I really appreciate how your videos are not excessively long. With all of the great content on CZcams, it’s impossible to get through it all when everyone’s video is 10 to 20 minutes long
YES! I've seen people using only tamiya, yet I ended up buying the same solvent that you have! I couldnt purchase tamiya cement from my location. I'm super happy see this and am trying it on my Zeong right now! Thank you so much man!
there are many different ways to approach this hobby that would result in same results. So if something is unavailable in your area, it would be good to try out different products. So good luck and hope your project goes well :3
Not bad but others have a better solution. Create a molding material mixture by cutting up a piece of the runner into tiny pieces and then mixing with an ample amount of Tamiya cement. You're left with wet plaster material, which you can then apply directly to the seam lines. Then trim and sand as usual.
Im a newbie sir in gunpla...im planning also to paint my kit and also planning to remove seam lines..what is the proper order to do?Paint first or fix seamline first?
@@i.r.o.4456 Awesome. Also I know you mentioned using a file and a bunch of sanding paper with different grits. Would I be able to have that same clean and polished effect with just 400, 600 and 1000 grit sanding sticks?
if it’s up to 1000 grit, you will still visibly see the scratching from sanding. I would advice sanding up to 2000 and top coating to get similar effect
So when you remove seam lines, you can’t separate the parts ever again. This causes a problem with megami device because they have joints that wear out quickly. Is there a way to rebuild the joints without separating the parts? Or is there a way to separate the parts after seam line treatment? Megami device have encapsulated knees and elbows. The joints are held together by the upper and lower leg and arm parts. Is there a solution to this? Or am I destined to have a floppy model in a decade?
So in this case you will need to cut the parts in certain way the joints are detachable such as ball jointing or creating removable pegs. Therefore some putty or plastic sheet sculpting might be involved. The process is more involved but this is the other alternative I can think of. Sorry I couldn’t help much. But check what other people did and they may offer better wisdom. I had similar situation such as yours where I needed parts to be separated after seem line removal. So I intentional cut parts and glued custom ball joints etc
No problem at all and I’m happy to help You can imagine plastic cements as plastic welders, since it melts plastic to connect the pieces. Therefore unlike super glue which becomes brittle over time, plastic cement will have long lasting effect. So near permanently
400 is the minimum I start with because anything less would create too much scratches on Gundam plastics. 1500 is the most I would go for to get a nice sanded surface before starting the polishing stage
both depending on the model. Some parts cannot be popped on, so you would need to cut the peg holes in a way to allow the part to be popped on later. If this is impossible, then assemble the rest of the leg, but clean up the seam line at each step
ABS help? hey, i tried using this technique, but apparently my kit is using ABS parts and the cement isn't melting the parts. do I need to use some different plastic cement for ABS parts than PS parts?
True, I’m that plastic cement won’t help with ABS or PS parts. What you can do is use super glue and activator to fill in the gap, or use putty as well
I know this is really late, but in case you or others haven't figured it out you can get a cement that actually specifically works on ABS (most basic hobby cements don't too well). Something like plastruct bondene or Tamiya's ABS type will do it for you.
can you still remove or disassemble the parts after applying tamiya cement/cleaning the seamline? i heard that you can't remove them after applying it, is that true?
True, and you cannot remove or disassemble the parts after applying the cement to the seam line. When you're using plastic cement (from any brand), you're melting the plastic to weld the parts together. So unless you're using a saw or forcing the part apart, you cannot disassemble the parts afterwards.
How long do u wait before pressing the pieces together after applying the cement? I applied the cement n then closed it almost immediately after applying it along the seams but I don’t get that melted plastic squeezing through. I also still have left over seamlines that the cement didn’t get
Usually you want to apply the cement in excessive amount because then when you squeeze the parts, the excess would come out. Sometimes though when the parts are not aligned perfectly due to manufacturing error from the factory, then putty or filler needs to be used. Hope that answers your question!
So my question is for MG usually they have a inner frame and I wanted to know how I would get it on the inner frame if I remove the seem line I still need to be able to paint the part
Method is different, but this is my method. When I assemble the inner frame, I remove the seam line one at a time, letting the cement cure each time. During the painting process if the frame is limb, I would bend the limb, paint it, and when the paint dries I would unbend it and paint the inner frame. Hopefully I was able to answer your question
You can. However, if you are not interested in painting, I posted another video of how to remove seam lines for a more colorful piece. If you're not interested to look at the video, then - You cut some plastic runner with the same colored piece into bits, and put them inside a small glass container - Pour in thin plastic cement into the jar until it completely submerges the plastic bits - Wait for few hours to let the cement melt the plastic, and create a paste - Use toothpick or cheap disposable brush and apply it to the area where the seam will be - Assemble the parts, and squeeze the parts tightly to let the excess paste gush out like in this video's demonstration - Wait for few hours to let the paste completely cure - Use various sanding materials/ file from 400 to 8000 grit to sand and polish the surface Hopefully this will help out!
It will work on any color. But if you’re referring to removing seam on color plastic without the white line, then no. I’ve also made a tutorial for that, but take a look at others work and see what works for you! Good luck!
Tried this method today with my kit and it has pretty difficult seams. It seems to work though... tomorrow I'll sand. This is a kit I use to try stuff into only anyways. The thing is I have the Tamiya Cement SP and the AMMO extra thin. Tried both, and... I don't know lol Which one could/should work better?
I haven't tried AMMO so unfortunately I I can't give any advice on that. Not quite sure about SP but are you referring to Mr. Hobby brand? If so, then I recommend Mr. Hobby Cement SP since it is designed to remove seam lines. Overall, any thin cement that can release excess glue is excellent for removing seams. Let me know how it goes!
@@i.r.o.4456 Yes, it is from Mr Hobby, sorry. I have so many things I get alzheim. It is a bit thicker than the regular one, and a lot of times I see people using the Tamiya extra thin, which I don't have- only the AMMO I mentioned. I am going to sand down the parts I did yesterday and see what happens (there's the line of plastic risen, let's see if it leaves too much of a mark or not...). When it is a solid seamline like that it makes it easier, but holy shit the seamlines I have to work have details and also collide with parts in which I don't want the glue to run through because it will melt its shape. Why do I like this? WHY???? Thank you by the way.
Lol good luck. And also, if the seem collide with other details, then you can scribe lines or sand carefully. Hopefully your project goes well! Also, this method is just for removing seams. If you want to remove seams for colored plastic that leaves no trace, the I also have that video uploaded
@@i.r.o.4456 For that I cut pieces of the runner and let them melt with the cement, then I do the same and I apply a "line" of colored cement. But sure I'll go through your other tutorial. And yes I use my scribber but sometimes some pieces- for example in this 00 HG- are so hard to work I'm afraid to do it in kits I have spent a lot of dedication. Because I ain't painting each and every one, only the ones I really dig. Well... Gunpla.
I really appreciate how your videos are not excessively long. With all of the great content on CZcams, it’s impossible to get through it all when everyone’s video is 10 to 20 minutes long
Thank you! I like to keep them short since I know most people don’t have the time to stay and wait that long
Just got my first kit and your videos are exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!!!
Thank you for your time. And hope your project goes exceptionally great!
YES! I've seen people using only tamiya, yet I ended up buying the same solvent that you have! I couldnt purchase tamiya cement from my location. I'm super happy see this and am trying it on my Zeong right now! Thank you so much man!
there are many different ways to approach this hobby that would result in same results. So if something is unavailable in your area, it would be good to try out different products. So good luck and hope your project goes well :3
@@i.r.o.4456 The Zeong is 👌 perfectly 80%😁 awesome build!
Thanks for the tip I messed up my Gundam's head now I know how to do it properly
Thanks so much 👍
Glad it helped! Good luck to the rest of your project
Great job explaining this process!
Thank you!
wait it melts the plastic too? I thought it works like a glue, sorta, never knew it actually welds them together like that. Thats cool
Indeed. So alternatively people use it to melt mold lines on intricate details that are too difficult to sand or scrape off, as well as making putty
Not bad but others have a better solution. Create a molding material mixture by cutting up a piece of the runner into tiny pieces and then mixing with an ample amount of Tamiya cement. You're left with wet plaster material, which you can then apply directly to the seam lines. Then trim and sand as usual.
Yep, and the other video I do have exactly that for colored plastic.
Im a newbie sir in gunpla...im planning also to paint my kit and also planning to remove seam lines..what is the proper order to do?Paint first or fix seamline first?
I would recommend fixing seam line first! And hope your project would go stellar!
Does the Tamiya extra thin cement work with this method? Or do I have to specifically use cement that’s just labeled “thin”?
No worries. Any plastic cement will work perfectly fine
Just wondering if I'd be able to use Citadel plastic cement for this, since it's the only cement I have on hand at the minute.
yes you can! In fact any other plastic cement brand will work perfectly fine
@@i.r.o.4456 Awesome. Also I know you mentioned using a file and a bunch of sanding paper with different grits. Would I be able to have that same clean and polished effect with just 400, 600 and 1000 grit sanding sticks?
if it’s up to 1000 grit, you will still visibly see the scratching from sanding. I would advice sanding up to 2000 and top coating to get similar effect
@@i.r.o.4456 Ah okay. Thank you so much for the help. Love the quick and easy tutorials. They're really helping me get back into it
@captainbrexit6730 glad I can help! I’ll be here if you have anymore help
So when you remove seam lines, you can’t separate the parts ever again. This causes a problem with megami device because they have joints that wear out quickly. Is there a way to rebuild the joints without separating the parts? Or is there a way to separate the parts after seam line treatment? Megami device have encapsulated knees and elbows. The joints are held together by the upper and lower leg and arm parts. Is there a solution to this? Or am I destined to have a floppy model in a decade?
So in this case you will need to cut the parts in certain way the joints are detachable such as ball jointing or creating removable pegs. Therefore some putty or plastic sheet sculpting might be involved.
The process is more involved but this is the other alternative I can think of. Sorry I couldn’t help much. But check what other people did and they may offer better wisdom.
I had similar situation such as yours where I needed parts to be separated after seem line removal. So I intentional cut parts and glued custom ball joints etc
Damn, I feel stupid now. Been filing away at my arms and this is so much easier.
Glad this information helped!
When using the cement stuff does it glued it permanently? Sorry new builder here just started to try to improve my skills
No problem at all and I’m happy to help
You can imagine plastic cements as plastic welders, since it melts plastic to connect the pieces. Therefore unlike super glue which becomes brittle over time, plastic cement will have long lasting effect. So near permanently
@@i.r.o.4456 thanks man just bought it but not sure how to use it luckily found your videos
Quick question, is the thin s version of the mr cement required or can you just use any general mr cement?
Honestly any cement and even acetone would work as long as the solution melts the plastic
Why do you go from 400 grit to 1500
400 is the minimum I start with because anything less would create too much scratches on Gundam plastics. 1500 is the most I would go for to get a nice sanded surface before starting the polishing stage
Can extra thin cement do this?
Yes it should. Any thin plastic cement will do.
Do you have to connect it to the rest of the leg before you weld it or can it be popped on
both depending on the model. Some parts cannot be popped on, so you would need to cut the peg holes in a way to allow the part to be popped on later. If this is impossible, then assemble the rest of the leg, but clean up the seam line at each step
ABS help?
hey, i tried using this technique, but apparently my kit is using ABS parts and the cement isn't melting the parts.
do I need to use some different plastic cement for ABS parts than PS parts?
True, I’m that plastic cement won’t help with ABS or PS parts. What you can do is use super glue and activator to fill in the gap, or use putty as well
I know this is really late, but in case you or others haven't figured it out you can get a cement that actually specifically works on ABS (most basic hobby cements don't too well). Something like plastruct bondene or Tamiya's ABS type will do it for you.
@@loli-knightxardej2252 near as I can tell such ABS solvents are not commonly sold (at least for hobby markets). I'm guessing because its extra toxic
can you still remove or disassemble the parts after applying tamiya cement/cleaning the seamline? i heard that you can't remove them after applying it, is that true?
True, and you cannot remove or disassemble the parts after applying the cement to the seam line.
When you're using plastic cement (from any brand), you're melting the plastic to weld the parts together. So unless you're using a saw or forcing the part apart, you cannot disassemble the parts afterwards.
How long do u wait before pressing the pieces together after applying the cement?
I applied the cement n then closed it almost immediately after applying it along the seams but I don’t get that melted plastic squeezing through. I also still have left over seamlines that the cement didn’t get
Usually you want to apply the cement in excessive amount because then when you squeeze the parts, the excess would come out.
Sometimes though when the parts are not aligned perfectly due to manufacturing error from the factory, then putty or filler needs to be used.
Hope that answers your question!
So my question is for MG usually they have a inner frame and I wanted to know how I would get it on the inner frame if I remove the seem line I still need to be able to paint the part
Method is different, but this is my method.
When I assemble the inner frame, I remove the seam line one at a time, letting the cement cure each time.
During the painting process if the frame is limb, I would bend the limb, paint it, and when the paint dries I would unbend it and paint the inner frame.
Hopefully I was able to answer your question
Is this technique works if i use thick cement instead of thin?
Yes it can. However, you will get a thicker paste as a result, but still works nevertheless.
Thank you 👍
Glad that this helped!
how would you reassemble the gunpla??
You would reassemble them normally, or insert a part or joint that needs to be attached at a later stages before you remove the seam line
What if I have a more colorful piece, do I have to paint it after sanding it?
You can. However, if you are not interested in painting, I posted another video of how to remove seam lines for a more colorful piece. If you're not interested to look at the video, then
- You cut some plastic runner with the same colored piece into bits, and put them inside a small glass container
- Pour in thin plastic cement into the jar until it completely submerges the plastic bits
- Wait for few hours to let the cement melt the plastic, and create a paste
- Use toothpick or cheap disposable brush and apply it to the area where the seam will be
- Assemble the parts, and squeeze the parts tightly to let the excess paste gush out like in this video's demonstration
- Wait for few hours to let the paste completely cure
- Use various sanding materials/ file from 400 to 8000 grit to sand and polish the surface
Hopefully this will help out!
@@i.r.o.4456 Thank you so much for your time!!!
Can you list the grits of sanding you use, and where you got your tamiya bottles?
400, 600, 800, 1500, 4000, and 8000
I got my tamiya bottles from my local stores, so I don’t have a website to share.
Was the thin cement the regular or the quickset?
I used the regular version, but quickset it also fine.
Will Mr Hobby Deluxe cement work as well ?
In theory, since they are plastic cement, yes. However I never used those product, so do try it out and let me know how it gors
@@i.r.o.4456 that’s the cement I have in hand right now, I’ll try it.
will this process also work with Tamiya extra thin cement?
Yes. Any sort of plastic cement product with water like consistency/thinness will work.
Will it work on any color? Or just white
It will work on any color. But if you’re referring to removing seam on color plastic without the white line, then no. I’ve also made a tutorial for that, but take a look at others work and see what works for you!
Good luck!
is the tamiya flat file from the tamiya basic file set?
It's been a while since I purchased mine, but I believe it is. It's the one with three files, round, flat and in between
I.R.O. thanks for the reply oh by the way is it safe if i filed the nubmark then i sand it from 400-600-800-1000-1500-2000
Can you still take it apart after applying the cement?
You can, but the cement will melt the plastic where the seam is
@@i.r.o.4456 when its cured can i still take it apart?
No. You can, but you will most likely damage the plastic
@@i.r.o.4456 thanks for the advice
Tried this method today with my kit and it has pretty difficult seams. It seems to work though... tomorrow I'll sand. This is a kit I use to try stuff into only anyways. The thing is I have the Tamiya Cement SP and the AMMO extra thin. Tried both, and... I don't know lol Which one could/should work better?
I haven't tried AMMO so unfortunately I I can't give any advice on that. Not quite sure about SP but are you referring to Mr. Hobby brand? If so, then I recommend Mr. Hobby Cement SP since it is designed to remove seam lines.
Overall, any thin cement that can release excess glue is excellent for removing seams. Let me know how it goes!
@@i.r.o.4456 Yes, it is from Mr Hobby, sorry. I have so many things I get alzheim. It is a bit thicker than the regular one, and a lot of times I see people using the Tamiya extra thin, which I don't have- only the AMMO I mentioned. I am going to sand down the parts I did yesterday and see what happens (there's the line of plastic risen, let's see if it leaves too much of a mark or not...). When it is a solid seamline like that it makes it easier, but holy shit the seamlines I have to work have details and also collide with parts in which I don't want the glue to run through because it will melt its shape. Why do I like this? WHY???? Thank you by the way.
Lol good luck. And also, if the seem collide with other details, then you can scribe lines or sand carefully. Hopefully your project goes well!
Also, this method is just for removing seams. If you want to remove seams for colored plastic that leaves no trace, the I also have that video uploaded
@@i.r.o.4456 For that I cut pieces of the runner and let them melt with the cement, then I do the same and I apply a "line" of colored cement. But sure I'll go through your other tutorial. And yes I use my scribber but sometimes some pieces- for example in this 00 HG- are so hard to work I'm afraid to do it in kits I have spent a lot of dedication. Because I ain't painting each and every one, only the ones I really dig. Well... Gunpla.
That is how I do as well so you’re good!
Also I don’t paint each gunpla as well lol.