important with the sleeve, firstly I'm never doing a false forearm again, but more importantly the top sleeve run needs to curve more before the top. It's too straight in this video. It's better in this post: instagram.com/reel/Ct1ZCFGuqpt/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
I'm loving how clear and concise you are with these videos. Super educational. I might be missing it in the videos everytime but what exactly are you referring to by "scale"? Thanks.
Remember when drafting sleeve, scale is the whole measurement of the arm hole, not the chest measurement anymore. That mistake cost me a whole day trying to figure out haha.
Hi, im a bit lost at 28:42 what do you mean with "half our cuff meassurement + 2cm"? Since that (acording to the meassurements in the description) would be 43+2cm, but in the video you mark 16cm (14+2)
That was a miscommunication on my part. I'm tending towards a standard of 15cm 6" cuff measure. There is no cuff (wrist) measurement in the description, the one you're referring is the total length of half back to the wrist.
No, but it's on the agenda. As well as a guidebook for the rest of my content. Issue is I don't have time right now and I don't expect to have time in the immediate future. I'm re-evaluating the situation in September and then march again. So don't hold your breath, unfortunately.
Yo, at around 31:10 when drafting the curve of the undersleeve, do you measure starting from the top sleeve measurement or from the top sleeve measurement minus 2?
You want to pivot the shape of the pocket from its centre usually. It's much better for the front dart to go through the pocket, rather than to make it shorter. It's basically the same as taking into account any slight slant, but more extreme. The pocket still goes straight down into the jacket.
@@caffeinatedtailor I see, thanks a lot. Olso, props for the nice metodology, im a short guy and all the other pattern making videos i found use a lot of arbitrary measurements so the pattern "breaks" but didn't have any problem with yours.
Funny, I was asked the same thing earlier. I'm starting to get the impression that UAL had to make it themselves to be metric and simple enough to follow. They don't source it; which I'd expect them to; which does lead me to believe that it's theirs.
@@caffeinatedtailorI’ve mostly worked in the fast fashion side of patternmaking which breaks my heart ngl so traditional tailoring and your channel really helps. if you get the time to make a pdf out of it i’d be willing to buy. Shirts, pants, jacket and vest. Your way of explaining is also pretty nice. Have a great day my caffeinated friend.
That should be the seam allowance on the shoulder lines. So I took off 2 cm/ 3/4" from the top sleeve measure since that's what it'll be when the shoulder seam is sewn.
Ah the immortal question. I don't remember whether I said it here, but there is some seam allowance. The neck line, front edge, hems and centre back seam all don't have SA. You have to add inlay to those seams and they are sewn on those lines.
important with the sleeve, firstly I'm never doing a false forearm again, but more importantly the top sleeve run needs to curve more before the top. It's too straight in this video. It's better in this post:
instagram.com/reel/Ct1ZCFGuqpt/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Thank you, for yet another outstandingly helpful video!
I love the quality of your videos thank you! I finished my first practice trowsers made of muslin recently your videos made the difference!
I'm loving how clear and concise you are with these videos. Super educational. I might be missing it in the videos everytime but what exactly are you referring to by "scale"? Thanks.
It's just half of the chest measurement here.
Remember when drafting sleeve, scale is the whole measurement of the arm hole, not the chest measurement anymore.
That mistake cost me a whole day trying to figure out haha.
Fantastic work. Keep it up - This is a hidden gem!
excellent job keep it up
I love the way u teach
Have you considered doing your drafting in these videos with a Sharpie™ pen which would make it easier to see your work? Thanks.
Hi, im a bit lost at 28:42 what do you mean with "half our cuff meassurement + 2cm"? Since that (acording to the meassurements in the description) would be 43+2cm, but in the video you mark 16cm (14+2)
That was a miscommunication on my part. I'm tending towards a standard of 15cm 6" cuff measure.
There is no cuff (wrist) measurement in the description, the one you're referring is the total length of half back to the wrist.
Do you have a pattern drafting book
No, but it's on the agenda.
As well as a guidebook for the rest of my content. Issue is I don't have time right now and I don't expect to have time in the immediate future. I'm re-evaluating the situation in September and then march again.
So don't hold your breath, unfortunately.
Yo, at around 31:10 when drafting the curve of the undersleeve, do you measure starting from the top sleeve measurement or from the top sleeve measurement minus 2?
The top sleeve measurement minus 2, that is correct
Thanks for the timely clarification! Just discovered your channel a few days ago and am finding it so helpful
When you are drafting, and refer to “1/4 Scale, 1/2 Scale or 1/8 Scale” which length of the body, or pattern, are you referring to?
0:39
@@caffeinatedtailor thank you!
Thank you for fantastic video! What is the difference between hip and seat measurement?
Seat prominence is the widest circumference around the ass, hip is the same for the hips
Thank you!
If one wanted to make the pockets slanted, how would the drafting process differ?
You want to pivot the shape of the pocket from its centre usually. It's much better for the front dart to go through the pocket, rather than to make it shorter.
It's basically the same as taking into account any slight slant, but more extreme.
The pocket still goes straight down into the jacket.
@@caffeinatedtailor I see, thanks a lot. Olso, props for the nice metodology, im a short guy and all the other pattern making videos i found use a lot of arbitrary measurements so the pattern "breaks" but didn't have any problem with yours.
Adoro!
Show!
Brasil❤.
quick question
what system do you follow or do you have your own that you've kinda just adapted over the time ?
Funny, I was asked the same thing earlier. I'm starting to get the impression that UAL had to make it themselves to be metric and simple enough to follow.
They don't source it; which I'd expect them to; which does lead me to believe that it's theirs.
@@caffeinatedtailorI’ve mostly worked in the fast fashion side of patternmaking which breaks my heart ngl so traditional tailoring and your channel really helps. if you get the time to make a pdf out of it i’d be willing to buy. Shirts, pants, jacket and vest. Your way of explaining is also pretty nice. Have a great day my caffeinated friend.
at 25:25 was the top sleeve measurement 25.7cm or 21.7cm?
21.7
Is something subtracted from the measurement as it looks like almost 10” on the tape?
That should be the seam allowance on the shoulder lines. So I took off 2 cm/ 3/4" from the top sleeve measure since that's what it'll be when the shoulder seam is sewn.
Is there seam allowance included?
Ah the immortal question. I don't remember whether I said it here, but there is some seam allowance.
The neck line, front edge, hems and centre back seam all don't have SA. You have to add inlay to those seams and they are sewn on those lines.
@@caffeinatedtailor ah inlays, I see. On the other areas, is it a 1cm allowance?
@@MrMusickey yes all 1cm