Thank you very much! The best tip I can give you is buy a thin and regular type from one brand only and learn how to use them. Either go Tamiya, Mr. Hobby or Testors. Each are slightly different and don't take the exact same time to cure. Thin and regular is usually the way to go.
Have you used the tamiya extra thin cement? Is it stronger than the deluxe? Whenever I use the deluxe cement, the part I welded would still seperate themselves (i gave it hours to cure, and wrap the parts with rubber bands)
Hello, I have one question. what is the difference between mr cement deluxe and mr cement s? does the diss melt and become the same color as the plastic? thanks good video
Both cements are totally transparent, so they don't change the color of the plastic as it melts and cures. The ''S'' type is thinner, has a small brush in the cap, has the consistency of water and will easily run into small cracks. Very good for smaller parts. The ''Deluxe'' type is thicker, has a bigger brush in the cap and is used for bigger parts generally speaking. Both are very strong when completely cured and do the same thing. They just require a different approach.
You can use both cements I show in my video or the Tamiya brand, they will all work fine. Be generous when applying it, hold the parts together for a while and let it cure overnight. If you don't have cement then two part epoxy is amazing. It's incredibly tough. Just don't use super glue, it's not very good for that type of repair.
@@jelaienfinue do i need to use two of them or just 1? And is it strong enough for joint fixing? Since they always moving it would be easy for them to break again unless the cement are strong enough. Sorry for asking so many question
@@agungyoga4520 You only have to use one type of cement. If you apply enough on both sides and let it cure properly the joint should be as strong as the plastic. Of course, it can't be stronger than that regardless of what kind of glue you use. If you're really worried about it breaking just run a metal pin through it and then glue everything together. That's the absolute best you can do. If you can't do that, just be generous with the cement, let it cure completely (overnight) and be careful afterwards.
The tools you need depend on what type of kit you're making. If all you're doing is Gunpla and you don't paint them then you need nippers, a hobby knife and some tweezers for the stickers. If you paint them you'll need a bit more tools. If you build plastic kits that require gluing you'll need cement and sandpaper. If you build resin kits then you'll need a whole list of tools.
Oliver's World By nippers do you happen to mean like spruce cutters or? I’ve been looking around I just want to make sure I get myself the right one and a decent pair. I might pick up the cement that you use and yeah a hobby knife too. Thanks 😊 🙏🏼 this really helps a ton .
@@ShotoMetsu86 Yeah when I say "nippers" I mean spruce cutters. If you want a good one get the Tamiya brand. I've been using mine for years and it's still sharp enough to cleanly cut plastic. No need to get the GodHand ones, they're too pricey for a tool that doesn't need to be expensive.
You could use either cement or CA glue to fix broken parts, both are great. Sometimes it's better to use cement, other times CA glue is better. Don't forget to sand and fill the crack after fixing it.
I’ve had such bad luck with model cements crapping out on me. After I finished a model some parts they would fall off. I started using super glue. I recently bought Mr. Cement but it doesn’t seem to be holding, granted I’ve so far only used it once.
Using cement requires a bit of practice. I've had issues with parts not bonding together properly and ruining my paint job during final assembly because they would break off. The key is to be reasonably generous when applying it, squeeze both parts so that the melted plastic "mixes up" correctly and then WAIT. I'm a bit impatient when it comes to curing times and most of the time when I break something, it's because the cement was not cured. I think that's a really important point, you really have to let it sit for a while once all the other steps have been done properly.
@@jelaienfinue cool!! Thanks! The cement I was using years ago where the parts would fall off was the gel cement in metal tubes. It’s not great at all. I eventually moved to a liquid based cement and even superglue. However there is always paranoia with me about parts not connecting or staying together
@@johnmazzoni487 Knowing how much to use is the tricky part. Also, I've had issues with all kinds of glue not sticking to parts even though they were perfectly clean. It takes maybe two or three times before it finally works. I don't know why it does that sometimes, but it happens. If you really want to make sure everything is nice and solid, use a little more than what's necessary and be patient. Don't forget that sometimes parts are so small and the surface where they meet is so small that there's nothing you can about it except being VERY careful.
@@jelaienfinue I’m using mr cement at the moment and it seems to strip the paint easily. If there is paint on the parts I’m joining would paint if there is some on the surfaces effect the joining?
@@johnmazzoni487 From my experience not really, but I do add a little more when there's paint just to make sure. It's probably not necessary to do that, but better safe than sorry. That being said, it would be better to remove the paint before using cement. Plastic to plastic is always better, but we all get a little lazy sometimes and it's okay to just go straight on painted parts.
I've had the same issue as well. I don't know why but some parts are more difficult to stick together than others. Most of the time I try again and it works. If the plastic isn't melting properly I use CA glue or epoxy.
I have never used the regular Mr. Cement so I can't tell you much about it. The Deluxe is slightly thicker than water and as you can see in the video the brush is "regular" sized so it's perfect for bigger parts (fuselage, shields, etc..) and bigger jobs. The S type is thinner (it's just like water) and the brush is more precise. It is perfect for smaller parts, doing precise work and using the capillary action to your advantage (like I showed in the video).
My 12 year old son Junior was using some of this Mr.Cement to put together a model airplane when he passed smooth out at the kitchen table. His head hit the table so hard it left a knot big enough to tie a horse to. Had to run him up to the emergency room they kept him up in the hospital for 3 days. There is something in that damn glue that made him pass out. Does anybody know who to contact with this company? Because i'm out about 900 dollars to the hospital, not to mention the kitchen table that got destroyed when Junior hit his head on it. It really pisses me off that they could sell a glue that could be that toxic, and make a kid pass out. I'm wanting some money out of this deal. Who should I talk to about it?
I'm really sorry for what happened and I hope your son is doing well as I'm writing this. Your best bet would be to send a message to Mr. Hobby directly on their website. I do believe they have a contact section. If you do not get an answer I recommend sending emails until you get one. You could also reach them on social medias, I'm sure they're at least on Facebook.
Oliver's World I'm pretty sure that there are warnings on Mr. Hobby glues too. I have a bottle, but there are only Japanese markings on it, probably was directly imported, and not through regular channels, but most of them have warnings. There are many household products that contain volatile substances, gasoline, acetone, alcohol, paints. Those volatile get released into the air and you breathe them in. Contact cement, the one that your son used, is a poly cement, and it's role is to melt plastic, the polymers in the liquid glue mix with the polymers in plastic. In order to have it liquid, it contains a highly volatile substance, an ether usually, that evaporates in contact with air. That's what your son breathe in. Now, our brain gets a bit weird when we inhale something else that's not oxygen, but that acts like it. A volatile compound acts like basic oxygen, and our brain runs it through the body as it would be one. Once in the bloodstream and into our brain, your brain sees it as what it is, and it might act a bit weird. In your case, it lowered the blood pressure of your sun, in an "I don't want more of this stuff" reaction, that's why your son fainted. Mr. Hobby glue is pretty volatile, more than others cement that I've used. Junior should use it only in well-ventilated areas. Having in mind his age, I wouldn't exclude the possibility of him trying to actually sniff it in order to get high.
Me: before this i used fire to melt it. Wasnt the *brightest* idea....
That's brutal as hell haha.
It technically did
cool video, easy to understand. my problem now is that there are so many types of cement, I guess I will just try all and stick to one of them.
Thank you very much! The best tip I can give you is buy a thin and regular type from one brand only and learn how to use them. Either go Tamiya, Mr. Hobby or Testors. Each are slightly different and don't take the exact same time to cure. Thin and regular is usually the way to go.
Good work
Thanks!
Have you used the tamiya extra thin cement? Is it stronger than the deluxe? Whenever I use the deluxe cement, the part I welded would still seperate themselves (i gave it hours to cure, and wrap the parts with rubber bands)
You applied a little too thick if it still breaks apart and also it doesn't have air to breathe(Dry) if it's too tight
Hello, I have one question. what is the difference between mr cement deluxe and mr cement s? does the diss melt and become the same color as the plastic? thanks good video
Both cements are totally transparent, so they don't change the color of the plastic as it melts and cures. The ''S'' type is thinner, has a small brush in the cap, has the consistency of water and will easily run into small cracks. Very good for smaller parts. The ''Deluxe'' type is thicker, has a bigger brush in the cap and is used for bigger parts generally speaking. Both are very strong when completely cured and do the same thing. They just require a different approach.
So which cement do u recommend for Gundam joint fixing? I broke some part that i wanna glue together and i don't know what variant to use
You can use both cements I show in my video or the Tamiya brand, they will all work fine. Be generous when applying it, hold the parts together for a while and let it cure overnight. If you don't have cement then two part epoxy is amazing. It's incredibly tough. Just don't use super glue, it's not very good for that type of repair.
@@jelaienfinue do i need to use two of them or just 1? And is it strong enough for joint fixing? Since they always moving it would be easy for them to break again unless the cement are strong enough. Sorry for asking so many question
@@agungyoga4520 You only have to use one type of cement. If you apply enough on both sides and let it cure properly the joint should be as strong as the plastic. Of course, it can't be stronger than that regardless of what kind of glue you use. If you're really worried about it breaking just run a metal pin through it and then glue everything together. That's the absolute best you can do. If you can't do that, just be generous with the cement, let it cure completely (overnight) and be careful afterwards.
@Oliver's World What tools do you use btw? Like the nippers/cutters, knife, filers, etc?
The tools you need depend on what type of kit you're making. If all you're doing is Gunpla and you don't paint them then you need nippers, a hobby knife and some tweezers for the stickers. If you paint them you'll need a bit more tools. If you build plastic kits that require gluing you'll need cement and sandpaper. If you build resin kits then you'll need a whole list of tools.
Oliver's World Yeah it’s just basically to put together little guns that are 1/12 Scale for my Figma from Little Armory.
@@ShotoMetsu86 Then you need nippers, a hobby knife and maybe cement if the weapons aren't snap-fit.
Oliver's World By nippers do you happen to mean like spruce cutters or? I’ve been looking around I just want to make sure I get myself the right one and a decent pair. I might pick up the cement that you use and yeah a hobby knife too.
Thanks 😊 🙏🏼 this really helps a ton .
@@ShotoMetsu86 Yeah when I say "nippers" I mean spruce cutters. If you want a good one get the Tamiya brand. I've been using mine for years and it's still sharp enough to cleanly cut plastic. No need to get the GodHand ones, they're too pricey for a tool that doesn't need to be expensive.
is mr.cement S function same like tamiya extra thin cement ?
I believe it's about the same indeed.
@@jelaienfinue ouh ... all right .. thanks dude
Which one is better for fixing broken pieces
You could use either cement or CA glue to fix broken parts, both are great. Sometimes it's better to use cement, other times CA glue is better. Don't forget to sand and fill the crack after fixing it.
@@jelaienfinue but is mr cement S better than deluxe?
@@TheDiamondChrisProductions Deluxe is thicker and is better for bigger parts. S type is as thin as water so it gets into tiny spots for smaller jobs.
I’ve had such bad luck with model cements crapping out on me. After I finished a model some parts they would fall off. I started using super glue. I recently bought Mr. Cement but it doesn’t seem to be holding, granted I’ve so far only used it once.
Using cement requires a bit of practice. I've had issues with parts not bonding together properly and ruining my paint job during final assembly because they would break off. The key is to be reasonably generous when applying it, squeeze both parts so that the melted plastic "mixes up" correctly and then WAIT. I'm a bit impatient when it comes to curing times and most of the time when I break something, it's because the cement was not cured. I think that's a really important point, you really have to let it sit for a while once all the other steps have been done properly.
@@jelaienfinue cool!! Thanks! The cement I was using years ago where the parts would fall off was the gel cement in metal tubes. It’s not great at all. I eventually moved to a liquid based cement and even superglue. However there is always paranoia with me about parts not connecting or staying together
@@johnmazzoni487 Knowing how much to use is the tricky part. Also, I've had issues with all kinds of glue not sticking to parts even though they were perfectly clean. It takes maybe two or three times before it finally works. I don't know why it does that sometimes, but it happens. If you really want to make sure everything is nice and solid, use a little more than what's necessary and be patient. Don't forget that sometimes parts are so small and the surface where they meet is so small that there's nothing you can about it except being VERY careful.
@@jelaienfinue I’m using mr cement at the moment and it seems to strip the paint easily. If there is paint on the parts I’m joining would paint if there is some on the surfaces effect the joining?
@@johnmazzoni487 From my experience not really, but I do add a little more when there's paint just to make sure. It's probably not necessary to do that, but better safe than sorry. That being said, it would be better to remove the paint before using cement. Plastic to plastic is always better, but we all get a little lazy sometimes and it's okay to just go straight on painted parts.
So this won't work with the Bandai gundam kits? I'm not sure the difference with the plastics
It will work with Bandai kits no problems.
Did exact as your instruction with the deluxe. Overnight part popped apart. Now I'm less than impressed with it.
I've had the same issue as well. I don't know why but some parts are more difficult to stick together than others. Most of the time I try again and it works. If the plastic isn't melting properly I use CA glue or epoxy.
What is the difference about me cement. Mr cement deluxe. And mr cement s?
I have never used the regular Mr. Cement so I can't tell you much about it. The Deluxe is slightly thicker than water and as you can see in the video the brush is "regular" sized so it's perfect for bigger parts (fuselage, shields, etc..) and bigger jobs. The S type is thinner (it's just like water) and the brush is more precise. It is perfect for smaller parts, doing precise work and using the capillary action to your advantage (like I showed in the video).
mr cement and cement deluxe are same but ml different only.
My 12 year old son Junior was using some of this Mr.Cement to put together a model airplane when he passed smooth out at the kitchen table. His head hit the table so hard it left a knot big enough to tie a horse to. Had to run him up to the emergency room they kept him up in the hospital for 3 days. There is something in that damn glue that made him pass out. Does anybody know who to contact with this company? Because i'm out about 900 dollars to the hospital, not to mention the kitchen table that got destroyed when Junior hit his head on it. It really pisses me off that they could sell a glue that could be that toxic, and make a kid pass out. I'm wanting some money out of this deal. Who should I talk to about it?
I'm really sorry for what happened and I hope your son is doing well as I'm writing this. Your best bet would be to send a message to Mr. Hobby directly on their website. I do believe they have a contact section. If you do not get an answer I recommend sending emails until you get one. You could also reach them on social medias, I'm sure they're at least on Facebook.
@@jelaienfinue Thanks for your help !
Oliver's World I'm pretty sure that there are warnings on Mr. Hobby glues too. I have a bottle, but there are only Japanese markings on it, probably was directly imported, and not through regular channels, but most of them have warnings.
There are many household products that contain volatile substances, gasoline, acetone, alcohol, paints. Those volatile get released into the air and you breathe them in.
Contact cement, the one that your son used, is a poly cement, and it's role is to melt plastic, the polymers in the liquid glue mix with the polymers in plastic. In order to have it liquid, it contains a highly volatile substance, an ether usually, that evaporates in contact with air. That's what your son breathe in.
Now, our brain gets a bit weird when we inhale something else that's not oxygen, but that acts like it. A volatile compound acts like basic oxygen, and our brain runs it through the body as it would be one. Once in the bloodstream and into our brain, your brain sees it as what it is, and it might act a bit weird. In your case, it lowered the blood pressure of your sun, in an "I don't want more of this stuff" reaction, that's why your son fainted.
Mr. Hobby glue is pretty volatile, more than others cement that I've used. Junior should use it only in well-ventilated areas.
Having in mind his age, I wouldn't exclude the possibility of him trying to actually sniff it in order to get high.
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