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It's more complicated than that. A down cut bit provides a cleaner cut at the surface, which is important for a mortise since that's where the fit should be tight. A downcut bit can also be more stable during a plunge cut. If you use an upcut bit, it will tend to pull the workpiece toward the router, which may be too grabby for precision plunge cutting and which may also make it more difficult to pull the workpiece back up when you are done cutting the mortise. The downcut bit will tend to push chips into the mortise, but those easily pop out when you are done.

I wouldn't worry about too much grease. The danger would be not enough and the dry fit causes the rubber to tear or not seal.

The commercial pullers can sometimes work, but not always. If the rubber gets dislodged it really won't matter. As far as running water to get the pieces out, that's a little risky. The water could easily run down the back of the wall and cause trouble.

Possibly the pin is bent, or possibly you just need to wiggle it the right way to get it seated. Take a look at the bottom as you inert the clip and see if it is hanging up.

Yes, if the handle is parallel it is on, if the handle is perpendicular it is off. Presumably you have the nut on the opposite side and that should be re-tightened if you are leaving the valve in the off or on position.

Yes, that would have been a bad day!

Radial Arm saws are not widely available new, I'm not even sure they are available at all. They have been replaced with double compound miter saws, among other modern tools.

@@enduringcharm .....awh...heck...I can cut a compound mitre on a Boston hip roof with a left handed circular saw......while whistling Dixie, ( I need to run and edit.....Have a super evening)

To be clear, I use these vacuums every day. With this design it's just too easy to tear the bag no matter the technique or how careful you are. The older design on other Ridgid vacs I own do not have this issue. Let's remember, tools exist to serve the user and make work more efficient, not the other way around.

Glad it was helpful!

Time to start chipping and breaking!

Thanks for the comment! All these years later and these problems are still here, for sure. The quality of materials and finished components has only gotten worse--and that's if you can find them in the first place. The time I spend shopping and searching locally and online now far outweighs the time I spend actually building. And no matter how much expertise and experience I have, project quality is going to be limited by what I can buy. It is very frustrating and even demoralizing at times.

There are commercial products to create such a gap and ways of doing it yourself with strapping. That said, I don't think the additional cost and effort is worth it IF the rest of the things I mentioned are followed. In other words, if the siding is well back primed, well painted, and the seams are sealed, etc., then it just isn't necessary. I would feel differently if the clapboard siding is left natural, or stained with a transparent stain, or if there is a known problem with moisture in the structure due to unique circumstances.

I bed my caulk sealant, meaning that I force the caulk into the gap with my finger and smooth the edges. Unless you have no gap at all, that should be sufficient. There are many who just lay a bead of caulk on the surface with the gun and leave it, but I find that lazy and ineffective. That aside, I do think about the building when considering the gaps I leave between trim and siding. A wall with a heavy southern exposure is going to experience greater movement in the siding than a wall hidden in shade all year long. So I will adjust the gaps according to local conditions.

More likely your problem is in the faucet itself. There should be a screen at the end of the faucet where the water comes out. See if you can unscrew that screen, remove the mechanism and clean it it all before putting it back together.

The thickness of the moulding will depend on the profile of the beading router bit you are using. Those router bits come in different sizes, and you'll cut your moulding to include the rounded profile as well as the relief area. Just set your table saw fence to include both, whatever that measurement might be.

That older attachment system is still available.

There are lots of different styles, so a lack of a pipe sticking up isn't necessarily an issue. I presume you are digging out the cover to prepare for a cleaning? If you have a single tank system, then it is typical that there are two holes on the top of the tank. The one you dug up may be the cover over the outlet of the tank, and there may also be a second cover or just a pipe over the inlet of the tank a few feet away. For a cleaning it is best to expose the outlet of the tank so you can check it for damage and make sure solids aren't getting into your leach field. If you have uncovered a plastic or concrete cap which is around two or three feet in diameter you probably have the right one.

@@enduringcharm ok thanks! Yea I had to dig up the septic cap. My father thought there should have been a pipe sticking out of the concrete cap but he realized that I dug it all the way around open and there wasn’t a PVC pipe coming out of the cap. We have one septic tank, not sure about the whole drainage field though. But we haven’t had our septic cleared in years. Last time we had a septic guy come here he was trying to explain to my dad that he rather take the entire cap off so he could completely clean the tank out, because we were having back up issues downstairs in our basement area where a stand in shower would overflow sewage out the drain. So instead of just cleaning some of it out through the small hole the guy wanted to completely clean it out but it would cost more. And the septic guy was trying to tell him this would only be a temporary fix to a bigger problem. And we would just have to keep calling him back out again to do the same thing if not. But several years have passed and not the septic is full up to the shower drain again and toilet paper and sewage came up through the drain and the water won’t go back down the drain all the way. And whenever someone flushes a toilet upstairs my toilet downstairs will start gurgling and bubbling the water in my toilet. But yea I believe the outlet of the tank is under the cap. It’s circular with one hook in it. Hoping the guy will come tomorrow, he was too busy to reach back to us today. Thank you for the info! Sorry I wrote so much just wanted to try explaining what’s been going on. Our house is an older mid 70’s house and things are starting to fall apart here left and right lol

Oh boy. That doesn't sound too good! When the solids rise above the outlet pipe which leads from the tank to the leach field, the solids start to fill the pipes in the field. That's a far greater problem than the backup into the house because it can destroy your leach field's ability to work and now you need a whole new system. With the full cap removed from the tank, your cleanout guy can do a far better job of removing solids because he can add liquid back into the tank to loosen solids and then suck it all out again. He can also look at the outlet to see if it is clogged up. If it is, they can try to use various pressure washer equipment to clean the outlet and even to back wash some of the pipes leading out to the D-box and leach field. You should take this cleanout process very seriously and be with the cleanout guy when he does his work and inspection. A whole new septic system in most places these days can easily reach $60-80K. If you can do a thorough cleaning now--no matter the cost--it;s money well spent if it saves the system.

The blade, held at an angle, may not be wide enough to complete a full through-cut in 1/2 or 5/8 drywall. That's because you need some of the blade always above the cut line to keep that clean cut, and you are not a robot so it's likely you'll have some movement in your hands as you go. Also, a shallow cut is easier to complete with less pressure, so you can stay on the line with greater ease. If I'm cutting a hole for an "old-work" electrical box retrofitted into a finished, painted wall, you better believe I'm going to take the extra time to make a double cut. Otherwise, I risk having to spackle and repaint due to a slip. If I'm just trimming some new drywall not yet spackled, then I might just attempt a single complete cut with a wide blade.

Anybody who has hard and fast rules in remodeling is going to run into trouble. Your question relates to a number of factors, including the strength of the assembly and the possibility of squeaks. Here are two examples to consider. If the first layer of plywood over the joists is 3/4, in very good condition, and well fastened to the joists then you have a great base from which to work. You can lay down your second layer of plywood and attach it to the first layer of plywood using screws which do not go into the joists. Take care not to use a long screw which might puncture wiring or pipes below, and use a 8-12 inch grid pattern. A different example would be 5/8 plywood on the first layer or maybe even diagonal boards. The wood is in poor condition with soft spots or flaking. It isn't well fastened to the joists. In that case, I'm putting down a second layer of 3/4 ply and I'm screwing into the joists. Then I'll use shorter screws to bring the two layers together in between the joists. So the answer to your question is: it depends. I make an evaluation in each case, aiming for strength stiffness and no squeaks.

@@enduringcharmThank you!

Well, not so much biased as I have determined the saw just doesn't add much to my shop, never mind the jobsite. Routers have taken the place of the RAS for functions like crosscut dadoes, a dual bevel compound miter saw does all manner of crosscuts AND it's portable, and the table saw can handle full width plywood sheets with ease. So, I still have the RAS, but I rarely use it. The two safety concerns I have most with the RAS, though, are the noise level and the dust. I've tested the RAS as the loudest tool I own: czcams.com/video/zNS7Md0-e7A/video.html. And dust collection just isn't efficient on these older machines. You came of age during the heyday of the RAS, so you became comfortable with it. Nothing wrong with that.

@@enduringcharm We all have our preference's, I have found that a well adjuster Radial Arm Saw, replaces a compound Miter Saw, and is an excellent choice for raised panel cutters, and trim cutters, and just like a Table Saw, Finger boards, and guides are required for save, and accurate cutting. Back in the 1980's I made enough trim for a big Timber Frame Home, that the total linear footage, of this trim came to equal over 14 miles, in length. all with trim cutters.

If you unscrew the bulb in question you'll see the size of the base. You can bring the old bulb into the store with you to compare bases.