SHOKY BUILDER TIPS: Plastic Cement or Super Glue?
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- čas přidán 30. 04. 2018
- There were so many questions in forums and groups lately I decided to make a video on the subject! Let's talk super glues vs plastic cements. What should you use them for, what are they good for and the ups and downs of both.
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![How duplicate or recasting gundam parts [Tutorial Video]](/img/n.gif)
This was extremely informative. Thanks as always, Shocky.
Perfect timing on this getting the hi res wing zero and people told me to glue pieces together and thicken pegs wasnt sure on what to get
I was annoyed this was almost 30 minutes long but i'm glad it was now. I never knew anything like plastic cement even existed before. I always just used superglue and of course everything i glued would fail shortly thereafter. Thanks for making this.
Well that was a mixed response. Lol
@@THEShoky As long as it ended up as a positive it's all good. Thanks again.
THANKS FOR GIVING ME A NEW HOPE
I like to add that the plastic cement is a very great way to get rid of hairline cracks that appear on the surface of the model kits.
yes. it's how I fixed my MG Ball.
Oh, and CA does not ”react to carbon dioxide from your breath”. It reacts to moisture in your breath. Water is what kicks off the polymerization, not CO2, as you mention later in the vid. Don’t use water as a kicker, though, as it can create a ”skin” of hardened CA on top, and leave the inside wet.
Great video as always
Nice vid man, very informative 👍
nice video. very informative
I want to mention 4 things this video made me think of. Sorry for the length of the comments!!
1) It was mentioned that someone used super glue and it melted their plastic. I've had this sort of thing happen to me, which has resulted in me not using super glue anymore.
In my case, the super glue wasn't melting the plastic like the cement does ("fusing" them together). Instead, it was creating a chemical reaction that was heating up the plastic (if I touched the glue by accident, it was actually warm), and it made it brittle. After the glue dried, the plastic would easily break apart. And by this, I don't mean that the two pieces would simply break back into two (as demonstrated in this video), but instead, it was like the plastic was left in the sun for years and was UV damaged to the point where it just shattered easily.
2) Another reason why I stopped using super glue is because I've tried using accelerator, but the plastic becomes especially brittle. The accelerator I've used was in an aerosol can though. Not sure if that matters or not.
Not sure if this is related to my (1) comment above, but in that comment, the chemical reaction sometimes happened (not sure why), but in this case it happens 100% of the time. Overall, I've just lost all trust in super glue.
3) In place of super glue, I've begun experimenting with UV resin glues. They work GREAT, but only if you lay the glue over the parts being stuck together, or if the parts are clear.
Think of it like welding two pieces of metal together versus gluing two objects together. When gluing, you put the glue between the objects and it either melts the surfaces together, or just dries and anchors the objects together. With welding, you add molten metal over the seam, joining the two metal pieces together.
If you use a normal gluing technique with UV glues, the glue between the two pieces can't be reached by the UV light, so it never hardens. This is why you need to put the glue over the two parts instead. That is, unless the parts are clear, in which case, the UV light can travel through the parts and resch the glue between them. (I haven't tried using colored transparent parts yet, such as limited edition transparent Gunpla kits. I wonder if something like transparent green, red, etc would somehow filter out the UV light or something).
UV glues seem to be working great, but I've only begun using them. No negative chemical reactions or brittleness so far. Only oddity so far is that every now and then, I will see what looks like smoke rising from the glue as soon as I shine the UV light onto it, but it lasts only a second or two, and doesn't appear to cause any negative side effects. I assume it's just something to do with the glue hardening under the UV.
4) It was mentioned how you could use super glue as a sort of bondo/filler, and how you can also use plastic dust or baking soda as an additive to strengthen this. You can also use the Tamiya cement for this too in a way.
Save your plastic nubs while cleaning up your pieces, and cut whatever color you need to use into as small of pieces as possible. Pour a bit of the cement into a glass jar, and then drop the plastic pieces into it. Seal the jar tight with a lid, and after a bit, the plastic pieces will liquify into a goop in the color of the plastic. You can then use a popsicle stick, toothpick, or a disposable brush to smear the mixture over a hole or seamline. It will fuse the goop and the plastic together. Just sand it and it will look like the filled area never existed.
It's cool, but I don't recommend it for everyday building. I've done it and it works great, allowing you to fill gaps, holes, seams, etc in the plastic's exact color, and without needing to paint afterwords (as with putty). BUT, it's wasteful. You kind of have to use a good amount of the cement just to create the mixture, and it isn't worth it in my opinion, unless you have a defective part or something you just have to fill on a very expensive kit, etc and you just can't paint it afterwards for some reason. Otherwise, just use putty or something and then paint.
Really great video by the way!!!
Woh what a long cmt. Anyway, I have the experience on super glue as you mentioned, so yeah, cement iis the best. Cons are they are more expensive and each kind of plastic need different cement type. Like ABS, PVC, PS, PC, PE, omg that's a lot. Not only you need to buy more cement but also sometimes it just hard to classify which plastic it is to cure.
Thanks for this
Minor error... the Petit’gguy are supposed to have the seam line on the head
I ruined it!
I bought an SD Unicorn Gundam Knight and the his broke so easily. Thanks for this vid dude, I'm gonna fix him up asap
My barbatos lupus rex's giant mace's handle is broken i have to fix it and this informative video helped much
Thanks for watching!
BSI = Bob Smith Industries. Their thick filling CA is supposedly pretty good too, especially for gaps.
I broke my rg freedom strike railgun placement...the roundish thing attacht to the torso...its too small my fingers couldnt hold it right due to it flingd out of my hand...how do it fix this
Your breath has a lot of water in it too, thats why in winter you see your breath, so that could be helping cure the CA glue too.
As a 40K fan. I must say super glue was fine when I was magnetizing parts but my minis would fall apart a lot quicker if I tried to superglue them together but when I used plastic glue they we’re basically one mini it was like the parts were never separated. The only time I use super glue on models is when I want to strengthen a joint with say a pin or just thickening a ball joint and when I add magnets
Always gotta find the right glue for the purpose.
My Joint part on OO Qan T GN Shield (abs plastic)
Broken, and I've tried to glue it but the glue didn't last long and the part broke again :c
Thanks for the explanation, I've never really understood the difference other than that plastic cement melts plastic.
Edit: does applying too much superglue make the plastic brittle?
It shouldn't unless you have so much it creates a thermal reaction.
I dont think CA glue produces any heat when curing. I would expect it to lose mass if it did.
Plastic cement heats up and evaporates, the heat melts the plastic and bonds them, while the evaporation ensures there is no leftover or excess material.
Once spilled some superglue on a gunpla manual and it started fuming so hard
@@aosabisuperglue produces heat when introduced to ploymer.
Very informative! I've used CAs and Zap Kicker for years but I had no idea water could achieve the same results. I went to test that trick but I think my bottle of Zap-A-Gap might be bad or something. It takes forever to cure, even with the Zap Kicker. Still, the water thing is good to know. One thing I've been meaning to ask though - starting with the Iron-Blooded Orphans kits, it seems like Bandai is phasing out Polycaps in favor of that semi-soft inner frame material. I've yet to identify the plastic those runners are made from, and to find any sort of adhesive that works on those. Can anybody suggest something?
usually on the first page of instructions itll tell you which runners are which plastics, it'll say PS (polystyrene) PE(polyethylene) or ABS. And to find what works on what, quick google search.
Question: when I superglue my Warhammer miniatures, this type of glue leaves spots/patches on or around the surface of the miniature where I glued due to inaccurate work on my side. How does the plastic cement compare to the superglue on this regard? What happens to the miniature when you for instance put plastic cement on the surface of a plastic miniature? Does it melt the plastic?
So, according to Uncle Dolphin: if its plastic cement is what you want, if its resin or pewter use super glue.
@@THEShoky can i use superglue for plastic on diecast?
Yes
I use liquid cement it’s the best for plastic minis but you have to be careful with it. If you get a little on the surface just leave it and it should be ok and dry quickly but if you get a lot on the surface it will melt the details right of especially if you panic and handle it ruff if this happens hold it on a part without the cement on it and dunk it in to water a few times to wash it off never put it under running water it will affect the details on the surface.
I've seen that you can also use baking soda to pretty much instantly dry super glue. It seems so effective, that I'm not even sure why one would buy that putty that Tamiya makes. Seems like a cheaper way to achieve the same thing of filling what's left of a seam line. Maybe the putty takes less sanding to smooth out?
Yeah. Baking soda dries like a rock. It is good filler but takes a good bit of sanding to clean up. It IS good for strengthening a bond just by adding more body to the glue.
@@THEShoky Hi do you just use sand paper for the sanding down of super glue?
Yes
Between plastic cement or super glue, which would be appropriate for the following scenarios:
1. Reinforcing broken joints with brass rods
2. Sticking a fake red jewel in place of the sticker for the eye part of an HG Zaku (or any HG mono-eyed suit in general)
It’s just that the brass rod and the back part of the fake jewel are made from different materials, so I’m not sure if cement can bond them well with the plastic.
In both those cases id say use the super glue since they're dissimilar materials. You could also use a different type of epoxy.
Yeah, I posted this to several other groups, and from what I picked up so far, they can be summarized as:
*plastic to plastic = cement
*other materials to plastic = super glue
Does Tamiya Thin Cement Fine can remove stress marks on Transformers toys by applying it?
The Tamiya extra thin cement that you've been used from the pla plate or whatever what we called, Why did you not tried to break? Just for fun😑
Would the Tamiya Extra Thin work for fixing a broken joint peg? I accidentally cut one of the MG Ver Ka Full Armor Gundam.
It could but if its something thats needs to move it can still be weakened over time. But it depends on the break.
@@THEShoky Cut clean off. It's the peg that plugs into the joint and attached to the shoulder. I don't move my kits a lot. Usually pose and display.
The cement can work but may also need to pin it for strength.
All most all my model kits break their ball joints and I bearly touch them
That ain't good
I plan on getting my first MG gunpla kit? What are some good super glues I can get or other products to use to hold the kit together over the years?
95% of kits won't require any glue or cement.
I usually prefer my kits unpainted so what I do is to shave off bits of plastics from runners and melt them down by adding Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Leave it overnight and you can apply it to parts the next day. Be careful though and don't over apply because it will melt the plastic.
Sprue goo. I use it now too.
Well I just started building my first model kit, it's a D-50C Loto Twin Set E.F.S.F. Special Operations (Spec Ops) Mobile Suit (1/144 scale). But I found only 2 pieces are broken so I'm trying to see what's good for fixing ABS plastic and etc.
ABS, either an ABS specific cement or super glue.
I broke a peg on one of my gunplas and the peg is particularly small. Just wanted to ask if I should use plastic cement or superglue to fix it and how long should I leave plastic cement to dry properly?
What is the peg used for?
@@THEShoky it was mainly used for rotating a part
If it broke off you won't be able to really glue it back on and still use that part. It'll never hold. Best to drill a hole where it was and make a new peg with a metal rod and glue that in place.
@@THEShoky Alright thanks for the advice
Of course make sure it's the right size
My kid broke the articulation of a Sh figuarts Vegeta, which oke you would use? I tried revell Contacta Professional and not working.
Not sure what you're referring to. What part broke?
Also trying just repair a part that is meant to move will likely never hold.
What is the best method to fix a tiny part like the articulated fingers from the rx-78 origin master grade, the little socket that holds the joint of the pinky finger got a stress mark on it and is a bit bent, is it a good method to glue it to the finger next to it? Thanks.
I would add glue to the socket itself. And if you're never going to move it again sure glue it to the next finger too.
@@THEShoky thanks for the reply, who ever designed those 3.0 hands need to get fired
Yup
what is the best glue for my gundam or bandai model kit??
Depends on the plastic. Most Gundams are styrene so cement works fine, but there's a ton that have ABS in them and it won't work unless it's a specific cement. Same goes for other Bandai kits. Many use ABS.
A good rule of thumb would be: if it doesn't need to move and you're not gonna see it: superglue. If it may need to move or you need cleaner results: cement.
I have a question I am new on building model scale cars what would be the best glue to use super glue or ultra thin cement glue
For most model cars you'd use cement. You don't need the ultra thin per se, but some type of cement. I used to use the tubes of testors cement as a kid. I definitely used way too much though lol.
So i'm curious, will thin cement fix cracks in model kit? A port for a joint on one of my kits cracked, and i want to how to fix it.
Possibly.
i feel like putty would be a better option
What's the best glue for action figures?
super glue
only use cement to bond plastic together in one piece
Hey! I had a cracked ball joint socket on a figure, made of clear red plastic. Would the ultra thin cement work on that?
Not gernally on translucent plastic
@@THEShoky okay, thank you. Do you know any methods that do?
Gonna be honest, when it comes to translucent I'm at a bit of a loss, but my instincts say use super glue or possibly a clear resin to repair it. I have a figure with a pinned translucent part that broke after a fall. I managed to disassemble the joint, and did what I could to glue the broken translucent piece together but I will never trust it and it will likely just deteriorate over time and completely fail. If it's easier and cost effective I suggest replacement over repair for translucent breaks. Especially if it's a broken joint. If you don't need it to move and can't see, then super glue it place and call it a day.
@@THEShoky Thanks for your help. Luckily the majority of the crack isn’t on the joint itself.
Sorry to keep bugging you about this, but would you mind if I sent an image of the cracked item in question?
Can you cement two different plastic types? The softer plastic some Ibo kits have with a harder plastic.
In my experience yes, but only if they're similar plastics. Styrene will bond to other styrenes, softer or not as long as the cement works on both. Cant do abs to styrene for instance woth certain cements. Google had this answer:
It is possible to solvent-cement different plastic types to each other as long as the solvent must be compatible with both plastics. Usually, a mixture of fast-evaporating solvent is combined with a high-boiling solvent, often with resin addition (up to 25% by weight).
@@THEShoky Good to know thanks! Ill check the two cements I have see if they have compatibility, i just wish i kept the runner now so i would be sure if it was ABS or not for the harder plastic.
What glue does not turn white when set on plastics? (Blooming)
I don't know anything specific, but maybe look for "dries clear" on the packaging.
Have you ever tried testors glue? I used it for my model kit starscream and yet I cant seem to fix my masterpiece op
I used to use testers back in the day. And yes, the plastics would be different between the model and MP.
I use baking soda on CA glue. Insta rock.
i am Using a Super Glue for Bootleg, Fake and Pirated Gunpla The Gundam Model Kit Only
If you have plastic sculpture with few little holes ..gaps...from air bubbles mold ...can you fill them with super glue....or something ?
You could. But putty would probably be better.
@@THEShoky ok .... do you maybe know ...can i paint over super glue ...lets say ...super glue + baking soda .....or only super glue ?
You can. Just of course apply primer.
RG RX78-2 broken V-fin.. any tips pls??
If its clean break and it's made of PS cement will make short work of it. I've done it on HGs before
Can any super glue brand can tighten joints too?
It should.
How'd you make that Barbatos custom?
I have a review for it if you want to know more.
My gundam barbatos lupus sword mace was broken from the handle can i use super glue on it?
And will super glue hold it?
Yes
Same experience is super glue effective?
will the plastic cement work on hdpe (polyethylene)?
No.
would the cement pules super glue work on small broken parts?
Cement if its the right plastic yes. Just don't overdo it. Don't want to melt the part.
Am trying to bound two small Gundam pieces together permanently
Which parts?
@@THEShoky sorry for the late reply
@@THEShoky sd gundam cross silhouette freedom at wing beam rifle hinge hole if that make sense
that can fix broken inner frame of rg ?
Possibly, but if it's the softer plastic it may not.
How can I get rid of liquid cement because I used to much and my whole model is covered in it
Well if it doesn't melt the whole thing just quickly wipe it off.
ShokyReviews this is my first model and I’m new, I messed it up I put to much glue and and let it dry and I just noticed so what can I use because I tried to use nail polish remover but it didn’t work the glue is testors non-toxic liquid cement and I thought since your a pro I could get some advice
Can. You use both safety?
Sure. Not like mix them but I've used them in conjunction just recently where I had abs and styrene that wouldn't bond totally with cement so I used some superglue over when it was dry.
My Marvel Legends Wonder Man's bicep swivel broke off and I used super glue on it but it broke again I just got plastic cement so if I put plastic cement on the bicep will it work ?
That's a tough one, that's more of a job for a pin.
@@THEShoky so it won't work is what you are saying ?
No. It's the wrong kind of plastic for cement and I high torque spot. You need a mechanical connection. You could glue the hell out of it and maybe never use that arm.
So it won't melt the two together at all and what type of plastic is dried super glue and how does it interact with the cement itself ?
And also what happens if you mix plastic cement and super glue together to fix a broken action figure limb ?
I'll stick with superglue
but super glue is stronger than pva and hot glue right?
Yes.
Hey is the plastic of runners could be lquified by a super glue ?
It shouldn't. If it is then I don't know what kind of glue that is. Super glue doesn't chemically bond like cement.
Oooh
That's sad my cross bone A 33 part broke :(
@@THEShoky Tamiya cement then but how do I remove the seam line from the broken part of it?
What type of part is it?
Just Bought a DYNACTION Evangelion for 200+$ and the Left leg is Stripped. Meaning it's loose as Hell. Don't know what to use, Super glue scares me.
can i put super glue on loose pegs?
Yes. You can also use clear nail polish. Just apply it thin let it dry. If it ends up too thick sand it down.
@@THEShoky ahhhh got it! thank you so much!
Yah I some of the plastic glue I got ruined two of my figures
I tried using plastic cement for the first time and some spilled over the seem and melted/distorted the pieces..just terrible
That's what it does. It melts.
@@THEShoky terrible how it ruins the finish
Does Mr cement SP work on polycaps?
After doing quick research on SP no would be the answer. I don't know of a cement that will work on poly caps due to their poly ethylene nature. If there is something for that I specifically don't know. SP seems to be the same type of cement as the S but dries super fast.
@@THEShoky i see then could i ask you 1 quick question? Does RG NU have any polycaps in it?
@@agungyoga4520 RGs generally don't have polycaps
@@THEShoky thankyou very much
@@agungyoga4520 what exactly were you trying to do?
baking soda will give super glue instant bonding reaction
Yeah. I talk about that
Well I am a dumbass, I use water to remove Super glue in my hands. Lmao
haha
@@thriplety4281 lmao I peeled my skin then after that I got a small patch of skinless hand hahaha it hurts like hell tho
tbh i just see the seemlines as penalines 🤣🤣
"Super glue" not a strong bond. So, false advertising?
Super glue is much cheaper come on
true but the applicator is usually too big n messy
Ultra extra thin cement literally has 100s of videos not to use
Not to use for what? Cause I've seen 100s on it uses.