Deoxit Demystified - how to use it and other electronics cleaners
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2019
- BG049 - Description of the different types electronics cleaners including Deoxit, Faderlube and others.
Sorry, we got a copyright claim filed for a song I used in my first video in the background so reuploading. Other one had 191K views before deleting. - Věda a technologie
When my local Radio Shack was going out of business, they were blowing out D5 for $5 a can, and Gold for $7 a can. I loaded up.
That's some very helpful information
You and me both. I cleaned them out. Ended up with 3 cans of D5 and 2 cans of Gold.
I miss Radio Shack. They always seemed to have everything I was looking for at the time.
RIP: Radio Shack
Now that's sound investing .
I’m jealous. I have to pay $45 for a single can and I need it for a Christmas present so I can’t wait for a reasonable price 😭
Hi, what an exceptional video!!! Clearly explained and no "Fluff" fillers. Thank you for taking time to share this info sir!
Finally, after watching so many videos that imply how to use these products, you have explained and shown exactly how to clean potentiometers et. al. on any electronic component. I was looking for a video that would show me exactly how to do this. Now I can get my old multiband radios to work so much better. Your video is the standard for these products. Thank you.
Excellent Deoxit guide. Everyone sprays it, few take the time to explain it. Good Job.
Thank you for taking the time to explain the different types and the adequate use of these cleaners. Very informative en well done.
As a first time D5 user on a 50 year old Akia reel-to-reel, I found this video very helpful. Glad I found it. Thanks!
Thank you so very much!!
I’m a retired aerospace engineer with a long term appreciation of Macintosh gear. I ordered Deoxit D5 and F5 and am looking forward to correcting noisey potentiometers on my C39 preamp and MC7270.
Very good tutorial on cleaners and lubricants. I wish there was a guy like you in my hood. I like old electronics and try to maintain them. I now have some better information. I replaced an old Soundcraftsmen equalizer with a newer version because the old one was popping when switched on, possibly frying my right channel on my amp. The newer version is no where as good. I had to replace my amp with a used one as well because they no longer make them with the jacks for the equalizer. I am not happy with it either. Thanks again for your expertise. Hector
Thanks for the straightforward breakdown - much appreciated!
Perhaps the most informative video I've ever seen on CZcams. Well done!
Thank you so much for your concise explanation of these cleaners, lubricants, pots and potentiometers. I could now decide which product to use and where to use them!
I really enjoy your videos. Watched the whole series on amp build. Great learning. I am beginning to build my own now. Had over 40 years as a Tech in Refrigeration and instrumentation. So I hear the pro coming through. Keep up the great work you do.Thanks.
Can’t thank you enough! Very helpful. This is the first video of yours that I have seen. I’ve subscribed. My one bit of advice for future videos would be to have a little desk type lamp turned on, particularly when showing small parts. But again very thankful for explaining so thoroughly. I’ve got an old Fisher model RS-1080 and the volume and tape monitor switches are giving me trouble so hopefully I can fix this myself.
This video is exactly what I needed to watch. CRC is what I buy and is usually the only brand offered at the general retail level where I live. I knew that it's application was blast and clean only which it does well at but also knew it had no lubricative properties which is the back half of the cleaning/maintenance procedure. Learrning here of these of these 2 previously unknown products, Deoxit D5 and F5 with its conductive lubricants, fills in that missing gap. As always in many cases, I am not researching a particular subject, I merely happen across it but has information about something I knew I had some ignorance gaps with but knew I needed to know more about. I thank you for sharing your knowledge and the time you took to compile it. I stopped the video at 18:39 to pen this so I need to watch the rest of your video presentation, then, ......................................off to Amazon I go to order some Deoxit D5/F5. Just so You know, I hit the Subscribe button already.
Really helpful - thanks for de-mystifying the Deoxit line plus other products - I'm sure I not the only one who was confused.
Thank you, very insightful, I have the stuff, but never sure which one to use for what. I have a couple cleaning and service projects to do soon, this video has been very helpful. Thanx again.
Great job! I have an old tube radio, 50's record player, and metal detector that need Deoxit big time. After seeing your video I now have a lot better idea what I need to do. Thanks
Thank you for a proper explanation of the differences between these product lines.
Caig makes a wonderful product but their application charts really do not properly articulate the differences between them.
Never used Deoxit before (or even heard about it), so that was very helpful. Thank you.
Great video! Now I know what to use on specific parts of my electronic equipment.
What a great video! I should have learned this stuff long ago. I use these cleaners all the time but i didn't know when to use and when not to use for the right job. Thank you!
Thank you for the informative video. I recently purchased a 1973 Kenwood KR-7200. It has cracking, unclear sound after switching or turning volume up/down. I’m ordering Deoxit now and will try cleaning it this weekend.
Amazingly comprehensive and helpful. Thank you so much for this!
Great tutorial and glad I found you! A friend of mine has a very old (40yrs) Nutone Intercom with a radio and this I believe is what it needs.
Looking up Stabilant 22 brought me to your video. Cleaning and enhancing contacts on a old 88 BMW 750il car on the fuse panels and corroded computer connectors. Now I'm glad I found this vid. Hated the fast dry contact cleaners at brick and mortar stores. Needed a slow drying solution and a cheaper contact enhancer like the deoxit contact maintenance kit. Stabilant is too expensive. Thank you sir.
In my profession I lubricate locks and I like to squeeze the plastic hose tip with needle nose pliers to collapse it to be more oval and thinner to enter tighter spots (like key holes). Thanks for the overview!
Great video, man!! Thank you so much for this break down! **THUMBS UP**
Right on target about how confusing all the different products are. Thank you so much for this clarification.
Great, Thanks. I'm restoring my TASCAM 246 and your info is a great help!
Thank you Sir for your informative video. I have used QD CRC electrical cleaner as a novice in the past but not the D5's. With your video I'm able to understand the different use of them. The reason I came across your video is because I've been wondering how to thoroughly clean some kitchen appliances that roaches have used to nest and do their business. Like to clean and get rid of the smells also. thank you as it's not just an informative video but the way that you explain the details with normal speed and tempo becomes easy to understand. A lot of video has a lot of sensationalism and sometimes you can't understand their speech. JCT:)
#Drumx
Thank you for taking the time to put this together. I found it most helpful. :)
Thanks man , you educated me big time ! I only knew what Deoxit did not how to use it .But i do now . Thanks .
Deoxit saved a decades old C= computer CRT color monitor that was arcing out at the high voltage cap due to dust dirt and grime over years of use and storage. No more arcing and the picture is perfect.
Really excellent video . I have been using Motomaster Electrical contact cleaner for a decade with good results. It dries faster than D5 - but not too fast. I'm almost out so I'm going to order some actual Deoxit. One thing I found an alternative use of contact cleaner (in general) was to remove stickers from paper. It is the most effective NON STAINING method I have ever come across. I found out it was the Heptane that is found inside these contact cleaners .. that appears to be a key ingredient of Electical cleaners outside of acetone, alcohol and minearl spirits. So I'm going to order just heptane for the stickers..but it could be more expensive than buying the contact cleaner...and maybe less convenient. I have to remove 50 year old stickers off of various types of paper because I sell rare vintage LP records - and many times you find price stickers on the labels of the 45 singles..and that's probabliy the most tenuous to remove. Who else went through trying to remove stubborn stickers with lighter fluid or that orange 'gunk' remover.. both useless in so many situations. Sometimes lighter fluid would dry the glue to a concrete and make it harder to remove LOL Cool to know Heptane comes from Jack Pine.. so another family of solvents from Pine.. cool . THANKS AGAIN FOR THE EDUCATIONAL VIDEO.
Inflation... The best deal is currently 36.94 on Amazon for two pack. 1-D5 and 1-F5.
Thank you for this info. I am about to tackle cleaning a Mackie 16 x 4 mixer that sat in a dusty environment and is almost mute. I would have bathed it with the CRC product had I not learned about the importance of re-lubricating the pots and sliders.
New subscriber. I love the level of technical detail in this video!!! Thanks!
Hope you are doing well Mark! Thanks for this video.
"Hopefully you learned something today" ? Learning all you need in 30 minutes is what WAS needed....nice video...
Thanks Mark....really like the deoxit stuff
Great informative video! Very much appreciated. Your presentation was spot on! I enjoyed spending a few minutes with you and learning in the process. I have an old mixer to clean up and I'm sure you will have increased my potential for success exponentially! Thanks!
Hope you are well man! Remember ,, you must walk everyday!!
TREMENDOUSLY INFORMATIVE!!!! I watched the whole thing and learned a ton!! Many thanks from Canada!
you are really smart! I like all the names of the parts you're throwing at us. I guess the hard part is knowing where to spray. I wonder if that D5 would be good in key turning deals...like a door or even a vehicle ignition... thanks for your video!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have several amps that need cleaning, and this is a big help!
Thank you, I learned a great deal of useful information, You are making my life easier.
A great video, very informative, thank you!
Glad to see you back, very useful. What about De-ox-id III?
I work on guitars and amps and use the crc to clean then go behind with the Deoxit F5 as well. At first I was a little weary of using the crc but I have seen no issues with it attacking the carbon or plastics so I still do. Heck it is only $4 for that huge can at the autoparts stores. Mineral spirits which is in deoxit is also a lubricant. You could probably clean pots with just mineral spirits with an eye dropper and save tons.
The F5 doesn't have the same chemicals as D5. It doesn't have the specific chemical that reversed oxidisation. It's great for flushing but won't take away the oxidisation like D5 will.
@@TheMatthooks the F5 is a cleaning and lubrication solvent, which works great on old gunked up vintage pots and sliders. It leaves behind a contact lubricating film. If you need it to work on extreme oxidation I guess you could use the other stuff. I use the crc that is probably harsher and evaporates all away for the heavy lifting then go behind with a small spray of F5 to lube and create a better conductive path that will last for a long time. most of the time the F5 on its own works great too its expensive so I use it sparingly.
Fantastic video thank you. It answered all the questions I had.
Excellent presentation. Thanks for the advice
Thanks! At long last Deoxit Demystified indeed!
great video on these lubricant cleaners thanks for sharing
Fantastic video as always! Thank you
FANTASTIC video! Thanks!
I learned about contact cleaner when I was in the Army electronics. In the 70’s I found LPS Contact Cleaner at the Offshore Technology Conference. The sales rep demonstrated how to get grease stains out of your clothes. He put some grease on his coat sleeve. Then he put a handkerchief inside his coat sleeve. Then he blew ths grease through the sleeve into the handkerchiefs using LPS Contact Cleaner. Maybe you should try contact cleaner to remove the Deoxit stains. Once they set in with the laundy, it may be impossible. Contact cleaner formulation has changed over the years and it used to be similar to the dry cleaning agent, carbon tetra chloride which is not available anymore.
I don’t have any old audio stuff to worry about. My audio equipment is remote controlled. I don’t like to clean my electronics with an oil because it can attract dust and dirt. I picked your video to learn about Deoxit’s corrsion elimination properties. Good to know not to use it where oil is not wanted.
Thank you. A lot of the old cleaners are no longer available.
Nice to see you back.. I'd love to use Deoxit D5, but it's around £30.00 over here in the UK.. For £12 (total), I get a separate cleaner and lubricator . Perhaps when we are free to do a trade deal with the U.S.A , it will reduce the price of Deoxit over here ?
Nice refresher,, hope your doin well, miss your videos
Thank-you, Soo helpfull. There are many products to choose from, Deoxit is the go to product among many of my tech friends.
Thank you so much for the 30 minute video. I would love to hear from you in what are your recommendations for cleaning video game consoles and pc components like the motherboard and GPU if they are really dirty. You cracked me up with the shirt story. Thank you so much.
Fantastic!! Thank you very much for this thorough tutorial.
My Skullcandy earbuds stopped charging properly, so I cleaned the charging terminals on the charger and the earbuds themselves with Deoxit D5.Worked beautifully
If you want to get rid of the stains, turn it inside out, then put a towel under the back side. Spray from the "inside" to push the stain back out the way it came in.
Use your CRC spray, and spray the area to wet it, and then scratch the cloth with a fingernail, etc. to break up the deoxit accumulation.
Blot it with a paper towel, let it dry, and then wash it normally.
It's also a home run to be washing those shirts inside out anyway. The logos last longer.
The CRC spray is similar to what they used as a dry cleaning chemical years ago. I use it when I get grease on my clothes.
Post back if it helps!
Something I've done with the sealed pots at 28:00 is carefully drill a small hole on the front and back to spay contact cleaner. You have to saturate the entire volume so the other hole acts as a drain. Then I push air through it at low pressure and seal it up with a small piece of Kapton tape. This is risky but in the world of vintage equipment most of the time there are no replacement parts. Many people also desire to keep as many original parts as possible for aesthetics.
I have do this method with the trigger switch on my Bosch drill once a year. I love the drill but the OEM charges 50% of the drill price for a part that will just fail in another year.
Hi! Nice video, thank you! As you mentioned toward the end, some potentiometers have carbon strips inside them. In that case, probably FaderLube should be used on them, correct? Is there a way to tell what to expect inside the potentiometer without disassembling it (to decide whether to use D5 vs FaderLube)? For example, line or mic level pots on Pioneer RT-707, in case you are familiar with the machine: would I use D5 or FaderLube in that case? Thank you!
Wow! So much information. Thanks a lot.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video learned a lot electrician getting into Electronics much appreciate the knowledge
Nice video, thanks for posting. Now for my opinions. Deoxit D100 followed by Gold is my "gold standard" for contacts. It seems to reduce recurring issues. I do not use D series on pots because I have heard from individuals who have had the carbon track destroyed by it. Whether it was a weak track to start with and would have failed anyway or an incompatibility with D5 we will never know. But why take the chance? F series only for pots is my rule. Also with the exception of QD I avoid the used of sprays wherever humanly possible because they spray. Everywhere that you don't want them to. There is very rarely a spot that I can't get to with D100 in the needle tip bottle, or a tiny drop on the end of a screwdriver or dental pick. If I must spray I pack the paper towel around the target BEFORE I spray. Whatever you do, don't let the stuff get on your front panel. It may clean up OK, but it could also damage or discolor a painted surface.
I also have *D100L* in Red & Blue. Great for contacts on wafer switches.
Outstanding video. Thank you very much 😊😊
I tried some other ways people say on YT and the ol baking soda , salt and vinegar solution didn't work on for RUST on my USB connector charging cable . What did work is toliet bowl cleaning liquid . If you read the label some of them says removes rust . I tried it once letting it sit for a minute . On the outside removed much of it . Had to use again letting it sit on INSIDE of USB connection for several minutes . Rinsed it off then dried sparingly with heat gun . Now works . USB cable is how my Craftsman rechargeable headlamp charges . verry handy
Soooooo informative, who knows how many devices you saved from misconduct
Love the channel and a great video.
Thanks for the video. I've been using the bottled deoxit with dental pick brushes to clean tube sockets. No overspray. Glad to hear from you.
Craig Hollabaugh Overspray, bad for high Z circuits, yes. I have been working on older Keithley electrometers (100’s of Gohm Z) which use the Teflon isolated, silver plated switches and spring contacts. One needs to be very careful and selective about where one applies deoxit after the contacts are clean. I have been using 1 and 2mm makeup brushes to selectively apply the product.
@@materialsguy2002 Silver or rhodium plated contacts? I'd expect the latter given the zero corrosion or abrasion from use of rhodium. Silver is as soft as poo - tissue paper will easily scratch it and sure oxidises quickly.
Very helpful video... thanks!
Thank you so much for your time, knowledge and willingness to share. Could you please explain how a dielectric grease is used? I have an older vehicle and think these products and techniques would make a big difference in the electric operation of the accessories. ( Great story about the kids and laundry...how did you get them to do their own? :) )
Bought some CRC for my speed wheel on my PL-5 record player worked good. No more random speed changes.
Good info and a excellent video 👍.
Thank you for a great video. What would you recommend for cleaning up a circuit board that has some corrosion on it and something to protect it. Thanks, Cappy
Thanks for sharing all the info and knowledge, very useful. In a separate note you don’t happen to have a bass shaft for a Pioneer SX-1250? Mine got broken. Thanks in advance
Original Deoxit I used in the 90’s was originally formulated for the space shuttle, is no longer made in the percentage that it used to be. It is a cut down version of the original. The original Deoxit would molecularly bind to the metal. I don’t know if this stuff is the same.
Great information thanks Byrne
If you ever update this video, can you talk about the Deoxit mechanical/electrical grease (L260DNp). I've cleaned a few pots and seemed to lose some of the viscous or "silky" feel to the unit. Was wondering if this grease would be useful to restore some of the feel of the pot? And, where would you pit it....on the wipers or just the shaft?
Thank you for a great explanation! I was using CRC, I THINK it was number 2000 for years, for audio gear. (Dark blue can) If you spray it on your fingertips it dried in about one second and left ZERO residue. IOW, it was more for fine electronics like you are talking about instead of 480 Volt breaker switches. LOL! I am wondering what would be best for inside an older computer? Probably the Deoxit gold? If the wrong cleaner is used in one of those, it will turn into a brick! Have a great week!
I to had the same problem. I now wear an apron when I work in the shop. I will report the incidence of damaged clothing has decreased dramatically. Take care, God bless
FWIW im sure you kow this but for others in most modern recording studios the faders are optical encoders, the entire audio path is digital. Even the analog stages in high end gear use digitally controlled VCAs with digital controls.
I have one 20yo MOTU 8 channel mic pre that uses pots for gain to keep the cost down but pretty much all the other recording gear i use (MOTU, Audient, Expert Sleepers) has no analog controls (the Expert Sleepers DACs dont have controls, or a display, at all lmao). Even my old Onkyo amp has just one rotary encoder and a bunch of switches.
The cheap Holts electronic cleaner i have lists >30% Naptha and >60% isopropanol in its warnings, so basically the solvent used in deoxit. I havent looked up the CRC Quick Dry.
Ventilate well, everyone.
FWIW from what i can gather the most effective method to clean open potentiometers like faders without disassembly is to start with a 'no residue' electronic cleaner like naptha or iPA (or chrolothane if youre game) to wash, work the control to free stuff, follow with compressed air to flow debris and solvent free, and then fader lubricant (Either the Dow-Corning Penny and Giles recommend or whatever your manufacturer recommends if you can find some, or the ubiquitous deoxit F series).
I've been a tech for a long time, gotta clean my own out of production penny and giles motorfaders and i have never in my life been so stressed cleaning a contact lmao.
Thank you for the information. 🤘🏼
Re-uploaded? I saw a new Blueglow video and got all excited! Hope you are doing well. Looking forward to fall when things settle down for you.
Me too!
The problem with the Deoxit D5(red) is that it eats away at the carbon in the contacts, but the Deoxit F5(green) will not damage the carbon contacts. They do not warn you of this anywhere in their labeling.
I think the video should be revised to discuss this issue because it is of vital importance!
Thanks for your informative video
Thank you for doing this video
A good review of how to use it, thanks.
Hope you are doing well.
Cheers,
Hello! Thanks for the videos! Can you tell me if I need the D5 or F5 for these two problems (on Mackie Onyx-i mixers): 1) Noisy pots and 2) Noisy/Bad contact switches. The pots have very little noise but the switches (mute, mostly) sometimes keep one side of the pan mute. Thanks!!!
Thanks for informative video. Someone made a video concerned that Caig had changed the spray container from a separate straw to a permanent folding top with straw attached and no control over amount coming out of the straw. Now in 2024 is this a problem?
Thanks for all the info! do you think i could use the standard deoxit d5 on my gold instrument cable plugs or dhould i buy the g5? thanks again!
very informative, thank you
I stumbled onto your video. Thank you as it is very informative. I purchased Deoxit D5 because the plug between my door jam and door has multiple small round pins that have a greenish tint to them. I sprayed the product and reseated the plug multiple times to get it clean on several occasions but the greenish tint (corrosion) is still there and it’s affecting (I think) my door locks. Do you have any suggestions on a product that will remove this greenish tint off of the pins of the plug? Thank you for a great video.
OK, you kind of answered my question right at the end. I was thinking of using an isopropyl alcohol spray or CRC QD Cleaner first because they're relatively cheap and would be used as a first "flush" of a pot or open contact. Then I can understand why you would use DeOxit D5 to add a little different cleaning chemical and a lubricant. But, why wouldn't you use the Max Pro lube? Is that only for electrical connections that "snap" together rather than potentiometers?
amazon picked up a large can Deoxit red can D5 I have 5 Receivers and 2 older ones are having volume problems I have one receiver with static coming for speakers I have replaced all speaker wire still have static I will open it and clean Thanks its nice to know what to use and how !
CRC QD Contact Cleaner and use Deoxit Fader F5 afterward seems the best way to go?