Here's an old modeler's suggestion. After you have glued the two parts together, to help keep them flush while they set, wrap them with rubber bands. This will eliminate the need to hold the piece while it sets up. Anyone who has ever build a model with rounded parts, such as an aircraft fuselage, will have a bag of rubber bands in their tool kits.
@@JSicking No, not really. You are not leaving the rubber bands on long enough for that to be a concern, (usually only a couple of hours at most), also. the glue is designed to soften plastic, not rubber.
i been watching so many videos on how to remove seam lines, your’s was so straight forward and easy. i finally got it!! turns out the piece gets covered, but i got it 👏 thank u! 👏👏👏
I've stumbled upon your beginner videos and they are very good! Granted, there are shorter ones on YT, but yours actually show much of the process and you take time to give tips and comparisons. Hat's off to you. I'm gonna try this with the HG Gundam Vidar *huge sideskirts (as they aren't fully joined with just snapping them together) with some Mr. Cement Deluxe (as tamiya is crazy expensive in my country).
FYI, there's the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (Quick Setting) that you could try. This is for the Gundam Marker panel line types... GM01 (black) is best for blue or dark grey plastic parts. GM02 (gray) is good for white and light gray parts. GM03 (brown) is good for red & yellow parts; the 'warmer' colors.
What are your thoughts about the other method? Alternatively, people can just snap the parts together, then apply the extra thin cement directly on those seamlines. Some sort of capillary action will come to work. You can visually witness the cement getting absorbed into those crevices. I mean, your method seems like a more surefire way and gives more confidence because we physically applied the cement directly on the surfaces we want to melt. But I'd like to believe that tamiya's extra thin cement is extra thin for a reason: for that capillary action. Otherwise we can just use their standard cement. But great video! especially love how you emphasized multiple times to slow down and take your time. Gunpla is always about the building! People who love posing their toys more than building them should really just consider getting action figures instead.
Other videos I’ve seen on seam line removal on colored plastics they melt the runner plastic and brush it in the seams and that doesn’t leave white lines. Usually it seems like brushing the cement right into the seams will leave white lines after sanding. How were you able to fix the seams and not leave white lines?
Once you remove the seam line with the cement since the pieces "melt" together are you able to take the pieces apart still with out compromising the piece?
No, once you have glued them together that is pretty much it. So make sure you are ready to glue them and that everything is in place how you want it before you do so.
Hi man, I used to use Mr Hobby Cement SP and it was a bit messy to be honest. Lately I tried the AMMO extra thin, since I supposed it would be somehow like the Tamiya one you use and I've seen several good builders also use. The thing is that I tried with a Leo I was building, and I removed the seamlines in the legs and the arms, but in each leg you could see two miscoloration points and a bit of a lighter colour in the middle part of one. I don't know if it's cause of the pigment the regular Leo uses or if it's something I'll have to deal with... because I have six Origin kits to build, including this P-Gouf, and I'm not planning on painting them. For the Leo I'm trying my first custom, and so far, so good (as long as the piece looks nice the color doesn't matter...). I'll try some more on spare parts I have but I wondered if you knew what the problem was; is it the cement, is it the model color or is it my technique?
It's more than likely the color of the plastic. Even on the gouf in the video you can still see a bit of faint color difference. But when it's on the shelf and with top coat you don't even see it. But I would try on some spare parts and different color plastic to see how they do and for practice. I have a bin of spare parts that I try things out on first.
From what I saw from other tutorial, they cut the runner in pieces, and then melt it in a cement which the end result kinda make like coloured cement, like you choose the blue part of the runner to cover off the blue leg.
Tamiya melts the plastic so it melds together. You will want to find a cement that does the same. I will ask some of my guys on Twitter that are over seas and get back to you.
@@whiskeredgundam7765 @Whiskered Gundam thank you so much. I'm super excited to try out what I learned from your tutorials on my first gundam. Is it correct to first remove seam lines, then of panel lining and then do weathering?
A good friend of mine in Ireland said any liquid solvent cemet should work fine. But if you can get a bottle of tamiya it will last you quite a while. I have been using the same bottle for the past year and a half. And I'm glad you enjoyed the videos. And yes you want to do your nub and seam line removal first that way you don't mess up any of your detail work with sanding. You should hit me up on Twitter if you have any other questions. There should be a link in the video description. Plus I would like to see how your first build turns out.
@@smartinezai I haven't tried it but it should work the same. It will take a fair amount longer to cure, so give it atleast over night till you get used to it.
It's not mandatory if you don't care that much about seam lines or mold lines. The only mandatory thing with gunpla is snapping the kits, the rest depends on "polished" you wanna make your model. I personally have a couple of kits and I'm only now considering doing seam line removal.
![How to Prep Your Gunpla: Removing Nub Marks and Other Surface Imperfections [Tutorial]](/img/n.gif)
Here's an old modeler's suggestion. After you have glued the two parts together, to help keep them flush while they set, wrap them with rubber bands. This will eliminate the need to hold the piece while it sets up. Anyone who has ever build a model with rounded parts, such as an aircraft fuselage, will have a bag of rubber bands in their tool kits.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to give it a try.
Any concern about the rubber band material touching/mixing with the cement?
@@JSicking No, not really. You are not leaving the rubber bands on long enough for that to be a concern, (usually only a couple of hours at most), also. the glue is designed to soften plastic, not rubber.
You just dropped some sage advice. I'll definitely be using this tip.
i been watching so many videos on how to remove seam lines, your’s was so straight forward and easy. i finally got it!! turns out the piece gets covered, but i got it 👏 thank u! 👏👏👏
The Bob Ross of Gunpla.
I've stumbled upon your beginner videos and they are very good!
Granted, there are shorter ones on YT, but yours actually show much of the process and you take time to give tips and comparisons. Hat's off to you.
I'm gonna try this with the HG Gundam Vidar *huge sideskirts (as they aren't fully joined with just snapping them together) with some Mr. Cement Deluxe (as tamiya is crazy expensive in my country).
FYI, there's the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (Quick Setting) that you could try.
This is for the Gundam Marker panel line types...
GM01 (black) is best for blue or dark grey plastic parts.
GM02 (gray) is good for white and light gray parts.
GM03 (brown) is good for red & yellow parts; the 'warmer' colors.
I'll check out the quick set cement and I already have the next video done and I got the markers covered.
@xxnike0629xx cite your sources. After all, you quit building in mid-2012 ...
@xxnike0629xx so it would not be a surprise ...
@xxnike0629xx if you never tried panel lining too LUL
crispy clear. i like the way how you showed it to all the beginners! Love all the way from Malaysia!
An awesome kit to practice all of these techniques is an HG Z’gok.
What are your thoughts about the other method?
Alternatively, people can just snap the parts together, then apply the extra thin cement directly on those seamlines.
Some sort of capillary action will come to work. You can visually witness the cement getting absorbed into those crevices.
I mean, your method seems like a more surefire way and gives more confidence because we physically applied the cement directly on the surfaces we want to melt. But I'd like to believe that tamiya's extra thin cement is extra thin for a reason: for that capillary action. Otherwise we can just use their standard cement.
But great video! especially love how you emphasized multiple times to slow down and take your time.
Gunpla is always about the building! People who love posing their toys more than building them should really just consider getting action figures instead.
Thank you for making these, they have been so helpful!
will definitely give it a try! thanks!
Other videos I’ve seen on seam line removal on colored plastics they melt the runner plastic and brush it in the seams and that doesn’t leave white lines. Usually it seems like brushing the cement right into the seams will leave white lines after sanding. How were you able to fix the seams and not leave white lines?
Once you remove the seam line with the cement since the pieces "melt" together are you able to take the pieces apart still with out compromising the piece?
No, once you have glued them together that is pretty much it. So make sure you are ready to glue them and that everything is in place how you want it before you do so.
should i paint before or after seam line removal?
You will always want to do seam line removal before you pant or you will just sand off the paint.
Could you use normal tamiya cement or does it have to be extra thin?
Will Mr.Hobby Mr.Cement Deluxe work as well?
Hi man, I used to use Mr Hobby Cement SP and it was a bit messy to be honest. Lately I tried the AMMO extra thin, since I supposed it would be somehow like the Tamiya one you use and I've seen several good builders also use. The thing is that I tried with a Leo I was building, and I removed the seamlines in the legs and the arms, but in each leg you could see two miscoloration points and a bit of a lighter colour in the middle part of one. I don't know if it's cause of the pigment the regular Leo uses or if it's something I'll have to deal with... because I have six Origin kits to build, including this P-Gouf, and I'm not planning on painting them. For the Leo I'm trying my first custom, and so far, so good (as long as the piece looks nice the color doesn't matter...). I'll try some more on spare parts I have but I wondered if you knew what the problem was; is it the cement, is it the model color or is it my technique?
It's more than likely the color of the plastic. Even on the gouf in the video you can still see a bit of faint color difference. But when it's on the shelf and with top coat you don't even see it. But I would try on some spare parts and different color plastic to see how they do and for practice. I have a bin of spare parts that I try things out on first.
@@whiskeredgundam7765 Thanks! For real.
No problem, always happy to help.
From what I saw from other tutorial, they cut the runner in pieces, and then melt it in a cement which the end result kinda make like coloured cement, like you choose the blue part of the runner to cover off the blue leg.
And yeah, the procedure is just like in the video.
Does the brand matter a lot? Getting tamiya in germany is a pain in the butt
Tamiya melts the plastic so it melds together. You will want to find a cement that does the same. I will ask some of my guys on Twitter that are over seas and get back to you.
@@whiskeredgundam7765 @Whiskered Gundam thank you so much. I'm super excited to try out what I learned from your tutorials on my first gundam. Is it correct to first remove seam lines, then of panel lining and then do weathering?
A good friend of mine in Ireland said any liquid solvent cemet should work fine. But if you can get a bottle of tamiya it will last you quite a while. I have been using the same bottle for the past year and a half. And I'm glad you enjoyed the videos. And yes you want to do your nub and seam line removal first that way you don't mess up any of your detail work with sanding. You should hit me up on Twitter if you have any other questions. There should be a link in the video description. Plus I would like to see how your first build turns out.
@@whiskeredgundam7765 I got some tamiya cement but it's not the extra thin one. Does it still work?
@@smartinezai I haven't tried it but it should work the same. It will take a fair amount longer to cure, so give it atleast over night till you get used to it.
This step is mandatory? I hate glue...
It's not mandatory if you don't care that much about seam lines or mold lines.
The only mandatory thing with gunpla is snapping the kits, the rest depends on "polished" you wanna make your model.
I personally have a couple of kits and I'm only now considering doing seam line removal.
thank you