Removing Old Grout From Tile
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- čas přidán 12. 11. 2013
- How to remove existing grout from tiled surfaces so you can start over with fresh grout. I'll cover the use of specialty blades for a reciprocating saw, for a multi tool, and for hand held use. Removing old grout doesn't have to be an ordeal if you have the right tools and techniques.
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Great video and great tips. Need to do this in my bathroom and the list of tools and demonstrations were incredibly helpful. Saved me a bunch of time.
Excellent video. Very much appreciate your clear explanations and demonstrations of alternate methods. Thank you so much!
Was ready to spend money on an oscillating tool, found out there's an attachment for my reciprocating saw 😃, thanks you saved me some $$$ sir.
Don't ever pass up an excuse to get a new power tool, peter8488. ;-)
Excellent video. After watching this video I used both tools and can confirm the accuracy of this clip. I used the sawzall on the long straight runs and the multitool in some of the tight spots. Thank you.
Nice! I have a regrout job, this was great for me! Going with the sawzall and getting the dremel for around the cabs. Thanks!
Excellent video. clear, concise and well explained. thank you.
This is just the tutorial I was looking for. Thank you for the clear, simple explanation and demonstration.
You are a natural teacher!
Many thanks
Thanks for uploading this, will help us out!
I just got the tool today. My grout lines are 1/2" and it's making quick work. Thanks for the suggestion for the reciprocating saw!!
Yah I got 1/4 350 ft I'm going with the big saw lol
Thanks for the tip about reversing the oscillating blade
Thanks, very straightforward and helpful!
Excellent and comprehensive explanation thank you.
Great video. Very well presented. Thank you
Thank you sir for the demonstration!!! I don't have the proper reciprocating blade, but I'll try with the oscillating tool and diamond blade.
Good video. I have a reciprocating saw but didn't know there was a specific blade for it!
Getting ready to replace the grout on my sons outdoor kitchen counter top and this is the perfect video I needed. Thank you for making and sharing it.
Great video. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. This DYI'er truly appreciates the help. Good on ya'!
great video! thank you for demonstrating all the different methods! very informative
Excellent, informative video - exactly what I was looking for!
Really well done! Thanks!
Nice video! Thanks for the info.
This helped a lot thanks 👌👍
Nice professional method and explanation.
an hour take all that out? seems a little to optimistic.
but a great video. helped lot's.
cheers.
Thank you for this tutorial!
Thanks, really helpful video 👍
Great information. Thank you.
hard to find a head to head demonstration and explanation. Thanks!
Good video. Thanks.
Kinda funny how the speed of the saw coincides with the fps of the video, making the blade appear stationary.
Yeah, it did look a little weird!
Great explanation, thanks mate! ;-)
32 yrs never knew I could use big ass saw heck I got,a 350ft job thanks,man
Michael Grayson I just got a Job that the customer wants this done . I usually clean and or seal grout and tile , so what did you charge per sqf for this type of work. Thanks
That was super helpful!!!
good tips
Great video
Excellent vid
good video. well done
Some excellent ideas
Awesome information, I’m just ready to re-grout a marble hallway.
If you have true marble tile, then it's good practice to seal the marble before you grout (even if it was sealed previously) so that the grout color and moisture doesn't seep into the marble as it dries.
The original tile job looks really good.
great guide thanks for this
Good Job - Thanks !!! 👍
Great video and demo showing different tools. I would just add that you should be very careful not to got to deep as not to puncture any moisture or water barrier that may be under the tile protecting the underlayment, whatever that might be.
Good point--if you are removing grout inside a shower or tub you need to go easy.
Do they sell different thickness carbide attachments? I'd imagine a thicker grout line would be more difficult to remove.
Brilliant
Excellent. You da man!
Great. Thank you.
Thank you!!!
make sure the output of your vacuum (shop vac) is vented to the great outdoors or you will be cleaning fine grout dust off everything inside. My 5 hour project turned into 7 hours due to massive cleanup of counters and all horizontal surfaces in the area. lesson learned. thanks for the video.
+sddogtrainer I routinely vacuum up dust from sanding spackle as well as dirt from demolition. My tactic is to use a filter bag in addition to the canister filter in my vac. At the end of the day I throw away the filled-up filter bag and use compressed air to blow out anything that got past the bag and into the canister filter. Works like a charm.
+enduringcharm Love my new floor - looks so good so thanks for your terrific video. how do you connect a filter bag to your shop vac? sounds like a good plan
+sddogtrainer My brand of vac and many others provide self-contained bags you can buy at the box stores. They typically fit over the inlet to the body where the hose is attached and tuck in around the canister filter. So, they capture debris as it enters the vacuum. At the end of the day, you pull the bag out and toss it in the trash. Any fine dust that escaped the bag is caught by the canister filter. If your brand doesn't sell bags, you can probably buy a universal filter bag that fits over the canister filter and ties at the top. It acts as a secondary filter, although it's obviously not as convenient as being able to toss the bag and contents away at the end of the day.
Good video thanks, just got floor grout out of a 4x6 room with rock hard grout... Never again 😭😭
Hi, the perimeter of our shower tile floor is grout as well and cracked. Does it make sense after removing it to use caulk this time or better to regrout it? Thanks!
I presume we're talking about the inside shower floor, in other words it's a completely tiled shower? And, you have found loose or cracked grout where the floor meets the walls? Then, yes, a color-matched caulk would be ideal there. However, before you apply that caulk, examine the area carefully to make certain there isn't a problem with the underlayment or tile adhesion.
Great information and just what I needed to know. I was about ready to buy a multi-tool, which I don't really need. I had no idea there were grout removing blades for a reciprocating saw. You saved me a lot of money. Any tips on getting the old thinset up after the tiles are out. I am replacing about 15 cracked tiles. Either way thanks brother.
Just go easy if you use the reciprocating saw attachment--it's pretty aggressive. Getting the old thinset up in order to replace tiles is generally a problem. I typically leave it be because you are likely to damage neighboring tiles or the whole assembly if you start banging around. If you simply must remove some thinset in order to get the height of replacement tiles right, then you can try an angle grinder with a shop vac and a respirator. It's messy. Otherwise, just clean up the old thinset of dust and apply new thinset right over it.
@@enduringcharm Yeah I did a couple a few years back and remember it being a pain. I think I used the premixed thinset or something and it was more like taking up glue. Put the tile in like 25 years ago so. Floor still looks good though and settling is all done so it's worth the effort. Thanks for the additional advice.
Thank you. I wish you would have demonstrated how to approach a full tiled shower. How to get the grout in the corners out without hurting the tile.
The corners are typically overlapped from one direction, though you should check to be sure. So if you are concerned about damage, use a hand tool and scrape out from the one direction. Also, corners are often caulked rather than grouted, which is an option if you can't get all of the old grout out. For regrouting, see here: czcams.com/video/_aja8hfhElI/video.html
Can this method be used for shower walls as well as floors? I'm hoping to keep our wall tiles rather than starting completely from scratch, but I'd also LOVE to get a refreshed look in there!
Yes--you can remove the grout on floors, walls, countertops, etc. with these methods. Be cautious if you have a shower pan, though, not to damage it when you get close.
If the Dremel Oscillator tool would slightly knick the edge of the tile, would it immediately crack? Great video!
Porcelain tile generally has the color going all the way through, while ceramic tile generally has a kind of glaze over the top surface which contains the color and texture. If you get too aggressive with porcelain tile, which is a stronger tile anyway, the damage is likely to be minimal. If you get too aggressive with ceramic tile you could chip off the surface glaze and that could be noticeable.
What is the best grout and sealer to use for replacing deteriorating grout on a kitchen floor? Thank you!!!!
All the major brands, such as Tec, Mapei and Laticrete are fine--there really isn't that much difference in my experience. For sealer, I prefer the pump-spray type over aerosols or liquids. Sealer is not magic, either. It will prevent liquids from soaking into the grout, but ground in dirt particles can still discolor the grout. So, choose your grout color wisely and keep it clean!
What ampage is your reciprocating saw? 10 amps?
Very informative video. Thank you. You could easily do voice over work for Joe Pesci.
Does he amuse you? Is he funny? Funny how? Funny like a clown?
Joe Pesci is witty; watch the movies "good fellas" and "Home Alone I and II ! he's a down to earth kind of bad guy! ha ha ! I love it.
he commands attention, he's witty.
Would newly sealed grout be more difficult to remove? I plan to re-grout and I have read that sealing slate tiles first would make grout application easier because the new grout won't stick to the face of the tile. So I'm thinking about sealing slate tile floor first, and then remove the existing grout, and then put in new grout, and then seal entire surface again afterwards. Is this a reasonable plan? Thanks, if you have time to reply.
Actually, no, I think you should revise your plan! Sealing won't change how easily the old grout comes up but there is no reason to seal before you do the removal. Presumably the tiles were already sealed at least once anyway. You should remove the old grout first, then do a thorough cleaning of the tile. The process of cleaning will also help you determine the condition of the tile. if the water and detergent bead nicely on the surface the tile is well sealed. If the water and detergent soaks in or doesn't bead, then the tile is more porous. In the latter case you could seal the tile before regrouting. In the former case you can probably just grout the tile as is. Be sure and watch my other video about grouting, which shows a method that does not involve long periods of waiting between wiping. after regrouting you can seal both the tile and the grout at the same time.
Thanks for your reply. That's an excellent point regarding using the cleaning process to test the current state of the tiles. I just viewed your "How To Grout Tile: Correct Technique Makes It Easy" video. Very interesting! I've never seen that technique before, although I'm just an amateur DIYer. II'll definitely use it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I'm having trouble finding tips on old (40+ years) grout. A bathroom, white 4x4 tile on the floor and shower walls, 1/4" grout lines that are like cement, which crumbles with light toothbrush scrubbing. Plus a pervasive stale, stagnant water smell, maybe mildew. We want to replace the grout with epoxy grout. Any special considerations for removing grout in a case like this? And do you leave the grout under the toilet untouched, or re-install the toilet? Thanks for your great videos.
Oh, boy. From your description I see several red flags. First, a 4x4 tile is pretty small and typically has a grout line of 1/8" or less. You describe a much wider line, which means you either have sanded grout or actual mortar if it is not tile but a masonry product. More concerning, though, is your description of the small and condition of the grout. Typically in a situation like that the thinset, mortar or adhesive holding the tile down has also failed. And, if the tile is truly 40 years old there's a good chance it was installed over plywood or over a "mud job" on top of plywood. That mildew smell may be the rotted wood underneath or else mold growing under the tile. In any case, I would highly recommend taking a hard and detailed look at the tile adhesion and the substrate after removing some grout to see if you have a bigger problem.
As far as epoxy grout, I think you are on the wrong track. I don't recommend epoxy grout for new installations and definitely not for old ones. It is a two-part system which is very finicky to put down and requires high expertise. It's also expensive. In your situation it could very well seal in mold, mildew or rot by not allowing existing moisture to escape. The look of epoxy grout is also plastic-like, and not very attractive in residential settings. If your tile is indeed still adhered and the substrate is not rotted or wet, I would use a quality sanded cementious grout in the color of your choice. Remove and replace the toilet if possible.
Oh wow, thanks for your advice. It's white ceramic tile, glazed. A brittle, cement-type substance for grout. The smell's not overwhelming, but I notice it. My partner doesn't. There are a few cracked tiles, and we have some spares, so maybe I'll try to replace a couple and examine the underlying situation, like you said. Another DIY-research rabbit hole to go down! Thanks for the warnings about the epoxy grout, too.
Yeah, if you have cracked tile already I would call that another red flag! Ceramic tile is really not ideal for floors anyway. Porcelain tile is stronger, more durable and a better choice. You may find that the wise choice in the long run is to start over with a new tile installation.
Got it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi, Great videos. I'd deeply appreciate a reply. It'd really help me figure something I'm stuck on.
Could you use the corner of the diamond oscillating tool attachment to make clean plunge cuts in porcelain tile?
I have to make some fine rectangular plunge cuts in tile and angle grinders with their 4" circular blades tend to messily over shoot desired right-angle plunge cut-outs.
Well, there are a few things to think about. First, there is a big difference between porcelain and ceramic tile as far as cutting. Porcelain is a denser and more brittle tile which is difficult to cut. Some, with a PEI rating of 4 or 5, really require a wet saw for proper cuts. And, that's what I use for all tile projects. There is no substitute for the clean cut a wet saw can provide, and the control you'll get. When I make a plunge cut for a shower valve in the middle of a tile, I'll use the plunge feature of one of my wet saws, or sometimes push the tile by hand into the blade. If you simply don't have a wet saw or can't justify renting one, then a grinder with a diamond wheel might be a fallback. Cuts should be made outdoors due to the dust. The speed of the blade and the jerkiness of handling the tool can result in a sloppy cut. A multitool with a diamond blade can do wonders for removing grout, but making cuts in tile would be less ideal. The diamond blades are fairly thick and you would find the tool bouncing around on the surface of the tile. Depending on the tile it might not work at all.
I have a suggestion you might try. If you can't manage to get a wet saw on site, you may find that the tile store who sold you the tile has a wet saw permanently set up. They might be willing to make the cuts for you for a nominal fee or even for free. There are also hand-held wet saws you might consider which are not as expensive to buy. In any case, if the cut is important to get accurate, a wet saw is really what you should be using.
@@enduringcharm Thank you so much for taking the time to reply! I appreciate it so much.
I've resolved to rent a quality wet tile saw.
The thing is:
there are a few plunge cuts that I'm looking at that are 2" X 1".
Could a wet tile saw plunge such a small cut? How would you go about making such small plunge cuts as clean as possible?
Now I'm wondering what you could be cutting around! A two inch by one inch hole would be a challenge with any saw. When I'm cutting a hole for a pipe, such as a shower head, I'll use a diamond hole saw, which I also made a video about. If I know I'll need a square hole of a small size I'll plan my tile layout so the cuts end up on the edge of a tile. You have to pick your battles. If you absolutely have to cut a small square hole in the middle of a tile, you could drill through each of the four corners with a drill bit. Then use a wet saw to plunge a cut line to connect those holes, but you won't get very deep. You might not even cut all the way through. Then you can try to punch out the waste with a hammer. You can count on breaking a bunch of tiles before you get one right, and then you'd still need to clean up the edges with a file or grinder. If you need a square hole that small, I would encourage you to plan your tile pattern around it. It's a simple matter to cut a square out from the edge of a tile.
@@enduringcharm Thank you. You've helped me figure this out. I'll give it two or three attempts and if I can't do it by then I'll just reformat the pattern.
The reason for the few small squares is because I'm doing an intricate layout of some alternating tiles just for a small entryway into my own house. Doing so just because I enjoy being creative and it's also stimulating to try to figure out some of the challenges doing so brings along the way!
I like the oscillating method and hand tools, using the sawzall method is too risky especially if u r not used to using it other than that great video👍✌️
It's true, I use a reciprocating saw like it's part of my body because I use them all the time. If you are not accustomed to them you can stick with the other methods.
There are different grouts. Grout used on wall tiles is very soft and can easily be removed with any tool. Grout used on floor tile is a different story. That grout contains a lot of cement and it makes the grout seam extremely hard and very difficult to remove with any tool. I tried the tools you show but it takes forever to remove even jus one seam. There must be a better way.
There are some specialty grouts, such as epoxy grout. And in some cases actual mortar products may be used for brick, for example. But otherwise there is no difference between wall or floor grout. You may be confused with sanded and unsanded grout, since unsanded grout is used on walls with very narrow grout lines. If you are having trouble removing grout on your floor and a carbide or diamond blade won't do the trick, it's possible you have one of the specialty grouts.
I need to re-grout a bathroom countertop. The grout line is about 1/16". Would the reciprocating saw blade be too thick?
Robert Bush It probably would be, yes. The good news is that a sixteenth inch grout line is non-sanded grout, which is generally easier to remove. You may well find that a utility knife or an old, thin screwdriver is all that is needed to scratch out the old grout.
Thanks enduringcharm!
How do you get grout out from a bath surround? A 1/16" saw will not fit into the thin grout lines.... TIA
+Joe Tittiger Are you asking how to remove grout from thin grout lines? Those are easy. With grout lines under 1/8 of an inch, unsanded grout was used which is usually easier to remove. Try using just a straight utility knife. The tip of the razor blade will wear down, but it should be effective on the grout. You can also file down the tip of a flat blade screwdriver to use.
where did you buy the reciprocating saw tungsten bit?
what brand is it ?
GeeZa TheProject I can't recall the brand, but they are typically available at the big box home improvement stores. Amazon also has them. Try "grout grabber" or Spyder" or "grout removal" in your search.
can you use circular saw? are there grout blades for those?
No. That would make a BIG stinking mess and likely break tile as well. Same goes for diamond blades installed on a grinder. Sure, it will remove the grout, but it will also send plumes of dust throughout the house and one slip would take tile with it. Slow and steady wins the race with this task.
How easily is the tile damaged with the sawzall? That’s my biggest worry, chipping edges..
Thanks for the video!
Needless to say, you must be careful, and if you lack experience with a reciprocating saw this is probably not the first project you want to try with one. The type of tile will be a big factor in potential damage, though. Porcelain tile is more durable and the color goes all the way through the body of the tile. Ceramic tile is much more fragile and it typically has only a glazed surface over a clay body. That glazed surface will be much more prone to chipping than a solid body porcelain tile. And under the glaze will be a red or white clay. If you are worried, try using a multitool with a rounded diamond blade instead. That tool is easily controllable and still works pretty quickly.
Grout on my tiles is like concrete. Needed to buy oscillating tool, even it doesnt help much. Will take some time to clean that our.
It is possible you have something other than standard grout. There is epoxy grout, which is tough stuff. There is also mortar (a cement product) that could be used in certain circumstances such as brick or stone tile. You may have more luck with a diamond grinding wheel, but that would make a dusty mess.
+enduringcharm I had the same problem as julius. I finished regrouting my shower floor and sometimes I was having some difficulties even with the the oscillating tool.
I found out that the discoloration between the tiles was because there was some excess mortar put when the tiles were mounted.
Now the carbide blade is kind of wear-out. Do you recommend to buy a diamond one for the rest of the walls and floor?
Thank you again for your nice video and your time to write very helpful answers :)
It's hard to diagnose from a distance sometimes. One thing that comes to mind is tool speed. If your oscillating tool (or reciprocating saw if you are using that) has a variable speed, you might try a slower setting. Speed kills metal because it heats up quickly and destroys the temper. You'll find that a slower tool speed with a carbide tip will actually yield a faster removal rate because the tip stays sharp. Diamond coated tips may be more durable but they are also less aggressive in removal. If you have a new carbide tip, try slowing down the tool and avoiding overheating to see if the tip lasts longer. Sometimes slow is fast!
Great video! Anyone ever tell you that your voice sounds a LOT like comedian Jim Norton?
Most people call me Joe Pesci!
Great video Thanks. But since you did the time lapse on reciprocating saw, how much time did it take vs the oscillating saw? Are they the same time? The oscillating was real time or at least looked like it and seemed to be the faster way, but comments and what you said made it sound like the reciprocating saw was faster. I have that same Dewalt model, wondering if I should just use it or get and oscillating tool as well. How many reciprocation blades did you use for that job? 1 hour!!!! Pretty good sawin' there ! Thanks friend.
The recip saw is a brute force instrument and the multi-tool (oscillating tool) offers more finesse. So the speed of one or the other will really depend on other factors such as physical access (the recip saw needs room), your skill in controlling the tool, the width of the grout lines, the type of grout, etc. If you have lots of room to maneuver, you have wider grout joints and you are practiced with the recip saw, it will remove more material more quickly. If space is tight or grout lines thin, the multi-tool is a better bet. Incidentally, this video was made some time ago and I've since graduated to newer multi-tools. I have a review of the DeWalt corded multi-tool and coming up in a week or two a review of the cordless multi-tool which you should watch. It's a more powerful tool than the old Dremel shown in this video and would offer better performance in grout removal.
czcams.com/video/iPOcGccgvpU/video.html
what speed did you use your dremel at? thanks!
The speed of the multitool or reciprocating saw should be kept to a minimum, as long as you see grout being removed. Heat will burn up the blades quickly, so start slow and find the speed that is effective at removing the grout but no faster.
Is it true that I have to (completely) remove all of the old grout or the new grout will crack? Some associate at homedeot told me this, which it does not sound very convencing.
Montery12 Well, there are good reasons to remove all the old grout, but I don't know that failing to do so will necessarily lead to cracks. Once you get a few inches of grout removed you'll find it goes fairly quickly from there on out, so removing all of it may not be that big of a deal. If you leave old grout behind you may notice a color difference on the edges or with any powdery residue that mixes with the new grout. As far as cracks, the new grout needs to be seated deeply in the grooves in order to hold up over time. Removing all of the old grout allows for this. Leaving some of the old grout means that you are relying on a bond between old and new grout for long term strength. That may or may not occur, and the amount of flex in the entire floor plane could tip the balance either way. So, the safe thing to do is remove all of the old grout (which isn't as hard as you may think).
My contractor half-@ssed the job of removing and replacing grout in our kitchen (his crew screwed up the initial install and the grout was cracking and coming out). The contractor only partially removed what was there and put more on top. Less than 2 years later my husband and I have to remove all of the grout and start over because everything is cracking and coming out. (Hence my visit to this video).
Is this technique safe for marble tiles? My grout has gone moldy and it's my understanding this is the only good option. I am looking to replace my existing grout with epoxy grout.
These techniques should work on just about any type of tile installation. If you are worried about chipping a tile, just take your time and avoid aggressive moves. Practice in a corner somewhere if you are unsure of yourself.
enduringcharm Thank you very much, this helps.
Ahhh NO...Normal Marble has unsanded grout lines, as well as one of the softest of all natural stones...You can try a hand tool, but still dangerous...Marble typically has less than 1'/8" grout lines...Good Luck!
enduringcharm
Great video! How much do u charge for re grout?
I only get into regrouting as part of a remodel or repair. You may find tile guys in your area who will regrout as a service. The cost will vary depending on the circumstances--tile size, grout line width, obstructions in the room, etc.
The house we bought had grout that went to all the side edges and corners...then they put a silcone caulk on it...it leaked badly. I bought a multi max dremel tool to remove the grout. I notice you go to the mastic. Is it essential to go to the mastic? I can't really tell. Can you give me a rule of thumb please? I am then going to regrout the sides...and I want to make sure it doesn't leak again. Can you give me any advice? Thank you. Oh, the grout is sanded and quite stubborn even with the multi-max
+Elaine Flournoy You didn't mention where your tile is located--is it a shower? A floor? A kitchen back splash? I'm not certain what you mean about the leak without some more information. To regrout you should remove all of the old grout. Usually once you get a line going the remainder comes out fairly easily. If you have wallboard as the backer you need to be careful not to go right through it with the power tool. I may be able to provide better advice with further information...
+enduringcharm sorry. It's a large double shower stall. Tile on walks and floor.
But how do you know if it's all removed. Thank you for your quick response.
+Elaine Flournoy it's where the floor tiles meet the wall tiles. I'm afraid of cutting through the board.
+Elaine Flournoy Hmm. Well, if you have leaks--like, water that is escaping through or past the shower curb on the floor or water that has come through a ceiling below then you have a bigger problem than grout. A properly installed shower with a tiled floor and walls should not leak even if there is no grout at all. Older installations were done differently than ones in the last tens years or so. Today we typically use a proprietary system like Schluter or similar brands. In the old days the floor was built up with slopped mortar bed on top of a rubber membrane and the tile was installed on top of that. Today we do the walls with cement backerboard but back in the day it might have been drywall. Anyway, if you have leaks you should really get a pro in there to see the problem in person before you get to far into regrouting.
That aside, removing all the grout means you'll go to a depth of 3/16 to 1/4 inch for most tile. You'll be able to see the full thickness of the tile in the grout line. It's pretty obvious when all the old grout comes free. Often you can use the power tool to cut a line down the middle and clean up by hand with an old screwdriver or similar tool. And, in reference to your earlier comment about the mastic, hopefully your shower tile was not installed with mastic but with thinset mortar. Mastic is not appropriate for showers or other wet areas.
Sorry if I was unclear. There is no leaking to the ceiling below. Rather we don't use the shower in the winter. So we were able to see water - not a lot - seeping back onto the shower tile floor.
Since it is in the bottom of the wall it's hard to see. But I will keep working on it.
I am using the hand tool and it's a ridiculously slow progress...
I might just have to rent the electric tool!
6:40 Edges of some tile look damaged. Maybe the Dewalt tool is too aggressive?
Thanks for a great video showing various techniques.
birdwing98 No, no, that's the way the tile was designed! The edges of the tile have a rustic, irregular edge to them as part of the style. With porcelain tile these tools shown in the video will not be a problem. With cheaper ceramic tile there is the potential to chip some of the glaze off the tile if you are not careful.
What's the info of the blades for reciprocating tool?
If you are looking for carbide or diamond tipped specialty blades for that saw, your best bet is online retailers. I don't see them available at the box stores very often.
One more comment - any hints on how to remove Epoxy or epoxy like grout such as Laticrete?
Epoxy grout is really a different animal altogether from regular cementitious grout. Different manufacturers may also have proprietary formulas. Once epoxy grout has dried and cured it's pretty tough to remove. If you are trying to remove it from the face of a tile, using a wooden stick to scrape it off is an option, as are some grout removal solvents. If you need to remove it from grout lines in order to re-grout, a diamond blade will likely be best. Once most of it is out you can probably use a utility knife to clean the edges.
@@enduringcharm Thanks! Grinding it is! just an FYI this is Laticrete and not pure epoxy but hard as a rock. I thought it would not stain! It does and once it does it cant be cleaned. When I get this out I will put back a real epoxy grout.
When do i know i have to change the grout remover blade?
It will become obvious if your blade is getting a bit stale because you'll have to work the tool much harder. But, a diamond edged blade on a reciprocating saw or a multitool should last your whole project and then some. Just remember to go slow with the tool speed and not to push too hard on the blade. Heat (from excessive friction) will kill a blade faster than anything else.
Is these tools are available in united Arab Emirates.
I don't know, but you could have them shipped from another country if necessary.
Good video but it would have been nice too see how you got in the tight corners where the power tool wasn't at the best angle.
The multitool works best for getting right up next to things, although you may need to adjust the blade angle. And, for delicate areas, hand work is sometimes necessary.
How long would a bathroom like that take?
+John Riley It goes fairly quickly. A typical bath might be a couple-few hours of work, depending on what fixtures you need to work around. It seems worse than it is until you do a few tiles and realize how quickly the power tools can work.
what about dust control?
If you are having trouble with that, leave the hose end of a shop vac near where you are working or have a helper hold it there. Use both a bag and a filter in the shop vac. You could also spritz the area with water if you like. However, the grout generally stays put pretty well.
Is it recommended that I use the blade at 1:38 and remove the grout by hand?
You can use any of these methods, depending on what works best in your room. Each has advantages and disadvantages, so choose the one that works best in your circumstances.
enduringcharm How long would it take to scrub around one tile by hand (estimate)?
It's impossible to say--there are different sized tiles, different thickness and depth of grout lines, different density and age of grout, etc. With these tools it goes fairly quickly, but slow and steady wins the race.
I used a grinder with diamond blade.. but it’s not for the faint hearted, best to get a 3 speed or variable speed grinder as ol mate said less is more. But if your inexperienced don’t use a regular grinder, their very unforgiving, you can easily wreck your tile.
I hope you'll forgive me for making an example of you--but what you describe is really a terrible idea. As you already know, a grinder is a high speed device which will send dust flying everywhere when used to remove grout. Since this is an indoor project, it will necessarily pollute the air you breath and leave a mess. But, that dust is not harmless, it contains crystalline silica from the grout as well as from the backerboard or tile if you nick those materials. Breathing this substance can cause significant health issues and in recent years regulators have cracked down on certain practices which spread this substance in the workplace. Yet, word is not getting through. The methods I showed in the video create manageable piles of debris and minimize the dust. Stick with those. You can learn more here: www.osha.gov/silica-crystalline
At 6:42 the tiles appear to be chipped along the edges. Is this from using power tools instead of the manual rake? Will the damage still be visible after the new grout is applied?
Ha! No, those aren't chips. The tile is designed that way--it's supposed to be a vintage or distressed sort of look. If you actually chipped the tile you would be missing some glazing. It is possible to chip tile while removing grout, and this would be more common on lesser quality ceramic tile than on the higher quality porcelain tile shown in this video. If you are concerned about it then use a multi-tool with a diamond blade or use hand tools. Either will be safer than using a reciprocating saw. This video will show you some basics: czcams.com/video/X5oyljd-fTo/video.html
Hey, can you just remove a little bit of grout...so you can grout over it, to change grout color?
No shortcuts, I'm afraid. You need some depth for the grout to sit, otherwise it will just crack off in time. As they say in the Army: embrace the suck!
Did you remove the toilet or leave it installed for this job
That's a great question. Generally speaking you can leave the toilet in place and work around it. Obviously the old grout under the toilet will stay in place. The base of the toilet should be sealed either with caulk or grout, and probably either should be removed when you are regrouting a whole room. Just be careful working around the porcelain because it could crack with a hard enough hit from a saw. I generally work by hand around the base to be safe.
@@enduringcharm Good to know! I’m getting ready to re-grout the floor in our one and only bathroom and was really concerned about how long the toilet would be out of commission
You seriously removed all the grout from that floor in an hour? Even all the little clingy bits you have to shave with a screwdriver? It took me TWO DAYS to remove the grout in my foyer floor. Probably 8-10 work hours. An open 6x10 ft area. No obstructions or weird protrusions. I did the project because 2 tiles were cracked and, over several years, there were pieces flaking off the cracks. I replaced 6 tiles in a pattern that looked purposeful (I popped another tile removing the grout). It came out great, but I had to question whether it would've been easier to replace the whole tile job.
ONE hour? Seriously? Poop. That's the difference between a professional contractor and a DIY housewife.
It wasn't a big floor in that video. But, yes, practice does make perfect! I'll bet your next grout removal project will go faster!
3:37 notice how he immediately stops cutting right after the blade jumps and scratches the tile than lightly whips the area but decides to play it off by focusing else where. Unless you're a pro a Sawzall is the last tool one should use for removing grout. It's too heavy, too powerful, hard to control the speed and leaves too much risk in damaging the tile. Multi tool is ones best bet.
The tile was not scratched. What you saw on the video--which is not a high resolution video-- was the blade catching on something and springing to the side. This is not uncommon, since the saw mechanism and the blade both introduce a lot of play in the movement. The surface of quality tile is actually pretty durable and you have to work at it to leave a scratch. After all, when tile is brand new the first thing you do is wipe sanded grout over it and tile must also stand up to years of foot traffic. However, your point about reciprocating saws is not wrong. If you don't have experience with the saw or you are working in a confined area it might be best to choose one of the different methods.
@@enduringcharm I would disagree. If that diamond blade make any contact across the tile surface, it is scratched badly, especially if it is glazed bathroom tile. This is why I don't remove grout for any of my customers. Working with power tools on installed tile is suicide. Guarantee that your tool, even the multitool, will skip many times per job. So you have multiple ruined tiles. It is not worth it. If your grout is dirty bleach it.
The reciprocating saw had a carbide blade, if memory serves, not diamond. But, for porcelain tile the danger of scratching is relatively low if you work carefully. I also don't make a habit of removing grout for customers, but it comes up from time to time. I make customers aware of the risk. Choosing the right tool for the area you are working is important. For ceramic tile it can be easy to chip the glaze, so if I'm forced to do grout removal in that situation I'll use either hand scrapers or a multitool for the most control. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never scratched a tile yet.
💪🏻👍👍👍
Joe Pesci in a CZcams video? Sounds like Joe.
Did not know Joe Pesci did DIY video's
One hr to remove that grout ?? It’s real time or your trying to impress some body ...? So hour and half to be ready to grout back ??? 🤔
It goes more quickly than you might imagine. Of course, if you have fixtures to work around or a tight space it can slow you down, but otherwise you can move right along by using the right tools.
The blade on the Dremel is backwards. Very funny fail.
At 3:59 I explained why the blade is mounted that way. Maybe you could check that out before laughing at a "fail."
Those blades aren't worth a shit....they burn out pretty fast and they aren't cheap, it might be good for the repair of one or two tiles but more than that it is better to dig up old tile and retile...I want to see a video of you digging up that whole area, go ahead, I'll Waite...
Well, you won't have to wait long. I made a video years ago tearing up a mud job by hand (czcams.com/video/rpBu1o8LjDo/video.html) and another one using a demo hammer (czcams.com/video/B9TwonmSa-U/video.html). I personally remodel 5-6 bathrooms a year in my business. As for the grout removal blades not lasting, the single blade that I purchased years ago has held up through something like a dozen complete floor re-grout jobs and more partial work. If tile is in good shape and well adhered there's no reason to tear it up if all it needs is regrouting.