First tries / Perfecto Mundo
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- čas přidán 27. 10. 2020
- Perfecto Mundo 9b+ is a route in Margalef, Catalonia, Spain. It was bolted by Chris Sharma, first ascended by Alex Megos in 2018. It has received repetitions by Stefano Ghisolfi and Jakob Schubert. The following video shows me on my first two days of working out this route, getting to know its intricacies and its massive endurance. The route is… perfect, indeed! It is massive and it has a lot of hard moves in a row with very little rest in between. It still feels very intimidating, yet it feels possible.
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STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED & EDITED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
LACO KORBEL
ADAM LIGOCKI
PRODUCTION
KATEŘINA KUŘÁTKOVÁ
JAKUB PÍNA
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EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
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#rockclimbing #onthego #perfectomundo #margalef #spain #climbing - Sport
An unusual warm up for the wideboyz cellar
Usual warm up for Bibliographie?
yeah rather weird. but we all know thats what hes going for
IMHO he has to do first perfecto mundo, than the 9a cellar crack and after that he's warm for Bibliographie I think. ;)
why would he go to the wideboyz cellar?
He would find a kneebar there too.
The most feared phrase for those engaged in high end first ascents - "Adam found a kneebar"
I can’t think of another climber that is this honest about their mental process, about what intimidates them and what they perceive their weaknesses to be. Props to Adam.
Alex Megos also talks about his fears in Rotpunkt. They both are awesome!
Wow, "honest about their mental process" - riveting.
Sasha DiGiulian had a video on her CZcams channel awhile back where she wore a microphone on her way up a climb and talked through all her thoughts and movements as she climbed.
Dave MacLeod had a whole series right now about mental aspects of climbing and how to improve.
Rockentry goes through how he approaches each route.
I feel most climbers on CZcams share their thoughts in at least a few videos, perhaps not all, but at least on occasion.
I agree with what you're trying to say. It's awesome he expresses mad respect for what Megos first accomplished here and puts in perspective the challenge he's up against.
The guys who are the best in the world don't have to posture cause they know they are the best, which is why you get stark honesty from Megos, Ondra, and Honnold. They are all at the very peak of what they do
I split a finger: there goes the week
Adam splits a finger: I have 22 hours
He's got those split recovery times down to the hour! Haha
Pretty sure he has a hyperbaric chamber in the van. Sort that split finger in no time.
I don't even climb hard enough to split a finger :-)
You just gotta climb through it lmao
Absolutely no one:
Adam: There is a knee bar!
Downgrade to 9b? 😁
Actually Jakob Schubert suggested 9B so maybe Adam does too
@@eloimauri6235 Schubert seems to downgrade every second route he climbed xD
I love how candid this episode felt
I am unreasonably hyped for this "series"!
I'd like to claim you're very reasonably unreasonably hyped for this series, as am I ;)
So stoked. They've done an excellent job building this up.
6:27 - the crux move.. and Adam sticks it amazingly. Stefano - feet cut loose. Jakob - opening up and fighting it a lot... I was really curious how Adam will look in that move, knowing he doesn't like pockets... but wow. Also nice he admited he was avoiding the route, for being scared of monos :D. And that kneebar... looks insane, I'm guessing one week later he will spend there 15 seconds no problem :D.
Ondra is the only one who is tall enough to stick it without losing the left foot.
@@DonQuiKong Schubert didnt cut loose on the send try.
@@acdc1767 But he did lose the left foot, just kept the right foot on.
@@MOXCRunner1 exactly, adam has that extra reach. He looks very strong tho on the moves
It looks like the camera was tilted (look at the horizon and the anchors) - it makes it look more vertical and less overhang.
I don't care what anyone says about Adam, he's admitting that he has a weakness which is a hard thing to do and he's committed to improving which is also very impressive
.....and then he hikes the crux on the first morning.....
Adam you have an amazing attitude. You are a great role model, a genuine guy, an amazing climber. And these video get us all kinda addicted. This is sport, this is talent, this is inspiration.
The b roll and music before Adam starts talking about the route while watching footage on his phone made Margalef look like some heavenly place. Pretty cool cuts!
Felt like he arrived at a climbers monastery or something.
Absolutely amazing how Adam walks through the crux moves already after a couple of tries. Super excited for the next updates 💪
6:04 : Adam without curls😂😂
at first i thought its Dave Graham
I still can’t believe these videos are free
I feel like I'm leaving this comment with every video, but I can't help myself. I feel so lucky to have this intimate look into Adam's life and mind. It's particularly special sharing his process with Perfecto Mundo because it's such an intimidating and high profile challenge.
I can't even say how excited I am about this series! Every shot is so beautiful, and the vibe is perfect. It's watching a professional ply his craft on a serious challenge, and there is something utterly satisfying about that.
He just walked up the crux😳
When you have time could you talk about your team? Sick climbing man, cant wait to see more!!
Nice filming ... climbing, just with the sound of the wind ... it's perfect!
Ayyy I’ve always wanted to see Adam on this line. So sick!!! Bibliography next?
@Arran McEvoy because obviously he has a schedule, training plans, climbing plans, etc, he can't just jump off his schedule in order to immediately try hard routes here and there when somebody occasionally climbed them
@@mrmoorash yeah but it's been 3 years now and he hadn't tried it yet. He says why in the video and it has nothing to do with training plans. The route just isnt his typical style and so he felt kinda intimidated, nothing wrong with that.
@@mrmoorash well I mean it’s not just some hard route that somebody climbed, it’s the best contender for the only other climb with the grade of 9c. It also just so happens that it was climbed by Alex Megos, someone who many consider the second best climber in the world
@@buster3698 right, and therefore it will probably be a very long, possibly multi-year project. The route's not going anywhere. It's obviously very hard, I don't see why anyone would go to another country just to confirm that this is actually the case.
But I feel like @Arran McEvoy was talking about Perfecto Mundo, and @mrmoorash was talking about Bibliography. It's confusing because they were both climbed by Megos.
@@jordivermeulen2519 And both are in Megos' style, so the considerations Ondra made on this one still probably apply to Bybliography, even more so since it's harder. This one could actually be a good introduction to Bybliography from this point of view,
This vlog goes from strength to strength. As soon as I see a new one I watch it immediately. The more I get to know Adam the more I like him and am proud to have him as an ambassador of our sport. ✅🦾
The quality of the video is insane! Love it!
Next level editing
Amazing production quality, it really is feeling like I am watching a movie! Huge respect to AO-Team for the storytelling, thank you! Good luck and conditions to you Adam :)
Dam that crux move looked so easy for him.
I was about to say... goddam
probably beacause he is tall and he didn't lose the foot
At what time is the crux?
6:27
yep.. cruised it
What an incredible start to this climb. Hyped to see the next try.
Dear Adam & Team - I LOVE this projecting style update vid!!
P.S. Adam, please don't downgrade because of a kneebar!
Happy Sending!
Luke
Such an amazing route. Super inspiring and I can't wait to see you send this. Best of luck!🤙
Yes!! Perfecto Mundo! Allez Adam!
Words cannot describe how much I love these videos
So happy for this series! Keep them coming!
I checked 3 times if it was the crux move, because seemed too easy.
Come on Adam!!! You are the man of the hour. Go for it dude!!!
Keep them coming. These are the absolute best
the eerie music and the shots with the wind in the trees and all are fucking beautiful
DANG! I just started climbing but I have already made some pretty good progress and I really do look up to you. Keep crushing it!
Love this format of videos!
Giving us that insight of what it really is/takes to be a pro climber, is really motivating to try harder on our personal projects. Thanks Adam you're inspiring and you deserve it!
Looking so mature here! A pleasure watching this!!
I wish i could see silence doing this style of video,, its so amazing
Seeing Adam drive was weird, I figured he just climbed everywhere 😂
So cool to see Adam being honest and telling things that intimidates him! He seems like a super hero so its quite interesting to see this human part of him :) Great video, Adam and team!
Wonderful footage as usual Team AO!
Adamovi drzime palce v dokonalom svete! :)
This is awesome. I just earned my Top-Rope badge at my local climbing gym and its been very fun. Great video as always Adam.
This is such a beautifully edited video. Keep em coming!
8:30 - “there is a kneebar”
Adam can find kneebars anywhere!
I like how you established the area and the route. It truly is a perfecto mundo. Next level climbing. Counting the hours for the next try :P
Rumors say Adam can recover split fingers while resting in a kneebar 😎
Nice ! Can’t wait to see more !
Love the new video style!
Thank you for taking us along. Pushing yourself to make your dream come true in this not so 'perfecto mundo' these days (caused by ourselves btw) is inspiring 🙏✌
That slackline above the crag 😯
We put the High line with my girlfriend ;)
@@aimehugo5755 How long, what height? Looks crazy cool ;) Thanks for the reply ;)
This is just... genially filmed...
looking big Adam!
i really like the new format ☺
5:08 was not expecting the HL1 marine.
Amazing video
this month is the first time i've ever heard/watched rock climbing and im addicted , i have binge watched almost every video of Adam and i recently started watching also a climbing Anime :P keep up the good work Adam im loving these videos
Watch megos too they have different styles so it's interesting to see the contrast. It's like a maestro (adam) vs tank (megos. Also would like to clarify both have power and both are technical just what stands out to me is all
now you just have to start too!
Go climb! It's just as fun on the wall :D
which anime just by curiosity?
@@felipe2fp Iwa-Kakeru! Climbing Girls
The music and composition of the first few clips really blew me away. Who is making these?! They deserve some massive props.
Well done on a great first burn also Adam!
Dope! You got this!
Awesome down to earth close up video! I love this format and cant wait to see more!
If y'all want to make it even better, here some suggestions:
- show a small graph from a zoomed out view where the route exactly goes, maybe even some bits of info on Margalef as a whole so that one gets a bit more perspective
- Really show uncut from bottom on his VERY FIRST TRY that would be so interesting to me.
- An angle from his point of view looking at the crux section explaining what makes it dificult or just visualizing it similar to other videos from the series by circling the holds would be awesome!
Just rambling along here i know theres budgets and time constraints but hey ;)
...thanks for your suggestions. We are working hard to bring you more...
Strong as always 💪
Perfecto mundooooo
I think that in a week Adam will close it.
He's a monster
Maiby 2 weeks
really nice video
Yaassss let's go Adam!
Adam Ondra is definitely staying in the best AirBnB in Margalef ;-) good memories of that place
Good luck!
finally a new video!
Se lo ha meado el crux. Que bicharaco Adam.
Not enough Adam screams to send it, scream more on next attempts and you've got it!
Super! To je náš český spiderman :-)
Great video as always, good climbing and good filming/editing!
I wonder if after you are finished with Perfecto Mundo, you could possibly make a video about home training especially focusing climbing endurance! Facing another lockdown I bet a lot of your climbing community that doesn't have a home gym wants to stay fit for lead over the time the gyms are closed and would love some tips by one of the greatest climbers on earth!
Edit: If some of you fellow other climbers might have some tips I would appreciate them as well, thanks!
I'm so relieved for Alex that he didn't flash that route lol
Not saying technical wise he isn't the better climber but your really thought he was going to flash this lol. His words I was intimidated by it if the "best climber " is intimidated it's for a reason lol
@@noahjeffery5670 nah bro of course he wouldnt flash that. but do you know this irrational anxiety that rises within you if someone "tests" something that was a big achievement for yourself?
@@D2xJFilms ok just making sure your not some crazy fan boy I've talked to a couple so far. There both great climbers they climb a hell of lot differently so one isn't going to really favour the other not a lot of people seem to get that. Yeah I get the anxiety part of it I'm sure Alex is feeling the same thing about biblographie
Race is in to flash 8C boulder and I reckon that he is ready for it.
The image looks very good! big respect for your camera team!
I was also wondering what camera and lenses are you shooting on! it'd be interesting to see what lies behind the making of your videos !!
Hope to see you on top of Perfecto Mundo very soon !!
Climbers: Yeah let‘s see hoe the project goes, were the crux is etc.
Adam: Ok i‘ll find a knew bar!
That’s it 🔥
I have a question what do you think about the situation in the Franken Jura with Alex Megos and Markus Bock? Did you hear about it and what is your opinion on this? Like your videos and what you do for the sport would also love to see a video with you and Alex Megos and with Magnus Midtbo. Keep going and keep pushing.💪🏻 Best wishes from Munich 👋🏻
What happened?
that guy Bock is like the karen male in climbing
@@darraghobrien1028 he says the new route is to close to his precious old route so he decided to take the bolts down
@@ricardorocco1990 oh damn that's bad form
@@darraghobrien1028 Julian Söhnlein recently bolted and Megos first climbed route called The Last Dance in the Franken Jura. It was close to another route, from 1993, by Michael Ordnung Burn for you 8c (FA - Markus Bock). So Ordnung made ordnung and chopped off the bolts of the new route, because in his opinion the bolts were too close to the old route, therefore making it less interesting and turning the rock into a climbing gym or whatever. Then Megos got mad. Ordnung/Bock got mad. And their been dissing each other ever since :D. In my point of view, the crucial point is that "There should always be communication, before taking action."... First Megos should have asked the one who bolted the route and the FA, if it is okay. Second, if that happened, Ordnung should have called Megos and talk about it. But instead of it, we have a super proud Nah fuck you - nah fuck you - nah fuck you deadlock. And so I do not see it as much as a climbing specific problem, more like a human a communication problem. And if it should have happy ending, somebody would have to swallow their pride.
Nice ❤️
sick!
I'm baffled at the washing machine in the kitchen cabinets
that's standard in Spain (and much of Europe) - either in the kitchen or the bathroom
Adam strong as F*"&!
Enormous work from the editors again !
little bit of Terrence Malick atmosphere in some shots, no ?
Was there ever a part 2 to this video??
Can someone please tell me the name of the outro song. Thanks:)
Un tío que encadena 8c+ o 9a a vista tiene unos proyectos por encima del resto de mortales, en unos días leeremos la noticia que habrá encadenado Perfecto mundo
How can a split heal within 22 hours? I thought it takes like 3 or more days?
Holly master :o
Is there aby fotage of Megos sending biblio?
margalef is so beautiful...
Shazam doesn't know the music at the end ? Any idea ?
Could you please add the automatic subtitles ? Cause I’m deaf so it help me a lot to understand what Adam is saying.
The video was awesome ! Hope you will read this.
Closed captions are available! Anyway they speach czech for most of the film, so I rely on the English closed captions too. (:
Im from a country where it is hot all year long(south east asia), when I see adam wore all those jackets i was just wondering is it really cold?
8:29 me, explaining 5.9 beta to the gang after watching an Adam Ondra video
Hi Adam,
Nice video, but i have a doubt that doesn´t let me sleep.
How are the carabiners attached to the wall before climbing?
Do you attach them while you are climbing?
Is there someone better than you who has climbed it before?
Do you place them with a drone?
(Although surely is not like that, it would be fun if you do it in a video)
Do a video with Magnus!!!!
Adam "where is the kneebar" Ondra
Go!
Se aproxima un 10a??
YES
What's the name of the first song at min 3:30?
Adam, what do you use to recover the skin in your hands? You can do a video on that.
slap on some super glue and go back on the wall!
@@TornadoGod1 nice
Catalunya is so beautiful bruh
At 5:22 there’s a fait scream that will probably be overpowered by ondras war cry