Understanding Bespoke Shirt Measurements With Wil Whiting | Kirby Allison
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Kirby Allison, Founder of Hanger Project, had the opportunity to visit Wil Whiting in London. Wil Whiting is a bespoke shirtmaker out of London aiming to redefine the bespoke shirt.
Wil Whiting is aimed at redefining the bespoke shirt, focussed predominantly on quality to ensure each customer receives a shirt that encompasses the true meaning of the term "bespoke," as known with the traditional British tailoring community.
Visit his site here:
wilwhiting.com/
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Fascinating, there seems to be just as much to designing a shirt as there is to designing a jacket! Love his trousers, it seems traditional high waists are making a comeback. I always have thought they have a more elegant look over the more modern hip type waist. Thanks Kirby, another great video.
It does look really good. What is the rise measurement of his trousers?
ianmedium love high waisters.
@@chunkychinn pp
I know this comment was from two years ago, but if you were looking for a affordable high waisted trouser with side adjusters like he was wearing i would suggest checking out Spier And Mackay, high quality materials, multiple taper options and optional hemming for a ten dollar upcharge.
@@adamcuthbert9498 Oh that´s great, Thank you Adam, I will be sure to take a look!
Wil, you were my favorite on Star Trek next gen.
I'm at time marker 14:18, and, already, this is easily the most informative video regarding the details of getting the shoulders proper to the person. Thank you, Kirby & Wil.
Kirby, this was a great video. Even though Wil is young relative to other bespoke shirtmakers, his critical approach to shirtmaking - questioning why and how each step is done - is something I like to hear about.
In particular, it was very informative to hear Wil talk about stitch density how fabric type should be a factor in how high it should be. If he has time for another video, please let him talk in length about his research, give him a whiteboard and a marker and let him go wild.
He could teach a PHd course.
Knowledge, Inspiration..and the flair of the Masters themselves. Great package! Thanks.
Completely relate, graduated from computational science and found my calling in bespoke shoe making.
It's how magic happens sometimes... in the most unexpected ways! Someone who had been planning to go into shirtmaking probably would have conformed to the traditional approach instead of uprooting it, like Wil has.
Of I could start my career over with no concern over money and the amount of time to be proficient I would def get into bespoke clothing or shoes. So fascinating
Great video. We hope to see the shirts when its all ready. Nice Video, Kirby.
Outstanding discussion. I learned a great deal about the shirt making process.
Thanks!
Kirby - I absolutely love the suit, shirt and tie you’re wearing in this video. Gorgeous.
Great video as always- especially Kirby sipping his tea
Great as always!
I be been fascinated by this video. Very awesome!
Thanks for commenting!
Very excellent video. I don’t think I’ve ever had a shirt that fits perfectly. The Interaction between you and Wil was excellent , you had good questions and he really delved into his approach to shirt making. My wife has tailored many beautiful shirts for me through our 37 years of marriage and her work is flawless. Nonetheless, she is not a fitter, she uses premade patterns that are in themselves poorly planned/constructed , her major gripe . So I was drawn to the precision and insight of his work. Thank you.
That's exceptional! It must be very special to have your wife taken the care to alter your shirts!
Great job, Kirby. This was extremely informative. I have naturally large traps as well, so I related to his process in shaping the shoulders. Most off the rack shirts offer more squared off shoulders.
He did some even more sculpting at the second fitting.
Excellent video as usual, very informative and fascinating. I do have a question though.
He mentions something about knowing how to iron a shirt, is there a specific way to iron a shirt?
I never really thought about it before but he seemed to have a specific method in mind based on what he said.
Great video! It is obvious that Wil gives a lot of thinking to every aspect of a shirt. I am looking forward to see the final fitting and the result.
We were able to film the second fitting the last time we were in London... so it's already been shot. Should be airing sometime in November.
The Hanger Project I`ll be waiting) Thank you for the great content.
Who wants Kirby’s hand me downs. The line forms behind me . Mr GQ always sharply dressed.
It seems I'm beginning to "grow" out a lot of things these days... hahaha
The Hanger Project
Hook me up Kirby
this guy is an artist
Is there an award for the most informative men's style channel? 1. The Hanger Project, 2. Gentlemen's Gazette, 3...
Check out Sartorial Talks also.
Yes!
Flattered!!🙏
Yeah, Mr Hugo is taking it to another level... I approve
My top 4: Hangar Project, Sartorial talks, Real Men Real Style and The Kavalier
This is the most Kirby has been when it comes to a casual look
Thank you Kirby
Good video Kirby. I have one question. How should unfused collar be ironed differently comparing to a fused collar?
Hi guys, love you channel so much information. Can I ask what your recommendation is for the amount of ease you would add for a euro, slim or classic fit shirt. And, Wil is fantastic, would love to have the knowledge he has in bespoke. Thanks for any info. Carlin Martin
Wil seems to be more relaxed this time.
Kirby that was absolutely brilliant. I think Wil was a bit nervous but he has not need to be, what a very talented young man I hope he goes from strength to strength. One factor tho please please only have the music on at the beginning and end, it was very distracting trying to listen to Will who’s very quiet anyway. Thankyou.
I thought Kirby seemed nervous not wil
Hello! Great video mr Kirby! I wanted to ask what's the title of the book mentioned in 23:06 ?
I too would like to know the name of this book!
Thanks Kirby, that is really a neat process when it comes to making a shirt, I like the way this guy thinks and works. Thanks for sharing.
He has a very technical approach, which I've really appreciated. Check out his instagram. Some beautiful stuff there.
The Hanger Project Will do Kirby. Thanks my friend.
Is there a video showing the measurement process? It seems like it all starts with a first fitting
For someone who makes beautiful shirts he sure minimizes how much is on show with such very high trousers
Brave choice on those high-wasted pants. It takes a confident man to pull that off.
Interesting series on bespoke items Kirby. Keep it up.
Could you check the name of the book on fabrics. And if possible an ISBN number. I'd be interested in reading it.
Thanks.
A lot of these books are out of print... but I'll ask Wil.
The Hanger Project Thanks!
Curious to know the name of this book as well?
That would be a giggle, having a shirt un suitable for a tie, going out, and hitting a restaurant that requires shoes, jackets and tie! Lol 😅
Tq sar
How much does a shirt cost?
He has three price ranges that depend on the amount of handwork. You'll have to check his website.
How many coffees does this guy make!?
No kidding though, great video Kirby.
Well, each V60 only made two small cups, and we were a crew of four. He was very hospitable.
What are this white trousers
Looks like cavalry twill
Does he make Navy shirts for war though?
Hah, nice to see him making a good V60... scales and all.
It was an exceptional cup of coffee!
The Hanger Project well it’s good to know that style and taste extends fully through someone’s life.
Having had to store my espresso machine for a year v60 has been my saviour!
That and wardrobe boxes !
17:46 😂😂😂😂😂
12:28 bit afraid of needles Mr. Allison?
I'm afraid that even mention of a fused collar is heresy in a bespoke shirt and it is no mitigation to say it is used because a client does not know how to iron.
Maybe you missed this comment from Wil “I was taught certain things and told to accept them without question.” The other variations of the shacket, the buttonless top collar fit in with Wil’s daring approach to shirt making which includes darts and fused collars. This is where I see Wil’s stuff. www.adamoflondon.com/welcome/
This stodgy neo com site from Texas is “an old fashioned band of married men, looking up to me for encouragement. It was so-so.” - Bowie.
The fit on his shirts seems a bit tight for my tastes.
Craig Rolle Purely dictates by the customer. Part of the initial conversation.
Point taken.
“I did my masters degree in Computer Science. I worked in finance; I travelled. I considered the sordid meaningless trajectory of humankind. I memorized the Quran, Yoga-Sutras, and the Dhammapada. I made love - to a beautiful woman. But after all of it, I realized that shirtmaking, verily, is alone that which would bring me happiness.” - Wil Whiting
Please no music
Bespoke doesn’t mean it’s quality there’s good shirts quality shirts in golden mile
I respect the art and craft, but I have seen regular guys with superb physiques look better with a Walmart shirt because in the end the body is more important than the cloth.
First
a tie with a shirt for no tie
Washing must be a problem.
Ok wrong by me:
“I’m very particular about shrinkage - I pre-treat the fabric twice before it’s cut, and once the shirt is made I want the customer to ‘wash and wear’, because I know I’m not going to change how people wash their clothes.”
Myrslokstok Wil is incredibly scientific... he takes into account all of these things in his own methodical obsessive way!
Sansabelt slacks? oh no...
Supposed to be one of the world's best shirt makers,!! Says who!!? His own shirt is pulling on shoulder area, meaning his shoulder slope is not angled correctly. If you watch him actually cutting out a pattern or sewing, it's evident that he Doesn't sew or pattern cut for a living, he's like a. Beginner, really slow. Any bespoke tailor or shirt tailor is totally nimble and fast with sewing and pattern cutting
This guy just jets around the world marketing his brand and not actually cutting or sewing each bespoke shirt!!.
Even this Whiting admitted he has a team behind him making all the shirts.. It's these people who are the real artisans.. He should video these skilled sewers and pattern cutters!!
I design, pattern cut and, make every design myself for men and women...
Agreed, his shirt is horrific
@@cianmacken5475 it never ceases to amaze me how these so called 'influencers' use these hyped up craftsman who are not craftsman or real artisans at all !!!. This Wil whiting was up until a few years ago ,a computer trading geek and all of a sudden is labelled as the worlds best shirt maker !!.if you watch him in any videos he uploaded ,you can evidently see how slow he is at cutting and sewing ,this clearly shows he does not really sew shirts or even cuts shirts. As a fashion designer and tailor myself ,i design ,cut and sew every design you see. I'm currently making a series of new videos on how to cut and sew women and mens attire. This series includes: Draping a hip block and waistblock . Sewing a sheath dress from beginning to completion. Draping a tailored waistcoat for Men and Women. sewing a bespoke waistcoat . Cutting a bespoke mens trousers. Making a pair of mens bespoke trousers.
My first video is ready to buy 'Draping a waistblock and Hipblock for women Part 1 . This will be uploaded to my new ecommerce website which will be live on January 21st. www.jojoremeny.com .Later in the new year ,i will be making a series on shirt making for men and women ..
@@jojoremeny Maybe Kirby thinks expensive equals "best" .
After watching this I contacted this guy and they were so rude. Typical British service I guess. No wonder it’s a toilet place.
He meticulous with so many aspects of his life it seems but the guy can’t get a beard brush and make his facial hair not look god awful?
disappointing