Very creative demo of the "Troubles" with your headstock... Good trademanship to knock stuff out on size with some kind of economy of movement with some of the gear we're using!
So glad you’re feeling better Max. Shaft came out great. Thanks for all the tips and bonus material. I learn something every episode. 👍👍😎👍👍. Cheers Mate
I've been reading about the benefits of back parting...that's back parting from the front! All the benefits and none of the complication of building a back tool post. Very clever!
The same company sells lathes under other names - PM sells them in the US. They come with a transmission full of chips and lots of things to debur right out of the crate. Really looking forward to you fixing that play in the lathe - lots of people have the same problem. Even if it isn't fixable - like to see you try. Thanks so much for letting us look over your shoulder - quite the treat.
Love it! I have numerous landrover axle shafts I've broken in off road trials in my scrap stock but not yet actually machined one, so, it's been an education. Thanks Max.
Landrover axles we’re a bit light on. Len Beadell (The Gunbarrel Highway builder in the ‘50s and ‘60s) broke a front one in his Landrover out in the desert on one expedition. How he got back you wouldn’t know. Yet another story. Jeff
@@jefftheaussie2225 I managed two axles safts and a diff in one in the laakes district UK not even in compertition, mind you all wheels airbourne didn't help! LOL
Nice job on the hard turning, noticed the tool holder you featured a while ago, utilising the unused corner on the 80° Rhombus CNxx insert, approach angle is better for high loads as well I understand? Certainly going to be a proper job Max. Thanks for sharing. Regards John.
Big thumbs up Max. Good job on making the new shaft mate. Excellent idea of using the reclaimed axle. I can’t believe you’re getting that level of twist in your Hafco lathe. I bet you can’t wait to get the big lathe up and running. Cheers 🍻 Aaron
G'day Max mate, glad you're OK, great video and bonus footage too, love me some upcycling as "they" would call it, certainly a bit of a squeeler with that parting blade eh lol, keep up the great work, really looking forward to following along
You know that the axle is good steel. And your workbench looks just like mine! Great minds don’t have time for tidying up. That is my motto till I get upset when I can’t find……..anything
Gday Max, the material had a deep hardened layer, looked to be about 4 to 5mm thick, it’ll heat treat good and never wear out, I’ve been thinking about building a new base for my lathe, the cabinets are pretty crap and I find I’m checking the tailstock alignment regularly and making fine adjustment, im thinking it’s definitely worth the effort, great video mate, Cheers
Lol , those cabinets are crap . I should bolt them down , maybe in the new shop ! Still that lathe will only be doing light small work in the new shop 👍
Hi Max, everthing moves under load. A tongue in cheek Engineer once said when a fat horsefly lands on a railway track it will sag 1 millionth of an inch. The Crows are swearing a lot in the background. Used put up with them every year nesting in my lemon scented gumtree and steal the dog food.
Speciality steels often require a bit more than a fire to soften them . I have some that after 24 hrs & 3 ton of wood , pulling them out 5 days later after the fire still warm they still came out hard ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Fair enough. The steel I've tried this on were pivot pins for the arm on a JCB (backhoe on the other side of the pond). Very tough high quality steel softened to an easily machinable state.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop In an upcoming video , i will try & remember to do a hardness file test on some Cat pins that i had in the fire . Have a look at my older video , Angle plates part 1 .
Glad you're feeling better mate.. that's an odd one with the headstock moving like that, hopefully it's just rocking on a chip and not something more problematic to fix.. it'll be interesting to see what is really going on there as I've never seen a headstock move like that, I'd be surprised if it's an issue from the factory because their a pretty good machine
Most other machining channels: I hate using the parting tool. It never works well. Max: OK, so now we're going to use the parting tool to bulk out this material. Works well. 😄 Andrew
Hello Max. I've never heard the term 'balance cut' before so I may be speaking out of my ass here. When I want to cut to a very accurate size I never use a spring pass. The reason is that the carbide inserts usually give a terrible finish on a spring pass as they aren't taking a deep enough cut. I have found that on my lathe with the inserts I use it works much better to take several finishing passes all at the same depth of cut. The optimum depth of cut for my inserts is about .016" so I will rough to within .048" on radius (or .096" on diameter) of the finish size. I will then take three finishing passes of .016" depth of cut. I always take a measurement after the second last cut and then make any adjustment required for the final depth of cut. (this adjustment is usually small, resulting in an actual depth of cut of say, .0158" or .0162" ). By doing this, conditions during the final cut are identical to the conditions for the second last cut (i.e. tool flex, headstock flex, bed twist etc.). Therefore you can be confident that the amount of material removed in the last pass will be exactly the depth of cut you put on. It is probably a slower method than others but I can always hit the size within .0002" and usually can hit it within .0001". I only use this method when I have to be very accurate. Ken
Good technique, it's something I'm learning to do, ref using a CNC machine in my garage/shop, plus sometimes changing to a positive rake insert for finished size. Sandvik recommend a depth of cut equal to or bigger than the insert radius, which was a surprise, and using smaller radius inserts for better finish, seems counter intuitive though! Regards John
Hi Ken . What you are doing there is pretty well a balanced cut . As you know , you want to avoid a light cut for a finish pass . Too much unpredictable movement in my headstock to be able to do that . 👍
😷Glad to hear that your recovery from Covid is going well. Best wishes to you and your loved ones. At least you don’t have white tip spiders bite to deal with like Matty’s. 👍🏴
Would have never expected headstock to move like that, when we get back working on our shop built lathe we will definitely pay close attention to this, probably add extra support anywhere we can, but before we can even get started back on that, we have major issues with our shop built drill-mll, the x/y table tries to lift and move around, going to have to pull table back apart and really beef up in/out portion first, hope your machine is easier to fix than our shop built ones are 🤣
Happy new year Max, very happy you survived the bout of "Fauci-itis"(Kovid). Per usual Max you are always well founded in your planning and exaction of every task you tackle, starting out with the axle certainly was a surprise and very enlightening but seeing how FUBAR your lathe is it makes your outstanding results show just how savvy you really are, always a treat to watch you in action Max, never boring.
Thanks . Yes , glad to get over the Covid adventure ! Best thing about covid , it got me out of helping the Wife with the evening dishes for a week ! 👍
Hi Max, why take the easy route lol, well made out of some less than forgiving material! Your headstock flex is interesting, I have seen this before but only on mini lathes etc, that's going to take some work to fix! Can't blame you for working round it for now mate! Cheers, Jon
Hey Max good video . I was thinking on the light lathes we don't know if there is a slight twist in the bed when there machined and then we level them and then there sprung and one corner is a bit lighter . So i think cement feet would help so you could hold the feet in fixed position . just a thought. My first lathe was a 13x30 lightweight lathe like 700 pounds and when i was knurling something and applied to much force the bed would flex . I told the guy i sold it to to mount it to a rigged stand not the sheet metal one it came with . good luck . JM
I might take the cabinet off & bolt it to the table of the big mill to see what really flexes . I can always cut out a bit of 32mm 1 1/4'' plate for a sub base under the chip pan if it's the bed flexing . 👍
Very interesting how the Headstock is flexing. I am assuming you have the mag base of the indicator on the Bed. I have a similar problem on my Clausing 100, but I am measuring from the bed to the back of the tool post while taking small depths of cut. I am assuming it is in need oc grinding the chuck jaws. My avenue of investigation is to try to let me the machine tell me what is wrong with it. So far any repairs I have done have helped by little bites at a time but still not where I want it to be.
Mag base on the bed next to the headstock . You might be picking up deflection from tool pressure , something all lathes have in varying amounts . It's normal . 👍
Seeing how well your upside down parting tool works, made me wonder if there would be similar benefits to running all lathe tools that way. Aside from not having direct visibility of the point where tool meets workpiece, is there some drawback to turning operations in that orientation?
G'day Max Excellent job on the axle. Just wondering if it would have been easier to cut it on a bandsaw. Looking forward to the finished product with the re hardening
@@Peter-V_00 I thought that the actual baring section at the stud area is 55 Rockwell, but the lower end of the axle would be softer due to the axle being bent, which can be straightend
Enjoyed….couch potato (learning) machinist question…with the piece parted off, couldn’t you have held on the large diameter in the 3 jaw, machine one end then flop to machine the other (quicker process)? Or the machine issue prevents my question/process?
Hi Chuck . The section i removed with the parting tool was still in the case hardened zone , way quicker to do it with the parting tool being everything was still set up . Would have had to do a couple of tool & insert swaps the other way . Actual turning time would have been longer as well . 👍
Hi Max First "BOO ON YOU" for pointing out the problem with your lathe. I too having inconsistent results and I went out and checked and if I really reef on the chuck and chip pan I can get 0.05 mm movement. I also found that if I just pull on the tail stock end of the pan I get similar result. I have a AL336D sitting on six x 100 mm rubber machine feet and I get a movement just by shaking the lathe. I am wondering if the problem is coming from the base as it is sitting on two metal boxes with only the foot brake to join them do you think this could be the case ?. Dave
I have worked with plenty of steel like that before so getting through it for a small part like this is no problem . Also , no heat treatment oven & throwing it in a fire will do bugger all . 👍
Sutton , Silver Bullet is what i go for . The ordinary non blackened , no bullshit 4 facet grind crap ,bog standard old style drill bit . They still make them ! 👍
20mm , 3/4'' , i can use this tooling in another of my machines . That size lathe is best suited for 16mm , 5/8'' tooling . The smaller the tools the easier they are to use with regards to breaking a chip . 👍
Hi Max Yes those axels are a bitch but they cost nothing. It will good to see the issue with the head stock and how you address that play. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😎😎😎😎😎🤠🤠🤠🤠🤠🧐🧐
Will have to pull the headstock off the bed . The mounting bolts are still tight . The thing with axles , you have to keep a keen eye out for any cracks that may be there ! 👍
The best machine shop video I've seen in a long while. ....Dave
Cheers Dave . 👍
A well deserved compliment from a very accomplished steam power artisan.
Enjoying the work you are doing. Looking forward to the continuation. Thanks!
Cheers . 👍
The bonus footage at the end was interesting Max, looking forward to the solution.
Thanks . It could be a curly one ! 👍
Great to see you feeling better Max..nice project, lookin forward to watching pt2!
Thanks . I will get that sticker in the post next week , have not forgotten ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop No worries or hurries Max, have a good evening.
Very creative demo of the "Troubles" with your headstock...
Good trademanship to knock stuff out on size with some kind of economy of movement with some of the gear we're using!
Cheers Carl . 👍
So glad you’re feeling better Max. Shaft came out great. Thanks for all the tips and bonus material. I learn something every episode. 👍👍😎👍👍. Cheers Mate
Thanks 👍
I've been reading about the benefits of back parting...that's back parting from the front! All the benefits and none of the complication of building a back tool post. Very clever!
It works very well . 👍
Wow the headstock issue is quite the problem. Nice job so far.👍👍👍😀😀😀😀😀
Thanks Randy . Something i will address when i have time in the new shop . This lathe will not get a great deal of use there . 👍
Thanks for the video mate. Good to see you’re on the mend 👍🇦🇺
Cheers . 👍
The same company sells lathes under other names - PM sells them in the US. They come with a transmission full of chips and lots of things to debur right out of the crate.
Really looking forward to you fixing that play in the lathe - lots of people have the same problem. Even if it isn't fixable - like to see you try.
Thanks so much for letting us look over your shoulder - quite the treat.
No worries . I will sort out the best solution when it gets shifted over to the new shop . 👍
Love it! I have numerous landrover axle shafts I've broken in off road trials in my scrap stock but not yet actually machined one, so, it's been an education. Thanks Max.
Landrover axles we’re a bit light on. Len Beadell (The Gunbarrel Highway builder in the ‘50s and ‘60s) broke a front one in his Landrover out in the desert on one expedition. How he got back you wouldn’t know. Yet another story. Jeff
@@jefftheaussie2225 I managed two axles safts and a diff in one in the laakes district UK not even in compertition, mind you all wheels airbourne didn't help! LOL
Just watch out in case there are cracks . 👍
Nice job on the hard turning, noticed the tool holder you featured a while ago, utilising the unused corner on the 80° Rhombus CNxx insert, approach angle is better for high loads as well I understand?
Certainly going to be a proper job Max.
Thanks for sharing.
Regards John.
Yes , angled approach is better . It's good to be able to use the other corners of the cnmg insert . 👍
Hello Max,
Good video, very interesting the bonus material relating to balanced cuts...
Take care.
Paul,,
Cheers Paul . 👍
I can envisage hundreds of people running out to their shop's to do that test. Me probably being one of them! nice informative video👍
Lol , i can see that too !!! 👍
Big thumbs up Max. Good job on making the new shaft mate. Excellent idea of using the reclaimed axle. I can’t believe you’re getting that level of twist in your Hafco lathe. I bet you can’t wait to get the big lathe up and running. Cheers 🍻 Aaron
Cheers Aaron . When it grows up , i hope it turns into a Harrison or Colchester ! It will be put on Broom Closet Duties when the JFMT is running ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop I wouldn’t mind it in my broom closet Max. It probably identifies as a Colchester though. Jeff
@@jefftheaussie2225 Lol 👍
G'day Max mate, glad you're OK, great video and bonus footage too, love me some upcycling as "they" would call it, certainly a bit of a squeeler with that parting blade eh lol, keep up the great work, really looking forward to following along
Nothing wrong with a squealer there Ralfy !!! 🤣🤣👍👍👍🍺
Really interesting video. Looking forward to part 2. Glad you won against covid but avoid catching it again.
Thanks 👍
Nice show on how to use other material from unexpected sources to make a tool. . NICE
Thanks . 👍
You know that the axle is good steel. And your workbench looks just like mine! Great minds don’t have time for tidying up. That is my motto till I get upset when I can’t find……..anything
Yes , i put something down & it disappears . Or i am getting too old & forgetful ! 👍
Excellent video, look forward to seeing the investigation into the headstock flexing. And glad to see you on the mend.
Thanks . 👍
Very good info to look for on the machine. Took some time to figure out what was causing the problem for sure. Thanks Max
Cheers . Something else to sort out when in the new shop ! 👍
You are a good teacher, did learn from this. Thanks.
Cheers . 👍
Hi Max. Enjoyed watching. Cheers Tony
Thanks Tony . 👍
Gday Max, the material had a deep hardened layer, looked to be about 4 to 5mm thick, it’ll heat treat good and never wear out, I’ve been thinking about building a new base for my lathe, the cabinets are pretty crap and I find I’m checking the tailstock alignment regularly and making fine adjustment, im thinking it’s definitely worth the effort, great video mate, Cheers
Lol , those cabinets are crap . I should bolt them down , maybe in the new shop ! Still that lathe will only be doing light small work in the new shop 👍
Excellent information max, great video, keep'um coming..
Cheers . 👍
Well done Max. I have an axle sitting here in stock waiting for inspiration. LOL.
All the best
Dan
Lol , best of luck !!! 👍👍👍
Hi Max, everthing moves under load.
A tongue in cheek Engineer once said when a fat horsefly lands on a railway track it will sag 1 millionth of an inch.
The Crows are swearing a lot in the background.
Used put up with them every year nesting in my lemon scented gumtree and steal the dog food.
Everything moves , but should not move that easily !!! 👍
I'd have chucked the bit of shaft you machined in the woodburner. An evening at red heat followed by a slow cooling anneals it a treat!
Speciality steels often require a bit more than a fire to soften them . I have some that after 24 hrs & 3 ton of wood , pulling them out 5 days later after the fire still warm they still came out hard ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Fair enough. The steel I've tried this on were pivot pins for the arm on a JCB (backhoe on the other side of the pond). Very tough high quality steel softened to an easily machinable state.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop In an upcoming video , i will try & remember to do a hardness file test on some Cat pins that i had in the fire . Have a look at my older video , Angle plates part 1 .
Ha, a nice ridgid lathe, I have a similar one. I will have to try that with mine one day
Lol , you hit the nail on the head there ! 👍
Glad you're feeling better mate.. that's an odd one with the headstock moving like that, hopefully it's just rocking on a chip and not something more problematic to fix.. it'll be interesting to see what is really going on there as I've never seen a headstock move like that, I'd be surprised if it's an issue from the factory because their a pretty good machine
Yes , it will be an interesting one . 👍
Hard turning is always neat. I'm still squeel'n from the feel'n.
Lol . 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍
No worries . 👍
Glad you are feeling better Max. Covid is a nasty one for sure.
Thanks . 👍
Most other machining channels: I hate using the parting tool. It never works well.
Max: OK, so now we're going to use the parting tool to bulk out this material. Works well.
😄
Andrew
Lol . That's because most other machining channels are hobbyist's who think they are machinists . 👍
good video Max
Thanks . 👍
Hello Max. I've never heard the term 'balance cut' before so I may be speaking out of my ass here. When I want to cut to a very accurate size I never use a spring pass. The reason is that the carbide inserts usually give a terrible finish on a spring pass as they aren't taking a deep enough cut. I have found that on my lathe with the inserts I use it works much better to take several finishing passes all at the same depth of cut. The optimum depth of cut for my inserts is about .016" so I will rough to within .048" on radius (or .096" on diameter) of the finish size. I will then take three finishing passes of .016" depth of cut. I always take a measurement after the second last cut and then make any adjustment required for the final depth of cut. (this adjustment is usually small, resulting in an actual depth of cut of say, .0158" or .0162" ). By doing this, conditions during the final cut are identical to the conditions for the second last cut (i.e. tool flex, headstock flex, bed twist etc.). Therefore you can be confident that the amount of material removed in the last pass will be exactly the depth of cut you put on. It is probably a slower method than others but I can always hit the size within .0002" and usually can hit it within .0001". I only use this method when I have to be very accurate. Ken
Good technique, it's something I'm learning to do, ref using a CNC machine in my garage/shop, plus sometimes changing to a positive rake insert for finished size. Sandvik recommend a depth of cut equal to or bigger than the insert radius, which was a surprise, and using smaller radius inserts for better finish, seems counter intuitive though!
Regards John
Hi Ken . What you are doing there is pretty well a balanced cut . As you know , you want to avoid a light cut for a finish pass . Too much unpredictable movement in my headstock to be able to do that . 👍
All finishing inserts that i know of have a small radius , Exact opposite compared to HSS !
😷Glad to hear that your recovery from Covid is going well. Best wishes to you and your loved ones.
At least you don’t have white tip spiders bite to deal with like Matty’s. 👍🏴
You do not want to get a bite from those things , worse than covid ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop “Matty workshop”was pretty crook laid him up worse than covid and he’s still recovering from the bite 🕷️🤒
Great job using salvage material!
Thanks . If it's for yourself it's fine . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Yes, I take the time to save a little cash on things for the shop.
Basically it’s like cold rolled. Just a gummy mess under that hard coated case hardening! But it can be re cased ! 👍🏻🍻
Thanks . I think some of the case / induction hardened stuff is a the lowest grade steel they can get away with .👍
Car and truck parts can be very useful.
So, You have a lathe with a twist...
Flexi lathe !!! 👍
Would have never expected headstock to move like that, when we get back working on our shop built lathe we will definitely pay close attention to this, probably add extra support anywhere we can, but before we can even get started back on that, we have major issues with our shop built drill-mll, the x/y table tries to lift and move around, going to have to pull table back apart and really beef up in/out portion first, hope your machine is easier to fix than our shop built ones are 🤣
Lol , caught me by surprise as well !!! 👍
@swanvalleymachineshop bet so 🤣, well we all know your up to fixing it
thanks max, i'm learing something every time
Cheers . 👍
Back at you
Happy new year Max, very happy you survived the bout of "Fauci-itis"(Kovid).
Per usual Max you are always well founded in your planning and exaction of every task you tackle, starting out with the axle certainly was a surprise and very enlightening but seeing how FUBAR your lathe is it makes your outstanding results show just how savvy you really are, always a treat to watch you in action Max, never boring.
Thanks . Yes , glad to get over the Covid adventure ! Best thing about covid , it got me out of helping the Wife with the evening dishes for a week ! 👍
Hi Max, why take the easy route lol, well made out of some less than forgiving material! Your headstock flex is interesting, I have seen this before but only on mini lathes etc, that's going to take some work to fix! Can't blame you for working round it for now mate! Cheers, Jon
Thanks , yes there are those who run straight for the 12L14 ! We shall sort the headstock , no worries ! 👍
👍 Thx for the vid.
No worries . 👍
Hey Max good video . I was thinking on the light lathes we don't know if there is a slight twist in the bed when there machined and then we level them and then there sprung and one corner is a bit lighter . So i think cement feet would help so you could hold the feet in fixed position . just a thought. My first lathe was a 13x30 lightweight lathe like 700 pounds and when i was knurling something and applied to much force the bed would flex . I told the guy i sold it to to mount it to a rigged stand not the sheet metal one it came with . good luck . JM
I might take the cabinet off & bolt it to the table of the big mill to see what really flexes . I can always cut out a bit of 32mm 1 1/4'' plate for a sub base under the chip pan if it's the bed flexing . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Yeah I was thinking Bolton it to the floor might be a good idea or epoxying a stud in this concrete
Hi Max, 31:15 You been eating too many Weetabix mate. lol
Lol , maybe ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop Looking forward to the teardown to see whats causing the deflection.
Very interesting how the Headstock is flexing. I am assuming you have the mag base of the indicator on the Bed. I have a similar problem on my Clausing 100, but I am measuring from the bed to the back of the tool post while taking small depths of cut. I am assuming it is in need oc grinding the chuck jaws. My avenue of investigation is to try to let me the machine tell me what is wrong with it. So far any repairs I have done have helped by little bites at a time but still not where I want it to be.
Mag base on the bed next to the headstock . You might be picking up deflection from tool pressure , something all lathes have in varying amounts . It's normal . 👍
Seeing how well your upside down parting tool works, made me wonder if there would be similar benefits to running all lathe tools that way. Aside from not having direct visibility of the point where tool meets workpiece, is there some drawback to turning operations in that orientation?
I do it sometimes if machining a lot of brass or cast iron to keep the chips shooting down . But you cant see jack sh_t ! 👍
Looking good. Any backlash in the cross slide lead screw affecting the DOC too?
No issues there Tom . 👍
G'day Max Excellent job on the axle. Just wondering if it would have been easier to cut it on a bandsaw. Looking forward to the finished product with the re hardening
Saw blades just skate off of 55 Rockwell like trying to cut glass.
@@Peter-V_00 I thought that the actual baring section at the stud area is 55 Rockwell, but the lower end of the axle would be softer due to the axle being bent, which can be straightend
Easier to cut it on the lathe . 👍
What kinda racket-making bird is in the background? 😂
Regards,
Duck
Crows . They look identical to Ravens . 👍
Enjoyed….couch potato (learning) machinist question…with the piece parted off, couldn’t you have held on the large diameter in the 3 jaw, machine one end then flop to machine the other (quicker process)? Or the machine issue prevents my question/process?
Hi Chuck . The section i removed with the parting tool was still in the case hardened zone , way quicker to do it with the parting tool being everything was still set up . Would have had to do a couple of tool & insert swaps the other way . Actual turning time would have been longer as well . 👍
at least your lathe is flexible Max aha
More flexible than i am at times ! 👍
3:00 I think my windows are cracked now, haha!
Lol , 👍👍👍
that is a big problem you got there with the headstock !
cheers ben.
Just a bit ! Should be able to sort it no worries . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop I was thinking, wasn't this the lathe you recently replaced the bearings on?
@@be007 Yes . They are still fine . It's the rest that moves ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop ok, i thought maybe to little preload.
@@be007 Preload is all good . 👍
Hi Max
First "BOO ON YOU" for pointing out the problem with your lathe. I too having inconsistent results and I went out and checked and if I really reef on the chuck and chip pan I can get 0.05 mm movement. I also found that if I just pull on the tail stock end of the pan I get similar result. I have a AL336D sitting on six x 100 mm rubber machine feet and I get a movement just by shaking the lathe. I am wondering if the problem is coming from the base as it is sitting on two metal boxes with only the foot brake to join them do you think this could be the case ?.
Dave
Chinese rubber cast iron ! 👍
Interesting test about hewdstock movement. I just tried that on my Harrison M300: it doesn't move at all.
That's because your lathe is made in England & Harrison make a very good machine !👍👍👍
Curious why you run the lathe in reverse to part off. I’m an amateur and just trying learn what I can. Thank Max
The parting tool runs better upside down , less chatter issues . 👍
Hi max, is there a reason you decided not to anneal the axel before you machined it.
I have worked with plenty of steel like that before so getting through it for a small part like this is no problem . Also , no heat treatment oven & throwing it in a fire will do bugger all . 👍
I wonder what that alloy is. Do you think it’s basically straight high carbon?
A forged & induction hardened mass produced Japanese axle , not sure what they make them out off . 👍
Hi Max great job,whats a good drill brand set you would recomend mate for Steel reasonable price Sutton?
Sutton , Silver Bullet is what i go for . The ordinary non blackened , no bullshit 4 facet grind crap ,bog standard old style drill bit . They still make them ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop
ta mate 😀
А почему вы не закрепите станок хорошо к полу? Очень его тилипает, от этого страдает общая жёсткость станка. А в общем очень хорошая работа 👍
It will be bolted down when i modify the base . It makes a big difference . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop 👍🤝
Gday max, I recently purchased a new Al960 B the exact machine and tool post you have. What size tooling are you using, 16mm or 20mm. B
20mm , 3/4'' , i can use this tooling in another of my machines . That size lathe is best suited for 16mm , 5/8'' tooling . The smaller the tools the easier they are to use with regards to breaking a chip . 👍
Hi Max Yes those axels are a bitch but they cost nothing. It will good to see the issue with the head stock and how you address that play. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😎😎😎😎😎🤠🤠🤠🤠🤠🧐🧐
Will have to pull the headstock off the bed . The mounting bolts are still tight . The thing with axles , you have to keep a keen eye out for any cracks that may be there ! 👍
hi max
Hi ! 👍