Joking aside, I did like this quick video explaining the differences. Makes sense to me now! I will pick up some of the SP Black stuff this Thursday :)
I have heard in more than a few places that 'Deluxe' isn't actually *meant* to be used as an adhesive (despite it saying as much on the bottle), but more as a (small) gap filler. My own experience seems to back this up, as (not knowing that) I've used it on a lot of custom additions to Gunpla kits, and even months later the added parts (also polystyrene, same as the kits. not the ABS plastic they use for some parts) just fall right off with barely any force. S, while having an almost non-existant working time, actually holds... in most cases. SPB would be neat to use, as I don't do many straight builds. But nobody around here carries it.
I couldn't get on with the Mr Hobby SP - it seemed to evaporate before you could marry up components for fixing. I flooded it onto some test pieces and it was OK but I have just had 2 components come off a build where there was virtually no adhesion at all (and I used loads of adhesive when fixing). It worked well as a cleaner when I got some cellulose spray paint on my fingers though!
I'm like that as well, I use a real hair 5/0 or 3/0 brush to apply my fast liquid cements. My fellow modelers say those little brushes work just fine for them. No right or wrong, whatever works for you.
One thing you can use SP For is to flow into gaps. It won't flow through and sit on the inside eating the plastic, it'll dry quickly. For Bandai plamo, since you're usually working with a part that has a pin, you can assemble the part and then use capillary action to cement it.
In my experience, cements with a faster evaporation time don't bond as well as a slower one that has time to soften the plastic more...an advantage for large assemblies but not so much on smaller delicate parts. Any viewers care to share their experiences?
Mr Hobby S is NOT equivalent to Tamiya Extra Thin. Mr Hobby S evaporates almost instantly upon application. It has close to zero working time. It's really good for applying along a joint. It will run through the entire joint. But it is virtually worthless in applying glue before assembly. Whereas Tamiya extra thin gives you a good working time after application.
Thank you for sharing your experience with the product. For me (and I freely admit I'm likely doing it wrong) Tamiya Extra Thin doesn't have enough working time for me. Use a bigger brush?
@@hobcen Capillary action should pull the cement through the tiny gap. Quick drying means it won't mar the part like a slow cement. You definitely can't use it as a brush-on-then-assemble.
The main difference is the taste. It's all about pairing them with the right dish, just like with wine :P
Joking aside, I did like this quick video explaining the differences. Makes sense to me now! I will pick up some of the SP Black stuff this Thursday :)
I personally like the black's licorice flavour.
LOL
@@kencreppin2146 lol
Been looking for a comparison video.
Thanks!
Great video thanks. Very informetive. Just bought some SP. Looking forward to trying it.
I have heard in more than a few places that 'Deluxe' isn't actually *meant* to be used as an adhesive (despite it saying as much on the bottle), but more as a (small) gap filler. My own experience seems to back this up, as (not knowing that) I've used it on a lot of custom additions to Gunpla kits, and even months later the added parts (also polystyrene, same as the kits. not the ABS plastic they use for some parts) just fall right off with barely any force. S, while having an almost non-existant working time, actually holds... in most cases.
SPB would be neat to use, as I don't do many straight builds. But nobody around here carries it.
Thank you for sharing your experience with everyone!
super helpful video
I couldn't get on with the Mr Hobby SP - it seemed to evaporate before you could marry up components for fixing. I flooded it onto some test pieces and it was OK but I have just had 2 components come off a build where there was virtually no adhesion at all (and I used loads of adhesive when fixing).
It worked well as a cleaner when I got some cellulose spray paint on my fingers though!
I'm like that as well, I use a real hair 5/0 or 3/0 brush to apply my fast liquid cements. My fellow modelers say those little brushes work just fine for them. No right or wrong, whatever works for you.
One thing you can use SP For is to flow into gaps. It won't flow through and sit on the inside eating the plastic, it'll dry quickly. For Bandai plamo, since you're usually working with a part that has a pin, you can assemble the part and then use capillary action to cement it.
Cool
Thanks for watching! :)
would it be fair to say that sp bonds the strongest as well?
In my experience, cements with a faster evaporation time don't bond as well as a slower one that has time to soften the plastic more...an advantage for large assemblies but not so much on smaller delicate parts. Any viewers care to share their experiences?
Mr Hobby S is NOT equivalent to Tamiya Extra Thin. Mr Hobby S evaporates almost instantly upon application. It has close to zero working time. It's really good for applying along a joint. It will run through the entire joint. But it is virtually worthless in applying glue before assembly. Whereas Tamiya extra thin gives you a good working time after application.
Thank you for sharing your experience with the product. For me (and I freely admit I'm likely doing it wrong) Tamiya Extra Thin doesn't have enough working time for me. Use a bigger brush?
@@hobcen Tamiya works fine for me, except it has a much stronger odor than Mr Hobby S.
@@hobcen Capillary action should pull the cement through the tiny gap. Quick drying means it won't mar the part like a slow cement. You definitely can't use it as a brush-on-then-assemble.