How to Make a Bespoke Waistcoat (complete) | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
Vložit
- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- This is a bespoke method of making a waistcoat.
Waistcoat playlist: • Waistcoats
Canvas I used from The Lining Company: www.theliningcompany.co.uk/tr...
Alternative canvas from Mac&Wallis: www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p...
Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
1:33 - Layplanning
The front
2:35 The facing
3:25 Pocket pieces
3:48 The back
5:06 Lining
6:54 - Cutting the canvas
Tracing the canvas
7:59 Cutting the canvas
9:00 - Preparing the canvas
11:32 - Preparing the forepart
The dart
13:48 Preparing the pocket
14:19 - Canvassing the forepart
Aligning
14:46 1st Baste
15:35 2nd Baste
16:11 3rd Baste
18:02 Singlewelted pocket
20:48 Marking the front edge
21:51 Cutting the front edge
23:56 Preparing the facing
26:11 Attaching the facing
28:05 Setting the facing
33:06 Finishing the facing
37:06 Turning over the armhole
39:12 - Lining the forepart
Applying the lining
41:28 Trimming the lining
41:39 Preparing the lining for finishing
44:12 Finishing the lining
45:54 - Backstrap
48:23 - Waistcoat back
Trimming the lining
48:52 Preparing the back lining
50:51 Making the darts
53:39 Applying the backstrap
55:24 Joining the hems
56:59 Reinforcing the back neck
57:34 - Attaching the front and back
Attaching the side seams
59:00 Attaching the shoulders
1:00:32 Sewing the seams
1:02:57 Basting the back armhole
1:06:15 Basting the neckline
1:06:57 Lining the neckline
1:07:37 Lining the armhole
1:10:09 Vent bit at the bottom
1:10:29 - Finishing
The armhole
1:11:48 The vent bit at the bottom
1:12:28 Neckline
1:14:57 Backstrap
1:18:35 Bar tacking
1:19:39 - Buttons
Marking button locations
1:20:58 Buttonholes
1:22:02 Buttons
1:24:10 - Final ironing
1:31:41 - Outro
/ tinkertailorsoldierguy Follow for updates and stuff, I guess - Jak na to + styl
Thank you a lot for this!
I am a young dane, who wishes to become a tailor. I cannot get into the tailoring school yet, due to low supply, so I have decided to start from home. This will be my first time making an actual tailored waistcoat, and I am so increadibly happy to have this with me! I have made a few before, but none of them from scratch. Thank you good sir, you are a great inspiration!
Very good video ! Thank you for the time you spent on this tutorial .
excellent, truly bespoke .
This is my new favourite channel
Thank you so much. This detailed instruction is just what I needed.
Amazing video, really step by step tutorial with great result. I spent all day watching this channel. Thank you
Thank you for taking me along on your waistcoat adventure. After watching this and your other videos, because of your exquisite use of precise vocabulary (of equal quality to your work), I dare believe I now have the proper instructions to construct a cassock out of a wonderful teal/tan/brown barleycorn wool I found a good price for on the internet that should be arriving soon with some orange lining. ( I watched this video with the idea to practice on a waistcoat first to get a sense of handling the fabrics). But without your kind and charitable efforts, I probably wouldn’t dare to even try. Thank you very much. May your coffee be always at the proper drinking temperature most suited to your liking. I am in USA and may get a metric ruler just to not complicate following along even further. Have a blessed day.
Amazing job!
you're so great love your style
Thanks, for making this video👍
Keep up the good work 👍👍🙌
Thanks so much for making this video! I have been constructing a waistcoat of my own during the last week following along your instructions here and it has turned out wonderfully! I am a tailors apprentice for womens wear, so a lot of your suggestions and tricks aren't being taught to me, sadly. As a result, I'm very glad to have your channel, as it gives me a small window into the world of men's tailoring. Thank you s much for sharing your experience and expertise and making it so accessible!
Glad to hear it your waistcoat went well, and it's neat you're an apprentice.
And I bet it's not the first time you've been asked if your name has any relation to Bernstein and Banleys
@@caffeinatedtailor actually that's the first time I've heard that one! But no, sadly no relation at all. At least to my knowledge
Ammmmmmazinnng vedio thank you so much very helpful Vedio 🥰
thank you
Thank you very much for all your work, it helps me a lot when I'm working on bespoke clothing. I was wandering if there is any places in the internet or books we can learn how to put lapels on a waistcoat (there is something strange in the back neck I'm unable to understand only based on pictures), if you know anything that can help le I would love to hear it. Thank you very much.
Glad to hear.
The usual way of putting lapels onto waistcoats is to lay it on. So you would make the shape you want the lapel to be and cut that out of new cloth. You put silecia on the back of it and fell stitch the top of the lapel and "collar" to the front of the waistcoat.
I think we machine sew the lapel to the front edge through the silecia. We leave excess cloth on the other side of the front edge to fold along the edge to act as the facing.
Like you say it can be difficult to describe in only words and pictures, but maybe I am filling in some of the blanks. I can't make a video on it anytime soon, though.
Good luck
P.s. I don't know anywhere else you'd be able to find resources, except *maybe* jojo remenys courses. We don't get on well, but it might be what you're looking for.
Otherwise Maurice Sedwell might have more expensive, but thorough courses for what you're looking for.
Great video!! Why did you make the cut in the front panel shoulder seam? I don't recall that being in the excellent drafting video you made. Thank you.
If that was in the canvas (been a while) then it's to create some shape in the chest over the shoulder
Thank you
Can you make a tutorial for a double breasted overcoat? I want to make one, but i can't find a free pattern i like.
I'll get on it as soon as it's kinda feasible.
It shouldn't be too difficult to draft it in a similar way to jackets, just with bigger measurements obviously.
How to measure and cut
Great instruction…by the way has anyone told you that you look like a young Yves Saint Laurent?
One or two.. or about 7 that I can think of. Thank you
Don't we need extra fabric as seam allowance on the shoulder, armhole and side seam?
@@aadityathapaliya5966 no
@@caffeinatedtailor May I know the reason for not adding in, if there is any or it's just standard practice
@@aadityathapaliya5966 I'd say standard practise, but it's because the front edge, hem and neck generally need to be the shape and length that the finished product will be.
@@caffeinatedtailor Thanks
56:15 why did you cut the inlay off ?
@@pureaquafina4732 that time; to make it easier to sew.
I didn't expect to need it again. If I wanted to lengthen the lining it would leave scarring and ideally the length is already correct having done a fitting.
I should say I'm trying to find a new waistcoat method that avoids hand stitching the armhole and neck line.
@@caffeinatedtailor i’m trying to figure myself. is wax linen needed in the neck line ?
@@pureaquafina4732 needed, no
that coffee making you look like old, old man!!🎉🎉
очень сложный подход,лучше выбрать ,технологию люкс
Well.. Google translate was no help understanding that
edit: Got it. If money is no object, then more power to you. For me on the other hand it is a very valuable object.
I literally based my life around not wanting to pay for bespoke suits.
It's satisfying to know that you can look like a King without having to pay a 'Kings Ransom'. Nicer to know that people without money can look as good as those who have it. Your skills speak for themselves. Lovely video.
I would get a new watch strap. For someone trying to be stylish, it looks awful
Who said I was trying to be stylish
So go get one if that’s what you would do.
Why don’t you send him one that is more to your liking. How dare you make a personal comment like that. Maybe it has sentimental value, maybe he likes it, maybe it’s none of your business