Tamiya Plastic Cement: What is it and how to use it.
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
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So this is the stuff I use everyday
Redgrass Games
Wet palette (I have the Studio V2 with the add on accessories)
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Wet Palette Paper (this stuff is incredible)
Hydration paper: www.redgrassgames.com/product...
Glass Palette
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Cutting Mat
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Brushes (size 2 is my favourite)
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Monument Hobbies
Pro Acryl Paints (My Favourite Colours are Burnt Red, Titanium White and Mahogany)
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Pro synthetic brushes (size 1+2)
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Pro Sable Brushes (size 1+2)
Kimera (they have long shipping times, but they are worth the wait) buy the base set first then the expansion, the rest are less important)
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Golden High flow paints (buy a set for £30… it will last years)
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Golden Heavy Body Acrylics
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I also use the following brands, Tamiya Clear, Vallejo Model Colour, Scale 75 Metal and Alchemy and Daler and Rowney Inks elementgames.co.uk/search?q=a...
Pro Arte : Prolene Round Synthetic Watercolour Brush Series 007 Size 2 (seriously beautiful brushes)
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Citadel Contrast Paints (Baal Red, Flesh Tearers, Imperial Fist yellow.. watch my video they are cracking)
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Air Brush
Badger Patriot 105 (Grab the Extreme version if you can) I shop at Barwell Airbrushes, the service is excellent. I don’t get commission its just awesome!)
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Buy these too, thank me later
Quick release valve
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Pressure reduction valve
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Cleaning Kit
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Air brush cleaner
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Compressor Fengda Mini Compressor
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Recording
I use a Panasonic G7 (25mm f1.7 lens) and and iPhone 12
occasionally i use a gimbal too ( The Ho Hem i-Steady X
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Innogear Boom arm (seriously these are incredible)
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SmallRig Brackets and Mounts
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Mic
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Lighting
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Editing
Adobe Creative Suite
Music is from Epidemic Sound, if you sign up I get $15 off my next subscription if 12 people sign up I can get my music free (which sounds cheeky but it would be a huge help)
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Small tip: if you wrap electrical tape around the tips of your pliers, you will significantly reduce the chance you'll damage the model with the pliers' teeth.
thanks I will try that, never heard that before
@@RisingApe uhhh, common sense?
@@RisingApe OR try smooth jaw pliers....
This one was a fun one! hardest part was pronouncing butyl acetate, as can be seen from the bloopers!
I just got into modeling my first one is a Tamiya M1 Super Sherman this video helped a lot :)
Great, thanks for commenting I am really glad you liked it
You were right! It was worth staying for the bloopers 😂!
This made me laugh, cheers for watching
Great video, very informative.
Thanks Patrick
I love to use the regular cement alongside the Extra Thin. Such useful stuff, and the best part is as your supply gets lower, you can pull the brush out further to get the last of it ^_^
Yeh, exactly, I love the stuff, and the brush trick to cool
New subscriber here
That was awesome
Thanks for the content
Hey Jeffrey, thanks for subscribing and taking the time to comment. Glad you enjoyed it, don’t be a stranger
I use both the regular tamiya (white capped bottle) as well as the thin (green), and both have their uses. The regular is good for going over large 'structural' glue ups as it has mild (ever so slightly as there is styrene dissolved in it) gap filling properties and doesn't evaporate quite as quickly. You can go around and get the parts together without worrying too much about sections drying off before connecting the parts together.
The thin is great for tiny parts and just connecting well fitting parts together and then running the brush along the seam. The capillary action of the glue will get it everywere it needs to be and often, just touching the tip of the brush will send the solvent along a seam. I use it as a primer of sorts for sprue goo as well.
Tamiya thin bottles that are getting low and cloudy are great for sprue goo. Just drop and few cut up bits of sprue in the bottle, give the solvent a day or so to do its thing and presto! Its great as gap filler or reinforcing a hidden joint. It will sand as well as the rest of the mini but if it went on thick it will take a few days to fully cure and does shrink as it does.
If the pot is getting low, you can extend the tip too
@RisingApe yup learned that a little while ago, its a little weird as there is some suction at play and taking it all the way out then back in seems to leave the end loose.... maybe its just me, though. Still the best easily available glue on the market!
Do you have a pic or something showing what tamiya thin would do when you run the brush along the seam? I'd imagine you might have to do a bit of sanding but I'm just looking to get the normal tamiya cement either just to get rid of stress marks or visible irregular bits
@epistarter1136 i don't have a pic handy, but tamya thin won't leave much of a physical tide mark. I don't think it shows thru primer unless it's been applied really thinly thru an airbrush.
@@nicolastousignant9160 ahh ok thanks, want to try it on gunpla since there's a couple seams that are noticeable in my collection
Thank for the tutorial. Need to restore my 20 year old toys. ;)
You’re welcome, glad it helped
Thanks for sharing. I have a 3D printed Nylon12 part, shaft part of footrest (1/24 scale wheelchair) that broke off during shipping. It was recommended to me to use CA glue but would this be a better option or does it not work on my particular plastic? Thanks
/Rosemary
Yes super glue (CA) is what you want here, if you want to speed it up use thinned down or neat baking soda and just add it to the glue. It sets instantly
What kind of sanding sticks do you use and what is the grit level? Are they available on Amazon?
Hey, I have added a link to the sticks I bought in the video description (they are an affiliate link which gives me a tiny kick back which is always appreciated, if you want to grab else where they are made by Albion Alloys), they cost about a fiver from amazon, although I bought mine from a local hobby shop, the grit goes from 100- 400 and gives you something good enough for anything (except metal, I use files for that)
@@RisingApe Awesome! Thank you.
What cement should i use when putting up lego pieces . I want to them to bond permanently since im customizing a keychain
I would use plastic cement like the one I mention in the video but any brand will do, I tested this on some lego before posting this, to avoid the seams you will need to sand and polish though. hope it helps and thanks for watching
Thank you! Would you recommend using this to fuse small parts like wings to a body? (Perfect cell dbz mini figure) They keep falling and I don’t want to use super glue.
From what I know those figures are PVC, plastic cement will work on polystyrene plastics only, you could use solvent adhesive (pick it up from a plumbers merchant) or super glue. Pop me a picture of the model and I will check what it’s made of for you if that helps!
If there are no pegs to stick the miniature to it's base, what do you use to stick it? Do you use still the Plastic Cement or the Super Glue?
If its anything other than plastic I would use superglue, if you still struggle use baking powder as an accelerant :)
@@RisingApe Wooo! What's the process on that? You put the baking soda powder on the plastic cement?
@@chemicalgravity2103 exactly that, apply as you usually would then dust baking powder over the glue, it sets instantly, it does leave texture though so not good for anything you want a smooth surface on.
Hey there, I would like to ask if Tamiya Cement will work on vinyl figures, specifically figures from Titan Merchandise. Ive searched all over and I cant tell what kind of adhesive will work with vinyl toys other than super glue as it always leaves blooming haze marks all over. And also if i can use Tamiya Paint for vinyl figures? Thanks
Hey, I know you can use plastic cement on abs plastic like Lego, but not sure about vinyl. I would super glue, sand and repaint. Tamiya acrylics are absolutely fine for any surface, I would apply a primer first though.
I build military ships... 1/350 scale is my go to.. .I've been using Tamiya cement since I got back into it a few years ago... My question for you is I have been gluing some of the pieces together over the paint.. It seems to work.. I have never waited to let the cement set, thinking it was like the testors cement I used to use... Is this a problem? I always worry about the cement drying and not holding.
I have done this too, never had an issue, I assume this is because the IPA in the glue dissolves the paint too. Once it’s cured you are golden
There are a LOT of "internet modelers" breaking this decades old tried and true rule -- paint interferes with the styrene to styrene bond. I suppose if you paint first, then cement, it can work but don't expect a strong model that can be handled. Just put it on the shelf and leave it alone. More than a few CZcamsrs cement painted parts together with obvious unsightly results; when the cement dries it leaves a shiny residue everywhere it is applied and ruins the effect and the realism. FYI, FWIW
Nice!!! What's the difference between Tamiya ABS cement and this one or the green top? I'm trying to find best for the cross rc 1/12 mammoth 😮
The green top is extra thin so runs into all the gaps a bit better but takes longer to apply.
I'm a novice and I'm using the white top (standard?) Tamiya cement. My question is this; do you have to constantly shake the bottle of cement before each use? Shaking the bottle certainly makes the cement thicker (albeit briefly) but does it matter? Otherwise the cement is in a loose liquid form.
Your advice would be appreciated.
@@paulsharrock6452 ty
@@paulsharrock6452 I never bother to be honest but it wont hurt
Hey, can i use this type of glue on clear plastic, like windows on a modell car, or will they fog?
I would definitely test it first but my guess would be it will fog the windows, you could use UV resin though that will cure clear.
@@RisingApe ok, thanks!
i buy orange bottle tamiya regular cement, its dry fast for gundam crack part?
I have started using the Mr Hobby Black too which is great for showing where you have glued and not
@@RisingApe i buy mr hobby's cement sp, its really good too. Tamiya cement also ok no bad too.
Hello does this Tamiya Cement can weld broken plastic together by applying a lot when it melts? Can you also use to remove white stress marks with Tamiya Cement?
If the plastic is polystyrene plastic it will melt it and can therefore weld it back together as long as it’s a clean join, same with the stress marks but you will need to melt it then sand it back again
@@RisingApe Transformers toys always have a lot of stress marks that the problem. Should I apply the plastic cement a lot on a stress marks area?
@@starscream8163 I would test it on a patch, it will require a lot of work to get it back to the same finish (gloss) as the sanding will matte the surface. My inclination would be not to bother, unless they are very very special toys
@@RisingApe I do not need get a gloss surface because I am about to repaint it to fix the colors and stress marks is only seen on a hinge area.
@@starscream8163 ahh ok, I would still test on a small out of the way area first but yeh should work fine
t8000 glue can also be used as its cheaper
Tread carefully with contact adhesives like this, they can work but they are different chemically so do a test patch first, personally I find the applicator in the Tamiya brilliant to use and really precise for model making and the plastic weld easier to clean up afterwards than contact adhesive which is rubbery. thanks for the comment and watching the video though
Hello, recently my son broke his favourite toy leg articulation.
A Vegeta of the figuarts collection, material is pvc/abs, what do you recommend for me?
If you don’t mind about the articulation then simple PA / superglue is what you need. To keep the articulation though you will need a mixture of pinning and PA glue.
@@RisingApe PA?
@@manurodrigo9646poly Acrylate or superglue
@@RisingApe ok, thank you and Will try
Is it okay to use cement on painted parts?
It doesn’t really work, it needs to be in contact with the plastic to melt the parts together. If you want to paint in sub assembly just leave the parts that will be glued exposed
Did you use head gear using plastic cement? There are bad side effects and im scared to use them.
The honest answer is not all the time, if I am gluing one or two models, I have a large room to do it in so I do not worry. if I am doing a lot then yes I wear a mask. some people do become sensitive over time and I plan to do this for a long time yet.
@@RisingApe thanks. Im scared of death tho. But what are the head gear is recommended?
If you are worried purchase a respirator from Amazon/hardware stores, any with a removable filter should do the trick
@@RisingApe oh ok. So smelling the plastic cement in the air after its been opened isnt that bad?
@@toyoshark2925 Unless you have a specific allergy or sensitivity then no, but if you are worried wear a mask.
Is it fine if you inhale the vapour in tolerable amounts?
afraid not, end of the day its up to you though
@@RisingApe dang I guess I gotta get a mask.
@@RisingApe I have inhaled like a days worth of modelling but once I'm done I put it right back can that cause damage to lungs ECT.
Most folks I know do not wear any PPE but ideally with anything based on volatile chemicals, you should wear a mask in a well ventilated space,
@@Tdransomsdooz
@@RisingApe okay ty.
So essentially the same thing as revell but with a brush instead of a needle.
Yeh exactly, Brent from Goobertown does a great video on the chemistry if you are interested, personally I prefer the brush applicator but the extra thin has a needle applicator and the revell is a hollow tube. The tube always clogs on me but it’s nice a cheap and does the same job.
@@RisingApe I have always used the revell, the needle does clog sometimes, tho if you run a lighter under it it usually clears it somehow.
Tho a lot of kits I have been building lately need superglued as they are cast in some plastic the cement just makes greasy
Yup, I find the clogging too annoying, but it does the job, that's likely resin so plastic glue won't work (the "glue" melts the polythene and welds it together) so you need superglue for resin.
@@RisingApe The Testors liquid cement with applicator (#3507AT I think) has for years included a stiff wire for clearing out the needle applicator.
Main issue for me is that the cement glue has odor toxic glues that if inhaling can cause everlasting damage to our lungs and is neurotoxic. No one speaks about that.
No one speaks about the type of eye or mask protection to wear when using it or gloves
Aye, agree this is an issue with all glues that can be used to glue models. And for sure most people are too free about not wearing masks/ gloves.
Don’t worry so much, life has full of risk and disappointments, its like sports. Chess is safer than basketball. Cheers
@@ash6807 hey, sure H+S has become a bit of a nightmare these days and it is annoying but he is correct by all means comment but please keep it polite and respectful.