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The Caffeinated Tailor
United Kingdom
Registrace 9. 07. 2018
Sharing my notes on bespoke tailoring.
What's knowledge worth if it can't be shared.
What's knowledge worth if it can't be shared.
Raw Audio - Bespoke Trouser Drafting
A preview I suppose of my lastest attempt at a trouser drafting guide. The funniest thing is I'm not going to use this take, the draft is wrong.
thecaffeinatedtailor
thecaffeinatedtailor
zhlédnutí: 411
Video
Original Audio - Mark Stitching a Bespoke Jacket
zhlédnutí 546Před 2 měsíci
Some people will say there aren't enough mark stitches, others will say there are too many mark stitches and others still will say what are those white stitches. I've seen other videos in this kind of format that are simply enjoyable to watch, so I figured I would like to make one since I had the camera stuff out anyway.
Mark Stitching a velvet suit - Original audio
zhlédnutí 322Před 2 měsíci
I'm just sorta padding some easy content that people might like in the in-between period of overhauling the channel. Then there will be a video about velvet as well.
Bespoke Jacket Finishing Part 13/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 694Před 4 měsíci
Having completely made the jacket we are finishing it. Almost exclusively hand sewing. There’s really nothing to say. There are a couple of videos left to press the jacket and put on the buttons. You need buttonhole twist, and ideally a silk skein. But silk skeins are expensive, I have always used either waxed twist or waxed machine thread. Buttonhole video: Sham buttonhole video: czcams.com/vi...
Attaching the Sleeves Part 12/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 533Před 4 měsíci
Here we are attaching the sleeves having put on the collar. We need the sleeves, the jacket and some sleeve head if you want a strong rope shoulder. Bespoke Jacket Making playlist: czcams.com/play/PLPXf7sROHfVum5lAl8XCHWBXs_OmdPbRZ.html If you are confused at any point look through this playlist, ask a question in the comments or PM me on IG. czcams.com/play/PLPXf7sROHfVsQqL218SZ-LgmoTv_pScyd.h...
Trouser Fork Piece | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 450Před 5 měsíci
Trouser Fork Piece | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Attaching the Collar Part 11/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 771Před 5 měsíci
Attaching the Collar Part 11/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Making the Sleeves Part 10/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 621Před 6 měsíci
Making the Sleeves Part 10/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Attaching the Fronts and Back Part 9/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 705Před 6 měsíci
Attaching the Fronts and Back Part 9/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Bespoke Jacket Ticket Pocket | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 507Před 7 měsíci
Bespoke Jacket Ticket Pocket | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Applying the Facing Part 8/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 557Před 7 měsíci
Applying the Facing Part 8/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Hand Sewing shirt buttonholes | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 548Před 7 měsíci
Hand Sewing shirt buttonholes | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Making the Facing Part 7/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 757Před 7 měsíci
Making the Facing Part 7/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
The Best Handsewn Shirt Buttonholes | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 842Před 7 měsíci
The Best Handsewn Shirt Buttonholes | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Canvasing the Forepart Part 6/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 8 měsíci
Canvasing the Forepart Part 6/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Making a Cup Carrier | Spare Cloth Projects
zhlédnutí 254Před 8 měsíci
Making a Cup Carrier | Spare Cloth Projects
Collar Preparation Part 5/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 8 měsíci
Collar Preparation Part 5/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Making the Back Part 4/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 599Před 8 měsíci
Making the Back Part 4/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Perfect Bespoke Jacket Pockets | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 742Před 9 měsíci
Perfect Bespoke Jacket Pockets | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Preparing a Side-Body Forepart | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 346Před 9 měsíci
Preparing a Side-Body Forepart | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Preparing the Forepart 3/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 794Před 9 měsíci
Preparing the Forepart 3/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Mark Stitching & Building Canvas Part 2/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 993Před 9 měsíci
Mark Stitching & Building Canvas Part 2/13 | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Jacket Making Part 1/13 - Cutting | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 10 měsíci
Jacket Making Part 1/13 - Cutting | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Materials to Make a Bespoke Jacket | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 10 měsíci
Materials to Make a Bespoke Jacket | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Altering a Bespoke Jacket Pattern | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 10 měsíci
Altering a Bespoke Jacket Pattern | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Draft a Jacket w/ Your Measurements | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 10 měsíci
Draft a Jacket w/ Your Measurements | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Cutting Out a Check Suit | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
zhlédnutí 608Před 10 měsíci
Cutting Out a Check Suit | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Fast, Easy Forepart Dart | Jacket Additions
zhlédnutí 333Před 11 měsíci
Fast, Easy Forepart Dart | Jacket Additions
How to Add a Bespoke Coat-hook Tab | Jacket Projects
zhlédnutí 709Před 11 měsíci
How to Add a Bespoke Coat-hook Tab | Jacket Projects
Daks Tops Trousers | Trouser Projects
zhlédnutí 837Před 11 měsíci
Daks Tops Trousers | Trouser Projects
Hi! Did u ever find a sourcer for riri zippers?
@@laurisalmela9888 no, but a fellow I worked with did briefly. They had a strange locking mechanism that made them a small pain to operate and they weren't much smoother than yyk curved zips, if at all
Don't we need extra fabric as seam allowance on the shoulder, armhole and side seam?
@@aadityathapaliya5966 no
@@caffeinatedtailor May I know the reason for not adding in, if there is any or it's just standard practice
@@aadityathapaliya5966 I'd say standard practise, but it's because the front edge, hem and neck generally need to be the shape and length that the finished product will be.
@@caffeinatedtailor Thanks
How can we add a lapel to this draft is it like extending lapel part out from the break line or seaming it separately ?
@@aadityathapaliya5966 on a waistcoat it typically gets made and seamed separately
@@caffeinatedtailor Thanks Sir for answering my question
56:15 why did you cut the inlay off ?
@@pureaquafina4732 that time; to make it easier to sew. I didn't expect to need it again. If I wanted to lengthen the lining it would leave scarring and ideally the length is already correct having done a fitting. I should say I'm trying to find a new waistcoat method that avoids hand stitching the armhole and neck line.
@@caffeinatedtailor i’m trying to figure myself. is wax linen needed in the neck line ?
@@pureaquafina4732 needed, no
What is bodkin and what is it used for? I found Bodkin listed as tools in many of the tailoring books. Could you please let me know how it looks ?
@@aadityathapaliya5966 not totally sure, but it seems to me like a hair clip/Bobby pin but bigger. You can trap a length of thread in it and it can be dropped through a loop to turn it out, like the thread method of turning out a belt loop.
Ok I don't know what the person who told me a bodkin was was on, but I don't think I just described a bodkin. Following A Google Search A bodkin seems to be similar to an awl or bradawl.
Ok last try; "a blunt needle used for threading ribbon". It doesn't necessarily have a use in bespoke tailoring, but there Are ways to use it.
@@caffeinatedtailor Thank you Sir
Is it preferable to sacrifice a bit of grain in order to get polka dots to align horizontally around the upper armband of a dress, because if on the straight grain there is travel of almost the distance between dots. Or should it be ok because it’s going around a curved body? Keep going ? I won’t see it while wearing it, but others could. PS. I bought the Kai 7280 scissors you have (because the rotary cutters were constantly getting nicked up and dull and was getting expensive to keep having to buy new ones) - and Wow! These are so nice! I don’t regret the expense one bit! Thank you for the recommendation. They are the jaguars of the scissor world! 🐈⬛. No more rotary cutters for me! ❤
@@Browncata thank you, I'm glad you like them. You can definitely sacrifice grain alignment in cases for the pattern. I've been told in some cases that the sleeve will be put off the grain to make sure the check is horizontal around the arm.
@@caffeinatedtailorfantastic -thank you for taking the time to offer reassurance and instruction. Helps a lot. 3 dimensions looks odd on 1 dimensional paper. May you get no caffeine jitters tomorrow! Have a swell day. 😻✂️💖
Do you have a video on buttoned flies circa 1930? Asking for a friend 😅❤
I don't have any guide on button flies yet, but when I do it won't be tied to a period. It will just be my favoured method of the numerous ones I've seen/tried. Unfortunately making said guide isn't anywhere in the diary yet, but it's on the to do list
Sir please make a video basic body for mens
What does that even mean
Sir men's basic body pattern drafting video.😊
@@masudteachthrive5597 czcams.com/video/iJX1uP59yBo/video.htmlsi=rMigye4dmo6vnlt6 .. like this one?
Thank you sir 😊
Thank you sir 😊
Is that Tailors soap specially made to be used on banrol or it is a regular laundry soap bar ?
I think a regular laundry soap bar can be used. That specific brand /type of soap just happens to be the best I know of.
@@caffeinatedtailorThank you for the information
The world is a much better place with you in it. Keep up the great work ! Any chance of you designing a feminine woman’s bow tie pattern for modest dress?I’d like one.
I'm not much of a designer, the bowtie I did was as standard as I was able to make
I tried the guterman denim thread for shirt buttonholes which looks quite good. It is thicker than regular thread but not as thick as the typical silk buttonhole threads used for trousers and coats etc.
You are doing a very commendable job.
Understood everything but what's the purpose of keeping belt loop at CB purpose of brearer on crotch when there's already a crotch guard attached
I'm just illustrating options that you can choose
Great idea! It would be a thoughtful addition for you to add gratis with your bespoke custom orders - that the cup holder would match the suit you made. In fact, in a weird kind of way, it would be ironic if this is what your legacy turns out to be. Because I can see every Wall Street business person carrying these. Then it would just take off and you’ll be doing hundreds a day. YOU ARE THE CAFFEINATED TAILOR!!! This is your claim to fame.! Maybe a pocket with an absorbable napkin in fancy contrasting colors. All bespoke of course. You need to have your own corporate monogram initial TCT - because that is how people will pay more if it’s from you! ❤ No joke, I am dead serious. 🧐 The fancy selvedge brand just ups the high-end quality even more. Get it all from your bespoke friends now, because that is going to create a demand for selvedge and there won’t be enough to go around. People may buy lining just for the selvedge!!! 😅 You are brilliant! Thank you for posting your life and thoughts and personality. Big fan!!!❤
First time of watching , what a talent , lovely. How long did it take you to master tailoring. Thanks for posting video.
I've been learning for maybe 4 years by now. But this video I'm not too happy with anymore, it needs to be updated. Thanks though
You could technically do this with foam if you wanted to I feel like you would be a lot better
Aye, could be a more uniform finish
Yo, at around 31:10 when drafting the curve of the undersleeve, do you measure starting from the top sleeve measurement or from the top sleeve measurement minus 2?
The top sleeve measurement minus 2, that is correct
Thanks for the timely clarification! Just discovered your channel a few days ago and am finding it so helpful
Thanks.
I enjoy the topic, but I just couldn't finish watching it after about 1 minute. Good luck with improving your skills. You're young and on the right path.
I don't blame you, but.. how old is this video now
@@caffeinatedtailor Perhaps old enough to be removed or replaced with a more developed one? I happened across this one. Any links of newer ones you'd suggest? Thanks.
Bro you literally out here doing God's work. Very helpful video
If the fellow has a beer belly and prefers to wear his trousers under that part, how would you alter the pattern? Just lowering the fly area?
Yes, that would be my first thought. Though you have to think about suspension and keeping them up there
@@caffeinatedtailor thank you I will try it.
Can i buy this pattern plz
Buy my trouser pattern?
Yes sir also buy shirt pattern so hot it can
@@salimpasha7536 can you find me on Instagram to discuss this please?
There is one improvement to your pocket, do away with the seam at the base of the pocket lining, as it tends to tear over time due to the strain at the base of the pocket bag. Use a Vee Fold Pocket Bag design, where a Vee fold is at the base of the pocket, avoiding a weak seam. I have many Vee Fold Pocket linings which have remained intact over decades of use, with coins & keys in them too.
Yes I've started doing that in my jacket pockets that are otherwise just being held in place with a single line of stitching. Having the fold below it I assume will improve the longevity.
Fantastic!!
I recommend that you use a vice grip to flatten out the denim seams. Just apply it to the seam for a few seconds and you’ll be able to stitch over the connecting seams easily.
Oh vice grip is a good idea
But not nearly as satisfying as it probably was 🔨🔨🔨!
Thanks for the great content! However, I am missing something here: Both legs are cut identical at the waist and both the fly and the fly guard are sewn at a small cm SA. But then when you measure the half waist on the right leg, you start 7mm inwards, while on the left leg you measure until the edge at the center front. Those two cannot be identical by design - is the standard process to adjust the center back on one/both legs anyway?
The usual idea is that both centre fronts become a whole seam allowance by the time it's finished. So the fly is sewn at a small SA, then as it's folded over it becomes the whole SA. The bearer/zip side with the overlap it should work out. That and marking the waist measure onto the waistband any extra length will get eased across the back trouser.
I see a very detailed manual/book being written by you in the future!!! Such treasures of knowledge and experience need to be preserved for future generations- who will hopefully dress much better than popular culture does now. This cheap trash now can’t stay popular for much longer. The pendulum must swing back to wholesome quality - and you Caffeinated Tailor will be there to help them along!!! ❤
I am not quite sure as to why watching this gives me a great deal of joy!!! 🔨🔨🔨but it does! Ps I’m on my 11th hand buttonhole. 😊. Thank you for all of your interesting videos and sharing with us what you have learned. If you ever come to the USA, we should all meet at a coffee shop and chat! It would be fun! Especially if people made fancy outfits. 😊
It was very pleasant to do ⚒️
My neighbour will go mad if I do this. lol
Они в чем то провинились? 😢
so ok bro... you down...
Hi, im a bit lost at 28:42 what do you mean with "half our cuff meassurement + 2cm"? Since that (acording to the meassurements in the description) would be 43+2cm, but in the video you mark 16cm (14+2)
That was a miscommunication on my part. I'm tending towards a standard of 15cm 6" cuff measure. There is no cuff (wrist) measurement in the description, the one you're referring is the total length of half back to the wrist.
Do you have any shop where you sell your suits
No shop, but if you want something commissioned you can reach out.
Ive started watching your videos, where can i contact you to ask you questions tailoring etc and few other things
Instagram, but you can also comment anywhere.
Start wearing gloves when you use strong cleaners. I get nasty contact dermatitis, too. Hope you got some good cream for those hands, mate. Colloidal Oatmeal will work wonders for helping repair your skin, but seriously invest in some disposable nitrile gloves and wear them when you clean.
May I kindly ask what do you mean by “overhaul”? And may I kindly add these videos are absolutely one-of-kind in the CZcams space and that they are free is a gift from heaven you surely spend a great deal of time and money on. I appreciate everything you make and excited for this overhaul!
I've learned a lot since some of the older videos, so I want to catch all of them up to where I am now. But it will take time.
Another overhaul hey? For what it's worth, this channel's videos are the best, most comprehensive, and most authoritative tailoring resource that I've found on CZcams. Looking forward to seeing what you've got in store for us.
Ikr. There's always something new to add.
Do you have a pattern drafting book
No, but it's on the agenda. As well as a guidebook for the rest of my content. Issue is I don't have time right now and I don't expect to have time in the immediate future. I'm re-evaluating the situation in September and then march again. So don't hold your breath, unfortunately.
Great video. Out of interest, where are you based and where did you learn your craft?
London. I learnt the draft from a video on my university video platform. The make from a domestic-shirt maker. I need to thoroughly remake this video, among others, in light of new knowledge
@@caffeinatedtailor London, cool. I ask as I am looking for a shirtmaker to collaborate with. Do you work for yourself? I'm over in Bristol.
Amazing tutorial Thank youuu!🤎
So that's how it's done.
What's the purpose of this hook & bar, vs. a (high quality) clamp type?
This type is just more appropriate for the specific construction method. There's no reason you couldn't use a clamp type if you'd like to.
your work is beautiful - you deserve beautiful tools as well - and this is exquisite. This machine is therapeutic to watch on a loop. Very soothing! Thank you for sharing!
maybe you favor your one dominant leg over the other and it has more muscles than the other one?
I really wanted to know that form where you learn tailoring
Try again?
@@caffeinatedtailorLCF
Thanks. Excellent detail and teaching.
Hey i am having a problem with my pleated trousers where the pleats on the right leg always expand and doesnt sit flat but the pleats on the left sits perfectly flat
Without seeing them I couldn't say much, but it's possible the top of the pleat isn't sitting level with the waistline. That'd be my first guess.
@@caffeinatedtailor where can i send you the pics?
@@caffeinatedtailor i think i am not sewing the pocket lining correctly bcs on the left side the lining is stitches under the fly guard but on the right side its just hanging from waistband
@@SAHILKHAN91972 with the pocket that will happen sometimes if the pocket is large or the front trouser is small. I don't expect that specifically is the issue. It happens on my own trousers because of my preferred pocket bag size and the size of my front. If the pocket bag is involved; the pocket may be pulled too high as it's attached to the waistband. It could be pulling on the sideseam which could make it look like the pleat is hanging open.
@@SAHILKHAN91972 Instagram
thanks man i know this is a lot of work, i follow'd you vids on making a trouser and it came out very nice really appreciate it
Good to hear, thank you
Thanks for you work! It is very useful!