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Oliver's World
Registrace 12. 01. 2008
How to Properly Glue a Plastic Kit
In this video I'm going to show you the proper way to glue a plastic kit without accidentally gluing your fingers together.
zhlédnutí: 24 596
Video
Weird Japanese Soda Taste Test (summer 2017 haul)
zhlédnutí 308Před 7 lety
My band's CZcams: czcams.com/channels/HPNww8jH9s86BvN_2IG5wg.html HLJ had an amazing sale this summer and I had to get a few things! If you haven't checked HobbyLink Japan yet I highly recommend that you do. They have amazing stuff for great prices!
MY HOLY GRAIL!!!
zhlédnutí 12KPřed 7 lety
I can't believe it's finally here! I was lucky enough to find and win that kit on Yahoo Japan after looking for it for months. It is the biggest, most impressive, most bad ass and overall best kit I own. Period. Don't expect a WIP anytime soon. I'm taking my entire life to build that kit because I don't want to rush things and it's gonna take a LONG time to finish it. That kit is my ultimate go...
Christmas 2016 Haul! FSS and Evangelion Kits.
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 7 lety
Christmas wasn't too bad! GK Model recasters: www.shop2000.com.tw/GK-M My Neptune WIP: gundameclipse.net/topic/8046016/1/
How to Reshape Resin Parts! (Garage Kits)
zhlédnutí 841Před 7 lety
Here's another tutorial! Feel free to ask me anything if you still have questions. Music: Five card shuffle - Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0
My First Resin Kit!! (Review, WIP, tutorial)
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 7 lety
Hi everyone! In this video I'm going to talk about the kit itself, the quality of the recast from E2046 and my first experience with resin. E2046 did an okay job for recasting that kit and it's not perfect, but the fact that they still have such an old kit in stock is amazing. With a little effort you can make it look awesome. Link to more pictures: imgur.com/a/yxCil Music: Funkorama - Kevin Ma...
GUNPLA and Model kits: Basic Masking Tutorial!
zhlédnutí 22KPřed 7 lety
Re-upload of my previous video with pictures of the final results. What I'm showing you is a basic masking technique. More videos to come! Funkorama - Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
Custom RE 1/100 Nightingale (Part deux) COMPLETED!!
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 8 lety
It's finally done! The Mid-Nightingale is here in all its glory. Hope you enjoy the video and as always don't be afraid to ask questions! Two Finger Johnny - Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
GUNPLA and Model kits: How to mix paint for airbrush!
zhlédnutí 26KPřed 8 lety
Quick little tutorial to show you guys a technique that saved me SO much time. If you're using an airbrush and you're painting a lot of parts the same color, that little trick will help you a lot! I also explain what Mr. Retarder does to help you get a better finish. Ask me questions and I'll answer you asap!
KANTAI COLLECTION: Shimakaze model kit (unboxing)
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 8 lety
Something different than Gunpla? Why not!? Here's my unboxing/mini review of this pretty cool kit. I did this video because there wasn't many information about this kit around the internet O_O
GUNPLA and Model kits: How to install metal thrusters!
zhlédnutí 30KPřed 8 lety
It's me again! This time we take a look at detail metal parts from a third party company and I show how to use them on your kits! If you have any questions, just ask!
Custom RE 1/100 Nightingale (Part1)
zhlédnutí 638Před 8 lety
Hey everyone! This is a quick video to show you what I'm currently doing, a custom Nightingale for a competition! Tell me if you want more and as always you can ask me any question.
MG Sazabi Ver. Ka Unboxing (and more!)
zhlédnutí 542Před 8 lety
My next project: The MSN-04 Sazabi Ver. Ka!! It's going to be a lot of fun I'm sure!
Zoids HMM Dibison: Complete Build
zhlédnutí 20KPřed 8 lety
Here's my video of the building process of the HMM Dibison from Kotobukiya. I have to say that it was an amazing kit, it is almost as good as my favorite kit so far, the perfect grade Strike Gundam. It is a very solid kit and I highly recommend it. 9/10 Link to even more pictures: imgur.com/a/NYpsi Music: Clash Defiant Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribut...
GUNPLA and model kits: How to wash runners!
zhlédnutí 16KPřed 8 lety
It's a simple step that many forget! Here's my short tutorial on how you can clean your runners. Doing this will help stickers and decals stick better and will also help the paint and primer to adhere more.
GUNPLA and model kits: How to clean an airbrush
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 8 lety
GUNPLA and model kits: How to clean an airbrush
GUNPLA and model kits: Spray cans and airbrush tutorial!
zhlédnutí 12KPřed 8 lety
GUNPLA and model kits: Spray cans and airbrush tutorial!
When it rains during winter (Skating in my backyard and driveway!)
zhlédnutí 138Před 8 lety
When it rains during winter (Skating in my backyard and driveway!)
GUNPLA and model kits: All about paints!
zhlédnutí 55KPřed 8 lety
GUNPLA and model kits: All about paints!
Bonbons et snacks japonais ! (Japan Crate)
zhlédnutí 209Před 8 lety
Bonbons et snacks japonais ! (Japan Crate)
Competitive Pokémon: What you MUST know when getting started
zhlédnutí 49Před 9 lety
Competitive Pokémon: What you MUST know when getting started
Shiny Zubat after 15 Zubat encounters !!!
zhlédnutí 67Před 10 lety
Shiny Zubat after 15 Zubat encounters !!!
Not even dawn dish soap or glad ultra clean soap?
Are you still working on it?
I am! Of course I have other projects so I don't work on the kit full time, but I'm still working on it.
@@jelaienfinueI man. Lucky you. I only have the 1/100 Jagd 2992.
Still funny years later
The leveler is where it's at
So this won't work with the Bandai gundam kits? I'm not sure the difference with the plastics
Keep coming back to this cover! So so good and that tone!!! Amazing 🤩
This was extremely informative and helpful. Though perhaps you could stop verbally assaulting your paints, I was very anxious one of them gonna bust spilling paint and vital fluid everywhere.
Did exact as your instruction with the deluxe. Overnight part popped apart. Now I'm less than impressed with it.
Thanks for this video. I recently transformed my G1 Vortex and managed to break the head out wish the shoulders, so I wanted to see it I was doing the transformation correctly on a new Blast Off I purchased a few days ago. Now he's arrived I can build Bruticus, 40 odd years late but better late than never.
Glad to know my video helped you.
If one of the large poles is all snaky and warped how would you go about fixing it? Im really curious cause this kit is the number 1 thing I want right now
Huge. Yep, just huge.
Is that a fucking crotch bulge on the hip piece 😭 Even in licensed merch Shimakaze is still futa
Niceeeee!
I need this kit to complete my collection.
Hello, I have one question. what is the difference between mr cement deluxe and mr cement s? does the diss melt and become the same color as the plastic? thanks good video
Both cements are totally transparent, so they don't change the color of the plastic as it melts and cures. The ''S'' type is thinner, has a small brush in the cap, has the consistency of water and will easily run into small cracks. Very good for smaller parts. The ''Deluxe'' type is thicker, has a bigger brush in the cap and is used for bigger parts generally speaking. Both are very strong when completely cured and do the same thing. They just require a different approach.
I prefer Airbrush because they don't cause paint bubbles and drips.
You're absolutely right.
@@jelaienfinue Airbrush doesn't bleed the paint through the masking tape as well.
Should I use the airbrush for lacquer paint or hand painting tamiya enamel for the face details?
For small little details go for hand painting with a regular brush instead. Masking the eyes and the vents will be a pain in the butt. Much easier with enamels and a regular brush.
How to basic haha
This is an older video but I really have to say this because this has some misinformation. DO NOT USE LAQUER OR ENAMEL PAINT FROM AN ARIBRUSH WITHOUT PROPER VENTOLATION AND BREATHING MASK!!!!!! enamels migth not smell as bad but they are bad for your body and you will get sick from using them for extended perioids I have experienced this first hand. I sat in my room painting with laquers with a fan on for half a day and after that I puked several times and had a bad headache for two days. I would also use a mask if you are painting with acryllics because you produce a lot of atomized paint dust that will collect in your lungs. If you paint a lot you can get health problems that way too. Then the normal painting tips. Acryllic will be touch dry in just a minute or two as long as you did not apply a terrebly thick coat and will be totally cured overnigth again if you applied a reasonable amount. Also tamya paintline is not 100% water based and migth turn into a goop if you try thinning it with normal tap water so I recomend alcohol, laquer thinner or just water with a small drop of soap in it. And finally as long as the paint is cured you can apply any type of paint over any other type of paint. Reason why you still migth want to avoid this is because you will lose some of the durability of laquer or enamel if you have acryllic under them. But applying the more durable paints over acryllic will increase the durability of acryllic. AND ALLWAYS YOU SOME KIND OF A MASK WHILE AIRBRUSHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome shelf dude
One thing you might not know is that all the paint you showed in the video are acrylic, just different type of acrylic. Not all acrylic is water based and weak. Vinyl based acrylics are the weakest acrylic paint and water based is also quite weak. Mr color witch you showed in this video is actually also an acrylic just laqcuer based. Tamiya is alcohol based acrylic and model master are enamel based acrylics. Acrylic is just the binder of the paint and its made of plastic.
I see you are using the mr retarder, I have never tried it as I use the Tamiya Laquer thinner retarder type witch already have a retarder in it. I think its the best thinner better than mr leveling thinner as it dries much faster. For Tamiya and Mr aqueous a mix with Mr aqueous hobby color thinner or x20a with some little bit of Tamiya retarder for acrylic I get a beutiful finish and it works with the Mr aqueous paints too.
I just got a bottle of Mr. Leveling thinner and I will try it soon. I'm used to the regular type and using a bit of retarder sometimes. Mr. Leveling thinner is very popular so I can't wait to see what the fuss is about.
😍🍾🍾1/35 dragon from fives stars
I remember visiting a top end model shop in 2004 and seeing an entire team of people working on this project, they'd already build the torso and legs, it was a huge thing ! GK are just a huge amount of work though, I hope it goes well, and please share the finished build!
Thanks for the comment. It is indeed a HUGE project and it takes a long, long time when you're working on it all by yourself. I knew from the moment I got it that it would take years to build (while taking breaks in between). I don't know when I'll finish it, but when I do I'll post the results for sure!
When it comes to brush painting clear colors how important is thinning it or can I just brush right out of the bottle without any issues?
Can we have an update on this kit?
If you mean a video, probably not. I don't have much time for videos anymore. That being said, I'm still working on the kit on and off and it's slowly getting there. I'm not in a hurry and the kit is a HUGE project so I'm taking my time, but I'm still working on it.
cool video, easy to understand. my problem now is that there are so many types of cement, I guess I will just try all and stick to one of them.
Thank you very much! The best tip I can give you is buy a thin and regular type from one brand only and learn how to use them. Either go Tamiya, Mr. Hobby or Testors. Each are slightly different and don't take the exact same time to cure. Thin and regular is usually the way to go.
Excuse me, since I lost my manual, may I have a copy of yours? Thx a lot
Give me your email and I could send you pictures.
I hope you come back one day man. This video is a testament to the greatest resin model evee made. Would love to see any progress you've made.
Thank you for your comment. I still work on the kit once in a while, but it's a slow progress so far (it's quite huge!). I'm not sure if I'm going to make videos again, but who knows? I'm not 100% sure I will never come back either. If you want to see updates on the process just message me. And you're right, that kit is indeed the greatest resin kit of all time ;)
Great video and replies in the comments. Thanks bro!
Thanks for the kind comment!
How do i keep the tape from pulling off the primer?
@@jelaienfinue it was a masking take but not for modeling. Could also be the cheap primer i used. Next time i try masking im going to stick and peel the tape a few times. That should help. I ended up just putting a mat finish over the primer and then painting over the chips. I'm working on some Mad Max style cars so some chipping and shoddy paint repair makes sense.
Thank you I think I’ll cover this gem 💎
Thanks! It's a fun song to cover.
Sad But True
Won't it get more oils when you use your hands to build it eventually?
The idea with this method was to remove the mold release from the parts first, the re-wash the parts if needed. Nowadays I just clean the parts just before painting.
Sounds like he saying hair brushing
thanks. im trying to build my airbrush setup and have no idea with the kind of paints and this video help me alot..
Glad to help. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
As a lazy person I just super glue XD
Having one of this kit is like having an art piece. Truly amazing! I would love to build one 🤩
Hi..i want to ask abour mr colour..its okay if not using thinner..or water...just paint like that..
Did you ever build this?
Good work
Thanks!
I’ve had such bad luck with model cements crapping out on me. After I finished a model some parts they would fall off. I started using super glue. I recently bought Mr. Cement but it doesn’t seem to be holding, granted I’ve so far only used it once.
Using cement requires a bit of practice. I've had issues with parts not bonding together properly and ruining my paint job during final assembly because they would break off. The key is to be reasonably generous when applying it, squeeze both parts so that the melted plastic "mixes up" correctly and then WAIT. I'm a bit impatient when it comes to curing times and most of the time when I break something, it's because the cement was not cured. I think that's a really important point, you really have to let it sit for a while once all the other steps have been done properly.
@@jelaienfinue cool!! Thanks! The cement I was using years ago where the parts would fall off was the gel cement in metal tubes. It’s not great at all. I eventually moved to a liquid based cement and even superglue. However there is always paranoia with me about parts not connecting or staying together
@@johnmazzoni487 Knowing how much to use is the tricky part. Also, I've had issues with all kinds of glue not sticking to parts even though they were perfectly clean. It takes maybe two or three times before it finally works. I don't know why it does that sometimes, but it happens. If you really want to make sure everything is nice and solid, use a little more than what's necessary and be patient. Don't forget that sometimes parts are so small and the surface where they meet is so small that there's nothing you can about it except being VERY careful.
@@jelaienfinue I’m using mr cement at the moment and it seems to strip the paint easily. If there is paint on the parts I’m joining would paint if there is some on the surfaces effect the joining?
@@johnmazzoni487 From my experience not really, but I do add a little more when there's paint just to make sure. It's probably not necessary to do that, but better safe than sorry. That being said, it would be better to remove the paint before using cement. Plastic to plastic is always better, but we all get a little lazy sometimes and it's okay to just go straight on painted parts.
I'm way late and it was probably already said, but with lacquer through an airbrush ALWAYS wear some sort of mask protection in addition to having good ventilation. Protect those lungs fellow hobbyists
I don't paint to much, but I do use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color. Would washing the runners help that flow better?
No, washing the parts would be unnecessary if all you do is panel lining.
@@jelaienfinue Thanks.
My first paints for painting minis was Testers and Model Master paints. I since moved away from them since I needed paint thinner to clean my brushes every time I painted. But at least you dont need to prime when using them.
Is it better to do this for stickers and water stickers? Or it is unnecessary?
Nice!!! What pedal or effects did u use??
So which cement do u recommend for Gundam joint fixing? I broke some part that i wanna glue together and i don't know what variant to use
You can use both cements I show in my video or the Tamiya brand, they will all work fine. Be generous when applying it, hold the parts together for a while and let it cure overnight. If you don't have cement then two part epoxy is amazing. It's incredibly tough. Just don't use super glue, it's not very good for that type of repair.
@@jelaienfinue do i need to use two of them or just 1? And is it strong enough for joint fixing? Since they always moving it would be easy for them to break again unless the cement are strong enough. Sorry for asking so many question
@@agungyoga4520 You only have to use one type of cement. If you apply enough on both sides and let it cure properly the joint should be as strong as the plastic. Of course, it can't be stronger than that regardless of what kind of glue you use. If you're really worried about it breaking just run a metal pin through it and then glue everything together. That's the absolute best you can do. If you can't do that, just be generous with the cement, let it cure completely (overnight) and be careful afterwards.
Can the red part inside the thruster/vernier be painted ? And with what paints ?