you get a box it rattles like a maracas from all the broken off parts and you never know what's going to be missing in the end? There's nothing wrong with Dragon kits per say, but damn they should include some foam padding between the sprues like so many others do to protect small and delicate parts!
Very nice build and a very balanced paint and weathering job! Looking forward to see the upcoming white wash!
I’m half way through this as a first Bronco and first Stug, I think the kit is good vfm as the tracks are excellent and a lot of the moulded parts fit such as the hatches is very good. However the book says 93 links and it looks like I’m using 97! Have I got too much slack? Did you count yours.
A Panzer III usually takes (in real life) 95 or 96 links per side. 97 is reasonable given tiny variations in the model.
For another example, Panzer IV is supposed to be 99 links in reality and I usually use 101 or so.
The painting is superb
Does your Tamiya paints dry with a slight gritty feel ?
+Android 13 no, that gritty feel means you are thinning them down enough or you are spraying them on with too high of a pressure.
I tried thinning them 50-50 I tried thinning then 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner I even tried adding a retarder and I tried adding flow aid the pressure I’m blowing at is 15 psi and after it dries I go over it with my finger and has a slight gritty feel I can’t figure it out
+Android 13 try two parts thinner to one part paint. That's about what I do, at 15 psi.
Thanks buddy I really appreciate your imput you’re a very good model and I’m impressed by how you paint these model tanks you got me back into model building again I remember you asking if there’s anything that somebody would like to see you would try to get around to it I would like to see you paint and weather a German tank interior a stug iii would be nice have a nice weekend
+Android 13 thank you very much! I am very glad to hear that! I have a couple of StuG III to paint soon where I will cover some interior work. Hopefully some day we get a full interior StuG from Takom or Rye Field or Meng...
I was just wondering what you are studying to? If it´s ok. Happy modelling and keep it up!
I am studying Aerospace Engineering at Carleton University here in Ottawa, Canada. I will be free from exams on thursday, just in time for Christmas lol :)
Very exotic! it sounds like something from Nasa :)
What's your overall experience with the quality of Bronco kits?
It's a wide range....some of their kits are quite basic and easy to build, like these StuGs, while others are notoriously complicated and difficult to assemble.
With all these spare parts you might as well have built the Dragon Stug
+James Mackenzie the Dragon early StuG kits are bad though.
They can’t be that bad - you used a lot of their parts!
Order your Tamiya tape from HLJ.com, much cheaper than buying at the local hobby store. Hopefully shipping to the US should be relatively cheap for such small items.
I live in Canada, so it's much cheaper to buy it in stores than pay shipping fees here
I would support your channel,but my wife lost her job and I am on the verge of losing mine.
Never heard of Broncho kits. How would you rate it compared to Dragon or Tamiya? Great job!!!!
I think this kit is about halfway between Tamiya and Dragon with the parts count and level of detail. Overall, a great kit. Other Bronco kits are super overly complicated though...
Unless it had just been built from they place but other then that nice
I haven't done the weathering yet...
C/D doesn't have long gun tho, ausf F was the first variant which used long gun
Except for the single Ausf. C/D that was upgunned, and is exactly as I built this kit here using the reference photos of it. Look it up on Google images: "upgunned stug c/d" or something.
Alright, thanks
You’ve probably answered this question before; why don’t you paint the tools before mounting them on the hull? Ta.
+Lee Churchill because I'm lazy and I like having as much glued onto the tank as I can before I paint it....I guess I'm worried about losing parts, and also about having to re-mix the base colour again exactly the same to hand-paint the tool clamps which are moulded as part of the tools themselves. It's just my style, but many do it the other way.
Thanks for the quick reply! great video by the way. I’m learning lots
why would you do that? I mean might as well just build the dragon kit
The old imperial Dragon C/D kit is quite bad. The imperial panzer III line is good but the StuGs not so much. I would have had to replace the flashy tracks, the small details, add a cast texture to the mantlet, etc. which are all things I did here anyways. At least this kit has flawless fit and lots of good photoetched details. It's not perfect but it's the better option.
ahh that explain it. Have fun and merry christmas
Thank you! And you too, happy holidays :)
great work !