Silence those scratchy knobs and sliders with CAIG Laboratories DeoxIT Fader F5 Fader Lubricant! Check it out at Sweetwater 👉 www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FaderLubeS--caig-laboratories-f5s-h6-caig-deoxit-faderlube-5-percent-spray-5-oz/?CZcams&Referral&FP0vSJexFQ_PC
Deoxit f5 is awesome. I recently picked up an alesis andromeda a6 that had jumpy pots. Opened it up, deoxit on all 70+ pots, back together and now it’s working perfectly.
Thanks! I was thinking that I would need to get some spray or even open my (ancient) Casio keyboard, but moving the volume slider back and forth for about 30 seconds got rid of the (very bad) scratchiness.
...sometimes the sounds are digital...i dont know why....when using Arturia keylab mk2 88 with Ableton Live 12...... but there were only 3 or 4 incidents......these have to be differentiated from the real physical ones....
I have been working on restoring a negelect yamaha mixing console that came out of storage. Would it hurt to use some d5 on a fader slide for the initial cleaning, with a few drops f100 after the cleaning? Or do i just use f5 for the cleaning?
What about dead keys? Could that be just a quick spray in and around the key or would I need to take it apart? I’m talking about a key step pro. One key isn’t either sending midi or it’s got dust or something.
Hi Tiger Arcade. Almost always, a dead key happens because there's some contaminant between the rubber dome underneath the key and the gold circuit board pad directly under that dome. -_Daniel_
@@sweetwater I really appreciate that. I will have to take it apart and try cleaning it then. Thank you for responding to me. Love your knowledge and passion.
New sliders have a special grease to slide smoothly. Contact cleaner will remove not only dust but also the special grease and this is not good. The slider will not slide smoothly and after a long period, will probably be broken forever. As I understand, the Deoxit Fader product will also leave a grease in the slider which is fine.
@@musicbinderpro8903 it removes the grease actually aswell, but I have only used f5, I still haven’t tried the needle nose f100l, the f5 by itself make the pot or slider feel like garbage afterwards and grease that make the pot give resistance will be flushed out, I’m keen to see what the f1000l does for the feeling but I would assume it would just make it smoother but it would still be loose from not having the grease
This will wash out the lubricant and after prolonged use the conductive material will wear out. You need to put faderlube in all the pots or sliders you have cleaned or they’ll wear out in no time. I’ve learned this the hard way
I have two eurorack modules with scratchy cutoff freq knobs, I'm not sure if they are open or closed. One doesn't have holes on the sides. Is there a way to add lubricant to these? I've looked into this recently and thought it was possible to somehow add drops to the shaft? But i'm not so sure now. It's so annoying.
Use Deoxit D5 to clean it and Deoxit F5 Faderlube to lubricate. But you can turn every knob for hours...they are all self cleaning. But only to a degree.
Deoxit makes great products but there is a lot of confusion and lack of clarity how to use them. The F5 is the proper choice for pots and faders while their non-lubricated sprays should be used on conections like plugs and jacks. I've seen people take things completely apart and use the non-lubricated cleaners on pots and faders and then add fader grease to them but just using the cleaner alone is a bad idea. If I was doing such a job I would still use the F5 for cleaning as it claims to be safe on plastic and carbon parts. If you are not doing the full job of disassembly and rebuilding things then just use the F5. I see they have another product called F100L that seems like it has more or a heavier lubricant than the F5. Might be a good for sticky faders that can't be disassembled or ones that can but you don't want to go that far. I haven't used this one but maybe I should give it a try on my old Mackie.
What about the problem of the cleaning agent you use getting rid of the damping (resistance) grease used in the center of some pots to give smooth resistance feel for accuracy. I mean like the feel of the big volume wheel of a home amplifier or the dials on the line 6 pods or the pots on large mixing boards? Using too much deoxit will dissolve this resistance grease around the shaft and bushings of the pot and could result in a completely zero resistance free rotating feel that moves not like the pot on a mixing board but like a pot on a stratocaster. Resistance gone. Now your only choices are replace the pot anyway or disassemble the pot and reapply dampening grease to the base of the shaft before putting the pot back together. No one doing videos about potentiometer maintenance ever mentions this potential problem. People always find out the hard way then complain on forums about it when it's too late.
Hi Ferenc Lucas. The first time I mention this exact point is @ 2:23 (in the chapter called: "Don't Use Contact Cleaner on Faders"). @ 2:49 I suggest DeoxIT Fader Cleaner for this very reason. @ 4:06 I suggest a Fader Lubricant to prevent the problems you were describing. -_Daniel_
What would be good to clean a synth? The spray would also get into the CV inputs? Is there anything that would be ok? Not the normal „keyboard cleaning compressed air“? Because that has some stuff in it, it‘s not just pure air.
No it doesn't. It's a petroleum product, and mostly oil. It might work to unstick them once but they will just get filled with dirt and dust even faster the next time, and wear them out faster if not just destroy them. It also will destroy all the plastics. Anyone who uses WD40 on electronic equipment doesn't know what they're doing.
@@twizz420 Right On! You're absolutely right go ahead & preach my friend. I couldn't have said it better myself. I'd also advise anyone against using WD-40 on their electronic gear. However if they insist on thinking it's the right product to use then go ahead, let em' do what they do. But here's my number when it ends up causing them bigger problems to fix. Like Forrest Gump once said, "Stoopid is as stoopid does." 😂😜🤣 +Peace & Rock n' Roll 4 Your Soul My Friend+ 🤘😉🤘
@@mattcollier3039 One year is hardly a test. I'm talking long-term. If you plan on keeping your equipment working for more than 5-10 years then WD-40 or any other petroleum-based product is not the way to go. It's just a fact.
Silence those scratchy knobs and sliders with CAIG Laboratories DeoxIT Fader F5 Fader Lubricant! Check it out at Sweetwater 👉 www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FaderLubeS--caig-laboratories-f5s-h6-caig-deoxit-faderlube-5-percent-spray-5-oz/?CZcams&Referral&FP0vSJexFQ_PC
No way! Omg y’all have perfect timing! I literally just started having this problem and here you are saving the day once again!
Serendipity
That stuff is gold! I've been using on all sorts of electronics for decades. It just works, use the right one for the right application is all.
Method #1 just saved me 30 bucks! Thank you.
😍
I thought you were just a synth god, but today I learned you're also a synth maintenance god. Ramen!
Deoxit f5 is awesome. I recently picked up an alesis andromeda a6 that had jumpy pots. Opened it up, deoxit on all 70+ pots, back together and now it’s working perfectly.
That must have set the all time record for amount of pots to clean on one device! The Andromeda is awesome!
Wow what a gem!
Daniel Fisher, the synth whisperer
Thanks! I was thinking that I would need to get some spray or even open my (ancient) Casio keyboard, but moving the volume slider back and forth for about 30 seconds got rid of the (very bad) scratchiness.
Sensacional trabajo
¡Gracias! -_Daniel_
...sometimes the sounds are digital...i dont know why....when using Arturia keylab mk2 88 with Ableton Live 12...... but there were only 3 or 4 incidents......these have to be differentiated from the real physical ones....
I have been working on restoring a negelect yamaha mixing console that came out of storage. Would it hurt to use some d5 on a fader slide for the initial cleaning, with a few drops f100 after the cleaning? Or do i just use f5 for the cleaning?
What about dead keys? Could that be just a quick spray in and around the key or would I need to take it apart? I’m talking about a key step pro. One key isn’t either sending midi or it’s got dust or something.
Hi Tiger Arcade. Almost always, a dead key happens because there's some contaminant between the rubber dome underneath the key and the gold circuit board pad directly under that dome. -_Daniel_
@@sweetwater I really appreciate that. I will have to take it apart and try cleaning it then. Thank you for responding to me. Love your knowledge and passion.
Is there a way to confirm that your controllers have plastic contacts versus metal contacts (short of contacting the manufacture)?
The deoxit F100 Returns the feeling of a harder movement and not so loose after cleaning?
You only need D5 and F5...for most applications.
I use contact cleaner ..... should I switch?
New sliders have a special grease to slide smoothly. Contact cleaner will remove not only dust but also the special grease and this is not good. The slider will not slide smoothly and after a long period, will probably be broken forever. As I understand, the Deoxit Fader product will also leave a grease in the slider which is fine.
@@musicbinderpro8903 it removes the grease actually aswell, but I have only used f5, I still haven’t tried the needle nose f100l, the f5 by itself make the pot or slider feel like garbage afterwards and grease that make the pot give resistance will be flushed out, I’m keen to see what the f1000l does for the feeling but I would assume it would just make it smoother but it would still be loose from not having the grease
This will wash out the lubricant and after prolonged use the conductive material will wear out. You need to put faderlube in all the pots or sliders you have cleaned or they’ll wear out in no time. I’ve learned this the hard way
I have two eurorack modules with scratchy cutoff freq knobs, I'm not sure if they are open or closed. One doesn't have holes on the sides. Is there a way to add lubricant to these? I've looked into this recently and thought it was possible to somehow add drops to the shaft? But i'm not so sure now. It's so annoying.
Use Deoxit D5 to clean it and Deoxit F5 Faderlube to lubricate. But you can turn every knob for hours...they are all self cleaning. But only to a degree.
So only the Deoxit Fader spray should ever be used on guitar knobs and amp knobs? This is news to me! Advice elsewhere suggested D100.
Deoxit makes great products but there is a lot of confusion and lack of clarity how to use them.
The F5 is the proper choice for pots and faders while their non-lubricated sprays should be used on conections like plugs and jacks.
I've seen people take things completely apart and use the non-lubricated cleaners on pots and faders and then add fader grease to them but just using the cleaner alone is a bad idea. If I was doing such a job I would still use the F5 for cleaning as it claims to be safe on plastic and carbon parts.
If you are not doing the full job of disassembly and rebuilding things then just use the F5.
I see they have another product called F100L that seems like it has more or a heavier lubricant than the F5. Might be a good for sticky faders that can't be disassembled or ones that can but you don't want to go that far. I haven't used this one but maybe I should give it a try on my old Mackie.
@@7171jay See my StewMac reference; they say D5 is the proper choice.
What about the problem of the cleaning agent you use getting rid of the damping (resistance) grease used in the center of some pots to give smooth resistance feel for accuracy. I mean like the feel of the big volume wheel of a home amplifier or the dials on the line 6 pods or the pots on large mixing boards? Using too much deoxit will dissolve this resistance grease around the shaft and bushings of the pot and could result in a completely zero resistance free rotating feel that moves not like the pot on a mixing board but like a pot on a stratocaster. Resistance gone. Now your only choices are replace the pot anyway or disassemble the pot and reapply dampening grease to the base of the shaft before putting the pot back together. No one doing videos about potentiometer maintenance ever mentions this potential problem. People always find out the hard way then complain on forums about it when it's too late.
Hi Ferenc Lucas. The first time I mention this exact point is @ 2:23 (in the chapter called: "Don't Use Contact Cleaner on Faders"). @ 2:49 I suggest DeoxIT Fader Cleaner for this very reason. @ 4:06 I suggest a Fader Lubricant to prevent the problems you were describing.
-_Daniel_
F5 fader cleaner just ruined my yamaha ge30 equalizers faders. They are basically unusable now. 2 quick sprays is all it took. F5 is garbage.
What would be good to clean a synth? The spray would also get into the CV inputs? Is there anything that would be ok? Not the normal „keyboard cleaning compressed air“? Because that has some stuff in it, it‘s not just pure air.
completely jumped over how the majority of folks do pots.
Do not spray anything directly into there! It will wash out the lubricant!
This has lubricant built in
WD 40 works well
No it doesn't. It's a petroleum product, and mostly oil. It might work to unstick them once but they will just get filled with dirt and dust even faster the next time, and wear them out faster if not just destroy them. It also will destroy all the plastics. Anyone who uses WD40 on electronic equipment doesn't know what they're doing.
@@twizz420 I used to to bring back a 16 channel mixer. It’s been a year now and no issues whatsoever.
@@twizz420 Right On! You're absolutely right go ahead & preach my friend. I couldn't have said it better myself. I'd also advise anyone against using WD-40 on their electronic gear. However if they insist on thinking it's the right product to use then go ahead, let em' do what they do. But here's my number when it ends up causing them bigger problems to fix. Like Forrest Gump once said, "Stoopid is as stoopid does." 😂😜🤣 +Peace & Rock n' Roll 4 Your Soul My Friend+ 🤘😉🤘
@@mattcollier3039 One year is hardly a test. I'm talking long-term. If you plan on keeping your equipment working for more than 5-10 years then WD-40 or any other petroleum-based product is not the way to go. It's just a fact.