How to Make a Bespoke Shirt (complete) | Guide to a Bespoke Suit

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  • čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
  • This video is a tutorial for making a dress shirt by hand, which will have no exposed seams.
    Not being able to remake the whole video (yet) I remade the intro to fix the audio issues it had.
    Shirt making playlist: • Shirts
    Links I mentioned:
    Shirt canvas: www.theliningcompany.co.uk/tr...
    Dalston mill: www.dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk/...
    Every shirt ironing video on the internet: • Every shirt ironing vi...
    Some buttons: amzn.eu/d/8TgbOzZ
    If you are confused at any point look through this playlist, ask a question in the comments or PM me on IG. • Start here - Intro and...
    / thecaffeinatedtailor
    Timestamps:
    0:00 - Intro
    1:12 - Layplanning
    Back and sleeve
    2:24 Front
    3:12 'fitting up'
    6:01 Cutting out
    9:03 Cutting the canvas
    10:57 Mark stitches
    12:28 - Preparing the front
    Forming the placket
    13:49 - Preparing the back
    Attaching the yoke
    15:03 Preparing the yoke
    16:02 - Preparing the collar
    Making the collar bone repository
    18:23 Canvassing the top collar
    19:52 Making the top collar
    25:52 Canvassing the stand
    26:22 Building the collar
    32:07 - Preparing the sleeve
    Engaunting the sleeve
    38:33 Preparing the cuff
    41:08 - Joining the shoulder
    Basting the shoulder seams
    42:44 Machining the seams
    43:03 Putting up the inner yoke
    45:12 Finishing the shoulder seams
    45:46 - Applying the collar
    Checking the neckline
    46:21 Applying the collar
    47:44 Machining the collar
    49:18 Putting up the seam allowance
    50:39 Finishing the collar
    52:17 - Setting the sleeve
    Checking the seams
    53:04 Basting the seams
    55:49 Machining the seams
    57:18 Closing the seam
    59:24 Machining the seam
    1:01:01 Preparing the side seams
    1:03:43 Machining the side seams
    1:04:52 Preparing the side seam for finishing
    1:07:41 Machining the side seam method one
    1:11:15 Method two
    1:14:26 Creasing the sleeve
    1:15:25 Applying the cuff
    1:17:43 Finishing the cuff
    1:19:44 - The hem
    Positioning the hem
    1:22:45 Machining the hem
    1:25:24 - Finishing
    Cuff
    1:28:12 Collar
    1:32:04 Buttonholes
    1:38:37 Buttons
    1:40:19 Removing the basting
    1:40:41 - Final ironing
    1:43:42 - Outro
    /\ This was why the intro had to be ~1:10.
  • Jak na to + styl

Komentáře • 40

  • @danielmorrison7579
    @danielmorrison7579 Před 6 měsíci +5

    May I make a suggestion... The use of a material that has a noticeable Right/Wrong side would make it easier to follow the process.

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před 6 měsíci +1

      Thank you, this video should be my top priority to fix, so I'll get an appropriate material

  • @silviochan89
    @silviochan89 Před rokem +4

    truly bespoke, thank you so much

  • @notyourmom850
    @notyourmom850 Před rokem +3

    I see you've got an older Janome machine, Nice. I've just purchased a newer computerized Brother machine which helps save time immensely for me, especially when making waistcoats! I am in the process of perfecting making shirts and I love this video. I prefer double cuffs at all times, it's a comfort thing

  • @Tgrant747
    @Tgrant747 Před 3 měsíci

    Just found your channel . Great content and thorough instructions. I will be working my way through all your videos. You are obviously talented. Thanks for taking you time to teach us.

  • @shyemsumom
    @shyemsumom Před 2 měsíci

    Thanks for you work! It is very useful!

  • @bernduwebrunner4928
    @bernduwebrunner4928 Před 11 měsíci +1

    Yes but please show us how to make a tabcollar out off a normal collar please

  • @elenapizzichini7805
    @elenapizzichini7805 Před rokem

    Thanks!!!!!

  • @sallybrown7854
    @sallybrown7854 Před měsícem

    First time of watching , what a talent , lovely. How long did it take you to master tailoring. Thanks for posting video.

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před měsícem

      I've been learning for maybe 4 years by now. But this video I'm not too happy with anymore, it needs to be updated. Thanks though

  • @phionahkomujuni2086
    @phionahkomujuni2086 Před 4 měsíci

    Thnks lots

  • @Y4yCbLLIuTb
    @Y4yCbLLIuTb Před 2 měsíci +1

    so ok bro... you down...

  • @thatxonexguy5438
    @thatxonexguy5438 Před rokem +1

    Have you thought about using French seams? I find i can get a super tight seam along with it looking neater and being quicker than me trying to do a flat-felled seam. Theyre a pain if you have to alter the shirt though...

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před rokem +3

      I expect it's difficult to alter the shirt to make it bigger anyway
      I would agree it's probably much quicker, but I figured the point of flat felled is to keep the seam flat with the rest of the cloth rather than the French seam sticking out from the fabric.

  • @vitthalholkar5755
    @vitthalholkar5755 Před 7 měsíci

    Can u tell me shirt measurements and how do you draft that pattern I want learn it so

  • @larryg6221
    @larryg6221 Před 4 měsíci

    What size stitch should be used on a bespoke shirt?

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před 4 měsíci

      In bespoke, typically much more dense. Often about 1.5 on the machine, if the dial is in numerals, or about B if it's alphabetical. I don't remember the stitches per inch though.

  • @yevgenymashenberg2369
    @yevgenymashenberg2369 Před 7 měsíci

    Wow the amount of depth on the side seems at the waist point reminds me my youth days 😢😊

  • @jsonwoon9275
    @jsonwoon9275 Před 3 měsíci

    I’m really struggling to sew the curved hem on the shirt

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před 3 měsíci

      I actually found this video really helpful to me czcams.com/video/mreUDKlDrUI/video.htmlsi=-CqvavqCcnGwyobv

  • @thom-bennett-tailoring
    @thom-bennett-tailoring Před 2 měsíci

    Great video. Out of interest, where are you based and where did you learn your craft?

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před 2 měsíci +2

      London. I learnt the draft from a video on my university video platform. The make from a domestic-shirt maker. I need to thoroughly remake this video, among others, in light of new knowledge

    • @thom-bennett-tailoring
      @thom-bennett-tailoring Před 2 měsíci

      @@caffeinatedtailor London, cool. I ask as I am looking for a shirtmaker to collaborate with. Do you work for yourself? I'm over in Bristol.

  • @lasersight70
    @lasersight70 Před rokem +1

    Pardon my ignorance; I've done precious little sewing in my life. The only time I ever had to sew a button hole was for a quick 3 day project in a college class where the professor showed us how to do it on a sewing machine. is there a reason you do it by hand?

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před rokem +2

      You definitely can

    • @lasersight70
      @lasersight70 Před rokem +1

      @@caffeinatedtailor I was going to ask why you might hand sew it instead, but I just found your video on that topic. Thanks for the reply!

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před rokem +2

      @@lasersight70 I actually misread at first. I thought you asked if one could sew a *button* by machine.
      Sewing a buttonhole by machine is fine too, especially on shirts if you have the machinery for that.
      Although like you've said I have touched the topic of hand sewing buttonholes by hand.

    • @testnametestsurname1032
      @testnametestsurname1032 Před rokem

      @@caffeinatedtailor Hello. Can you elaborate on your favorite interlining materials for the different parts of a dress shirt?

    • @caffeinatedtailor
      @caffeinatedtailor  Před rokem

      @@testnametestsurname1032 I use the same canvas for each part of my shirt here. I wouldn't say I have a favourite, the one linked in the description is just the only one I found.
      Also you'll mostly find people using fusible interfacing rather than a shirt canvas which I have no idea about either.
      I guess this doesn't really help at all..