I discovered how little pressure a sharp HSS tool exerts while roughing a shaft. For some reason I bumped the tool between cuts and found I had forgotten to tighten it in its holder! Good teaching video, thanks Max.
Nice work Max. Shows how a few adjustments and some TLC you can keep a machine performing. I am going to do this to my shop lathe. Thanks for the education. I think that the final .0005 could be the live center. Still very good tolerance for a lathe. Thanks for the great content, EM.
Really surprising to see the amount of deflection involved, timely reminder to pay great attention to detail at each stage of set-up and executions. Thanks Max for a really interesting video. It's a thumbs-up and a sub from me.
G’day Max. You’re a cut above the rest. Good educational video, thanks. The turn the bar around after zeroing the dial gauge to fast check the tail stock is something I don’t think I’ve seen before, thanks. Cheers Peter
Excellent video Max. Really well explained and demonstrated, your lathe is in decent nick to produce these results, this also qualifies the lack of wear on your bed. Having done all this myself a few times, I have a good idea how time consuming this process really is, you did very well squashing it into a short video without losing any of the key info. Well done. Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon . I was not going to film it , but did anyway , a pain in the ass in the middle of a job . It was heavily edited & totally unplanned ! Cheers .
Great video mate! Had no idea the head stock could be adjusted like that and makes sense on mine after I was chasing it around all over the place with shims!
Your lathe is very similar to my machine - interesting to see how you tweak it into shape. Mine hopefully won't need to move for a very long time after the shop here is finished, and I need to check the headstock alignment and spindle bearings as it is recommissioned. Thanks for showing how you do it!
G’day Max. I got caught on the Colchester funnily enough. Was using it unlevelled on my slanting concrete floor. Mine turned an internal ice cream 🍦 cone when boring 4”. Had me stumped, until I checked the level 🤦♂️. Cheers 🍻. Aaron
Hi Max, You are coorect about the CNMG style insert being stronger than the TNMG style. Its simple as the TNMG has 60 degree included angle corner where as the CNMG has 80 degree inclduded angle along with greater support behind the cutting edge. That what makes it stronger. Enjoyed your clip on adjustment and I could see exactly where you were going. The big thing I have found when making these sorts of adjustments is to move small amounts with the screws. Cheers Ian New Zealand
It's very satisfying getting the twist out of the bed and getting the headstock and tailstock lined up. My lathe bed bolts to a steel box cabinet similar to yours, and the cabinet sits on concrete, with levelling feet I made. I found that the cabinet was too rigid for the combined weight (440kg) and instead of the levelling feet twisting the bed, it just allowed the whole lot to rock. So to solve this, I shimmed between the lathe bed, and the cabinet, this straightened out the bed, and let me put even pressure on each foot on the floor. It was only a bees dick out of parallel, but it's nice seeing the bubble central on both ends of the bed. Thanks for the video Max, great info, particularly the reminder about tool cutting pressure and workpiece toughness throwing your diameters off. Cheers, Craig
And cheap ! There is no way i am buying a test bar for my 540 x 2000 & 600 x 3000 lathes ! Thanks Cam . I have your sticker in the next video , Cheers .
Test bar's are not cheap for a good one that will do the same thing as a bit of scrap steel . They do have their uses in some set up work though . My other lathes are 2m and 3m between centres so a test bar would not be practical . Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Just an idea Max, could you set up a test pipe for the bigger lathes instead of a test bar? Just so you don't waste as much material, and also make it not deflect under its own weight as much.
Great video showing differentl techniques on removing the taper and expecially how different metals produced different results. Enjoyed watching learnt some more facts. Tony
Did you find you had to slacken the back bolts fully too, or just really mess with the front ones? Would it be worth investing in a test bar or just turn a piece or 36 odd mm like you have?
@@rexemprojectiles2902 From memory i think i may have had only one slackened off & the other rear just nipped lightly . You can use test bars , i generally don't as i don't own one ! Any bit of suitable scrap can give the same results .
I've got the same lathe and base. I have no problem levelling the lathe and getting any twist out of the bed using jacking screws in the cabinet. There are problems with compensating for twist by turning the head.
You find me today debating living with a sub-par wooden bench and spending the recently-doubled price for steel for a proper one, for this exact reason.
When i finish the new shop , i will build a solid base for it . The way it should be built ! My little 10K Southbend sits on a wooden top bench 2'' thick with a heavy angle iron & 4'' pipe frame .
@@swanvalleymachineshopThat's about what I'd be happy with for my little machines but the price of wood products has gone bananas here too. I look forward to seeing how your new shop comes together.
I have a 16mm one but don't use it ! I will probably pick up a 25mm one later for the other lathes . I am too used to a tnmg as it gives better access to tight spots . The other 4 edges on the cnmg i use in another tool holder . 👍
Well you got to subscribe 😁😂but I'm a nut for machining. Frikin love it so what I've seen so far. I'll be watching a crap load of your vids by look of it. 😁👍👍 I can watch you ole boys all day .love picking up the lil tricks. Great stuff Sir. Thanks for opportunity.
That was a really useful tutorial. Thanks, Max. I remember spending half a day trying to get my lathe leveled. I have hesitated to look at it since and I know I should. Cheers.
The carriage way wipers do that , they are removed regularly for inspection . Still have to add them to the tailstock as they are not fitted from factory . If anything was under the tailstock it can be felt straight away .
A bit of a "Woof" in it!, I assume that's Aussie for "Dog Leg" !!!!. Great demo on headstock alignment Max. Thanks for sharing, hope it's not too cold down there?. Best regards John.
You might have a chance if you choose a small nose radius 0.4mm or less, take a minimum depth of cut roughly the same as the nose radius, use good insert geometry (positive rather than negative and with a high rake) and set a high feed.
The depth of cut has to be deep enough for the chip breaker to work regardless of the nose radius . A small lathe you will have best results with a small nose radius so you have less depth before the chip breaker comes into play . If a Koala falls out of a tree and misses you it's just a Koala , if it hits you it's a Drop Bear !!!
Great info !! I’ll save this one for sure . How much flex does your machine have if you just lean on it with your hands ? Say for example you have the indicator on the bar and check the chuck is tight ...? Mine flexes an alarming amount
Question re the 960B, all the references I can find talk 12mm tool height but my newly acquired machine measures 16mm to dead center? I'd much rather run 16mm tools.
They will take 16mm no worries , depending on your tool holder set up . Maybe the original solid tool post is set up for 12mm . I use mainly 3/4 & 20mm tooling as it will fit my other lathes , but i did have to machine a fraction off the bottom surface .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Thanks for that, the story from H&F was that tool post centre heights vary from 15-16mm on the 960 from the factory so they list as being a 12mm, with packing. Seems an excessive tolerance for what's marketed as a "precision", "toolroom quality" machine.
Gidday Max, good explanation of alignment. I hadn't thought of end for ending the bar but should have as it's the same for silly grinding, doooh. Your opinion on the Gator chuck? Contemplating a Gator 6 Jaw set tru...
That's right it is , to re set the table . The Gator chuck i have found excellent . A set true one would be the best set up . It's worth getting the soft jaws for them as well . Cheers .
The base is not solid enough & you would only flex the base . It needs to be a lot more solid & bolted to the concrete floor , as it will be in the new shop . Cheers .
Pardon my ignorance but could you make the same correction grinding the chuck jaws? Understand head stock adjustment is much quicker. I’m off to check mine!
@@swanvalleymachineshop interesting. I know grinding the inside of the jaws corrects run out, but I would have thought it would also correct the skew since you are moving the grinder in out via the tool post. Might have to think about that 🤔
@@mikewasowski1411 Just imagine the headstock is a long way from being on the correct axis say 1 degree , if you then grind the jaws you will grind a 2 deg included angle on the jaws .
Maybe I missed it and I've always seen this kind of work done with a live center, is there a particular reason that you're not using one and am I being misled? I have a hobbyist knowledge and a small machine (1 HP 3phase) and I would LOVE to skip that step if at all possible.
Do mean between centres . If so , that way you can only correct tailstock alignment and bed twist and not headstock alignment . The headstock needs to be checked first .
@@swanvalleymachineshop spot on, didn’t realize that is what it was called, but all the other CZcamsrs mention that with stick out past a certain point you can’t get good results and obviously you did (I mean yea, it was off like 2 thousand, but you clearly showed that was an error in the machine) That’s what I am wanting to know really, how do I achieve good results without turning between centers. Is there a trick, rule, or something?
@@entritur Always use your tailstock to support the work . You will soon learn how much stick out you can get away with & it's not much on a small lathe . And make sure your tailstock is aligned , that was just one of a couple of methods to do that in the video . Cheers .
the problem with precision levels... if i buy a cheap chinese one to level my cheap chinese lathe, within a week i will go and chat with an old mate, and find that he has a starret or something sitting in a box at the back of a cupboard and that why didnt i ask, i may as well have it as he hasnt used it. ever? then it can sit in a box in the back of my cupboard for thirty years! but if i do ask therell be no such thing. sigh. thinking about it, should be able to do something with a simple plumb bob on a flat base actually. hmmmm. im gunna try this.
Everything moves, a tongue in cheek engineer said when a fat Horse Fly lands on a railway track it will sag about 1 millionth of an inch. Allan Rowe, now in his mid nineties, founder of Alroh shut down the factory in Subiaco and sold all the jigs, patterns and dies to the Chinese. They failed to understand the procedure to make lawnmowers and all the equipment was repurchased and brought back to Mandurah where MEY makes quality Australian Made lawnmowers!
The machine is made in Taiwan . I have had some heavy work in that lathe , more than what would be expected from it . Still , they are not built the same as a quality European or American machine . Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Geez should be a good machine if from Taiwan - I think you hit the nail on the head re the metal plate base - it’ll be. Anew machine once you bolt it to the concrete floor in the new shop - just for your info the Colchesters are cast iron base on the head side and on the tailstock end they have a heavy ( looks 5 mm) sheet steel base but they still reenforced with 50 mm tubing to give it the rigidity - May work for yours. X Cheers .
@@rupert5390 That model lathe i have is a budget mass produced lathe , sold around the world under different brand names . At the end of the day , it is a reasonable lathe for what it is . I do plan to hang on to it for a long time .
Metric system is fine . It is the different ways some manufacturers graduate their machines that can take a bit of getting used to , some in .02 some in .04 & some in .05 mm . At least imperial a thou is a thou & that's the way the machines are graduated ! Cheers .
Just for clarification, how does a decimal differentiate imperial from metric? Last i knew .5 of anything is still half...be it an inch, millimeter, mile or kilometer...
@@bobluthier3031 Yes you dont know. Im also not going to explain it further to people who are stuck in their ways and unable to comprehend anything else. The fact that you cant put it together says everything as to why you arent getting the decimal issue being used in metric. Tough cookies. Believe whatever fantasy that makes you complete. K? Good!
I discovered how little pressure a sharp HSS tool exerts while roughing a shaft. For some reason I bumped the tool between cuts and found I had forgotten to tighten it in its holder!
Good teaching video, thanks Max.
That will do it ! Cheers .
Learn something everytime I watch your videos, great channel. Thanks max...
Thanks Mate , Cheers .
Nice work Max.
Shows how a few adjustments and some TLC you can keep a machine performing.
I am going to do this to my shop lathe.
Thanks for the education.
I think that the final .0005 could be the live center.
Still very good tolerance for a lathe.
Thanks for the great content, EM.
The centre is rooted , needs new bearings & i did not realise they were that worn . Cheers .
Really surprising to see the amount of deflection involved, timely reminder to pay great attention to detail at each stage of set-up and executions. Thanks Max for a really interesting video. It's a thumbs-up and a sub from me.
Thanks Stan . Cheers .
Great Information Max, cheers from USA, PAUL
Thanks Paul .
@@swanvalleymachineshop I just purchased a 13" x
Excellent walk-through of something I've been postponing on my own lathe. Thanks for the knowledge!
No worries . Cheers .
My old ENCO 1340 is built very similar. Will remember this when that day comes.
Thanks Vern . Cheers .
Appreciate the nuts and bolts to do the job correctly. Thanks for the look.
Thanks John . Cheers .
G’day Max. You’re a cut above the rest. Good educational video, thanks. The turn the bar around after zeroing the dial gauge to fast check the tail stock is something I don’t think I’ve seen before, thanks.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks Peter . I think i had that method in an older video . Cheers .
you sir, are the master of making what you have work... cheers
Thanks Doug . Cheers .
Excellent video Max. Really well explained and demonstrated, your lathe is in decent nick to produce these results, this also qualifies the lack of wear on your bed. Having done all this myself a few times, I have a good idea how time consuming this process really is, you did very well squashing it into a short video without losing any of the key info. Well done. Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon . I was not going to film it , but did anyway , a pain in the ass in the middle of a job . It was heavily edited & totally unplanned ! Cheers .
Nice work max I find cutting with coolant and without can have an effect on the sizes as well sometimes
It can do . I have also had it cause light chatter . 👍
Gday Max, it’s amazing how much defection the tool gives, this was a great video, I like these type of educational videos, thanks Max, cheers
Carbide & harder steel , the tool pressure goes right up . enough to flex the tailstock on a small lathe . Cheers .
Great video mate! Had no idea the head stock could be adjusted like that and makes sense on mine after I was chasing it around all over the place with shims!
Hi Mate . Not all lathes have an adjustment there , some headstocks sit on the vee ways . Cheers .
On my mini lathe you can nearly park a car in the gap between the V slot of the head and the V way on the bed 🤣
Another great lesson! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge Max, it's much appreciated. 👍
No worries . Cheers Mate .
Your lathe is very similar to my machine - interesting to see how you tweak it into shape. Mine hopefully won't need to move for a very long time after the shop here is finished, and I need to check the headstock alignment and spindle bearings as it is recommissioned. Thanks for showing how you do it!
Thanks . I will do it in more depth when it is set up in the new shop .
Thanks Max, another enjoyable video, even learnt something along the way.
Thanks Mate .
G’day Max. I got caught on the Colchester funnily enough. Was using it unlevelled on my slanting concrete floor. Mine turned an internal ice cream 🍦 cone when boring 4”. Had me stumped, until I checked the level 🤦♂️. Cheers 🍻. Aaron
They like to sit flat . Cheers Aaron .
Hi Max, You are coorect about the CNMG style insert being stronger than the TNMG style. Its simple as the TNMG has 60 degree included angle corner where as the CNMG has 80 degree inclduded angle along with greater support behind the cutting edge. That what makes it stronger. Enjoyed your clip on adjustment and I could see exactly where you were going. The big thing I have found when making these sorts of adjustments is to move small amounts with the screws. Cheers Ian New Zealand
Thanks Ian . Cheers .
It's very satisfying getting the twist out of the bed and getting the headstock and tailstock lined up. My lathe bed bolts to a steel box cabinet similar to yours, and the cabinet sits on concrete, with levelling feet I made. I found that the cabinet was too rigid for the combined weight (440kg) and instead of the levelling feet twisting the bed, it just allowed the whole lot to rock. So to solve this, I shimmed between the lathe bed, and the cabinet, this straightened out the bed, and let me put even pressure on each foot on the floor. It was only a bees dick out of parallel, but it's nice seeing the bubble central on both ends of the bed. Thanks for the video Max, great info, particularly the reminder about tool cutting pressure and workpiece toughness throwing your diameters off. Cheers, Craig
Thanks Craig . Cheers .
Great video Max, we all have different ways to machine and check taper with a test bar but I must admit your way is by far the best I have seen.
Cam
And cheap ! There is no way i am buying a test bar for my 540 x 2000 & 600 x 3000 lathes ! Thanks Cam . I have your sticker in the next video , Cheers .
🤗Smart idea swapping end over end the bar with a sharpie circle mark, rather than using a test bar that costs a small fortune. 👍👍🏴
Test bar's are not cheap for a good one that will do the same thing as a bit of scrap steel . They do have their uses in some set up work though . My other lathes are 2m and 3m between centres so a test bar would not be practical . Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Just an idea Max, could you set up a test pipe for the bigger lathes instead of a test bar? Just so you don't waste as much material, and also make it not deflect under its own weight as much.
Great video showing differentl techniques on removing the taper and expecially how different metals produced different results. Enjoyed watching learnt some more facts. Tony
Thanks Tony . Cheers .
This video literally saved me. Thank you SO MUCH
Did you find you had to slacken the back bolts fully too, or just really mess with the front ones? Would it be worth investing in a test bar or just turn a piece or 36 odd mm like you have?
@@rexemprojectiles2902 From memory i think i may have had only one slackened off & the other rear just nipped lightly . You can use test bars , i generally don't as i don't own one ! Any bit of suitable scrap can give the same results .
Very good video. Thank you for sharing this procedure with us
Thanks .
Another superb video 👌
Thanks Mate . Cheers .
I've got the same lathe and base. I have no problem levelling the lathe and getting any twist out of the bed using jacking screws in the cabinet. There are problems with compensating for twist by turning the head.
If the cabinet was bolted down it would help , i will most likely do that in the new shop . 👍
Great discussion/demonstration....very helpful...tks for sharing
Thanks Chuck . Hey we should do a sticker swap one day ! Cheers .
good video max..thanks for your time
Thanks Mate .
Hello Max,
This was a very interesting video... thank you...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul . Cheers .
Good information , Max!
Thanks John .
You find me today debating living with a sub-par wooden bench and spending the recently-doubled price for steel for a proper one, for this exact reason.
When i finish the new shop , i will build a solid base for it . The way it should be built ! My little 10K Southbend sits on a wooden top bench 2'' thick with a heavy angle iron & 4'' pipe frame .
@@swanvalleymachineshopThat's about what I'd be happy with for my little machines but the price of wood products has gone bananas here too. I look forward to seeing how your new shop comes together.
Well Played. Thanks for providing something nice to watch and learn from.
Hi Dan . I hope you lot have been keeping well . Cheers .
@MichaelKingsfordGray What do you mean by that comment .
I have the same problem with my lathe. I shoud dig in to it one day, but... yeah... one day...
One day Rusty ! Cheers .
Like a carrot haha. To bad it's not turning like 24 carrots. Nice work Max
I wish !!!
Greetings from Mariginiup. Cheers Max, learnt something today.
Thanks Allan . Cheers .
Well done Max.
Thanks Randy .
Hi Max, You might want to try the WNMG, you get six edges as opposed to four with the CNMG. Best wishes Mal.
I have a 16mm one but don't use it ! I will probably pick up a 25mm one later for the other lathes . I am too used to a tnmg as it gives better access to tight spots . The other 4 edges on the cnmg i use in another tool holder . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Totally agree mate, I like using a VBMT for tight spots, like when turning shafts and you are near the center.
… 32.08 and a poofteenth Aussie technical precision at its best! LOL
Thanks Mate . Cheers .
Well you got to subscribe 😁😂but I'm a nut for machining. Frikin love it so what I've seen so far. I'll be watching a crap load of your vids by look of it. 😁👍👍 I can watch you ole boys all day .love picking up the lil tricks. Great stuff Sir. Thanks for opportunity.
Thanks Brad . Cheers .
That was a really useful tutorial. Thanks, Max. I remember spending half a day trying to get my lathe leveled. I have hesitated to look at it since and I know I should. Cheers.
Thanks Rob .
Great vid thanks Max! That got the wrinkles out of it. I reckon most of the Hobby lathes are of the character building kind! Cheers
Thanks & yes i agree with you there ! Cheers .
carrots are no good in machine tools 👍👍😂👍👍. thanks for the tutorial
Thanks Mate . John Mill's is the man for turning fruit & veg ! Cheers .
Maybe cleaning the chips off ways would help,, just takes the right peace to shim up table
The carriage way wipers do that , they are removed regularly for inspection . Still have to add them to the tailstock as they are not fitted from factory . If anything was under the tailstock it can be felt straight away .
A bit of a "Woof" in it!, I assume that's Aussie for "Dog Leg" !!!!.
Great demo on headstock alignment Max.
Thanks for sharing, hope it's not too cold down there?.
Best regards John.
It's bloody cold in the mornings & evenings , i think it got down to 6 or 7 deg C the other night ! Yes woof means a slight dog leg bend ! Cheers .
I reckon the chances of "breaking a chip" in steel on a mini lathe is the equivalent of seeing a drop bear...
You might have a chance if you choose a small nose radius 0.4mm or less, take a minimum depth of cut roughly the same as the nose radius, use good insert geometry (positive rather than negative and with a high rake) and set a high feed.
Where did you see the bear...?
The depth of cut has to be deep enough for the chip breaker to work regardless of the nose radius . A small lathe you will have best results with a small nose radius so you have less depth before the chip breaker comes into play . If a Koala falls out of a tree and misses you it's just a Koala , if it hits you it's a Drop Bear !!!
Thanks Max.
No worries Don . Cheers .
Great info !! I’ll save this one for sure . How much flex does your machine have if you just lean on it with your hands ? Say for example you have the indicator on the bar and check the chuck is tight ...? Mine flexes an alarming amount
I have a bit of that in the next video . But yes these small lathes move a bit ! Cheers .
great subscribed
Thanks .
Coolant is generally a great way to kill carbide. Especially with an interrupted cut.
Sometimes it can do . In this case it is more important to keep the bar cool & straight . Cheers .
Question re the 960B, all the references I can find talk 12mm tool height but my newly acquired machine measures 16mm to dead center? I'd much rather run 16mm tools.
They will take 16mm no worries , depending on your tool holder set up . Maybe the original solid tool post is set up for 12mm . I use mainly 3/4 & 20mm tooling as it will fit my other lathes , but i did have to machine a fraction off the bottom surface .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Thanks for that, the story from H&F was that tool post centre heights vary from 15-16mm on the 960 from the factory so they list as being a 12mm, with packing. Seems an excessive tolerance for what's marketed as a "precision", "toolroom quality" machine.
Gidday Max, good explanation of alignment.
I hadn't thought of end for ending the bar but should have as it's the same for silly grinding, doooh.
Your opinion on the Gator chuck?
Contemplating a Gator 6 Jaw set tru...
That's right it is , to re set the table . The Gator chuck i have found excellent . A set true one would be the best set up . It's worth getting the soft jaws for them as well . Cheers .
Thanks Max, thats all me Morse taper and now me head and tailstock I've got to check and true up ffs lol 👍
Thanks Ralfy . Cheers .
Cant the twist be put right by shimming between the bed and the base of the machine?
The base is not solid enough & you would only flex the base . It needs to be a lot more solid & bolted to the concrete floor , as it will be in the new shop . Cheers .
Pardon my ignorance but could you make the same correction grinding the chuck jaws? Understand head stock adjustment is much quicker. I’m off to check mine!
No the chuck jaws have no bearing on spindle alignment . Thanks .
@@swanvalleymachineshop interesting. I know grinding the inside of the jaws corrects run out, but I would have thought it would also correct the skew since you are moving the grinder in out via the tool post. Might have to think about that 🤔
@@mikewasowski1411 Just imagine the headstock is a long way from being on the correct axis say 1 degree , if you then grind the jaws you will grind a 2 deg included angle on the jaws .
Maybe I missed it and I've always seen this kind of work done with a live center, is there a particular reason that you're not using one and am I being misled? I have a hobbyist knowledge and a small machine (1 HP 3phase) and I would LOVE to skip that step if at all possible.
Do mean between centres . If so , that way you can only correct tailstock alignment and bed twist and not headstock alignment . The headstock needs to be checked first .
@@swanvalleymachineshop spot on, didn’t realize that is what it was called, but all the other CZcamsrs mention that with stick out past a certain point you can’t get good results and obviously you did (I mean yea, it was off like 2 thousand, but you clearly showed that was an error in the machine)
That’s what I am wanting to know really, how do I achieve good results without turning between centers. Is there a trick, rule, or something?
@@entritur Always use your tailstock to support the work . You will soon learn how much stick out you can get away with & it's not much on a small lathe . And make sure your tailstock is aligned , that was just one of a couple of methods to do that in the video . Cheers .
the problem with precision levels...
if i buy a cheap chinese one to level my cheap chinese lathe, within a week i will go and chat with an old mate, and find that he has a starret or something sitting in a box at the back of a cupboard and that why didnt i ask, i may as well have it as he hasnt used it. ever? then it can sit in a box in the back of my cupboard for thirty years!
but if i do ask therell be no such thing.
sigh.
thinking about it, should be able to do something with a simple plumb bob on a flat base actually. hmmmm. im gunna try this.
Always the way ! 👍
Hello Max
At approx 26:00 - turning the shaft between centres, what's driving the shaft - I can't see a dog etc
Tks
Just the light pressure between centres . Being a vary light cut in ally it works ok . Cheers .
Not sure that imperial reading people would get puffter hint measurement! LOL
One day they might !
Everything moves, a tongue in cheek engineer said when a fat Horse Fly lands on a railway track it will sag about 1 millionth of an inch.
Allan Rowe, now in his mid nineties, founder of Alroh shut down the factory in Subiaco and sold all the jigs, patterns and dies to the Chinese.
They failed to understand the procedure to make lawnmowers and all the equipment was repurchased and brought back to Mandurah where MEY makes quality Australian Made lawnmowers!
Bloody Horse Fly's , they are big & bite ! MEY have a shop not far away , in Bayswater . Cheers .
Slowly slowly catch the. Monkey . And remember he might bite! Well explained
Cheers Mate . Play in the bloody revolving centre , i did not see that one coming !!!
Great video spoken in proper imperial inch so I can understand whats going on. Thanks :?)
Thanks Mate . Cheers .
If you have to have a Chinese lathe I would stick with Jinan or Benci. Their lathes tend to be on the larger side though.
That lathe is made in Taiwan . One of my other lathes is Chinese , a JFMT 530 X 2000 it seems to be quite a good machine , copied from a Mazac .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Yeah, they're good machines. I used to run one. The ways were worn from years of misuse but it never broke down.
Is it because it’s a Chinese machine.
The machine is made in Taiwan . I have had some heavy work in that lathe , more than what would be expected from it . Still , they are not built the same as a quality European or American machine . Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Geez should be a good machine if from Taiwan - I think you hit the nail on the head re the metal plate base - it’ll be. Anew machine once you bolt it to the concrete floor in the new shop - just for your info the Colchesters are cast iron base on the head side and on the tailstock end they have a heavy ( looks 5 mm) sheet steel base but they still reenforced with 50 mm tubing to give it the rigidity - May work for yours. X
Cheers .
@@rupert5390 That model lathe i have is a budget mass produced lathe , sold around the world under different brand names . At the end of the day , it is a reasonable lathe for what it is . I do plan to hang on to it for a long time .
"For us metric folks" ..... As soon as you include that decimal, you are now imperial. Metric system is a huge joke.
Metric system is fine . It is the different ways some manufacturers graduate their machines that can take a bit of getting used to , some in .02 some in .04 & some in .05 mm . At least imperial a thou is a thou & that's the way the machines are graduated ! Cheers .
If you can’t use metric and imperial. You stand no chance of driving a lathe ! Maby take up a more simple hobby ? Jigsaw puzzles perhaps ?
Just for clarification, how does a decimal differentiate imperial from metric? Last i knew .5 of anything is still half...be it an inch, millimeter, mile or kilometer...
@@bobluthier3031 Yes you dont know. Im also not going to explain it further to people who are stuck in their ways and unable to comprehend anything else. The fact that you cant put it together says everything as to why you arent getting the decimal issue being used in metric. Tough cookies. Believe whatever fantasy that makes you complete. K? Good!
@@thecommentary21 lol ok thanks!